WiFi doesnt reach basement

my inlaws have a rather large house and the modem/router linksys wrt600n is all the way upstairs.

signal is so so on the main floor, but no signal in basement.

my question is what is the BEST not cheapest not most exspensive but BEST way to get the signal down there? and for that matter better all around there property?

 

I would run CAT-5e from the router upstairs to a WAP in the basement. The Linksys WAP610N would work well with the WRT600N. As for improving wireless range everywhere, putting the router in a centralized location (middle of the house) will help spread out the signal.

 

cant get wire to basement otheriwse i wouldnt have this issue needs to be a wireless solution...example how do small offices extend there signal or say a small hotel

 

Use another wireless router as an extender.

 

They run a wire and put in an access point.

You can use something like a lan over powerline solution--they even come wireless now

http://www.netgear.com/Products/PowerlineNetworking.aspx?for=All

 

You people kill me sometimes.

The cheapest way to get your signal there is to setup your Router & Adapter Settings properly - Wireless N's biggest feature is that the further away you are from the Router, the stronger the signal is. It's likely that your Adapter and Router (of which I have, BTW) either isn't matched properly, or the Transmit Power needs to be adjusted on both the Router and the Adapter.

One thing about the 600N and any other N Router - if you do not set up the Wireless Mode and other settings properly on the Router and receiving Adapter, the signal and speed are greatly impacted. I've noticed a single setting change the speed almost 100mbps.

Go through the following steps to check your Router:

1. Open the Admin Panel from your Browser. If you've never done it, that's your biggest problem right there. The address is http://192.168.1.1, or if you're using the Linksys LELA or Network Magic Pro programs, access it using one of those. Note that if you've never accessed your Router's Admin Panel before, the default User/PW is admin for both. This is posted on the Linksys site and is common knowledge. You should ALWAYS change your password immediately. If you've forgotten a password, you'll need to do a hard reset by pushing in the recessed Reset button on the back of the Router. You'll need a pencil, pen or unbent paper clip to push it in.

2. Select the Wireless Panel.
3. It's important that you know whether or not your computers' Wireless Adapters are Wireless N devices, Wireless G, B, etc. as this will determine your Wireless Mode settings.
4. IF your network and all systems all have Wireless N adapters, set your Wireless Mode as indicated below. Your SSID should be set to your own unique ID name so that you can clearly identify it as your Networks. Note that for Wireless N Only, you always set the Channel to 40mhz Wide. Only use 20mhz if you're using an older standard like B/G, and the mode is set to Mixed. However, for the 5ghz band (assuming you're using it) if you're still getting a weak signal, try switching to 20mhz.

ALWAYS click on "Save Settings" at the bottom of the panel before proceeding to another part of the Router's Admin panel - if you do so without saving, you'll lose any changes you made.



5. If you have mixed network adapters (N, G, B, etc.) then you'll want to set your Wireless as indicated below - note the settings, as you'll need to match your adapters to them to get optimum performance.

Note the changes - the 5ghz band stays at N only, since only N and A devices can access the 5ghz band independently. The 2.4ghz mode is set to Mixed, and the radio band is set to 20mhz. The Standard Channel setting I've set to 11 instead of Auto, though you can set it to Auto if you wish. I explain why I've set it to 11 below.



Remember to Save your Settings if you make any changes before proceeding.

Click on the Advanced Wireless link on the right side. This contains the Power Level settings and other settings that will affect your signal and connection. Make sure that Frame Burst is Enabled for both bands (the Default "Disabled" setting is incorrect - it s/b Enabled for better performance. Click on the Help link and you'll see the discrepancy).

If you haven't done it, you also need to ensure that your Firmware is current. Note that for all Linksys Routers, whenever there is a problem with signal or speed that can't be cleared by a Power Reset (unplugging the Router for 45 seconds and plugging it back in) Flashing the Firmware with the most current revision is standard procedure for Linksys Support if you ever speak to them.

You can obtain the current revision by going to this link: http://www.linksysbycisco.com/US/en/support/WRT600N/download

Download it for now - I'll tell you how to flash it below.

6. Click on the Setup Panel, then on the Advanced Routing subpanel link - it's on the right side.
7. Ensure that Network Address Translation (NAT) is Enabled. Save settings if needed.




FLASHING FIRMWARE

1. Click on the Administration link in the Admin Panel - it's on the right hand side.



2. At the very bottom, click on Backup Configurations -save the file to a convenient location on your drive. If you don't save your configuration, you'll have to setup your Router all over again if you've already made any custom changes.

The flashing process updates the Router to the current revision. Although it typically will keep your settings, I leave nothing to chance and always save them prior to any flashing. Flashing also clears out any problems that can't be cleared by a POR or hard reset.

3. After backing up the configuration, click on Firmware Upgrade (top right under Administration)

4. Where it says Select a File to upgrade, browse to the update you downloaded, then start the flashing process (flash means install).

5. After the process is completed, and still under the Administration tab, click on the Management link on the left side.

6. At the bottom, click on Restore Configurations. Go to the file you backed up earlier.

7. Check the following are enabled (check box checked) - UPnP (Plug 'n Play).

8. If you wish to have the ability to change your Router settings from your notebook via wireless connection, enable the following under Management also:

Web Access - Enable both HTTP and Web Utility Access via Wireless.

Remote Access - Remote Management - Enabled, Web Utility Access - HTTP, Remote Upgrade - Disabled (enable if you want remote & wireless Router/firmware upgrade ability),

Allow Remote IP Address - Any IP Address

Remote Management Port -8080.

UPnP - UPnP MUST BE Enabled for for most connections, especially if you're doing any online gaming.

Allow Users to Configure - Enable

Allow Users to Disable Internet Access - Disabled.

Click on "Save Settings" at the bottom of the window, and wait for the Router to complete the save.

WIRELESS ADAPTER SETTINGS

Once you've established your Router settings, you need to then setup your Adapters on each system to match the Router in order to get the best signal and throughput for their respective wireless standards. To access the Adapter settings, open your Device Manager, click on Network Adapters, then right click on the wireless adapter you have installed, and select "Properties". The settings are usually in the Advanced tab for Intel adapters and for Linksys adapters.

For Intel adapters, if you've set your Router to Wireless N only, set the Adapter to 802.11N Enabled. This will overrule any of the other settings. If you've set it to Mixed, then you'll need to set the Adapter to Mixed as well, and then set the individual settings for Channel (11 if you used the setting I have above) and standard (B, G, etc.). Other settings for QoS (Quality of Service s/b set as required. For Power, set to Highest, Roaming set to Aggressive. If you're not sure what to set them to, tell me what adapter you're using and I'll give you the setup to match the Router setup above. It's pretty straightforward though if you look at the settings, and all you need to do is to match them. The reason I use channel 11 is that it's the furthest from the base frequency of 2.4 ghz (11 is 2.462ghz), and that gives you the best chance of avoiding any interference issues with similar electronics in the home that might be interfering with your signal.

If you have an Intel 4965, 5100 or 5300, these basic settings should help:

INTEL ADAPTER SETTINGS

Though this is for a 4965AGN, the Properties panels and settings are similar for the Router settings above to match them.(access through Device Manager, Properties, Advanced tab)

1. 802.11N Channel Width - Auto
2. 802.11N Mode - Enabled (this assumes all your network devices are N or Dual-Band N - if not, you'll need to set it to Disabled and set your Router's Wireles Mode to Mixed. I cover that below.)
3. Ad Hoc Channel 802.11b/g - If N is enabled, this doesn't matter as the B/G bands aren't utilized. Set to 11 if you're going to use Mixed.
4. Ad Hoc Power Management - Disabled (this will keep your system from turning off your adapter to save power, or for anything else)
5. Ad Hoc QoS - If you're like me and use Quality of Service settings on your Router, set this to WMM Enabled. Do the same on your Router's QoS panel. If you're not using QoS (or anyone else) you should be.
6. Fat Channel Intolerant - Enabled.
7. Mixed Mode - CTS-to-Self Enabled
8. Roaming Aggressiveness - Highest
9. Throughput Enhancement - Enabled
10. Transmit Power - Highest
11. Wireless Mode - 802.11b/g (Note: again, this will only work if you've got 802.11N disabled in step 2. If you're using N enabled, this doesn't matter, nor does step 3.

Switch to the Adapter's Power Management Tab next.

1. Uncheck "Allow the Computer to turn this Device off". If you don't, your system can turn it off at any time.


SIGNAL LOSS ON BROADBAND NETWORKS

If you have more than one cable box, it can significantly lower your incoming broadband signal to the point that if you have more than one computer connected, the signal may not be strong enough to be broadcast to its needed range. Adding devices to your cable system drops voltage, and voltage in this case equals signal. Voltage drop means signal drop, so the more you have connected, the less overall signal you have on the cable to begin with. I've had that problem since I had broadband installed 10 years ago. The solution is a broadband cable Line Amplifier, which connects at the input point where your cable comes into your residence, prior to any electronic device. Always get one which is AC powered if you think you need one. Your cable company can do a measurement for you if you ask them that will tell you if your signal is low or not. If you have signal issues after the setup above, and you have a lot of devices connected, you might consider having your signal checked. They usually don't charge for it, but ask anyway as not all companies are the same.

They do have Line Amps that aren't AC powered that are cheaper, but you get what you pay for. These devices utilize and boost the voltage that's already there, but if it's that weak to begin with, it can only do so much. Think of the difference between a sound powered phone and a powered one.

ELECTRONIC AND BUILDING INTERFERENCE

The changes above should enable you to get a good strong signal on the 2.4ghz band at the very least. One way you can always determine whether or not your home is causing a problem is to use a cordless phone if you have one. Most run at either 2.4 or 5.8ghz. Move the phone's transmitter base to where the Router is located, then make a call, and go to where you're having signal issues with your computer. If the call gets weak or drops, it's likely you've got interference issues with building material, electronic or even electrical inteference (EMI) if you're in an older home. Older home wiring that hasn't been fully updated to today's codes can cause a lot of EMI and can interfere with any radio transmission.

Of course if it doesn't, that means the problem is in your settings between your Router and Adapter, or the signal on your line isn't strong enough to begin with. A phone transmitter is at least as powerful as a Router, so if it can maintain a call at the same distance your system is at, it's a good indicator you can establish a good network connection.

If it turns out that interference or other issues is preventing a good connection, then considering a wireless bridge at a midpoint of the home, or even going to Ethernet is a consideration. But do the simple things first before wasting time and money you don't need to.

PM or email me if you have any specific questions about adapter or your Router setup. You should also consider using QoS settings for any priority data that you need access to the Router for.

 

To the OP: it takes planning to make wifi work in a multi-floor house. Here's an excellent guide on how to plan out wifi for your particular situation.

How to optimize wi-fi coverage in multi-floor facilities.

Cranking up the power on the router and each wifi card might help a little, but it all depends on the construction of the house. My guess is that, after configuring your router (if it hasn't already been done), you'll still find that you get little to no signal in the basement. In that case, you'll either have to run an AP to the basement, or use a LAN over powerline solution.

 

You didn't notice - I own his particular router, and know its capabilities in newer and older homes. It's one of the better Dual-Band units out there right now, and there aren't many things that can block this Router's broadcast ability if setup properly. The range is unbelievable as well.

What I didn't mention previously is that I also live in a split level home, but also take my notebook out to my detached garage, which is a good 200' from the Router, with the electrical panel and other interference in-between. I have no problems connecting.

This particular Router is actually used by the Infoweek testing team. You can see how it fared in a test last year between other DBN wannabe's.

Dual-Band Router Showdown


The 610 seems to have overcome the problems it had during the test they did though. It's going through a firmware revision Beta test right now which should be ready for release in a few weeks if everything goes good. I recently helped a client who was having multiple network problems with his 610N, which just turned out to be Port settings, but otherwise it seems to work a lot better than what the IW team reported from their test.

As for the 600N, as far as signal and range when it's set properly, it's hard to beat. I live in an older home (early 50's) with hi-tension lines running right over my back deck, so interference is a problem here, which is one reason I chose that particular Router. I also use a Line Amplifier, since I have 3 cable boxes and I know my incoming signal is weak. My walls are over 1" thick with metal lat in the plaster/drywall combination (the house was built during the time when plaster was giving way to drywall, and the house has plaster over metal lat on top of wallboard for each wall). My 5ghz signal always runs a little weaker than the 2.4ghz, but both do well. I use the 5ghz band for gaming and other media streams.

If you're using any Encrypted Security protocol, e.g., WEP or WPA. that alone will cause a signal and speed drop, which is why I don't use either - I use MAC Address Filtering instead.

 

Hopefully the OP will return and let us know what adapters are installed in the various computers. That will help narrow down the problems considerably.

I read in another of your posts where you don't run any encryption protocols, and you rely solely on MAC filtering. Since MAC filtering is ridiculously easy to thwart, why do you advocate not using any encryption? Just for the loss of signal and speed?

 

Like most people, I don't rely just on MAC Filtering or any one thing for security - I have a Network Management program that can detect any intruders, and it uses MAC Filtering in to institute a Network Lockout. Without it I would probably use WPA or another method. Essentially, if anyone tries to get an address, they'll get a password lockout instead.

Most people use something other than just wireless encryption for security as well - either a Firewall, monitoring program, something. The main reason I don't use WEP or WPA is for online gaming and content when I'm uploading / downloading server content for client sites. It's a known problem with gaming server drops, and the drop in speed it causes when enabled.

While it's not for everyone for sure, as long as you've got protections in place to detect / deal with any snoopers, though with anything it's a calculated risk. Even WPA/WEP isn't foolproof, as nothing is.

 

Do you run a server that handles all incoming and outgoing packets, assigns IP addresses, and the like? What software are you running at the server level to secure your network? Does it rely on MAC addresses as its' primary means to identify authenticated users?

I'm glad that you posted more information on how you secure your network. I was afraid that a novice would come along, see that you use MAC filtering and not encryption to secure your network, and decide to follow your lead, thinking they were secure.

 

i would be connecting to N products in the basement, the laptop (which im on now) and an LG Bluray w/netflix player that has N capabilities, nintendo wii would also be connected (G) to the network

 

what about something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/Hawking-HWREN...EYCY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1249267882&sr=8-1

 

anyone have any thoughts on this or tried it?

 

Any more information you can share, Cyber?

To bmwnick - The reviews on Amazon look pretty good. It's worth a shot.

 

Waste of money unless you're willing to at least run through your settings. Network devices and computers are not appliances - you cannot just plug them in and expect them to work without having to set them up properly in order to get the most out of them. Using network devices of differing brands is never a good idea to begin with - if you need one, you can use a WGA600N adapter as a Network Bridge if you wish to throw money at something without even dealing with the setup issue. If your Wii is set at a midpoint between the basement and your system, you can always use the WGA600N as both a Wireless N Gaming Adapter and a bridge, as it's Dual-Band N as well and made to work with the 600N Router. You can kill 2 birds with one stone.

Regardless of what you get or don't get, you are not going to get away from the simple fact that Wireless N devices require proper setup to get the best signal and range out of them, and that they are not as forgiving as B/G devices when it comes to improper settings. Once you've ruled out setting issues, then you can determine if it's an RFI problem, or a low signal incoming into the residence to begin with. Either way, wasting money on a bridge or extender is premature at this point when you haven't tried the easy stuff first.

But if that's what you want to do, then by all means go ahead. Can't help everyone.

 

1. No - we've spent enough time off-topic on that subject, and you're referring to stuff in your last post that doesn't matter here.

2. A Hawking RE is a waste of money for his particular problem.

 

Then send me a PM. I'm interested in your particular configuration.

 

How about the Wi-Fire by hField Technologies?

The Wi-Fire is a high gain USB WiFi booster that is great for get a wireless signal in those "hard to reach" place in your home. My friend travels around in his RV a lot...he uses it on the road...he suggested to me when I couldn't get a signal in my home office on our first floor (the router is on the other side of the house on the second floor).

The Wi-Fire really works great and gives me greater distances and faster speeds than I ever experienced with my internal adapter. The manufacturer even advertises that it can reach up to 1,000 feet!

It worked for me, you should give the Wi-Fire a try!

 

I haven't read all the previous posts so not sure if this was suggested but, if you happen to have a second router or one you can easily obtain for cheap, you may be able to flash it to Tomato or dd-rwt firmware, and at that point it's a snap to setup the second router as a wireless repeater as both have an option to do this I believe. It may prove to be cheaper than devices made specifically for the task . Just seeing if that peaks your interest, if so we can gather more info for you on that.