Need help solving unreliable WiFi problem.

I have online quizzes I have to take for my summer class and have extremely unreliable Wifi and am hoping to improve it. I'm not real savvy in wireless connections but here is what I got so far. From inSSIDer:





Mine is the unencrypted "D-link"(Red Graph Line), I know unencrypted is a bad idea but I took it off temporarily because it was slowing the speed down dramatically. I decided to change to channel 11, but when I went to ipconfig to find to gateway address it would flash real quick and then exit, I eventually timed my print screen and captured it, but despite not having a wired connection hooked up I still got a weird LAN Disconnected
prompt.



I was able to eventually change the channel but is there anything else I can do to help improve my connection reliability?
(Note* - Just to get the obvious out of the way, when I lose Wifi connection then the other person or two who sometimes uses it, they also lose signal so my wireless receiver works. Just wanted to take one variable out of the equation.)

 

I can see your AP is using the Draft N and way out of compliance.
So, I wouldn't be surprised why it was unreliable.
Try turning off wide channel width on your AP. Move to Channel 1.

Currently, you are overlapping 2WIRE088.

Also, you run cmd, first then enter ipconfig.

There is a way to keep the ipconfig prompt up via run command but I can't remember and too lazy to look it up.

 

You need to run ipconfig in an Admin privileged command prompt. Do not run ipconfig directly.

 

He doesn't need to be in elevated mode to run ipconfig.

He was able to run it on run command but it closes caused the command is finished.

 

Whats different about draft N VS others?
I can choose between:
Mixed NG, G and B <---What it currently is on
NG only
B only
G and B
G only
Which one would be the most reliable?


Thanks, cmd worked to keep ipconfig up.
I changed the channel width down to 20mhz (the lowest I can go) but, why switch to channel 1? The two closest people to 11 is someone on 8 and another on 9. Channel 8 user which is closest to my amplitude does overlap just a little. There are 4 people on channel 1 but they are low signals. Would it make a huge difference on Channel 1?

New channel width: http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b164/Supercujo/Wifi4.png

 

Cause you dont want your channel overlapping your neighbor who is almost as strong or overwhelming as yours.

Channel 1, I see is wide open from the last pic you use.

Running at full Draft N on 2.4 have a nasty way of basically performing a type of denial of service to your neighbors and to yourself. Try looking for a mode is like neighbor friendly mode or something similar to that.

It is odd that it is still showing 300 mbit as possible link.

How did you change your channel width?

What AP you are using?

Also, since you are using a draft N model, B/G is the likely be the most reliable mode.

 

Some Extra background information -When I first started the width and mode were automatic, my channel was on 6, I have since changed it to Channel 1, 20mhz width and G/B mix mode.

If I switch over to Channel 1 I have about four to six other connections coming in and out on that channel but they are much lower in amp.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b164/Supercujo/wifi5.png

For the channel width its an option in the manual Wireless setup, there are only two options, "20 mhz" and the one that was giving the wide band in the beginning = "Auto 20/40 Mhz".
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b164/Supercujo/wifi6.png

My router is a D-link Dir-625 and its a direct connection, no amplifiers or anything.

There are no connections showing up in the 5Ghz range on inSSIDer.
My Wifi receiver is an Intel 4965AGN. If I can set my receiver and router to N and there are no other 5Ghz connection wouldn't that work? Or would that be a bad idea since its Draft N?
(edit* I just realized there is no strictly N option on the router so that means its probably 2.4ghz doesn't it)

Wifi Receiver
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b164/Supercujo/Wifi7.png

 

Your channel(s) of choice should be the non-overlapping ones- for Americas it's 1,6,11.
In your case channel 11 seems to be the best option as it's both non-overlapping an unused.
You can test both 20MHz & 40MHz channel width- when signal quality is poor it's better to stock to 20MHz. Also the only reason to use 40MHz channel is to achieve 300mbps theoretical throughput so if you don't need it for LAN transfers it's better to be neighbor-friendly and keep it at 20MHz.
You can use 5.2GHz range as your router doesn't support it.

 

The more I've been following the outages and InSSDier, I have noticed my connection slows or stops when these huge spikes happen from other signals in the area. Like this...


I was thinking of just going with a new router since no one around here is using the 5ghz band. Looked at the ASUS RT-N56U, Netgear WNDR3700 and the Linksys E4200 and am thinking of going with the Asus. We have a small place and all the places we use our computers in the house is within 50 feet of the router and the Asus seems to have the best performance within 60 feet from the reviews I've seen.

 

While ch 1,6,11 are non overlapping but it is only useful if everyone is using it.
But since you got people using in between, you have to adjust your channel curve such that it doesn't overlap on active channel curve that are just as strong as yours. Your curve has to be least overwhelming over the others.

Wow, don't know whats going on there. Meand3cats must of modded his AP with one powerful transmitter.
Or something wrong with your wireless card.

Try updating your wireless card driver.

 

@Falco152
Actually it works only if no one else is using it. It means non-overlapping with other channels not with others on the same channel.

@Supercujo
You should avoid channel 6 (Meand3cats). Move your wireless to 11.

 

Well I tried to update my intel drivers, I downloaded them directly from Intel's website since device manager insisted they were up to date, all it did when I ran the installer was this icon popped up

For about a minute then disappeared. Device Manager still says its running the old driver, hasn't updated and still says it is up to date (which it isn't). But now my wifi icon on my start bar says that I have no connection, its says its connected to "Windows Wireless Service" and when I try to connect to my D-link connection it fails even though I still a connection through it right now.

 

Against what I been taught in my Digital Signal Processing and Computer Networking courses. Oh well. Didn't want to derail. Sorry

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Anyways, Intel says 13.5 is the latest for your model, you can install it manually via Device Manager or the Driver Installer from the zipped version. Those are the marked as the Basic Enterprise for IT Administrators.

I don't really trust the normal exe installers much from Intel.

Can you provide some screenshots how to trying to connect, I'm failing to think at the moment.