Another Successful Transaction With HIDevolution and MSI

As a continuation to this topic: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/msi-sent-my-laptop-to-the-wrong-address.810322/

I am happy to received my laptop (GT75VR Titan Pro-202) yesterday afternoon. There was a problem only on the delay of the freight and handling but the goods was delivered in good condition.

Thank you so much to HIDevolution for being awesome, especially to @Ted@HIDevolution @Donald@HIDevolution @Zoltan@HIDevolution @Juan@Hidevolution @Jenny@Hidevolution and MSI, especially to Ming S. Rong who made a special arrangement for the trade-in program.

I am sure your business will flourish because you know what is good will.

Merry Christmas and a Prosperous New Year!

P.S

The screen on this thing is so beautiful and the colors are super crisp and clear. So much better than my old GT80S Titan, and I must say that this is probably the best screen I've ever experienced so far.

 

Now time to repaste (unless you had their repaste service) and overclock that thing ! Let's see what she can do!

 

Yes, I'll post the before and after results after I applied Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut on CPU, Gelid GC Extreme on GPU, and Fujipoly Extreme Thermal Pads on heat sensitive surfaces.

What other things would you like me to test/check?

 

Just be safe when using Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - that stuff is messy and can easily be spilled on the MB.

Good luck!

 

Will do.

P.S

Before I start opening the laptop and installing SSD, RAM and whatnot...I'm still looking for an updated Bloatware Free Edition of Windows 10 RS3. The only stripped version that I can find is in MajorGeeks, that was uploaded by Phoenix that was updated 2 months ago which seems to have an issue with the appstore and group policy not working properly, and the one from Mauricio Chacon which also seem to have an issue that Cortana is still present.

Should I stick to a stock Windows 10 that comes with the laptop and disable bloat using O&O Shutup instead?

 

Install the stock version of W10 OS for faster install times and MSMG is buggy on FCU builds which is a major headache.
The OS will be installed under 2-3 mins.
I'd say give the LM and TIM sometime to settle down, say 2-3 days. Use the PC normally like you do. And after that benchmark the PC like hell.
I never thought Hidevolution's company reps. had deep interest in gaming and Overclocking.

 

That is too bad. I still do have the stripped down version of the Windows 10 RS2 and I thought that I can make my own BFE version of the FCU build. But I don't think that is going to happen anytime soon.

And yes, thanks for the tip.

 

Hey! why not install Creators aka RS2 and skip RS3 buggy version. I am skipping it until RS4 comes out to iron out the issues in RS3.

 

The problem with my own stripped down version of RS2 is that I removed the appstore, and upon reading Phoenix's post that the game mode will not function properly.

Edit.

Nvm though, game mode is probably useless anyway.

 

Do you want to see 1-2 fps increase or what?
Install stock RS2 version and after that remove components/apps you don't need using Dism++.
I use UWP apps and Win32/64 games/apps w/o any issues.
Even with bloatwares I get max performance and battery life all thanks to TS.

 

Because I'm a crybaby and I need all the FPS that I can get!

Ofc not, I'm just messing with ya.

But yeah, I'm going to install RS2 in the coming days after I successfully applied LM and TM and come up with great results.

 

Truth be told, I was playing Sleeping Dogs Def. edition on radeon m330 which was downclocked by Lenovo and I OC'ed to its max limits and game mode simply gave 1-2 fps increase. Without it I never saw a difference. On a high end machine game mode does not affect fps at all. You can only OC higher to reap fps benefits along with increased temps.

 

Seriously? I knew those YT videos were too good to be true. "Game Mode = 5 - 10 FPS in a very old machine" yeah right. Okay, I gotta git rid of my "Gaming/Game" word fetish @Falkentyne

 

Game mode was worst when there was single channel RAM and needed dual channel RAM to get 1-2 fps increase.
I can't use RTSS to capture videos, sorry.
if you still want Game mode use stock OS or use DISM to repair your BFE to include game mode and other stuffs. But beware it will be Bloatware edition again.

 

Ah. In short, garbage.

 

For LM:
1) buy some cellulose based transparent nail polish. You can also use Super33+ tape. The nail polish is easier to obtain unless you haven't ordered the Conductonaut yet, then you can order both. Apply 3 coats of nail polish over exposed SMD resistors and traces around the cpu (or GPU) for insulation from the conductive balls of doom that may escape from the BGA.

2) nail polish may result in slightly better temps than tape; less physical materials to trap heat in something, even if its 1-2c difference at most, although no one has done a scientific temp test between nail polish vs Super 33+ tape vs Kapton tape.
Kapton and super 33+ (do NOT use generic electrical tape!) will require more work to cut and fit but is easily removable. Nail polish is easier and cleaner (just don't get any on the silicon; you will have to be very careful if nail polishing the GPU SMD's because they are much closer to the GPU. Take your time carefully. The results are worth it).

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/after-1-year-of-thermal-grizzly-conductonaut.799343/

although he's the guy who also said that he got better temps with nail polish protection than with tape.

3) highly compressible foam dam barrier, cut out around the CPU (and or GPU, if you choose GPU). Leave about 1-3mm of spare space of clearance around the BGA, even 4mm of clearance will not be bad if you don't trust your crafting skills. Use nail polish dabs to attach the foam dam to the BGA/LGA housing (whatever the hell that green surface around the silicon is called), so the foam dam doesn't move when you attach the heatsink on. The foam dam MUST BE HIGHLY COMPRESSIBLE. It must compress in your fingers to literally a micrometer, with no resistance. This dam will stop and trap any extra LM from escaping and shorting out anything on the mainboard. The nail polish is for insulating the SMD resistors on the package housing (or the super 33+ or kapton tape). DO NOT rely on the foam to do this! Always make sure you use nail polish or super/kapton tape first. The foam dam is INSURANCE only. Free insurance.

Mr fox has a video of the foam he used, as well as the airline pilot who started the foam dam movement: @tijgert

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...liquid-ultra-pro.791489/page-38#post-10534488

Here is what Mr Fox used.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...liquid-ultra-pro.791489/page-41#post-10581804

Get the softest foam you can. The less resistance, the better.


MSI BGAbooks will have higher temps on cores 1 and 3 vs 2 and 4 because of balance resistance caused by thermal pads when already dealing with very low static pressure to begin with. To help mitigate this, you can try the following; if done perfectly you can get temps to 1C-2C difference on all cores on non-AVX 8 thread loads:

remove stock thermal pads on CPU.
replace stock pads with 0.5mm arctic pads on grey square chokes
replace stock pads with 1mm arctic pads on black VRM's (behind the chokes)
Clean perfectly the heatsink of old material (EXTREMELY FINE GRIT SANDPAPER can really help here too!) and then paint a very light layer of liquid metal over the silicon imprint area on the heatsink (e.g leftovers on the spreading swab or paintbrush applicator, or whatever you used).

I found best results using 0.5mm pads on the grey chokes even though stock was 1mm, because this creates less resistance and better CPU temps because then there is less pad resistance on that side so there should be slightly more pressure on that side of the BGA chip. Besides, the VRM's could also use the extra pressure (if any) rather than the chokes.

For the GPU repadding, 1mm is fine on everything; the GPU has overengineered cooling anyway; heatpipes coming from each side (3+3) going to two radiators, and VRM's using a separate assembly going to the CPU fan side with another radiator (unfortunately this does hurt CPU cooling; the CPU having 2 rads instead of 1 would help it run at Clevo TM1 temp levels, but GPU VRM cooling being focused heavily is still a good thing. This also allows good TDP modding of MSI 1070 cards (MSI 1070 can be TDP hard modded from 115W to 195W with GREAT temps on GT73VR and GT75VR if using single card). Such a mod also requires using RW Everything to change the EC RAM power ID from 230W to 330W to avoid CPU throttle and absurdly high battery drain boost, and buying a 330W Delta PSU (1070 owners). 1080 modding ability and safe ranges are unknown however, and its also unknown whether GT75 and GT73 will CPU TDP throttle if power draw exceeds 330W. No one has tested this. Only on clevos have 1080's been TDP hard modded tested.

 

I feel a little disappointed in myself by giving them a feedback to add Game mode, More improvements to Windows Defender and EMET. I'm a little happy that the %age of upvotes was really low.
So, I have decided to wait for upcoming releases and I'll keep giving feedbacks and suggestions to insider releases.