240W PSU for MSI MS 16F2 Notebook

I will do, bought a watt meter that measures from the wall as well so I can see what power my system is drawing too

 

i was just asking how to measure the real power consuption, since i can't imagine mine overclocking both cpu and gpu...can you post a link for the product you have just bought? thx mate

this morning i've followed your tip and ordered this:
eBay Italia - Aste online e shopping a prezzo fisso

price is really low but it will take a month to come!

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003ELLGDC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

on amazon UK, it has more functions than I need but seeing it being able to calculate watts from the wall and cheapest I opted in for it

 

searched it for you on ebay italy: power meter | eBay

 

thx! it's something connected directly to the power line in the wall, simplier then i thought, i'm not so confident with electrical jobs! i'll try to find it in a electric supplier near home, i seems quite cheap and i'm very curios to know the default overall power consuption and the overclocked one!

Of course i'll measure also my desktop with strong oc and sli config!

 

having done no soldering job at all and with some wire tape I'm pretty confident that the new power adapter is able to deliver AT LEAST 180W with no power or heating issue within 2 hours of prime 95 + kombuster, this is with the screw on jack that I purchased like this:
5.5 x 2.5mm Male Barrel Connector with Screw Tighten Wire Connection - CNT-525M

the interior wire of the adapter cable is, however, a VERY tight fit through the hole, so for whomever wants to do the job smoothly I highly recommend soldering the wires before fitting it through the hole to screw them tight

I will be getting another cable manufactured WITH the 5.5x2.5mm jack once I'm back in HK, there could be 14-12AWG wires with the correct jack sold or modded professionally for a much cheaper price than here in UK, however I might as well try out by soldering the tips since the original wire is of really good quality and I don't want to waste its potential

 

power meter arrived, with stock old 1762 EC I am able to draw 210W from the mains
this is achieved by turning off BD PROCHOT in throttle stop, for prime 95, boost up clock speed of my GTX670M to 1600/1400 in nv inspector during kombuster
set my display on, AS-SSD benchmark on raid volume, hd tune pro on HW green and crystal disk mark on the 1Tb seagate drive
all done at the same time and I get the 210+ W power draw, don't under estimate the HDD, it draws 5Vx0.75A = 3.75W each during benchmark test, and the consumption on dual msata is more than 1% of the power consumption so it is not a negligible value to ignore

also the keyboard is lit up and the USB peripherals(draws power) are one usb2.0 cooling fan
usb 3.0 hub with 1 mouse and 2 mechanical keyboard and power charger to my wireless hdd, another usb3.0 external hdd which requires the mains power(so the cable is data only, THIS is negligible power draw)

 

now consider a linear relationship between the 75W card and 100W card(670m and 680M) with a scale factor of 1(strictly, if its not 1 it is possible to be an exponential relationship) the extra 25W will definitely need a 240W adapter, note that the power jack did get a bit of heat dissipated during full load which is within acceptable range

 

update: by using the power tip change method I managed to overload the dell 240W PSU past the 230W power draw from the mains, this is weird considering its power rating, this could be either an EC issue (shutting off the internal power jack of the laptop) or what else?

tests I've run is prime 95 with 5% BCLK and msi kombuster with GPU clock speed set at 770/1700 (I know it will damage the card but the power supply stopped before heat builds up to unacceptable level), also, by trying out with the original PSU it also got past 230W draw before shutting off, however this is surely the PSU instead of the power jack

if someone can happily provide me with a confirmed no power limiting EC for the older msi 1762(the one with stock win 7 bios, which has the 8 button touch panel layout) it would be of great help

 

well done, mate, i'll operate by changing the tip and buying the wall meter to confirm your analysis: what's the cpu clock you used for your tests?

 

3.7 Ghz CPU clock

 

so it's sure a heavy load.....one note, with my previous plug mode my tester (directly applied to the jack) reports 18,9v instead of rated 19,5v...dunno if it's due to a bad mod (not very precise solder) or if the psu increases the voltage while on load...can you check it when you have time?

 

it is normal, note that in electrical circuits, where power is determined by voltage and amp, it is essential that the system draws the correct voltage, where as amps are only determining how much voltage is passed through every second, a circuit requires a regulated voltage but can take different current depending on its thermal capacity(how much heat it can take) whereas with the wrong voltage going through the circuit will lead to incorrect system operation, in simple terms you can replace voltage with data, and amps as data speed, if voltage is wrong the data is wrong, therefore the lapotop jack PCB(the controller board) serves as a voltage regulator that corrects the voltage coming from the PSU (the circuit between the PSU and the DC jack controller makes a complete cycle, and the determining factor is the voltage regulator on the DC jack PCB)

 

thanks for your kind and technical answer! so, if the system is working properly i can assume that the jack pcb on motherboard is regulating the voltages coming from psu..
Since i've no knowledge at all (i just changed the tip with the help of a friend) i have some doubts about that point, thx again!

 

All power supplies will drop in voltage with draw.

 

hi Meaker, so if i've meausered 18,9v instead of rated 19,5v with the tester applied directly to the psu tip i can assume to have a voltage drop during real usage...doesn't sound good,,,(since now i was convinced that during load the psu would raise the power!)

 

The notebook itself is rated 19V, so the voltage regulator from within the notebook changed the power draw to 19V, since voltage is regulated and a complete circuit measures the same voltage throughout, no matter which part of the PSU you measure it from(within the same circuit) it will be 19V, since the complete circuit has voltage regulator, if you have enough electronic circuit knowledge you will know that even though the voltage regulator is not inside the PSU, by drawing out a simple diagram, which consist of 3 parts, the power supply, voltage regulator, and notebook components, you can easily realise that the voltage regulator can be crossed out from the diagram and change the power supply to the regulated voltage, which is the stated 19V draw

 

If thats the tip voltage with it plugged in but not loaded then that is a bit low for a 19.5v brick. You would expect it to be bang on with no load.