The Official MSI GT73VR Owners and Discussions Lounge

Thanks a lot hmscott! Finally some peace of mind. I had the "connected, but not charging" error on my old Alienware and it was a real problem, so was afraid I ran into some major issue here as well.

Thanks for the V-sync work around tip as well.

Silly me, I got excited and bought Forza Horizon 3 Ultimate Edition for a pile of gold. Food is overrated anyway.. but the game won't even launch. GG Microsoft. Anyone else with a GT73 having trouble with Forza?

EDIT: Found a sollution online if anyone has the same issue, turn off mic permission for Forza 3 in Windows Privacy settings and the game runs. Performance doesn't seem great though. I see a lot of stuttering, hopefully they will patch it later.

 

No that's not strictly true. G-sync works below the monitor refresh rate so anything below 120 fps. You do not need V-sync for that, however G-sync will not cap or lock the fps. So if you go above 120 you will get screen tearing.

So the best thing to do is enable G-sync and V-sync in the NVidia control panel and DISABLE v-sync in game. This way you'll get the buttery smooth performance you want and no tearing. Now if your fps hits 120 you may experience input lag so you can select V-sync 'Fast' instead of 'On' or cap your fps to 119.

Don't install the killer drivers from their website just please don't rofl. They're always so bad, just stick with the generic ones Windows provides and enjoy never having to deal with disconnects, dropped packets ever again.

 

You're not going to see a Dual GTX 1080 SLI in this laptop. Could you fit another card in? Yeah you probably could but here's what's going to happen.

1. You'll need 2x power adapters. The card is rated at 165W so 2 of them means 330W right there for the GPUs alone, + 45W for the CPU + everything else. The standard 1080 one only comes with 1 adapter.

2. Enjoy burning a hole in your table. GPU Boost 3 (on auto fans) will push the single GTX 1080 to 80C, around 78C the fan kicks up to high and the temperatures stabilize around 75-78. Sure you can enable the turbo boost General Electric GE90 jet engine mode and that will drop your temps to 65C but its also loud as all hell.

2 GTX 1080s? Let's just say you'll save a ton of money on grilling food! Just put some chicken next to the exhausts and voila in a couple of minutes you'll be enjoying 4k gaming with some delicious chicken!

You can see it from the cooling solution alone, the GTX 1070 SLI laptop has 9 total heatpipes for both GPUs (one has 5, one has 4). The single gtx 1080 laptop? It has 7/8 (can't remember) for the one GPU. There's no space in the chassis for them to dump an additional 7-8 heatpipes for the second GPU.

 

GTX 980M - 165W
GTX 1080 - 180W
The system needs a lot of power too so it won't be enough unless there's an even higher power adapter out there.

 

The desktop GTX 1080 requires 180W. The notebook one is 165W I believe, at least that's what notebookcheck says:

http://www.notebookcheck.net/NVIDIA-GeForce-GTX-1080-Laptop.171212.0.html

 

It was a theory and you don't need to insert another card in GT73VR RF, all you need is swap the Dual GTX 1070 SLI in GT73VR RE with GTX 1080s, you have the power you need, 660w adopter and heatsink to cover the 2nd card but of course the heat will be the main issue and Titan Cooler is not designed to handle the heat of Dual GTX 1080 and it has already been discussed.

I wasn't talking about to add or swap cards right now but may be down the road in future MSI release an upgrade kit for both

GT73VR RE model with option to swap card with GTX 1080 and new redesigned Titan Cooler

GT73VR RF model with option to add another card and new adopter and new redesigned Titan Cooler.

Who knows MSI will release upgrade kit, it's more money for them and more power for us.

 

There's no way for them to redesign the cooling system. The chassis is currently quite full.

The single 1080 has 7 heatpipes and it still gets hot. I mean look at the GT83VR, it has 15 (holy ****) heatpipes and 3 fans. That thing still gets quite hot with dual 1080s. The GT73 simply doesn't have the space to put in a bigger cooling solution. Your redesigned cooling solution will have to be some external portable air conditioning unit permanently attached to the bottom of your laptop.

Will MSI release an upgrade kit? Yeah they probably will. Will they ever sell an SLI 1080 17 or recommend it? I highly highly doubt it.

 

Yes probably, they will, reason nvidia released GTX 1080 Titan Card, 12GB RAM and more power hungry, so what will MSI do

First question, Will they release laptop with GTX 1080 Titan
If they do Second question, will they put it in GT83VR or will they consider GT73VR series too
If they do, how they will handle the heat when Cooler Titan is struggling to handle the heat in GT73VR RE with Dual GTX 1070 SLI, and GT83VR with Dual GTX 1080 SLI
or will MSI release new lineup with GTX 1080 Titan may be GT93VR more weight, more thick
or will they redesign their Cooler Titan

So release of GTX 1080 Titan makes me think what MSI will bring next and what they will offer to GT73 & GT83 lineup.

 

That might be true right now, but it's rarely true. The MS drivers aren't magic, they are old, and the new drivers on Killer are currently in the midst of getting debugged.

Find a good driver from the Killer site from a few revs back, and stay with it until the newest versions are stable again.

Windows 10 is the real problem here, Killer keeps fixing the bugs, and MS keeps changing things.

If you have a good driver from MS, get the version number and write it down, when MS updates to a newer version that breaks, you will be happy to know the version number of the one that worked, so you can download it from Killer

 

For those of you thinking MSI will offer GPU upgrade kits for the GT73VR / GT83VR, read this thread - all 1274 posts - and weep.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...rade-discussion.795236/page-128#post-10348522

 

IMO GT73 and GT83 are really nice laptops, but don't buy it if you expect GPU upgrades...

 

MS doesn't use drivers from killer. They use the generic Qualcomm ones.

Killer networking cards are nothing more than rebadged Qualcomm Atheros chips with some bling bling (and by bling bling I mean horse manure) thrown on. So far in 1 1/2 years of using Win10 I've not had a single issue with the drivers from MS or the Qualcomm website. I just wish Qualcomm would make their drivers available on their website so I could use the newer ones.

And well I just wish OEMs would stop using killer networking, just go with Intel or Broadcom and get rid of all this hassle.

Their cards cost more than the competition, and their drivers are garbage. Sorry I find it unacceptable that I have to go to their website and check a whole bunch of drivers to find one that isn't totally ****. They've been around for years now and they still can't even fix the DPC latency issues their ****ty drivers cause. But yet somehow Qualcomm, Intel, Broadcomm don't seem to have that issue (most of the time, occasionally they have put out crap drivers too).

 

which one is better?

Killer Wireless-AC N1535 2.4Ghz/5.0Ghz Dual-Band 300/867 Mbps + Bluetooth 4.1
Intel Wireless-AC 8260 802.11 2.4Ghz/5.0Ghz Dual-Band 300/867 Mbps + Bluetooth 4.1 / WiDi

 

During the Intel 7260 era, what you are angry about - what you are saying - was said of Intel and the 7260 and the Intel Wifi Chipset history leading up to it.

The Killer 1202 was out then, with the 1525 replacing it, and all was right in the Killer Wifi world.

Intel came out with the 8260 and for once Intel isn't the butt of all the jokes about Intel's complete and utter inability to make their drivers work.

Then the 1535 came out, no problem, Windows 10 came out - problems, finally Killer fixed a memory leak and the disconnects stopped, for months - quite a while - and now after the Windows Anniversary Update the problems are back.

It's Windows 10 that's causing the problem for lots of driver writers, Killer is caught up in that.

It's frustrating, but wishing for them to go away now, Intel to go away before, and some other Wifi chipset maker to go away later leaves the Wifi field empty of anyone.

The driver versions can be matched up, look at the component version numbers, not the Suite number.

If it's really bothering you spend $50 and get an older Wifi USB dongle, and use that until Windows 10 stabilizes - if ever.

And, try to have fun, gaming is fun.

 

I was able to remove the Killer software and my wireless is still laggy. I'm going to try a support ticket with MSI tomorrow, I just don't have the patients to deal with this slow wireless today.

Before I uninstalled Dragon center I got the warning that the update had failed, I wonder if this update is failing because of the wireless issue and could be causing the problems with it.

I was wondering if there is a way to get MSI afterburner to control the fans on the laptop, arethe fan controls greayed out because its a beta version or because its a laptop?


EDIT
I just put in a ticket, we will see what they say.

On another note, I noticed after and hour session in TW3 that the CPU stayed at 2.7, Isn't there supposed to be turbo boost or something?

 

If there isn't a heat issue, then it's the CPU load balancing.

Are you on the Windows High Performance Power Plan? Do you have CPU utilization set to 100%/100% in the Advanced settings for the High Performance Plan?

Unless you are on the High Performance Power Plan with CPU utilization at 100%/100%, the CPU will only clock as high as needed for the load, and downclock when not needed, which will look like the CPU is hovering around a clock rate under it's maximum capable boost frequency.

There is no real reason to run the High Performance Power plan all the time. I only enable it for benchmarks, when I am trying to squeeze out the most performance.

Everything else I do on the Balanced Power plan, with CPU utilization set to 0%/100%, so the CPU can downclock and cool down between demanding CPU load.

If you are gaming and see the CPU at 2.7ghz, it's likely because that's all that's needed for the demands of that game. It's a benefit to let the CPU downclock to run cooler.

If you run the same game on High Performance 100%/100% you will run hotter, and maybe even thermal throttle if the CPU can cool down - or the fans will run faster and make more noise - with little performance improvement in the game - considering it's running fine at 2.7ghz

 

Great information!

I don't know what settings I have in windows 10 yet. Whats clear is that I have to do a bit more homework. lol.

I decided to reload Dragon Center without Afterburner to see if that would work. I was able to play TW3 without any problems. I'm also using fraps for in game FPS and real temp for max temp info. I have the other information beamed to my phone for reference. I don't think my FPS dropped below 70 the entire time so I'm happy with the performance and will look to tweak the CPU when i get a chance to read up on it.

Whats interesting is that when I installed Dragon center my profiles were saved somehow.

 

Yeah, that's why I use a uninstaller program like iobit uninstaller to track down all the cruft left by applications I want to permanently remove, you'd be surprised how much stuff gets left behind after the application uninstaller completes the uninstall.

Dragon Center is managing the Windows Power Plans, CPU OC and GPU OC, and fans, so when you installed it it set things up as you left it, I am assuming using the "Sport" or "Performance" profile - or whatever its called

It's really better to have manual control of all this through Windows Power Plan, XTU for CPU, or ThrottleStop if that's not overwhelming for you, and MSI Afterburner.

I've since heard that MSI AB is in development for Pascal, so it might be better to use the Evga PrecisionX tool instead, but that likely will flip back and forth between the two as they progress toward release and full Pascal support.

You can download Rivatuner (RTSS) by itself for Frame limiter and On Screen Display of info - but check the PrecisionX tool for it's version of those features too.

Please keep reporting what you find, as it will help others to figure things out too, and may prompt them to come up with useful info too

 

I just decided to try my connection with online gaming, I played BF4 and connected to a server that had 30 ping and experienced no lag. So why is browsing the internet laggish when BF4 isn't?

 

Maybe it isn't the Wifi?

That's why I always suggest trying ethernet to see if the problem goes away. Just plug in to the router for a quick test.

Is it with all browsers?

If you are using Firefox, try creating a fresh Profile with no extensions or settings changes, and see if that fixes the lag/snag problem.

It can be flash ads hosing things up, too many active tabs, it all plays a part.

Try using an extension for Firefox/Chrome like "The Great Suspender" that times out tabs and makes them inactive when you are in another tab.

And uBlock Origin + Privacy Badger + noScript to cut out all the crap that websites load down our browsing with - that can cause DNS lookups to delay redraws until resolved.

Speaking of DNS lookups, that can be it too. Try using a local DNS service directly on your laptop instead of using your router as the intermediary.

Google DNS is a quick setup to test, Primary 8.8.8.8 Secondary 8.8.4.4
https://developers.google.com/speed/public-dns/docs/using

You can get programs that will reach out through your router and find the quickest responding local DNS servers for your region as well.

Glad to hear the Wifi isn't the problem; try the ethernet and see if the browser lags changes.

 

When I was at my house I had both Wifi and Ethernet hooked up, I forget what it was called but it was supposed to use the faster connection, that could have masked an wifi issue. Then I came down to my crash pad and used the wireless,that where I lost the whole connection several times. Yesterday I was on a Hotel in Birmingham UK and I was experiencing issues with both Firefox and MS Edge. Now I'm back in the crash pad having the issues I just posted about. This was never an issue with my other laptop, I have the exact same routine, Maybe I'll see what setting I had on that machine and try to watch them. I will also explore all theses options tomorrow and let you know if any of them work.

Thanks again.

 

Try just one network connection at a time, disable the other one, that's a basic good practice to debug / isolate the problem - don't play with the network load balancing stuff right now, just get a stable single path of connectivity working.

The software might be trying to multi-home the packets out both interfaces, and somehow screwing it up - it's all going through the same router - wifi and ethernet are going to the same router - so there is no advantage to enabling wifi while still on ethernet.

Use one or the other, Wifi *or* Ethernet, until you are sure both are stable. Then read up on and completely understand the Doubleshot stuff

 

The next time someone has the bottom cover off, can you please see if there are any part numbers or identification labels on the cpu or gpu fan? Curious if these fans can be ordered as replacement parts.

 

Can any body tell whats the Brand Name of;

RAM Modules
512GB PCIe NVMe Drive

in MSI GT73VR Titan Pro 202

If anyone wants to upgrade the Stock Configuration, they know what they are upgrading from.

Thanks

 

It seems that my problems were caused by my browser. I had never experienced this on any of my other machines so it really didn't occur to me. When I researched creating a new profile in Firefox I ran across a recommendation to refresh Firefox first, which I did, and it seemed to fix all the issues I was having. I was able to stream a video broadcast and download files at the same time at the speed I'm accustomed to. Then I rebooted the machine and all the problems came back, I then refreshed again and added uBlock Origin + Privacy Badger + noScript. this seem to make everything much faster. Ill give it a try when I get to the UK tomorrow morning, I had an add blocker that would work somewhere in Europe, I can't remember where though. I'll post an update when I can.

 

I just made a few adjustments to try and get my OSD set up and it seems that fan speeds can't be shown or changed in MSI Afterburner, EVGA Precision or Rivatuner server as a stand alone. The option is greyed out. I think it has to do with the fans connections.



http://forum.notebookreview.com/att...5/?temp_hash=d74843034c9efbb7a590ea604a4808b9

 

Ram: Kingston
NVMe: Samsung PM951 (the OEM version of the 950 pro)

 

Where does the 2nd 1070 actually rest?

 

See internals at 5:25

 

My GT73VR updated to the anniversary edition of windows yesterday and it screwed up my audio. MSI has new downloads for Nahimic and audio driver if you weren't aware. https://us.msi.com/Laptop/support/GT73VR-TITAN-6th-Gen-GTX-1070.html#down-driver&Win10 64

 

So after some more playing around I think the MSI auto fans turn on a bit too late. This means in some games you get a little bit of pulsing as the GPU hits 78C and the fans hit 79% of their max RPM.

The following fan settings allow me to game comfortably with the GPU staying around 60-70 (with it very rarely going upto 73), and the CPU staying between 40-50 at 3.8ghz across all 4 cores (giving you plenty of additional OC headroom).

CPU: 20%, 20%, 34%, 44%, 55%, 79%
GPU: 20%, 20%, 40%, 47%, 55%, 79%

Now there is a slight downside in that the CPU fans turns on a bit too early but I can't seem to adjust that setting point so you can play around with it as you wish. Yes this means while you're gaming both fans will be on and audible but only at about 47% of their max RPM which isn't too bad. I find it far less annoying than the bottom of my laptop getting hot and then the pulsing as the fans switch between 55% and 79% based on temperature.

Alternatively you can keep the default settings as auto and then use the profile shortcut for dragon center to ramp up the fans to that setting.

 

Hey guys, i have to issues with my MSI GT73VR.

First is problem with icc calibration profile. I uninstall MSI True Color and i want to use my calibration profile. Every this is ok, it's work but... i have make it default in win10 configuration. When system just start i see this profile is aplied, but after few seconds it's angain change to this default orginal profile without calibration. Again, i go to configuration and i activate my profile, it's now is on, but i go to Heroes of the Storm - profil is on, but if i just alt+tab game this orginal profile without calibration is again active IN GAME only... i have to restart computer to again get profile calibraten in game... Maybe do u have some solution for that. The best option for me is just to have this calibratet profile all time.

Second is difference in temperature of CPU. Core 0 and core 2 have about +10 degress more than core 1 and core 3... I have changing tim 2 times, base of heatsink seems to be good and very flat, also i used methon on smal belt. I used Prolimatech PK3 also... Ofc i tried to turn the screws evenly. But it dosnt help as we can see... What to do, some ideas?

 

Hey guys now that some of you have this laptop I was wondering how you liked it.
I have an msi 1762 with a 680m. I don't know if I should upgrade now to a 1070 or wait for volta? The reason I ask is although pascal performs pretty well now in DX12 it does not get the boost amd does.

 

I'm really enjoying mine, the gaming performance is a huge step from my MSI GT70, weather or not to wait is a personal decision. I guess if you are playing games you like now then maybe waiting is a good idea but If you want to play most modern games maxed out at 1080p now then this laptop wont disappoint you.

 

What were the measurements with the stock paste? Was there a large core temperature differential then too?

A similar thing happened to an NBR member (GT80S), but his vendor had it happen when they repasted with CLU.

Out of the box the temps across all 4 cores stayed the same, idle and load. After retrying to re-paste with CLU 3x, always getting a (single) hot core, they gave up and sent him another unit - without re-pasting.

Same great temps as the first unit before it was re-pasted...

 

My didn't have good temps before re-past. It was http://i.imgur.com/TU7NQH9.jpg . I wanted to repast with CLU, but afert what u wrote i have doubts... For me it's seams to bad heatsing presure on the core.
So agian, this second unit have good temps before repast and was simillar through all 4 cores, and after aplying CLU there was some core/cores hotter?

 

No, re-read what I said.

The first one had good temps before re-pasting, all 4 cores within a degree or two, then after re-pasting with CLU 10+ C hot core - just one core.

Same core stayed hot during 2 more CLU re-pastings - actually I think the 3rd/4th time they tried IC7. Then the vendor gave up.

They unboxed another GT80S and tested it, had same good temps idle and load, all 4 cores only a couple of degree's apart, and asked if the new owner wanted it re-pasted, and he said "no!!".

Sooooo.... you might have a bad CPU... I've had 2 that had hot cores that I needed to swap, but they were LGA - so I just swapped in a new CPU.

Sorry to hear this, I would contact the vendor and let them know about the hot core and how you tried to fix it (they can tell you repasted, no sense not being up front), and ask for another one to be shipped.

This time, don't re-paste for a year

 

Ok, u explain me well this time so i understand everything . Thanks.
In my country here, i don't think is possibility to change the machine becouse have one or two cores hotter... vendor will not go for this.
But i think i found what is the reason. Look on the factory tim. And look on the thermal pad, there is one pad on another, i didnt took off this, maybe it cause the pressure in that area is not enought and that cause core 0 and core 2 to be warmer?
Foto http://imgur.com/pDpKqRd

 

I don't think so... the core is sealed in a solid ingot of ceramic and aluminum... I would return it. It was doing the same thing before re-pasting, and still doing it now, it's not gonna improve.

And, yes, that is exactly a good reason to return it, 10+C is too much of a differential, you won't be able to run at full performance, two cores will aways thermal throttle before the others even get warm.

It's unacceptable, DOA. Give it back

At least for next time, you know it's not fixable - I went through the same thing the first time it happened to me - no amount of futzing around would improve it.

 

You need to use Color Profile Keeper or Color Sustainer. Full screen games tend to use their own gamma profile and disregard the windows settings which will change the color profile.

Also with the core temperature difference is that at idle or under load? Idle that's not good. Under load (depending on the type of load) its fairly normal. CPU load isn't always spread very evenly so sometimes some cores can have different temperatures.

I like it and I don't like it haha. Performance is amazing, it does get hot but that's expected so I keep my fans on a little bit of a higher setting and that for the most part mitigates it. I do wish there was a little bit more thermal protection around the heatsink area because that part tends to get really hot but not a big deal.

My single biggest annoyance with this laptop is the software. Dragon Center just isn't very good. I can use XTU to set my overclock settings and that's all fine but the only program I've found to modify fan tables is dragon center and that thing just refuses to work correctly 99% of the time.

Set a fan profile, set an overlock profile. Great! Then I restart, woohoo settings still work! Excellent. Another restart, fan profile is back to auto....so now I have to sit there and reapply my profile 3 times before it decides to want to use it.

Then everytime I restart dragon center decides that I need to use the high performance power plan...no I want balanced. I don't need all 4 of my cores at 3.8ghz 24/7 its pointless...just let me set a power plan that I want and STICK WITH IT. STOP OVERRIDING MY SETTING CHOICES.

Seriously if they just gave us more options in the BIOS to control fan profiles like they do for their desktop motherboards and/or there's another program that can control fan settings, I would love this laptop but it's just those things that are really starting to annoy me.

 

I used Color Profile Keeper, it didn't work fine for me, but i will try Color Sustainer, thanks .

This difference in temp of cores is only under very hard load, in idle and normaln usage is quite similar...

 

Yeah color profile settings is annoying.

Make sure in CPK you select the lock profile option. Games / dragon center will still override the profile but CPK will reapply it as needed.

Do you have an overclock setting applied? What I've found is when I run the CPU at a stock setting then some cores will be significantly hotter than other cores. Sometimes as much as 10C. However with a 4core overclock to where all cores are running at the same boost clock (3.6ghz / 3.8ghz) then the temperatures stay fairly even (max difference between cores is 4C).

I believe it has something to do with the way turbo boost ramps up certain cores. Try OCing to 3.6ghz across all 4 cores and see what the temps are. If you're still seeing a 10C difference then RMA the laptop, that's not normal at all.

 

Yes, i have overclocked, and at oc and at normal speed is difference between cores, and always betwen core 0, core 2 and colder core 1 and 3.

 

Yeah that shouldn't be normal. A few degrees is normal, 10C on 2 cores is not.

One last thing you can try is spreading the paste vs the pea / line method. That helped me reduce my temps a little bit and dropped my fluctuation down to at most 4C. The pressure from the heatsink doesn't seem to be applied evenly so with the pea method the pastes aren't getting spread out as it should.

But in your case I don't see that helping, but its worth a shot. Maybe it'll work, maybe not.

 

Yep i will try this also. The next thing is i have given insulating tape one the bottom of the radiator of cpu, to stop air flowing below of radiator, but now i think it's quite thick and maybe it's cause to tilt the whole radiator and plate of the heatsing. It's make sens becouse this core 0 and core 2 is on this site witch could be it that situation on lower pressure. And if this site with core 1 and 3 have better pressure it can have lower temps...

 

Aha, I give you MSI Silent Option: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=255972.0

It's designed for the MSI GT72 but it works perfectly on the 73VR. Applies the setting correctly with every restart.

No longer have to use dragon center woohooo!

 

I agree with this 100%. I would love to use Afterburner or EVGA precision for my fan profiles. I noticed the profiles wouldn't load when I was having issues with my wireless and was getting a dragon center update warning, after I resolved theses issues it's been loading my profiles nicely.

 

Guys, coollab makes job for me, now temps look realy good . This is after prime95 on small FFTs and with OC 4.1Ghz.
pic - http://imgur.com/OkfnVz1

 

It seems that Dragon Center has actually a Problem with the Setting of CPU Fan. Cause i have only 5 Bars to Setup and the First of that has a issue with the Numbers. When i pull up the bar, the number get weird. For me it's not Bad, cause all Fan bar's Works as i wish. I think MSI Must bugfixed the Software. Maybe it's an issue with BIOS or EC. The US Version of the GT73 has a another Version out of Box as my Europe Version does. But all in all the Laptop is Great. The best i ever had. The 1070 burn the Games to ash

 

Yeah Dragon Center is just buggy all around, really bad idea to make that the default control center of their flagship 17" laptop haha.

There are spelling mistakes, weird design decisions, things that don't work correctly. It just feels completely rushed out the door to meet a deadline without any consideration of user experience.