[Guide] How to take full control of the i7-8750H (Advanced version)

No but the point is he got it to 4.5ghz where upon it crashed that was the point, it succeeded in getting there but obviously it did not post

 

What iccmax for and what seeing should it on be please? I am have bsod when messed around with this setting I have msi ge75 2080 with i7 8750h

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It seems like it's just how the program is design and I believe it's a bug that Intel left there, I don't use XTU but it seems to me XTU could actually mess up the BIOS. So what the video actually proves to me is that ThrottleStop is safer in this extend as most users like to try clicking the multiplier to the max and see what happens.

What if you back down the undervolt a few more tick, does it still go BSOD?

On the GS65 I was able to use 928 in the bios which is 232A for the iccmax in ThrottleStop, but I believe 800 in the bios which is 200A for the iccmax in ThrottleStop will be enough for the 8750H.

In ThrottleStop you can try going for max for the iccmax.

 

What iccmax for exactly?

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Maximum Current allowed.

 

ICC 232A for 928 for CPU Core, what about cache? My default is 11, should it that stay that way?

 

Changing the core should already raise the current limit.

The ICCMAX for Cache doesn't seem to do anything.

 

Hey everybody.

I'm new here so I would like to say hello to everyone first.

I have a question regarding to this post:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...control-of-the-i7-8750h-advanced-version.8230

If my only issue is power throttling, can I skip all other 1st post steps and proceed according to this instruction from post #31?

I have MSI GE73 Raider (i7 8750H and GTX 1070) already UVed to -0,154.

Thanks in advance.

 

You can go straight to post #31 if you are only removing the Power Limit Throttle.

 

Thanks for reply!

I'll try it later on day.

Any additional suggestions or tips according to this specific process?
Is there something I can, let's say, screw up?

I just want to mention that I used ThrottleStop to UV my CPU instead of BIOS - informing just in case.

 

Okay, so:

I did it.
Now my CPU goes up to 3,9 GHz just like I wanted.

But there is new issue - after that my temperatures increased from 78°C - 80°C to 92°C - 95°C and thermal throttling occurs and at this point my CPU goes down to 3,7 - 3,8 GHz.

I didn't touch Watts in ThrottleStop Turbo Power Limits, just changed BIOS settings according to post #31.

Any ideas?

My last -0,160 UV tries ended with crash so I am not sure if higher undervolting is the solution.

 

the best option in my opinion is to do a repaste on CPU and GPU using THERMAL GRIZZLY KRYONAUT which helped me to keep the temps around 80-83 degree

 

Yeah, this would be the best move if I wouldn't have warranty.

I think I will just return to stock BIOS settings for now as just few games use full 8750h potencial.

3,2 GHz is not that bad overall.

 

For the IMON just don't place "+" on the prefix, just make sure it is "-" since you are adding a negative offset to the reported TDP.

IMON tweak doesn't brick or screw up, but the AC / DC Loadline does if you left your old UV settings on. Once AC / DC Loadline is lowered, the UV offset you can go for will be less further, like on mine if I set the AC / DC Loadline to 180 I could UV the cache to -150mV, but with AC / DC Loadline to 1, I could only UV to -40mV otherwise it'll start showing errors in benchmarks.

The advantage of setting the AC / DC loadline is to have a more stablized voltage, stablized voltage also means stablized temperature, the temperature will fluctuate less.

 

Do you mean the set multiplier box? If so, you need to set the non turbo ratio to 0, then you can set a fixed multiplier.

 

This will keep the cpu on whatever multiplier you set when active but will fluctuate in idle, i'm not sure if that's what you intend to do. The maximum the multiplier will set at is the whatever you have the turbo ratio limit set when 6 cores are active (for example i have 35 set for 4 cores, and 31 set for 5 and 6. So setting it manually to 35 just caps it at 31). So basically if you want it to turbo higher in applications it will do so but when gaming it wont go higher then what you set the last 2 core ratios. Hope this makes sense lol.



Oh, i forgot to mention a few Bios settings i've activated/deactivated. It's been pretty long since i went back in messing with things. I'll let you know when im not busy. Just another note, whatever you set the multiplier to, it will not go above that setting even if you uncheck the box. You just need to change the non turbo ratio back to 21 or whatever you desire. Minimum cache should be set at 22 for those who kept the minimum clock rate multiplier at stock, 8 if you unlocked it to idle that low, this gets rid of the "EDP Other" under ring in limit reasons.mff

 

So, something weird is happening on my end:

1. A few months ago I unlocked bios and did the all the changes stated on OP (both for bios and for windows/throttlestop settings)

2. then, a couple of days ago I updated BIOS to:
vendor American Megatrends Inc.
version E16Q4IMS.112
date 05/16/2019
ROM size 16384 KB

This is latest version on the msi product support page for the 2019 gs65 8se.

3. Considering it was a bios update, I believed the bios settings would reset (and they did) So I set to make the bios changes again.
All worked except setting the CPU Flex Ratio Settings to 8. On my end, it wont budge from 20 no matter what number I try to change it to.
And, of course, the CPU Flex Ratio Override is set to ENABLED beforehand.


Any ideas what might be my problem?

Thanks




EDIT: Just in case, I'm going to do @xLima 's bios reset procedure, will return with results

 

Mine is a GS65 8RF, I didn't have this problem but my Physic score in FS was lowered by at least 400 points when flashed to the newest bios, which contains the new microcode 0xB4 released by intel.

So I flashed back to my old bios and the problem went away, it could be the bios or the microcode, you might also benefit by downgrading the bios.

 

Hey guys, I've been gone a while and just saw that everyone is OCing their ram now via Uncore offset. Since I quit using Throttlestop I thought I'd add some insight for doing it the more traditional way.

1: As long as you don't mess with turn around timings, you should never have to clear bad timings by holding the power button. Your settings will either boot or the machine will reboot itself with default timings.

2: Under the Platform Voltage Overrides menu, one can find overrides for both VCCSA and VCCIO. By default they are set to 1.05V. These can be set to 1.25V for every day use if that's what your OC needs. NOTE: these two should always stay within 0.05V of each other. It's does the same thing as adding the offset to Uncore.

Now, there are some other relevant settings that should be changed in BIOS that I will have to go back and look for, but you don't NEED to change them to get anything working.

133 vs 100: 133 is usually easier to get higher clock speeds working.

Bclk odd ratio should stay disabled

Generally, you can gain more from better secondary timings and mediocre primaries, than great primaries and garbage secondary timings. Ideally you should aim for a good balance between speed, primary and secondary timings. For months I ran at 2933 15 15 15 1.25V. Recently I switched to 3200 17 19 19 38 at 1.35V with VCCSA/IO both at 1.25V. Memtest says this is rock solid for my kit ( Hyper X Impact 32GB dual rank 2,666 15 17 17 38 Samsung b-die). I might try lowering voltages a bit but 1.35 is quite fine for every day use.

Secondaries: tfaw always seems to be 30 by default but a good kit of ram can go down to 16. TRRD_L/S must be set to 1/4 tfaw's value.

Refresh recovery gets hairy below 400 at higher speeds and won't make a huge difference. I recommend keeping it there if your sticks allow it.

DDR4 will theoretically run just fine with a refresh cycle of 65535. However, I like to keep mine in the 40-50,000 range.

Don't know what settings to try?: Keep all settings stock and raise the multiplier until it won't boot. Go back to the last good multiplier and if you're happy with that speed, lower the CAS latency by 1 until that won't boot. If not, use this simple calculation to estimate what might work: desired speed/CAS = X, where X is a number approaching, but still less than 200. (Side note: if you can get a working OC with timings above this, let us all know. So far, no combination of speed and cas will boot for me if the ratio is at or above 200, which I believe to be a limitation of the motherboard design or H370 chipset.)

Examples: You should be able to run 2666 at CL 14, 2933 CL15, 3000 CL 16, 3192/3200 CL 17, etc.

Dual rank vs Single rank: Dual rank will not clock quite as high as Single, even on the most perfectly designed 2-slot board. If you don't need 32GB, and can get a pair of quality 8GB sticks, go for single rank dimms.

That's all I've got for now. There really isn't much else to do in this BIOS.

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Sorry, I meant limited by mobo design or ram pcb. Idk why I had the chipset on my mind.


Also, Corsair sells laptop kits that go as high as 4000 CL19. Granted, the 3600-4000MHHz kits only come in 4x8 (I really want to see a 4 slot, X299 laptop), but if anyone here is wealthy and wants to experiment, please report your findings.

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Hey.

I've been trying and trying but nothing helps.

I set AC/DC Loadline to 1 and undervolted CPU to -0,55 but my temps are still so high - about 93°C under full load.

Anything else I can do to get full performance and keep temps around 85°C?

2nd thing:

RAM OC - after pushing power button for 45s my BIOS settings are restored to defaults (custom profile is not chosen, OC Feature disabled). Is that mean that I better don't try to overclock my memory?

 

Have you tried repasting already?

If you still can't get the temperature down after repasting then lowering the multiplier will be your next option.

It means you are able to reset the RAM settings by pressing the power button for 45 seconds, if anything goes wrong when OC'ing the RAM, pressing the power button for 45 seconds will revert back to default.

 

Thanks for reply.

No, I didn't try repasting my CPU, as laptop is still under warranty and I will lose it if I do it.

What multiplier do you suggest to get great performance and decent temps?

 

It depends on the temperature you are comfortable with.

I prefer keeping mine below 85C so it was x36 @ 6 cores 12 threads for mine and it was still ok for some CPU intensive games like Anthem.

 

Disregard this if I'm wrong, because the AC/DC Load Line setting in question is functionally ambiguous. Especially since there is a more normal version Load Line setting elsewhere in the BIOS.


Aggressive Load Line settings don't lower power consumption. In fact, they do the opposite. Setting it higher (or in this case, from 80 to 1) tells the VRM to keep the voltage under load closer to the idle voltage, which increases performance at the expense of heat and a voltage spike at the end of the duty cycle, which has to be mitigated with a higher VRM switching frequency. A setting not found in the GS65 bios.

For example, say your CPU is locked at 3.9GHz @1.2V. What happens when you go from CPU idle to load is, the VRM is feeding 1.2V at idle, then at the start of the load cycle, there is a tiny voltage drop, then the voltage flattens out either below (conservative LLC), even with (moderately high LLC, or possibly above (aggressive LLC) the expected 1.2V. At the end of the cycle, there is a spike in voltage (actually several) referred to as "ripple". Extreme LLC can cause that series of spikes to push unsafe levels of voltage into the CPU.


This is why the other LLC setting (I'm not at my PC to give exact menu directions) is set to -2100 Ohms. (The range is something like +100 negative -2100 Ohms). If I understand the way the AC/DC Load Line setting works, a setting of 1 is akin to more aggressive LLC, which as I said creates more heat, not less.

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I didn't touch AC/DC 1st time and situation was the same as now.

 

The level of heat is a physical limitation that only has a handful of solutions. You can't change the parts or design of the laptop. Nor the program or cpu instructions needed to execute your workload. The only thing you can actually do is tweak the settings you already have, and repaste. Be aware though, that even with high end TIMs like Kryonaut or liquid metal, certain workloads like rendering etc, will still push the CPU to throttle. The heat sink can only dissipate so much heat so fast.


Should you choose to repaste, (which does not void the warranty in the USA), you can also add 0.5mm thermal pads to the CPU package around the die itself. The green part isn't particularly thermally conductive, but since all of the heat comes from the bottom of the CPU die, (pushing just as much heat into the surrounding area which is not in contact with the heat sink), it could help to a small degree.

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With the Loadline at 180, when under full load, the voltage is still jumping around, and when it jumps to the higher end, the temperature raises a little.

This is the reason why keeping it at a lower value.

 

Its gonna do that regardless of what the LLC is set to. The more conservative the Load Line is however, the more efficiently the VRMs work, creating less net heat.

I imagine the workaround would be turning off speed shift, speed step, possibly race-to-halt, adaptive voltage and locking a constant voltage and cpu multiplier at 3.9GHz or below on all cores. The laptop would use slightly more power at idle, but the VRMs would have drastically less work to do, increasing efficiency, and reducing the overall load on the heatsink.

I may have to try this when time allows.

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Well, I finally had time to try a bunch of stuff out and the results were surprising to say the least.

TLDR: The only things that make a significant difference are setting AC/DC Load Line to "1" and undervolting via Throttlestop or XTU.

First I tried various combinations of locking 3.9GHz and turning off Speed Step, Race to Halt, LLC, Speed Shift, turning off Energy Efficient Turbo and Adaptive Voltage. None of them made a noticable difference.

According to HWinfo64, setting AC/DC Load Line to "1" somehow allows the CPU to run cool enough that it turbos up to 3.5GHz and holds there in the low to mid 80's (except for core 2 on my unit, which hits 90). At the stock setting of 180, turbo throttles back to 3.2-3.1GHz at the same temps. LLC has no effect on this.

LLC override does however show signs of working as expected when AC/DC Load Line is at the stock setting. At idle, with this set to -2100 mOhms, the VRM pumps as much as 1.38V @3.9GHz. Set to +100 mOhms, idle voltage at 3.9GHz sits at 1.125-1.18V. Granted, one would really need an oscilloscope to measure this accurately, but we're not overclocking the CPU, so there's no reason to be concerned about unsafe voltage spikes. No matter what settings I changed, the 8750H needs 1.125-1.18V to run at 3.9GHz (without undervolting).

Temperature-wise, my experiments show that you will always be sitting at 80-86C under turbo conditions, possibly with one core at 90C. The only thing that changes is the CPU speed. At stock settings, that turbo caps out at 3.2ish GHz. AC/DC Load Line set to "1" allows the CPU to turbo up to 3
4-3.5 GHz before throttling at the same temps. AC/DC Load Line at "1" with a -100 undervolt has the CPU turboing up to 3.8-3.9 before the short power max kicks in. The IMON Slope /Offset tweak fixes this by underreporting the amount of power being consumed.

Essentially, there is no way to keep the 8750H (and presumably the 9750 as well) from throttling in a thin and light laptop. You will ALWAYS sit in the 80's unless you limit the turbo speed to whatever keeps you at the temp you want. The tweaks mentioned in this thread won't change your temps, only the frequency at which the CPU consistantly turbos to at those temps.


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Does "DC Loadline Override" (in the same section) change the voltages/temps in any noticeable way?
Default value is 2.1 mOhms (2100 uOhm), which according to the Intel specification sheet, is the default *VRM loadline* (aka loadline calibration) for 6 and 4 core CFL processors.

What happens if you change this to 800 uOhm (0.8 mOhms)? If this controls loadline calibration, this is the same as using Level 5 LLC on an Asus desktop motherboard, or "High" on a Gigabyte board.

Notice, VID will not change if you change this. VID is based on AC and DC Loadlines, and DC Loadline Override should not be the same thing as DC Loadline (DC Loadline in the IA VR settings only affects CPU VID reporting--aka power measurements).

You will need to monitor temps to see if this changes anything. Do not set it to 0 or -100 or 100 under any circumstances however.

 

No. Unlike a K-series overclockable desktop cpu, we cannot lock all cores to max turbo, let alone an overclock. So the 8750H comes nowhere near dangerous levels of voltage. There's obviously no point to overvolting, so the voltage spike associated with high LLC values that I wrote about a few posts up is essentially irrelevant.

I spent a couple hours on this today, testing +100, 0, -100, -1000 and -2100 while capping boost at 3.9GHz to prevent shoving dangerous levels of voltage into the CPU. The highest voltage I saw was 1.38V at "idle" ,with -2100 LLC and stock AC/DC Load Line. Confirming that there's no real difference when it comes to temperature. This aligns with the purpose of LLC, which is to stabilize voltage input under load for overclocked CPUs. Temps remained at 90C on core 2, with all others between 80 and 85C

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As you have already seen it yourself in your test. Lowering the temperature doesn't necessary mean it actually brings the whole temperature down, it's to squeeze out extra performance from the limited temperature range.

There are still ways to achieve 3.9GHz all cores in a thin and light laptop, LM is one, increasing the temperature limit is one, adding more heat pipes and direct to the heat fin or fan cover is one (if there's enough space), it's up to the user.

 

Hey guys.

OK, so I overclocked RAM - I have been set everything in BIOS according to guide and BIOS screenshot.

Do you think that results are okay? I didn't notice any crashes. Here are links, as I can't add images using forum tool:

Aida: https://zapodaj.net/0a35a5af01d38.png.html
CPU-Z: https://zapodaj.net/62bdde347a27c.png.html

 

Reboot the system and run AIDA before running any program that uses the dGPU, you should see the full speed of the 3467MHz.

 

I'm not home now. I will check it later after fresh Win Start.

Could you tell me what dGPU Is?

 

Discrete Gpu.

NVIDIA GPU in your case.

If you want to see how your RAM speed performs, do not launch any game / application that uses your NVIDIA GPU before running AIDA memory test.

You should see nearly 48GB/s on your read speed.

Your latency is fine.

But you should be able to see a lower latency than that with all program closed, including the anti-virus program.

 

I will do this test later on day with closed apps.

But this test is not 100% accuracy, as, honestly, all these apps run in the background in daily basis and we don't close them just to see full RAM potencial.

 

Also bench with 3.9GHz @ 6 cores, you will see some improvement.

 

I tried but there is a temps limit - 95°C is not acceptable.

At @3,6 I have 85°C what is okay.

 

No I mean do 3.9GHz for 6 cores when only running the AIDA memory bench just to see the highest result. The AIDA memory bench doesn't stress the CPU.

 

Update on this issue.
The solution was to flash the original bios: E16Q4IMS.107
You can find it @ http://sk3tch.com/files/notebookreview/gs65_8sg/bios/E16Q4IMS.107.zip

 

Little OT:

Do you guys know if adding GTX 1070 Core Voltage (%) will give me noticible boost on GE73?

It is currently UVed to 0.875 which is +201 on Core Clock which gave me 1810 MHz under full load.

Or are there any BIOS settings to unlock GPU TDP? I saw 1070 OCed to 2000 MHz (not sure if it wasn't fake) while mine's max is 1810 with occasionally drops to 1750 MHz in Metro Exodus.

 

It's vbios related, nothing to do with the bios, to flash the modified vbios back into the vbios chip you'll need a hardware programmer like Skypro.

If you are interested in modifying the vbios TDP check this thread out:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/mobile-pascal-tdp-tweaker-update-and-feedback-thread.806161/

 

After following the tutorial, I managed to do almost everything, excepct disable the SGX option on the bios, since that option does not even appear on my Lenovo Legion Y530-1060 and the result were...interesting.

On performance mode, connected to the power, the TSBench gave me little to no improvement. But the interesting part is when I change to battery mode.

On battery mode I have a undervolt of -140 mV, the procressor is capped at 40%, I changed the C-states in TS to C8, but the core do not seem to chage into said parking state. Not sure if it's some program/drive that's ruining it on my laptop. Nevertheless, 8 out of the 12 threads usually park alright, with the remaining 4 doing the work.

And that's when I noticed something. With everything close, except TS, the processor does not go bellow 11W, when before following this tutorial the processor would easily go below 1 W.

Does anyone know what's going on?

 

Forgot to ask. my task manager now seems to be bugged.
It doest not change the speed from 0.79 Ghz, altough TS and AIDA still report fine

 

Not sure about this, Lenovo's software could have been messing with it, about your Lenovo, did you flash a modded bios onto yours? By software flasher or hardware flasher?

And yes the performance monitor in the task manager won't report correctly, but other software can.

 

Nope. It's the latest BIOS from the Lenovo website itself!

 

Wow so Lenovo allows users to change that many options now? Even the IMON tweak and Overclocking menu can be done too?

 

Unfortunately no. The overclock menu is grayed out and I didn't find anything IMON, although I admit that I'm not quite sure of what I was looking for.
The other tweaks you had in the tutorial though, I was able to change, apart from the SGX too

PS: Did you say modded BIOS? I had no idea that was a thing. Know were I can find some for my Lenovo?