*** The Official MSI GS65 Stealth Owners and Discussions Lounge ***

Once you get it, when you first turn it on and get the initial Windows 10 Setup Wizard, it will prompt you to connect to a Wireless Network, click on SKIP on the bottom right otherwise you will be forced to login with a Microsoft account which I strongly advice against.


Also, when it prompts you to enter a password, leave the blank for now as during our tweaking session, we will need to reboot a lot and that will just slow us down.


First thing I want you to do to save us time is to right click on your start menu button, then choose SYSTEM, from there, hit Rename This PC and choose a name for your computer. (ie. I name mine TITAN). The name should be in capital letter. Some of the tweaks are tied to the PC name and thus, you want to name it properly from the get go rather than keeping the default random name which Windows assigns it ( DESKTOP-999-BLABLABLA)


Next, go to PC Settings > Update & Security > Windows Update and perform all the Windows updates. After rebooting, check for updates again just to make sure there aren’t any more updates


The moment you are in Windows, go ahead and do all the Windows updates which will take a long time, then download and install TeamViewer then run it, it will give you an ID/Password which you could pass on to me via a PM so I can connect to you.


You won't be able to PM me unless I PM you first so what you want to do is, when you get it, just tag me by using the @ sign then type my username right after it with no spaces and I will PM you then

 

You can perform undervolt at 1070 q-max how my CPU supports -190mv which makes me keep the temperature with a cooling cooler master base below 70º in cpu and gpu playing fallout 4

I'm thinking of putting 2x8 of memory instead of 1x16 some recommended bbb* option or it is better to leave the 16 and then put another 16

https://www.amazon.es/dp/B017UC3UEI...olid=2XAOVIEE0XVB4&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I am also thinking of a 970 pro of 512gb to be the main disc

Regarding the thermal putty here all recommend Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut I use to mx4 and silver 5 really worth it ??

Sorry for my bad english :S
*bbb in spanish bueno bonito barato, in english Good, pretty, cheap

 

You want to use 2 memory sticks for the dual channel memory, provides better performance. As far as Conductonaut, with those temperatures I would just leave it as is, I personally don't consider the risks of liquid metal worth it (Conductonaut) however it will drop your temperature even more!

 

Just a curious question. How come I'm seeing slightly lower temps (1-2 C) in my GPU when I increase Core Clock and Memory Clock in Afterburner as compared to the default settings?

 

Because you were already hitting the power limit at stock, the way the GPU keeps the TDP under the power limit is to lower the voltage, lowered voltage = lowered temperature.

 

Got my GS65 from HID a couple of weeks ago and have been so preoccupied with it, I forgot to post about it here. Thank you to @Donald@HIDevolution for answering all of my questions. I am loving this thing. I can't believe I was worried about the build quality; this is a solidly built machine.

I undervolted the CPU using ThrottleStop - this is my first time undervolting - and so far, so good. I'm averaging temps around 70 for both the CPU and GPU during my gaming sessions (mostly playing WOW at the moment). Blue screened a couple of times, but I think I've finally found a stable setting.

 

So the first time I repasted my GS65 with LM, I accidentally used cheap pharmacy q-tips to spread the LM which definitely left some fibers on my GPU. I realized I had just enough LM left so I went in there again and used completely fiber-free spreaders this time. Previously, I only used the included spreaders that came with my Conductonaut for my CPU so I wasn't expecting that big a change. I only switched to the cheap spreaders for my GPU because I felt I couldn't keep using the included ones (which probably wasn't true). BUT THIS TIME, using proper lint-free spreaders for everything, I saw a 6-7 C drop in my GPU temps. My CPU, as expected, stayed the same. What a heck of a difference the fibers made wow.

 

These work extremely well as Liquid metal spreaders.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q3BG6Y4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

Awesome! Will do

 

I'm picking up this notebook shortly and am planning on undervolting / adjusting the fans. Wanted to say thank all of you for the hard work on this device.

 

Is it possible to install the newest graphics drivers from Nvidia's website without editing hardware id's on the inf files? I was talking to someone that said they installed Nvidia drivers from the Geforce website without any problems or modding. However, when I try to install the same drivers I get an error stating, "this nvidia graphics driver is not compatible with this version of windows." My version of windows is updated and the same thing happens with a driver install through Geforce Experience.

 

The "notebook" 411.70 drivers installed just fine on my GT73VR.
I haven't tried the "Desktop" drivers, but in the past, I never had a problem with "desktop" drivers. I did not bother installing those buggy versions (398 or 397 something?) that were frying some video cards, would not install on any 1060 (desktop or laptop) and so on.

 

Sorry, I forgot that I never updated my system info since I switched from my Alienware. I've got a GS65 with the 1070 max q graphics card.

 

398 causes Photoshop to flicker if I use it with Nvidia Gpu. The problem disappears if I use Intel GPU. I hope the problem will be solved.

 

Hey guys, attached are the pictures for those who are interested in replacing their stock thermal pads.

As far as replacing the VRM pads that are 1.0mm with 0.5mm, it did not correct the temperature differentials between cores ( @Falkentyne), thanks for the suggestions, I thought it was worth a try. The only benefit I saw was a 2 degree average temperature drop, attached are screenshots of pre/post thermalpad replacements.


Do you guys think its worth me taking it apart again to undo the change from 1.0mm to 0.5mm pads on the VRMs nearest CPU? I'm worried since I changed it to 0.5mm pads that it is not making contact with the heatsink, what do you guys suggest? Also is there a temperature sensor for VRMs on this motherboard?

EDIT: (08/Feb/2019)
0.5mm Thermal Pad on VRM over the CPU die DO NOT make contact with HS.

Currently testing if removing them provides better contact of CPU die with HS in order to address Temperature differential.

https://www.reddit.com/r/MSILaptops/comments/9kutuc/msi_gs65_thermal_pad_replacement/

My Reddit Post

 

@iunlock wrote this guide in 2016, you can try bending the foot, but bend just a little, slightly raise the feet.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...ven-core-temps-due-to-uneven-heatsink.797477/

 

Did any one try the latest BIOS (.10E) and EC(.106)?

The BIOS release note says Improve the system stability.

The EC release note says Improve Fan Function.

Has anyone flashed these yet? Does the Fan ramp up quicker with this EC?

The only thing I'd complain about this laptop is the Fan ramping up so slowly, by the time the fan reached to the peak, the CPU temperature has already entered mid 80s.

I wanted to test these BIOS and EC myself, but I'm currently working aboard in the Philippines and I only brought the SD card flash drive with me, it comes in exFAT format and cannot be formatted to FAT32, and the Aptio flash in MSI BIOS doesn't see exFAT as a drive, also I don't want to flash from a NTFS file system, just to avoid those extra risks, so currently I'm out of options and could only wait until I get back home to test.

Edit: For some reason I spelled NTFS into NTSC.

 

As a point: you can fomat any drive as FAT/FAT32. What you can't do is do it with the tools Microsoft provide. They're hard-coded to use exFAT or NTFS for anything larger than 32GB. I think Partition Wizard can do it (I haven't used PW in years). I typically just use mkfs.vfat on a Linux box or a live gparted image in VirtualBox.

 

Good to know that, I thought it was the because of the SD card to USB converter.

Edit: By the way, @ratinox how does the Intel Optane memory perform versus Gen3 x4 NVME? Is it significantly faster?

 

Yes. Mine is a small cache for rotating rust and the 860 is SATA so I can't do direct comparisons on my own system. My employer's performance group has a handful of servers with a range of Optane drives and some with enterprise Samsung NVMe (the ones that cost $12K+). The Optane drives are always at least 50-150% faster than the Samsung drives depending on the workloads.

 

Hello guys, had a quick question.

Would this work in Slot 1
Corsair CSSD-F120GBMP300 Force Series MP300 120GB NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD Network Attached Storage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D9C2WPV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YwsTBb1HYB8Z1

It's PCIe NVMe m.2 Gen 3 x 2.

I would place this in slot 1 and pass my 512 gb PCIe NVMe that came with the laptop to Slot 2.

Would this work?

i am not sure if the fact that it's Gen 3 x 2 would make it incompatible.

 

@Ultra Male

Hi Ultra Male. I have had my laptop for some time now, and i have had blue screens of death in no pattern what so ever. I have undervolted normalle at around -140mV on cache and CPU. Since i know you tweak, maybe you could help configuring these settings, as i know you help people with it. (Or maybe even help finding the problem, so i can fix it somehow :/)

Btw, i hope it doesn't matter that i do have a microsoft account connected.

 

Undervolt of -140mV? Off Course you will have Blue Screens of death all over the place!

Set your undervolt to -50mV then see if you get the BSODs

And don't confuse me tweaking HIDevolution Gaming Team Members machines with me doing this for everyone. That's only for HIDevolution Gaming Team Members and it is NOT a one on one troubleshooting sessions, it's just the tweaks.

 

Ok, I still appreciate the help you want to provide. I will try and see what happens.

Is there anything else there's to be done? I can do mostly everything myself, if I'm just told how to or what to do.
F.x. Intel GPU, is that undervoltable, and what do most get theirs to without going balls to the walls?

I'd be thankful for your tweaking-knowledge .

 

Does you guys think that running Windows 10 LTSB is throttling my laptop's performance? I'm getting a Firestrike score of approximately 13500 after applying a stable undervolt of -.180 mV, with my cores at 41/41/40/40/39/39, +200 clock and +600 memory for my dGPU in Afterburner. I think I actually have quite a bit of legroom for thermals as my CPU maxes out at 70 C and my GPU at 73 C under synthetic load. Would I see a noticeable difference if just use regular Windows 10?

 

Your firestrike scores are great. If it lets you, keep tweaking, seems you may have hit the silicon lottery. Did you repaste? If so with what?

 

Yeah, I spent like 30 minutes carefully repasting with Conductonaut to get it as thin as possible. I wonder if I the people getting 14000+ Firestrike scores are doing something that has to do with unlocking their BIOS.

 

Does anyone know whether integrated or dedicated graphics handles output through the displayport? With my 4k monitor connected to DP, my youtube videos drop a lot of frames.

 

Can you post the link to your result?

Maybe we can give you a more clear direction where is Throttling.

The normal performance of Physic score should be 16000+ on 41/41/40/40/39/39

And with the normal OC'd to Core +200 / Mem +600, the Graphic score should be between 16050~16500,

If the temperature limit is raised.

And the BIOS is tweaked to the point the CPU is reporting fault TDP value so the 45W TDP limit isn't kicking in.

And also if the RAM is OC'd.

And also if C state is set to off or to C1.

And also if the SpeedShift EPP is set to 0 in ThrottleStop and 0% in Windows Power Option.

And the most important thing is that you get lucky with the GPU TDP limit not winning and suppressing every time your GPU TDP goes above limit.

And not having any unnecessary software like Anti-virus / Line / Skype / MSI True Color / Killer Control Center running at the time of benching (We can always reload them after benching).

With the above cleared.

You should get something like this:

https://www.3dmark.com/fs/16548411

 

My firestrike results https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/29084219

afterburner + throttlestop https://imgur.com/a/szyA1WP

 

Alright.

Your physic score is fine.

But with +212/602 on the GPU.

You should be able to get to the 16000 zone for the graphic score zone even with 2400MHz on the RAM.

However you are already using faster RAM so which means your GPU is under performing.

Before we get down to the immediate fix.

Were you also running any other background processes while benching?

Edit: Oh and this is very important, what plan in the power option were you using?

 

Thanks for helping btw. I benched immediately after a restart. My OS is Windows 10 LTSB and I installed all the drivers available on MSI's webpage for this laptop. I then updated the Nvidia driver. I let processes like MSI SCM and MSI True Color run since they only took like 1 MB of RAM each. I guess my biggest RAM hogs at startup are Nvidia Share (60 MB), Antimalware Executeable (93 MB), Silent Option (22 MB), NVIDIA Container (22 MB). Everything else is usually 20 MB or less and takes less than 1% of the CPU.

Edit: I was using the High Performance power plan.

 

High Performance Power Plan is the correct plan to use, so no problem with that.

Exit MSI True Color and Anti-malware before bench.

But outside the Windows, there are some jobs to do.

Hopefully you can follow till the end, because there are lots to be done.

First of all, you need to unlock your BIOS, I'll PM you shortly.

Also reset all ThrottleStop undervolt settings back to 0, else you will get BSOD at launch of ThrottleStop, after the mod you can only undervolt up to maybe -50mV but you'll find the temperature result performs the same as previously when you were able to do -180mV.

The BIOS

Once the BIOS is unlocked, do the followings:

1. Go to Advanced > System Agent (SA) Configuration > Peg Port Configuration

Set ASPM to Disabled.

This should add another 300 points to the graphic score.

2. Go to Advanced > RC ACPI Settings

Just make sure Native ASPM is Disabled.

3. Go to Advanced > Power & Performance > CPU - Power Management Control

Set Intel Speed Shift Technology to Enabled.

This will enable Speed Shift in Windows.

4. Go to Advanced > Power & Performance > CPU - Power Management Control > View/Configure CPU Lock Options

Set CFG Lock to Disabled.

This will allow you to control the C state using ThrottleStop so you can use different C state in different profile.

5. Go to Advanced > Power & Performance > CPU - Power Management Control > CPU VR Settings > Core/IA VR Settings

Set AC Loadline between 5~10, this one decides how much the CPU should increase the voltage.
Set DC Loadline between 5~10, this one decides how much the CPU should decrease the voltage.
Set IMON Slope to 50
Set IMON Offset to 31999
Set IMON Prefix to " -", This is important, if you set it wrong you'll throttle like no tomorrow.
Set VR Current Limit to 928
Set TDC Enabled to Disabled
Set TDC Current Limit to 0

Thanks to @Falkentyne This should make your CPU report the fault TDP measurement so it never reaches the 45W limit.

Check out this video if you want to understand how Loadline works:

Edit: changed the video to a version that is much easier to understand.



6. Go to Advanced > Power & Performance > CPU - Power Management Control > View/Configure Turbo Options

Set Energy Efficient Turbo to Disabled.

This will give you constant voltage for each multiplier.

That is it for the BIOS.

Windows and ThrottleStop

1. Bring up Regedit and go to [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings\54533251-82be-4824-96c1-47b60b740d00\36687f9e-e3a5-4dbf-b1dc-15eb381c6863]

Set Attribute to 2

Now you’ll see there’s a new option called “Processor energy performance preference policy” in the Power Option, the setting comes in %.

This % is related to Speed Shift EPP, just it comes in %

This is very important, whenever you change an EPP value in ThrottleStop, you need to go to “Processor energy performance preference policy” to set the corresponding value.

The corresponding value is as followings (% is for “Processor energy performance preference policy” and the other is for ThrottleStop's EPP):

1% = 2
2% = 5
3% = 7
4% = 10
5% = 12
6% = 15
7% = 17
8% = 20
9% = 22
10% = 25
11% = 28
12% = 30
13% = 33
14% = 35
15% = 38
16% = 40
17% = 43
18% = 45
19% = 48
20% = 51
21% = 53
22% = 56
23% = 58
24% = 61
25% = 63
26% = 66
27% = 68
28% = 71
29% = 73
30% = 76
31% = 79
32% = 81
33% = 84
34% = 86
35% = 89
36% = 91
37% = 94
38% = 96
39% = 99
40% = 102
41% = 104
42% = 107
43% = 109
44% = 112
45% = 114
46% = 117
47% = 119
48% = 122
49% = 124
50% = 127
51% = 130
52% = 132
53% = 135
54% = 137
55% = 140
56% = 142
57% = 145
58% = 147
59% = 150
60% = 153
61% = 155
62% = 158
63% = 160
64% = 163
65% = 165
66% = 168
67% = 170
68% = 173
69% = 175
70% = 178
71% = 181
72% = 183
73% = 186
74% = 188
75% = 191
76% = 193
77% = 196
78% = 198
79% = 201
80% = 204
81% = 206
82% = 209
83% = 211
84% = 214
85% = 216
86% = 219
87% = 221
88% = 224
89% = 226
90% = 229
91% = 232
92% = 234
93% = 237
94% = 239
95% = 242
96% = 244
97% = 247
98% = 249
99% = 252
100% = 255

Hopefully you are still following.

2. Go to ThrottleStop FIVR and start undervolting.

A good start with the new AC / DC loadline setting both to 5 would be -165mV for Core and -43mV for Cache.

Start tweaking from there.

3. In ThrottleStop click on the C state tab, you can set your C state here:




3. If you want more control over your CPU, check the link in my signature.

Be patient and feel all the improvement after intensive tweaking

 

Hello everyone,


I can kinda bend this part inwards, could anyone with this laptop try to kinda push in this part and see if it also bends like mine? Just trying to make sure my product is not faulty.

 

Emphasis mine.

You can tell which GPU is in use by the color of the power LED.

 

Thank you hackness. https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/29102244

 

Hi @hackness . I have seen your guide, and is it needed for me to install unlocked BIOS, and is this safe for me to do aswell? I do not have anything changed, like thermal paste. It has been repasted by the repair center where i RMA'ed.

 

Mine bent inwards as well, but not permanently, it was just flexible. Got my laptop RMA'ed, and it fixed the problem (New chassis)

 

You can read Paloesco's unlock thread.
there are three ways to unlock the bios. Two are completely safe. One costs money. The third has risk and some difficulty but its mostly hard work and following instructions.

 

Recently MSI sent me another heat sink because I wanted to try and replace the CPU fan since I thought I heard it rattling. I tried replacing the entire heatsink, both GPU and CPU fan, and while my laptop does boot to windows just fine, the GPU fan revs up periodically for no reason no matter what I'm doing. My CPU cores are fine and my GPU temps are the same as before. Is there something I need to do in the BIOS to official install the new heatsink+fans or something?

 

What package c state do we want? Request C1? Do we want to change the response limit?

 

There are a few ways like @Falkentyne said. The easiest way is through the Key combination.

Previously, someone posted a picture identifying the fan level with the designated temperature. You will need to look for that in this thread. I think it was around page 60 to page 140, I can't remember it.

However I have the 2 sliders on the cool side for both CPU and the GPU slides to 0 in Silent Option. So the fan doesn't do anything until it raises to a certain temperature.

I still don't understand the concept of the response limit so I left it at default.

But certainly on plugged-in mode.

C1 still allows the clock to down clock to idle level but at the same time it always allows quick resume back to full power.

Compared to the other C state,

the higher the C number goes, the more part of the CPU gets shutdown or have the voltage lowered

so to resume, the higher C number mode will always be less responsive compared to the lower C number mode.

 

Page 209 is fan speed and dB

 

But is there any danger or risk for me to apply those bios settings, if I ONLY do what the post tells me to do?

 

There is no risk if you do exactly the same as stated in the post, the real risk that could turn it into a brick is to touch settings related to iGPU / Undervolting (In the BIOS)

Just be careful if you are going for those 2, because the GS65 is known for not able to perform full CMOS clear, at most only the RAM settings are revert back to default, and that is it. So if it is settings other than the RAM settings that are causing the CPU to crash, it is a brick for sure.

 

So I just follow the instructions, and everything should be fine, yeah?

 

Yes, if strictly followed.

But not including any accident cause by an earth quake or something like that.

 

So what about the undervolt? I can't get my undervolt up to -150 even without bios tweaking, just -130 ish, with 3.6GHz stable (3.7GHz I'm not sure of yet)
Would -50mV on core and cache still be the way to go with the tweaked bios?

 

I'd say if that is the case, start with 0mV, but the undervolting for core can will stop at a point where the actually voltage will not lower anymore.

And to go lower, you need to start undervolting the cache.

It is best if you test this with ThrottleStop's TS Bench, reason being that TS Bench will report back how many errors popped during the benching session. Especially having the AC / DC Loadline set to 5~10, there will be nearly no room to hold the error, so with this mod, the Error will show straight away in TS Bench. It is good, because it also means you have undervolted too much on the Cache. The situation is a little different compared to the default AC/ DC Loadline, which is 180, when you undervolted too much, the CPU doesn't report back error, but instead you get BSOD (Blue) or OSOD (Orange... Win10 thingy... Means unusual error) straight away.

 

Wait a minute, am I not supposed to undervolt cache at same level as core? I have undervolted both core and cache at -130mV