TP-Link TL-WR1043ND 300mbps N Router-1st Impressions/PICS

After having issue with my Net Gear router,I consulted the forum where I got some good advice.I acted accordingly and bought myself a new router.I did buy the router recommended,but I had already been doing a lot of research for a unit to fit my specific application.I decided to buy a little more router than I needed,hoping I would have room to grow.I am also hoping that this router will last as long,if not longer than my last router.Here is the link to the issues I experienced with my Net Gear router and why I decided to go with the TP-Link TL-WR1043ND.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/net...et-gear-wgt624-router-reboots-frequently.html

Here is where and what I purchased.Sold out so I must have got a hell of a deal.
Newegg.com - TP-LINK TL-WR1043ND 802.11b/g/n Wireless N Gigabit Router up to 300Mbps with USB 2.0 port

OK on with it.

I love fresh unopened gear.I like the packaging of the router.


Nothing like the sent of fresh opened gear.MMMM


Nice,modern,and racy looking.LOL


This should attract the lady geeks,I hope.This was taken with no flash and all the blinds closed.I'm really digging the silver glow of the logo.


Antennas installed and looking like I'm ready to make first contact with the interweb.


Now lets look at the sexy bits.Pure upskirt router pron right here.We have the basic ports.Power,reset,USB,WAN,and four LAN ports.What more could you want?


Half hour later and we have contact.


I had trouble as soon as I started running the quick set up disk.It wouldn't finalize and connect.I kept getting an error stating to check my WAN connections and retry.It fails because the computers network settings doesn't match the router settings.This happened with both my computers.One runs Windows 7 and the other Vista 32 bit basic.After that I referred back to the quick install guide for the web browser quick set up.I should note that I did read the manual first and it walks you through the set up as if you were a child.It has pics and all, so hold onto this.The issue with the quick set up disc was every time I went back to retry the install it was changing the router password.So I was constantly chasing my tail.The web browser version doesn't change the password on every try,so you can change your computers network settings and retry.I know this because I forgot to change my computers network setting to the proper password on the first attempt.My old router was a basic b,g with WEP security encryption,128 bit,IIRC.So all my network settings had to be changed and of course the password had to match,duh.All in all,if I would have been paying attention the set up would have went much more smoothly.I do recommend this router for what it's worth coming from me.I do notice a significant increase in performance with the internet.Hopefully I will revisit this thread with an update on installing an all in one printer on to the router.Not sure if I will go wired or wireless.Probably wired since my printer station is right next to my router.If any one needs help,I can put together a pic tutorial of the web browser set up.I prefer this set up method over the quick set up mini disc.The only complaint I have is the cold start time is slow.This may get better after the router has been online a while.I rarely ever shut down my network,so I don't think it's really gonna be an issue.

 

I sure hope it's gonna serve you well otherwise someone will be in trouble for recommending it
Cold start last longer on routers with more advanced firmware- your last router had 4MB flash this one has 8MB. There are additional processes required for USB storage and son on- my VoIP modem/router needs up to 2 minutes to start and runs some 50 processes.
Check if you have the latest firmware.

 

Ok thanks for the info.I got the zip file downloaded I just can't get the file to extract I gotta get a zip program.

 

I updated the firmware.Be advised that I had to run quick set up again after the update.I used the same password that I set up in the beginning.For some reason,I also had to reset everything in Linux to be able to connect back to the router.This has me scratching my head.Still wasn't a difficult task.Just keep your pc connected to the router by an ethernet cable.

 

If you don't want to type in your settings after each update make a config backup file.
You just load it after an update an all your SSIDs, passwords, port forward etc are already there.

 

I bought a rebatched TP-LINK (the 150Mb/s single antenna version) for 15 bucks and found it to be very stable(even better than my old WRT54G with openwrt). Well not sure how long it may last but for 15 bucks, I simply can't complain based on what I see. The nice thing about it is that it is possible to replace the firmware with openwrt.

Didn't even use the setup disk as it is mini-CD and my notebook DVD is slot load one.

Just use the browser and setup everything via the standard 192.168.1.1 interface.

 

I didn't do it because I am back running Linux.I did on my Window based PC's.


I have run across an odd issue.Since I set up my new router,my cable modem crashes ever so often.It refuses to reconnect,unless I shut down the router until the modem reconnects.Then,the cycle starts all over.Seems to happen about ever hour or so.The modem and router are sitting a few inches apart on a shelf.Should I move them further apart?

 

You sure they dont have the same IP address?

Try disabling NAT on the modem and leave the router to do it.

I doubt moving them apart will do anything but go ahead. Mine sit on top of each other.

 

Not sure how to crack the user name and password.It's the crappy Motorola that Charter installs when people sign up for internet service.They lock the modem so it can only be access by a tech or remotely by their office jockeys.If they did find out,the most they could do is fine me and/or suspend and refuse services to me.

 

Thats quite strict for an ISP . How are you supposed to change the IP of the modem?

Oh if its the older motorola surfboards thats only a modem, it wont have NAT anyway. But if you still want to try access the modem page the default username is admin and password is motorola.

 

SB5101N Looks like it is a Surfboard,but the case has been redesigned since the first time I used one back in 06.I just went back to using Charter a few weeks ago, after having connect issues with Windstream and constant dropped connections.Also,how do I get to the modem's page?Use the mac address?

 

If it's a surfboard they're usually at http://192.168.100.1

 

You should only use a wired connection when setting up or admin your router. As you found out the reboots will knock you off. I've been on some that got corrupted from using a wireless connection for admin. So I advise all of my clients to use wired only.

 

Thanks for coming to my rescue again.

I was hard wired to the router.

 

Hey Ben2go, I'm glad that you posted this thread.
I thought I was the only one that purchased the TP Link router!
I purchesed the router at Newegg: Newegg.com - TP-LINK TL-WR1043ND 802.11b/g/n Wireless N Gigabit Router up to 300Mbps with USB 2.0 port
For the price ($70) this is a good 300Mbps router... It is paired with a RCN modem.
By mousemagician at 2010-12-29[/IMG]
I keep the leds covered with black electric tape (like on the Iogear KVM below the router) to don't have the Christmas tree effect on my bedroom.:laugh:
I found this one a stable router, even thought I still have troubles to set a static IP for my torrents.:confused2:
Does anyone have difficulties to set a static IP with the TP Link?
I suppose that the problem is my RCN modem instead...
The setting page looks well set to me
By mousemagician at 2010-12-29[/IMG]
As soon as I fix the static IP, I post the solution.
Reputation + to you, Ben2go, for this formative thread!:yes:

 

Thanks for the cudos.Sorry,I have no answer for you on the static IP address issue.Please post a resolution when you find one.

I wanna briefly go back to this.I did separate the router and modem by 12 feet.At this distance,the modem stopped crashing every so often.I am almost positive that my router maybe giving off some RF interference.It maybe within FCC spec and the cheap modem may just have a weak spot that allows for interference to get in.Either way,I got the modem to run stable.I have a solid connection to the outside world,so I'm gonna let it go for now.

Thanks for everyone's help on this.I'm try to learn as much as possible so I can pay it forward.

 

I have the same router, purchased it like 6 months ago and I'm pretty pleased with it. It's pretty stable though for the period I have it I had to reboot it a couple of times because of network issues.
The only think it doesn't work for me is the NAS feature. I have two external drives, one powered externally and one powered by the USB, and the router just can't detect them. TP-Link support was useless, they kept insisting it's a drive incompatibility which I know for a fact it's not true.

@Mousemagician Could you give us more details about what are you trying to do? You want to use static IP for you WAN connection?

 

TP-Link I believe in a sense is a packaging company that only take the Athero reference board(and firmware) and just assemble the stuff together. I see at least 3-4 even less known brand(and cheaper) that is identical to it.

So don't expect any real support from them.

 

@ chimpanzee
That's very unfair. Applying the same logic Linksys is just Broadcom packaging company. What's more TP-Link uses also Broadcom chipsets (mainly in ADSL routers/APs).
Not all USB drives work with different routers for whatever reasons- I've seen quite a few people have problems with Netgear WNDR3700 and USB NAS and I can't hear anyone jumping to conclusions about Netgear like you did about TP-Link.

 

It was meant as a neutral comment, I don't see it as fair or unfair. In fact, that to me in a sense is a plus and why I bought a cheaper rebatch of TP-LINK(which so far proved to be very stable, even better than my old WRT54G). I don't mind this mode of operation rather than monkey around the firmware. If I want that, I can always flash it with openwrt/dd-wrt etc.

These wireless router nowadays are becoming commodities due to the shear numbers. That is a good thing in that the more they are out there, the more they are tested and problems gradually feedback to the chip vendors so the next reference design get even better.

However, that also has the consequence that minor rare case issues are unlikely to be fixed as the lifespan of a product is very short and it is impossible for company like TP-Link to constantly updating their firmware of old products. This is even the case for big name vendors like Dell(say in their BIOS updates of PC/Notebooks).

 

Thank you for asking. I really appreciate any help on that!:GEEK:
WAN connection? Yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about!

Every time I try to set STATIC IP by TCP/IPv4 proprieties, I loose any internet connections (wired and wireless). Then, I go to Wireless Network Connection Status to run a diagnose and the system re-set to dynamic...
I'm sure I use "available" IP addresses. DNSs are copied from the DOS ipconfig/all.
Any idea?:confused2:

 

The WAN settings are just to make the router send/receive data from you Internet source, in your case was a modem, right? It's set up as Dynamic, probably automatically because the router detect your have Internet with Dynamic IP. If your internet connection use dynamic IP you cannot force the router to use a static one. Those settings are ok.
If you want to set up static IP for your computers then disable DHCP in the TP-Link router and set up IPs on your machines according to the network you've defined in your TP-Link LAN settings.

 

Sorry, I don't understand what you're trying to do.
I assume you have a cable modem and your router is connected to it.
What you're trying to set router's IP to static so that your WAN (internet) IP would be the same, right?
That said it doesn't necessarily mean "static" it may mean dynamic IP that rarely ever gets changed.

The other part:

makes it look like you're really trying to make your LAN IP static so that your computer would get the same LAN IP every time (presumably to be able to forward ports to the one IP you want)
So which one is it?

EDIT: ATG types faster

 

do not touch the WAN part unless you are in some rare case still running some form of PPPOE which I believe you are not, or you need to manually set the MAC which is also unlikely as you were using the internet fine.

WAN setup is a seldom touched thing, that is controlled by your ISP.

 

Thank you ATG. This was very educative! I'll keep you posted.

Hey, Downloads, thanks as well!

Either of you are EXTREMELY fast!

That's a perfect (and really hilarious) definition of my situation!
Reading either posts, I realize that my IP is "static enough" to maintain the same forwarded port for torrenting.
Downloads, you are right when saying

That's because since then, I never tried anymore to set static IP.
In fact, at that moment, my internet froze so bad that I had to reinstall the more recent firmware (that was already installed).
Don't ask... I just gave up!
I felt so unable that I stopped any other attempt.

NOTE: Thanks Downloads for your "deep" help!

 

If you have a problem with port forwarding it may be the other part of the equation. Your WAN IP may be static enough but the LAN IP your computer gets may be different each time.
So if you forward ports to the LAN IP 192.168.1.101 and next time you switch on your computer this address is already in use by another device you get let's say 192.168.1.102 and port forwarding doesn’t' work anymore.

To get the same LAN IP every time without setting IP to static (which is troublesome which laptops) you should find "Reserved IP Address List" on your router. You type in MAC address and it always gets the LAN IP you want.
Another solution that would work with torrents is using uPnP- it solves the problem most of the time but works only for torrent clients that support it.

 

and from Downloads:

OK guys, thanks a lot for your help.
You gave me a lot to work on!
Most importantly, I'm beginning to understand (hope so).
Rep + to all of you, ATG included!
Sincere thanks!
I'll post my outcomes.

 

Earlier in my thread,I had mentioned that my original router was resetting itself ever so often.Then my new router started doing it,so I moved it across the room away from my modem and surge protector.Well after nearly a month,I am still battling the router issue.The only thing I can come up with is there's something in the house that is giving off massive RF interference.I can't seem to locate it.I recently replaced my TV with a newer larger unit.It's been two days and I haven't had any issues,yet.I know my old TV had a bad relay, that would not let the TV come on unless I kept pushing the "ON" button on the TV or controller.I'm hoping I have eliminated the problem.

 

^^ surprised no one mentioned that the first thing to do is to slap DD-WRT onto this router ... not saying one should (put DD-WRT) -- many folks say that stock firmware is fairly good and has enough features for most folks, even those with some "special" needs.

A question to the gurus here: why does my laptop never report anything above 130Mbps with this router (in fact, would not go above 65Mbps prior my enabling 40MHz channel on the router)?

 

What wifi card do you have?

Make sure router is set to WPA2-AES/40mhz/N-only and find the least congested channel.

 

I think I mentioned that I enabled 40MHz channel .. and I did happen to have it set to WPA2-Personal with AES encryption ... I'm far away from other houses/networks so interference is not a likely issue. The network card in one of the laptops is Intel Centrino Advanced-N 6200 AGN iand Atheros AR 9285 b/g/n in the other one (this one actually stays at 65Mbps)

 

Can you give me more info on DD-WRT please?

I have an internal Atheros card and I have checked for driver updates.

 

I presume you know what DD-WRT is (another firmware, usually better and with more features than stock). For putting DD-WRT on this TP-Link go here: Samiux's Blog: HOWTO : DD-WRT on TP-Link TL-WR1043ND
From what I've read the stock firmware on TL-WR1043ND is considered to be decent.

Are you seeing anything close to 300Mbps speeds?

 

Part of my issue has been our weather.Our internet connection is spotty at best.We rarely get snow.We had 9+ inches last week and it's the most we have had since we got 11 inches in 1988.The equipment Charter uses here is above ground.The cable guy was doing repair in my area, and I had a chat with him.It seems that water and snow can build up inside the splitters that feed our houses,freeze,and bust the housings and fittings.The busted housing can let interference in and screw up the connection.At least that's what he tells me.He showed me the one he was replacing out side my house.It was shattered on one side.It also had ice inside of it.So until we get better weather,I can't be sure if it's my router or interference from another busted splitter outside my house.Since he has replaced that splitter,my connection has been more stable,but I do have to reset my router once or twice a day.

Thanks,I will look into that.No I won't see those speeds.Both of my computers only have 56mbps internal cards.Both are low end Acer Aspires.

 

Settings are correct. How far from the router are the laptops in question.
What speed do they connect when located at some 10 feet from it.
Use inSSIDer to measure signal quality and consistency and post back.

 

I tried bringing both laptops close to the router (2ft away) .. but Mbps did not change (I gave it enough time to update) -- 130Mbps on one and 65Mbps on the other... I also tried orienting laptop's lids (that where the antenna is, right?) into 3 different planes (thinking that polarization of the signal might be at play here), but it did not help either. Made sure there's nothing else (e.g., a 'g' device) connected to the router through all of these exercises. It's almost as if the router has some throttling going on.
I'll try inSSIDer later on.

 

I'm getting 240mbps link but the real speed is 150mbps at most. I have Intel 5300.

I recall I had this problem can't remember how I solved it though...I assume you set up your "Max tx rate" to 300mbps? Try setting it up to 150, see how it goes.

 

Ok, inSSIDer does not seem to show anything illuminating ...
...
Why does it say "65 (N)" in the Max Rate column?

For a moment I thought I'm not getting 40MHz band b/c I'm sitting on channel 1 (and the lower part of the band is cut off), but I moved to channel 4 and nothing happened to the Mbps count. Somewhat interestingly, if I log on to the router, in Status/Wireless/Rate (DD-WRT interface) it shows 260Mb/s

 

Somehow (I have DD-WRT) in the "Transmission Maximum Rate" drop-down the only options are: Auto,1, 2, 5.5, and 11Mbps. I have it on Auto (default)

 

Go to advanced settings tab of your Wi-Fi card (via device manager) and make sure channel width is set to 40MHz there.
BTW how is that possible that you can see only 2 wireless network in NY?

 

Hmm ..
1. On Centrino Advanced-N 6200 AGN the two options are 20MHz and Auto (I chose Auto and nothing changed ... will see if anything changes after reboot)

2. On Atheros AR 9285 b/g/n (this one that stays at 65Mbps) there does not seem to be an option to do anything. The only potentially relevant option is "AdHoc 11n" enable/disable. Perhaps I should install a driver different (more advanced) from the one Windows found during OS install?

 

Atheros doesn't support 40MHz channel anyway so it will be always half the speed of Intel when Intel is running at 40MHz and it does seem to do so.
You do use the most recent Intel drivers, right?
Do you use any wireless devices that work on 2.4GHz band- baby monitor, some proprietary wireless technology a cordless phone?
I'm gonna have some coffee and think about it some more.

 

Thanks for all the help thus far. Gotcha on Atheros card in the laptop (isn't that akin to false advertisement when HP says laptop supports b/g/n, while in reality only 1/2 of 'n' is supported?).

No other wireless devices (except cell phone) .. so interference is not likely. The error count on the router is zero or close to zero over many days.

 

My 2 lappys and router are the only wireless devices in the house,except 2 cell fones.

 

Well, it's still N, since N is just the standard, and not a guarantee of the speed; after all, you can be at the maximum limits of your router range, and end up with a speed that's less than that of B/G right next to the router. It's just that it can't take advantage of the full speed of N. Kind of like how a 150 Mbps N router is still a N router, even if it can't get up to 300 Mbps or 450 Mbps like some of the newer ones (although it's admittedly a little clearer in the description there).

 

I see how it might be convenient for the company to say "it has N" while in fact "it has only a little bit of N" .. should be advertised as such ... it is, perhaps, somewhere in the smallprint ... so, legally, they're covered. It just sucks that they adhere to such tactics

 

can any one educate me in terms of speed...

I wonder how can you get 300mbps if my road tuner extreme turbo can get merely 20mbps download and 2mbps upload. Is 300mbps only offered for business or something??

 

naah ... we're talking between the router and the laptop here, not between laptop and your ISP

 

Yep,between the puter and router.

 

10 months later and all I have had to do to this router is reboot it a couple times.I am please with my purchase.