Very high CPU temps

Hello guys;
I am the owner of a gt80s 6qe. Its got the 6820hk. HWmonitor shows it to be at 3.6ghz (I havent messed with overclocking or anything). While sitting here typing this core0 is 65c core 1 is 55c core 2 is 64c and core 3 is 55c. When I run aida stress test Temps jump to almost 100c on two cores and stay around 70 on the other 2. It also shows Im thermal throttling. I re thermal pasted with some cooler master thermal paste hoping to lower the temps and it didnt seem to change it. Is there anything I can do to stop from thermal throttling all the time? Should I try liquid metal?

Edit:
If it matters, this PC also has dual 980m and 24 gig ram. Both fans do work. I've updated the fan curve as suggested by the support center on the MSI site and also updated the bios.

 

Edit again: Now with 20% processor usage I have core 0 showing 90C, the rest in the 60's... Lol whats the deal here..

 

time to repaste, nothing else has to be added really.

You probbaly used the coolermaster HTK thermal paste, which is extremely thin and bad. You should purchase GC Gelid, Kryonaut, GC Gelid, or if you feel adventerous, Liquid metal.

 

Damn I've done it twice now.. Is it possible that the cooler master thermal paste just isnt up to standard for this CPU? Should I go the liquid metal route?

 

Please don't listen to Danishblunt. He doesn't know what he's talking about.

Answer: assuming your CPU uses the 'basic' MSI' shaped heatplate (ever since GT72s to the GT75 Titan, it's the same mold thus the same problem. The MSI 16L13 has a different plate).

Typical Convex heatsinks, less pressure on the CPU core on the side 'closest' to the VRM's.
The ONLY complete fix is to SAND the heatsink (no more than 0.1mm should be sanded in total ideally, and 0.2mm absolute MAXIMUM PERIOD) fully flat and then after doing that, replace the thermal pads on the CPU chokes and CPU VRM's with those of half the thickness (example: 1mm ->0.5mm pads). Core "#'" are the ones shown in HWInfo64 and HWmonitor.






Even after sanding fully flat AND reducing the thermal pad thickness, getting even pressure is still a challenge (see @Ivan994 's post). He had perfect temps for 7 months then all the temps shot up (average time for having to repaste on direct die cooling) but when he repasted, he had trouble getting proper pressure alignment, causing 'imbalanced pressure+hot cores+premature paste pumpout/dryout" problems again. When you have direct die BGA cooling, any TINY bit of variance in pressure causes wildly altered temperatures, because you are touching the die AND not using any extra aid for head spreading evenly.

This issue doesn't occur with LGA laptops or desktops, because the Integrated heat spreader does its job-(ignoring the delidding debate): the IHS contacts the core, spreads the heat evenly around the surface and then the huge desktop cooler is able to pick it up with it being spread out. That's why it's called a 'heat spreader'. BGA laptops don't have this, so contact must be perfect or you get issues like this.

 

I edited my post. Yeah the one you used is terrible. It's only okish for desktop applications, not for notebooks.

 

Great info guys. I think my plan of attack will be to order the liquid metal stuff with excellent reviews on amazon and I'll also check for flatness of the heatsink. Its weird because the GPUS dont ever go above 60C with the same thermal paste running stress tests. Possibly because the CPU is bottnecking it so bad, who knows lol. Alright well thank you guys so much.

 

Hey there, one more question for you regarding sanding the heatsink flat. I'm a welder/machinist for a living so the idea doesnt really scare me. What method did you use to get it super flat? A honing stone wrapped in sand paper?

 

You can remove your heatsink and make a picture of it, then we could be able to tell if your heatsink fit is good or not or you can use pressure paper.

also you really don't need to do lapping unless you plan on competitive overclocking. For normal use any high quality thermal paste will do just fine.

 

I edited my post to explain the difference in problems between LGA and BGAbooks, but you really only need 3 things:
1: 91%+ Alcohol (water works but alcohol evaporates better and still helps lubricate).
2: good sanding block
3: good sandpaper kit.

What I recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R4Y8BO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=A1B7M9EQGNCLQA&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZ6TG05/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will need to remove the c-clips from the heatsink screws to remove the screws out (you don't want the screws tearing the sandpaper). Easily done with a "jeweler's" flat bladed screwdriver (or one used for eyeglasses).