New Owner of MSI GE72MVR 7RG, CPU up to 90c and GPU near that!

Hey Everyone,

I was curious what y'all have done to keep your MSI laptop cool. I was testing Shadows of Mordor at Ultra and found the CPU to get rather hot, along with the GPU. Yes, I was expecting it to get pretty warm, but was rather surprised that it got THAT hot. I was sweating.

Something that I did notice, which is rather odd, it would get warm on top of the keyboard and the aluminum palm rest...but underneath the bottom plastic, it was cool. It seemed that the heat felt like it was coming to me rather than escaping away. Has anyone else seen this?

I did try to undervolt the CPU using Throttlestop, both the CPU and cache by 100.6mv and the integrated GPU by 40mv... it didn't seem to help.

Ideas?

 

Aluminium is a heatsink ... Plastic warps, my GT75 creeks as it warms up ......
90°C is too hot, repaste with a good thermal paste. I keep away from Liquid Metal (Gallium) as it need frequent application based on the amount of heat it is subject to.

"Gallium is corrosive to all metals except tungsten and tantalum"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_metal
Cleaning the residue during maintenance will cause the copper to wear away leaving a concave surface. This decreases the contact area and reduces the heat transfer effect. Not so bad if you have a desktop, notebook cooling is a bit more involved replacing the heatsinks.

Dragon Center fan speeds, this is my settings:

I have the GT75 and there is no real comparison for mine to yours.
You probably will need to set the fan speeds higher than mine to get the same cooling effect.
For example, I'm doing Deus-Ex Mankind Divided, ULTRA, 114fps average, GPU 55°C/CPU 48°C with the settings above.
I have done nothing with the system, its running stock.

Dragon center is a buggy app, you do need it however.
You may find at notebook startup it will not run the fans to your desired settings, you may have to open DC to get it to run fans on your desired settings.
Using the fan boost function, when shutting it off DC will return to 'Auto' fan settings (which are way too low), not the one you programmed for game play. This is particularly annoying during intensive game play and it has caused over heating and a thermal shutdown 4x for me.

 

There are reasons to be wary of Liquid Metal, but that isn't one of them. The surface alloying between copper and galinstan is only a very thin layer and is utterly harmless. What needs to be cleaned are the granules of solid remnants (indium/tin) after the gallium is lost to the heatsink. This process will only happen once so long as its not sanded back to a pure copper surface.

Sanding any heatsink surface should always be done using a "lapping" process, you sand the entire surface against a big sanding block, or sandpaper taped to a flat surface so the entire surface is ground completely flat. This is difficult and in some cases near impossible on some heatsinks due to bends and varying shapes in their heatplates

OP, if you are going to disassemble, should check heatsink fit as well. If you're not confident, consider an RMA as you don't want to break something but the response unless you really push (or have thermal throttling or shutdowns) is usually "cpu temperature below 100C is within operating spec". Ultimately, the thinner the laptop the hotter it runs especially on a low noise fan profile which "auto" tends to be.

 

@AU4U and bennyg,

Much appreciate the responses.

I've hear that about liquid metal and seen some related videos. I've also seen some promising graphite pads that are on par with normal thermal paste.

I know that running pretty much any game on 1080 resolution with ultra graphics is asking a lot of hardware. I was surprised by the results of the cooling solution.

With that, AU4U, my fan speeds are not as high as yours. Which model do you have, the 8RF or 8RG? Looking at the cooling solution, which is similar, it appears that you're cooling an extra component.

Bennyg, I was thinking on re-pasting, but since this is a 13 day old laptop, does MSI use sucky pastes?

I've even messed with undervolting with ThrottleStop... It didn't help much, honestly. -100.6mv on the CPU and Cache and -40mv on the integrated GPU. Just playing YouTube videos, I was in the 50's reaching 60c. As far as disassembling, I've already done it once to replace the NVMe SSD with a Samsung 970 250GB one. Dual-booting Win10 and Linux Mint 19 at the moment. I have some IOMMU (VT-d or GPU Pass through) projects I want to test with. If I can accomplish everything I want with it, I'll remove Windows altogether.

Any other recommendations? Perhaps on both regular and liquid metal pastes? If looking at comparisons between various pastes and graphite padding are as close as I've already seen, I'll probably go to that.

Thanks!

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

So, just to baseline.... sitting idle for the last several hours without chrome running or anything other than Dragon Center, ThrottleStop (CPU/Cache = -100.3mv and iGPU = -40mv), and HWMonitor, the CPU has been up to 60c but was around 48c-51c.

I set Shift = ECO
CPU Fan Speeds set to:

• 50%
• 70%
• 80%
• 90%
• 100%
• 110%

GPU Fan Speeds set to:

• 40%
• 70%
• 80%
• 90%
• 100%
• 110%

I think at this point I am going to get either some Noctua Thermal Paste or, if the cooling solution is all copper, the Thermal Grizzly/Coollaboratory Liquid Metal. Coollaboratory also have a MetalPad that might be better and less messy? I haven't seen any reviews on it yet.

Refined thoughts?

****Correction, probably won't go with Liquid Metal. Seen vids on people applying with solutions and electrical tape on the proc and all to avoid bleeding/seepage onto other components. I think I'll just do the Noctua and see what happens.

 

Noooo! Never swap pads for paste!
And its a real bad habit to slap a strip on for a bunch of them. Individual pads for each item only. It's a good habit and only takes a few seconds more of time.
If your machine is in a dusty place, taking off the back and inspecting the fans may not reveal all the lint in the cooling fins.

 

Depending on your heat scale and where the ramp points sit, you may have to increase the fan speeds.
Its possible to have the ramp point set too high on the temp scale causing the fan to not really kick into high speed until its smokin hot.
I could see my GT75 melting into a puddle of plastic at those temps.
I have GC and 4 tabs open, DXMD idle on the toolbar, my temps are CPU43/GPU35, its the DXMD keeping the CPU warm, otherwise it would be 32°.
At idle, my fan speeds are 2150rpm for both CPU/GPU, my turbo boost is 5000rpm, so I'm just under ½ speed.
The TDP for the i7-8750 is 35 to 45W, this is a factor in how much heat your machine produces.

 

@AU4U

Just for clarification, the "pad" is basically the same as the Liquid Metal, but needs to be melted onto the die. You're supposed to let the heat of the proc melt the metal onto it, etc. It is just an alternative than applying the liquid.

Also, for clarification, here is the current heating solution with this model:


Lucky for me, the laptop isn't in a dusty place almost at any time. It is on at spurts, some time at work, some time at home, etc.

With my previous mention above, I did let change my undervolting a bit. CPU/.Cache are currently set to -125mv and the iGPU is set to -100mv. Ive got tabs playing YouTube videos and refreshing other tabs with Dragon Center, HWMonitor, and ThrottleStop running. Now, the temps are staying around 49c with the fans going with the settings noted last. I think I'll leave this for a bit and see what changes I will see. The fans are noticeable though... which I would imagine probably shouldn't bee as loud as they are (CPU = 4200 RPM and GPU = 3000 RPM). CPU load is currently 16% with memory at 44% (Thanks, Chrome.).

 

Here's a question for ya... did you install the latest BIOS and firmware? I was told by MSI to only implement these if I am having issues. Since the heat is "expected" I would not imagine that they would explain that I am having issues... just discomfort.

 

Interesting... Started Shadow of Mordor again at 1080p and Ultra graphics settings (Also set Motion Blur + Anti-Aliasing set to max on all objects). CPU is at 65c and the GPU at 55c. This is with the current undervolting of -125mv on the CPU/Cache and -100mv on the iGPU. CPU is clocking in at 3.4-3.6GHz.

No changes in performance and even the keyboard isn't as hot as it was last night when I saw much higher temps. If this is stable, I'll stay here, but I'll still swap the Noctua thermal paste.

 

Ummmm .... Ur havin issues, you are almost heating to the T Junction.

Yes, Bios and EC are updated as well as the others to MSI listings, OS is at 1809 v17763.55

The video, @ 10:45 he starts talking about bloatware and a clean install of the OS, possibly look at whats running in the background, you could have something hogging your system.
I have deleted Nahimic and Killer Control Center (Is known to cause issues).
13 Days old, you might have pending updates as well causing a spike.
Update Nvidia through the NVIDIA GeForce Experience.

 

Paste AND pads, they go together in a servicing.

 

THB, I had never used both paste and pads.

With your recommendation, I'll go ahead and update the BIOS and firmware. Don't worry, you aren't liable for anything.

Honestly, I normally do that anyway, I just hadn't in this case since I was testing it out. Even with the 13 day old remark, I hadn't had everything installed until Monday. The NVMe took a while to get in, Thanks DHL. smh

Knowing the current stats, I'll get those updated and check idle and game stats and report back.

 

OK, so I am on the latest BIOS release (E179CIMS/30E), even though the latest release on the MSI website shows in May 2018 and my BIOS says it is on a March 2018 release. Oh well, it is updated to the same and the date says the same as it did before.

Updating the EC Firmware... those fans going 200% was abrupt!

Go figure, the EC Firmware was also at the proper version (179CEMS1.106). sigh

Guess I am left to updating drivers and Windows 10. I'll also see about removing Nahimic and Killer, haven't needed them yet anyway.

I did uninstall other bloatware like Norton and Office, etc. I could go more slim as well. I could even just do a Windows reset and wipe everything... hmmmm.

 

OK, everything updated except for Windows... which it is working on. And, yeah, Dragon Center is buggy and quite annoying that I keep have to change my keyboard LED with every reboot.

I'll post back.

 

Some people say to completely delete the app, reboot, then reinstall it.
Mines fine.

Took me 5 weeks to get my GT75 sorted out, but still don't have Windows TP settings ......
I bought this, did the start up update, then it updated to 1803, then it updated to 1809, and then the 1809 patch.
I've been chasing update apps for 2 months! .... Is this going to stop?!
I didn't get the misplaced doc and picture folder (Is in the windows.old folder) in the 1809 update, but the patch is out now so go do the update, you shouldn't have a problem.
Did you know you can update the BIOS through the Device Manager, this is recommended by me, its easy, I did mine this way.
The 5 start and stops had me sitting on the edge of my chair.

 

Windows Updates can be annoying, that's for sure. I wished it would download and install everything during installation or recovery. Oh well.

Dang it... Hearthstone isn't playing nice... Tavern Brawl is annoying... but I keep playin'.

As far as updates stopping... they is like taxes... never ending. When did you get your GT75VR, anyway?

Huh... I saw the "Firmware" device, but didn't think anything of it. That's cool. UEFI is pretty neat.

 

Dang it... I hate you... (not really)

That is a really nice laptop... mechanical keyboard (blue switches?), Core I9, three NVMe slots, GeForce GTX 1070 SLI... what price was it? I checked the MSI website and didn't see anything under WHERE TO BUY...

Man.... that thing is 10 lbs though. What I've got is just shy of 6 lbs.

 

Geek Porn:

 

That. Is. Beautiful.

BTW, I did run Shadow of Mordor like I mentioned before at home. Mid 60s on the CPU and Mid 50s on the GPU. Looks like it either was warmer in my room than I thought, or it was doing other things. Given, I only was able to run it for about 40 mins, if that. I did also just get Bioshock (The Collection off Newegg), so, I'll be "testing" on that as well.

 

Well, it seems to be working well. Ambiant temp at 71f and it stays around 42c Cpu and 37c GPU. Playing Mordor goes up to 65c on CPU. I still ordered some Noctua paste and will apply later on.

Overall, pretty happy.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

OK, whoa... major improvement.

So, I've been using CPUID HWZMonitor on boot in Windows for some time. The MAX would always be in the mid 60's.

I've just taken this thing apart. I removed and reapplied the thermal strips directly on what they are supposed to cool (Except for the purple ones, those suckers are clingy!), removed the current thermal paste (Which wasn't too overdone, but it was still overdone.), and applied Noctua's thermal compound (NT--H1) to the CPU and GPU. I simply put enough on there to cover the die. Used the butt-end of an old pen to apply it evenly.

What a difference!

The first reboot, HWMonitor has not even shown the CPU in the 50's (49c)! The CPU temp is constantly in the upper 30's on idle.

Man... this is awesome!

 

So, I finished the F. E. A. R. series... good set of games. That's not why I am posting though.

I started DOOM today. Set all Video settings to Ultra, running at 1080p, max to Antialiasing, etc.

Highest temp... 68c!

This machine gets hot playing at those settings for 1.5 hours at 60 fps.

This is a sweet ride.

For anyone getting one of these, swap the paste.