Semi Full review
Remove the MSI overvolt to the 9750h of this system (found earlier in this post), repaste (LM does help but I used GELID EXTREME), Determine UV of Processor. Flash 90w vbios and determine your UV curve for RTX 2060.
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In addition:
Full re-install of 1809 Windows 10 (NTlite to remove Microsoft telem/cortana/store)
Only an installation of DCH Drivers for Chipset, iGPU, and Nvidia Driver (nvidia stripper utility to remove non-driver components) from their respective sites.
Then I installed the SteelSeries Driver from MSI, Microsoft requirements for MSI AfterBurner, CPU-Z, GPU-Z and THROTTLESTOP.
Installed respective programs. Testing has been with World Of Warcraft / LOL and UL Futuremark series (3dMark).
Word to the wise at this point. Performance was great and one does not need to flash VBIOS to 90w. My CPU plays nice, soooo... Profit.
Flashed VBios, no driver reinstall needed.
So once you remove the overvolt in the hidden bios settings, You should then proceed to fine tuning your UV on the CPU. This is critical, more critical than finding anything else out about this laptop to ensure performance and fan sound control.
Here are my settings for the score shown above in Firestrike without LM and keeping sub 86C on CPU sub 73C on GPU. If you are curious, this was test run 6. It wasn't the highest and I wasn't keeping an average they all were very close. 15,200 total with GPU 17,000+ to 15,800\with GPU near 17,500.
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Here is the catch!!!** - If you don't find your optimum power settings for CPU, you will get bad performance. It is no joke. I can run all cores @37 all day and in gaming use I never see over 75C on the core. I ran a 50x run of Firestrike. Never broke 75C. (The screenshot is from after rebooting and coming home to write this up, that is why my max is only 50C. In normal use I can hit 55. Spotify, Chrome tabs, youtube, etc)
You really don't have to mess with the boost curve on any VBIOS with the 2060. In general, once repasted you will net a better performance, however...
You can UV the boost curve and yield a more consistent experience, which is key for me. You can see the default curve, which gave the score above.
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You can also see what I use, which never goes above the 70s.
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Laptop out the box, 7 out of 10. After tinkering and tuning with a regular sale price of $1899 I would say it is a 9 out of 10. Its a solid performer and with the right tweaks is a great mix for work/play. SUPER Portable. 8 Hours and 7 Minutes on battery in general use, 3 to 5 hours when gaming on battery.
Lucked out and picked one up new at BB for $1650 so this is a solid 10 for me.
If you are willing to take a couple of hours to repaste/reformat/tune and are in the market, I absolutely recommend. If not, maybe its time to learn.
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Nice work somejoshdude!
Do you have 3DMark TimeSpy numbers?
Wich BIOS do you use for the RTX 2060? Your MiniDisplay Port works? I have the ASUS BIOS and didnt work but I read in this thread that the Razer Bios works fine the miniDP! -
Where do I find the overvolt bit
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk -
Folks who bought their laptops when the 8750h/9750h model got released, what is the wear level on your battery? I rarely use mine without power plugged in (probably 5-10 times since I bought it) and always maintain 50-60% charge in the battery, but despite that, after doing my first battery calibration, I got a wear level of 8.9% which I find to be quite high. Thoughts anyone?
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specialist7 Notebook Evangelist
Hmm now I'm interested in the 90W VBIOS lol
https://www.3dmark.com/fs/20654944
This is one of my runs, could be higher as I have ram running at 3200CL18 atm.. the benchmark I think was at 2666CL17, I could probably top my old 1070 laptop.
But yeah, similar to what I did with my desktop 2080:
I went on Afterburner, moved my slider to -502.
Control + F to bring up Curve Editor.
Pick a spot where you'll be testing or you know thats stable. For example I want my 2080 to run constantly at 19xxMHz and I know its stable at 0.962V so I pick that point and drag it to 2000MHz then hit Apply.
So now when I'm playing it will have less heat and have consistent 2000MHz>, of course YMMV you may have better undervolt or cooling but its better than pushing 1.050V which will heat up more and GPU Boost lowering clocks to even less than 19xxMHz. This is just an example that I use from my desktop 2080 so it'll be different with laptop so testing stability is a must but undervolt/overclock is the way to go.Last edited: Oct 29, 2019 -
Set VR Current Limit to 928
Set TDC Enable to Disabled
Set TDC Current Limit to 0
If you need to add a negative offset to the reported TDP to avoid the PL1 Throttle, change also the following items:
Set IMON Slope to 50
Set IMON Offset to 31999
Set IMON Prefix to " -" (Negative)
If you want to lessen the temperature and voltage fluctuation, do the followings:
////////////////////WARNING/////////////////////
Before changing the following items, make sure all undervolt offset are set to 0 in ThrottleStop / XTU and the BIOS, this must be done beforehand.
An undervolt offset of -43 ~ -65mV on the cache is as far as you can go undervolting in ThrottleStop at 3.9GHz x 6 cores after you have made the following changes.
////////////////////WARNING/////////////////////
Set AC Loadline to 1
Set DC Loadline to 1
I'll do some testing with the razer bios, there must be some bit to enable 100w -
specialist7 Notebook Evangelist
I have new ram sets that came in today but I won't be installing them for another 1-2 days when the rest of my packages come (new drive) so I can do it all in one go xD -
Timespy
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AC/DC was 180 stock
Set AC Loadline to 1
Set DC Loadline to 1
try reverting these values back to stock
Set VR Current Limit to 928
Set TDC Enable to Disabled
Set TDC Current Limit to 0
Repasting this laptop, is a PITA in the sense that the QC on the HS/Fan assembly is just not that great.
when repasting, half turn each screw in a star format. Continue until evenly installed
1 4
6 2
3 5
Please also note, all pastes are different. GELID takes about 12 hours of heat to set, at least in my experience. I believe Hydronaut is like 30 minutes. etc. If you notice no benefit in repaste.. Most likely it was not a good enough application (not seating correctly on die) OR there is another configuration piece pushing too much voltage enabled/inplace.
This laptop offers free ram overclock as an fyi
Kingston memory @ 2666 set to 3458 20/20/20/49/1T confirmed stability =D -
Had to repaste twice...first time had very uneven temps on core...im hitting the cpu 45w limit under stress test running aida and unigen together but if i mod the bios settings hwinfo doesnt read the package right so wont know if im over 45 or not......i used CM maker nano and fujipoly pads temps were definitely better and was at a stable 3.6 on all cores during testing but sutck at 45w.....yes it is a PITA i did the tighetening as best i could also...im using the stock 32gb sticks i ondt know how much headroom i would have with these..what setting did u change to overcolck? I got core 0 and core 2 that get hotter than all the others but usually taper off but they go up faster i repasted twice now trying to improve this it got better 2nd time as insted of having 3 cores for haywire i only have 2 now but whatever i guess the fan design just doesnt allow for perfectly even contact id thinkAttached Files:
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Hi ugys after a clean install burghtness adjustment does not work...when i do the fnc+down arrow i see the onscreen bar going down but nothing really happens, brightness stays the same....any ideas? I dont have dragon center just silent option and drivers off the nvidia site thats about it...everything else windows installed.
Last edited: Oct 29, 2019 -
Scratch that i installed updated intel drivers....that worked...Do i have to install nahimic or leav the drivers windows installed?
Last edited: Oct 29, 2019 -
Can you explain what u did a bit more id like to generate less heat on my 2060 also and i cant seem to access those curve controls on msi afterburnerLast edited: Oct 29, 2019 -
Sweet and I don't believe in "modes" only true color or best bet all in one profiles... with that I suggest the .icm found here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1yXzOSiKxajUJse6L0gsyLfwS0mbfvIb_Attached Files:
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specialist7 Notebook Evangelist
But here is an example from my desktop 2080.
Say you just want... regular GPU Boost to do its thing. Heres what it'll do.
It will load up 1.031V, for stock, for that boost table. Why is that? Well we hit Control + F to find out.
We see roughly 1.031V for 1935MHz boost. Just like undervolting/overclocking the CPU, a GPU doesn't need all that voltage. It's a set standard table for certain model/bin/vbios etc...
We set everything on default then move the Clock Core to -502.
Then we pick a point we are going to TEST or we know its stable. For testing purposes you benchmark then move up (voltage) if its unstable.
In my case I know 0.962V is stable for 2000MHz (2GHz) so I take that point and move it up.
Hit Apply.
Now my table looks like this. So it will clock all the way to 2000MHz (2GHz) and keep that voltage. So you may be able to get more consistent clock speeds without the added voltage which in turn = less heat.
Again this is an example from my 2080 desktop, it may or may not display the voltages, you can probably find out through another app.
Sooooooo.... Before:
After:
Make sure you go to Settings and check Unlock voltage control then hit Control + F after app resets.
Last edited: Oct 29, 2019 -
here she is naked!!
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On a side note wile i was taking her apart i installed that killer wifi 6 card....havent downloaded any software from killer but intel drivers seem to be working fine...do i download their software or leave as is
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. This laptop really is a slick setup once all is said and done, after turning on intel speed shift, now have like 8 profiles I want ahahaha.
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I cannot hear my laptop fans over my ceiling fan. Razer vbios runs better for me than the ASUS vbios. 80w target 90w peak.
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specialist7 Notebook Evangelist
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Yeah I just used intel drivers
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk -
Open throttlestop, select TPL and change the speedshift multiplier under the limter.
The settings for Wow as presented was with 11 - 20. This allows you to further undervolt. I can play wow and I cannot hear the fans at 120 fps classic settings, still really cannot hear them at 7 quality.
If you find the sweet spot for a curve, it makes gaming seamless. So for more advanced games 2.8-3.8 is great, while you may want to press your luck with 40-44 for benchmarks. Some lock it in at 3.5 or 3.6 but I love underclocking as I play MOBAs, Action RPGs and MMORPGs. -
Gotcha, i've been playing around with COD MW as those are the kind of games i like mostly or at least that demanding and settled at 3.2 with undervolt of 0.73 as thats what passes the TS benchmark i tried 3.5 and 3.7 and really got no gains FPS wise so i made that a profile CPU doesnt go above 74 GPU doesnt go above 75 and im getting ove 100fps mostly with everything high with raytracing on it dips to 68-72 so i think this will do for abit i believe no sense in making more heat if its not going to give more fps. So far so good repaste seems to be working as well as undervolt and other tweaks.....do u know how i can have TS start with windows it used to be where u could include it in the startup folder but windows10 is another thing -
Another thing i cant get mine to lower tha multiplier under 26...in the bios setting it doesnt allow me to change it howd u do yours? -
so when I run wow @60 Frames, the GPU/CPU stay sub 52C @90 Frames 57C @120 Frames 62C
@60 it will spike to 1.4GHz on all, @90 1.8 and @120 2.0 -
Thanks that helped...what undervolt can u get awaya with at those settings? i just did that on my internet preset but tpl applies to all presets so i assume when u need to game with more cpu u just change it as you go? -
with that being said.
I have done 11-13 for a "No fan profile" for 3 settings in classic wow. I hear no fans, CPU stays sub 45C and the GPU stays at 750Mhz sub 60C.
The U/V at that setting is -165 down from -100 for 26-35 and -40 for 36-45. Power to the chip becomes less of a concern as you underclock as the chip should stick close to what it needs for those clocks based on the other bios settings configured.
Also at lower clockspeeds, there is little to no heat compared to anything over 2.3 Ghz on all cores.
To be more specific yes I have 4 profiles that I was putting in so to speak
8-15 anything non 3d or battery
11-20 Basic 3d gaming or older AAA titles
25-39 Advanced or new AAA gaming titles
42-45 for Benchmarks
I have been testing out 11-40 lately with great results as a general use profile. I would give that a shot, problem is you will only be able to UV 40 may 60 -
Can you tell me how you have it configured for battery use? or post screenshots of your settings that'd be great!! -
one thing i noticed is keys are a bit shallow compared to my gs63vr
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The UV -125 works from 11-32 for me, once I add anything higher than 32 for max speedshift I have to cut the UV in half to -60
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How much battery life u getting? -
ive got the stock 32gb in 2x16gb -
on a general load for gaming about 3-4 hours (Working on a wow 6 hours profile @ 60fps, have reached 5 hour 15 minutes so far)
Last edited: Oct 30, 2019 -
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Imma do some TS benchmarks and find the lowest UV on each profile
hmscott likes this. -
i got a question....i have a internet profile i used tpl to got 10-20 and im at .141 UV i did what u said and have a no fan profile til i hit 50 so far its stable at 40-41 no fan just using internet and youtube as well as outlook and acrobat.....i kinda like it.....i will be testing 11-33 for gaming as ive checked and most games are gpu dependant i belive im bette roff OCing the gpu a bit instead
Last edited: Oct 31, 2019hmscott likes this. -
How much voltage u pushing to the ram? -
Do we have to install nahimic after a clean install these speakers dont sound very good and have no clue if nahimic helps or not
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The highest battery profiles I create are very low fps in which the iGPU is used.
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