MSI GE63VR / GE73VR Raider Laptops

lol. well you asked me to check RPM after removing Dragon Center, but the programs people normally use for desktops do not provide the desired data on my machine. don't see what else I can do.

 

oh sorry. i re-read my post and it was my mistake. i meant to say re-installing dragon centre. So update me your RPM after re-installing your dragon centre.

 

Hello friends, i need some help please. I have one MSI GE73VR 7RE with Cooler Boost as you know.

Im using him a bit hard than usual with some apps and i dont want to harm him. Can you tell me if the temperatures are good? For how long i can keep it at this level/usage? In this moment when i did all screenshots i have cooler boost ON.

https://gyazo.com/ea5957daa93d0d607dc53abf74b2d79b
https://gyazo.com/535231388dfc3dfa6a79c6347cdad0e9
https://gyazo.com/425c5cbbf7c3fa1bf277fb9409817472

I dont want to damage it somehow. You need more informations?

Thank you in advance.

 

You forgot to mention your ambient temperature. The CPU is running a bit higher than normal if already have cooler boost on already.
Have you tried undervolting your CPU?

 

Im living in eastern europe and are low temperature under 23 degrees C 24/7 and ambient under 25 in the room.

No, i didnt undervolting, how i do that? Can harm the pc? I will have less performance?

 

How to Lower Temperatures, Stop Throttling, and Increase Battery Life: The ThrottleStop Guide

 

Until i figure out how to do it can you respond me for how long i can keep this laptop at this usage?

 

You should be fine - if it was regularly hitting 90 deg C I'd be worried, but it looks not bad.

Undervolting just means putting less volts through the CPU and GFX. Less voltage means less heat, which lets the CPU work harder before it gets warm.

Throttlestop is quite complex. There is another way using intel's extreme tuning (Intel XTU) app. Slightlly less daunting to start out, you could try that first.

Here is a video which explains undervolting a little https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBNP5I2y668&t

 

Thank you very much for your time to reply.

 

I don't know if it's just me but I actually find the XTU's UI very complicated for starters. I always recommend ThrottleStop for the sheer fact you can undervolt the CPU by simply clicking on the FIVR button and ticking a box.

Sent from my SM-N900 using Tapatalk

 

I must persevere. I'll have another look at it mand maybe see if I can get Svet to do me an unlocked BIOS

 

I ordered a gx63vr-1070 from newegg... i want to install a clean bloatware feree version of windows.
I've done his on my desktop several times...

1) I boot from USB or DVD
2) then i enter the command prompt and use DISKPART to format the drives (SSD and REGULAR HD).
3) The I install from USB using custom install so I can select the SSD as the drive i want to install windows on
4) Then ill grab drivers from MSI website in the order they recommend

Should that be it? I keep reading something about the bios but don't know why Id need to change/flash it?

 

Your 1070 will have a different support page to my 1060 - what are the last three digits 7R what ? Mine is 7RE


Near enough. There's a good guide here:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...dows-on-a-system-with-multiple-drives.800625/

Addition to 2) Basically, Partition your ssd so that the MBR is put on the correct disk, if not it will install on the Hard drive rather than your ssd. This is rather MESSY and slows down boot times. For whatever reason the BIOS/winblows will not allow you to boot from ssd completely if the MBR is not there, you wont be able to select SSD as your boot drive. You can always merge/delete the spare partition once you have windows installed. Happened to me.


It is explained better than I do in the link above. Also the clean w10 install guide in the top of that link is worth following, you can cut out a lot of bloat and unneccessary things (Telemetry!) The way to go is to create an OFFLINE install then Microsoft doesnt get its grubby mitts on you. Doesnt stop you adding a microsft account (I do) but I dont use it to log in.



BIOS - upgrade for the latest security/performance features.
EC - Also upgrade to latest.
Intel Management Firmware - Upgrade after installing latest BIOS - Its a patch for the Intel CPU vulnerabilities that arere around, again to stop somebody exploiting a security hole- (Spectre/Meltdown) I'm not going into detail on it, but you should do the update.

Hope this helps a little

 

So can I just use the tip from the earlier page ... have we confirmed this to work....

Instead or partitioning and changing MBR (I know this is master boot something but don't know what it does)....

Can I just set the second regular HD offline so it only recognizes the SSD and install Windows that way properly?

Basically
diskpart
>select disk HD (HD = disk you want offline)
>clean
>select disk SSD (SSD=disk to install on)
>clean
>select disk HD (HD = disk you want offline)
>offline disk

Then proceed to install Windows. Sorry for all of this. I'm paranoid and not amazing with laptops.

 

MBR = Master Boot Record - the bit that tells the computer about booting and where the main drive is.

You can try what you suggest but it may not enable/disappear in BIOS.

 

Isn't it UEFI + GPT?

 

Should be - at least thats what mine is set to.

 

Attention: Windows is pushing this stupid-ass touchpad driver update 19.5.10.128. It's completely removing the Synaptics program features (the Hardware tab when you open up the Synaptics SMBus Touchpad under Device Manager). I've tried literally every solution online to prevent windows from updating my drivers but it either doesn't work or attempting to temporarily hide the driver update isn't successful because it installs it too quickly. The only thing that works is uninstalling, booting to safe mode to install older driver, then preventing Windows Update through O&O Shutup. Incidentally the toggle options for Automatic driver updates through Windows Update disabled and Disable automatic downloading manufacturers' apps and icons for devices and Automatic app updates through Windows Update disabled don't stop the touchpad drivers from downloading and installing because apparently W10 Update is too godlike. The firstr update of this version got pushed a few weeks ago, I rolled back to old driver as final solution but there were still bugs (touchpad didn't work *at all* once I selected disable when external USB mouse inserted), and now it's pushing the driver again, but a new driver date 03/14/2018, before it was 01/25/2018. Bugs from rolling back touchpad driver was result of rollback, not driver version.

tldr: Touchpad driver 19.3.4.193 from MSI website is fine, but W10 is pushing new driver update 19.5.10.125/19.5.128 that is ****ing up my ****, and all the solutions online to prevent W10 driver update hasn't worked for me. Rolling back is my final solution, but bugs emerge when using rollback. No bugs if I reinstall in Safe Mode and use O&O Shutup to completely disable W10 Update.

 

Hello everyone. Just registered on this forum so far to ask the only one quesion I have about my GE73VR 7RF. In particular it's about USB Type С port transfer speeds. I've got a Usb С hub (not powered) with 2 HDDs connected (one is separately powered, the other is USB powered) and benchmarks and real transfer speeds with both are around 30-40 MB/s read/writes (and much less varying depending on how small files are), which I think is far less the theoretical peak of 5 Gbps. I wonder if this is something normal considering the price tag of the laptop and it's position in the market. In general everything I connected to USB С over a hub, like USB mouse, pend drives works normally, so I'm not complaining.
Thank you in advance for all the answers.

 

Hi all, in case anyone else is interested, I have successfully transplanted a 17.3" 144hz IPS screen (AUO309D) sourced from notebookeaid on ebay into my 7700HQ/1070 GE73VR. It works fantastic except that is stuck on full brightness and cannot be changed. I tried everything, fresh install of Windows, latest Intel / nvidia drivers, and brightness remains at full. Good news is that screen isn't crazy bright (260-280 per notebookcheck) so I'd play with it at full brightness anyway.

144hz is recognized, colors and viewing angles are fantastic. No problems with nvidia or intel drivers. Optimus is present, so no gsync, so i expected that.

Not sure why MSI didn't opt for this screen in the coffeelake refresh.

 

Is there a tutorial/guide? If not you should have documented it along the way.

 

I should've taken pics/video. Basically, it was surprisingly straight forward:

carefully pulled the bezel off (its secured with sticky tape). This was the hardest part. I use a pry tool at the seam between the bezel and the screen to get it started.
Unscrewed panel, disconnected 40pin connector.
Hooked connector to new panel, screwed it in.
Booted to see if it worked at all
It did, so I put bezel back on

N

 

Anybody got any suggestions for GPU undervolt via MSI afterburner or A N Other ? Yeah I'm on a 1060, which sucks (well it doesnt but my Power/Voltage is limiting performance) I know they can't be pushed that far so I'm not after mega overclocks, just to get the best out of it without banging off the Voltage / Power limit quite so much?

Blablah yeah I know 1070 - but I couldn't afford the £500 premium.

 

You can find a pretty complete guide here : https://linustechtips.com/main/topi...-something-every-pascal-owner-should-look-at/

 

First off, I'd like to thank all the contributors to this fine forum. In doing my due diligence I read everything here prior to pulling the trigger on a GE73VR 7RF-216CA during a boxing week sale.

This is why I was quite surprised after my left screen hinge mount broke on this four month old laptop last night. I was surprised that I hadn't heard of this issue on the MSI gaming laptops before. I was generally happy with the machine prior to this despite some relatively minor gripes.

Well... a quick search for "broken hinge" on the MSI forum came back with plenty of identical accounts of the broken hinges due to an obvious design flaw on GE, GS and GT models . This post here beautifully illustrates the problem and how you can fix it (scroll down in the linked post if you just want to see the pics and video).

I've encountered this issue before. My 2010 Dell XPS l501x eventually had both hinges fail outside of warranty the same way on the screen mount side. I've had to repair it using JB weld (epoxy) multiple times over the years. Unfortunately I assumed that a high end laptop made seven years later would have evolved equally the way other reputable manufactures have.

The below photo borrowed from the MSI forum thread illustrates the design flaw. The metal screw mounts are anchored in thin plastic. Sooner or later this plastic will become too brittle to handle the torque required to open and close the hinges (it has been noted that factory hinges require two hands to open the laptop). IMO the plastic absolutely will inevitably fail with regular use. It is just a matter of time (less than four months in my case).


Disclaimer: I am not an engineer nor do I have any experience in manufacturing. The pictures and link shared are of others MSI laptops. I have yet to pull mine apart for warranty reasons. Yet both the design failure and possible solutions seem obvious to me.

Among the possible solutions, I'm guessing that anchoring the screw mounts to the aluminum back screen cover would have added too much cost. The easiest solution seems to be using a stiff hinge material which extends longer up towards the top of the screen. The basic principal of leverage would allow the hinge anchors to see much less torque if they were spread towards the top of the screen. Even if they were anchored in the same weak plastic they would last much longer.

Below is an example of how other laptop manufactures simply build a more robust hinge design:

Here's a design (below) similar to the MSI hinges:

The hinges when mounted in plastic see too much torque and the plastic eventually fails. It is beyond stupid and has been a common problem for years.
I would speculate that MSI and all hinge designs of this type are designed to fail (shortly after warranty expires). IMO anything prone to failure this quickly is should be redesigned and recalled.

I will call MSI support tomorrow and will report back. However I would be interested to know if anyone else has seen the same failures here. I would really enjoy hearing from the MSI retailers that frequent this forum.

TLDR: I would definitely not recommend buying an MSI laptop until they change their hinge design mounts to last longer. Current owners may want to loosen their screen hinges even though it may void the warranty.

 

The hinge of my ge60 2012 model broke after a year. I think its a design flaw. Thanks for posting this as i am considering getting the rgb raiders. The colors on the lid look so dope!

 

OMG, so the new MSI GE63 8RE/8RF will have design flaw like this ? LOL..

RIP $1.5k sad -_-

 

Yep, my left hinge broke right out of the screen on my ge73vr. Luckily, I sent it in for an RMA with a 2 week turnaround time. However, I was a little peeved because they didn't push the bezel protruded out back in, but it's not worth griping to them about it.

 

Bought a Raider RGB from Microcenter, and so far pretty happy with my purchase. I really only have one question, and I guess it is one of those stupid paranoid questions.

I popped open the bottom panel to throw in a second hard drive, and in the process it looks like I might of snapped one of the plastic clips on the left hand side of the computer where the HDMI and USB port is.

When I put the cover back on and snapped everything into place, it looks as though the one side near the vent doesn't sit 100% flush to the casing. It is like 98% flush, so I can see a tiny bit of red housing underneath.

I assume that won't cause any lasting issues will it? Being that it is screwed in and snapped in as well?

 

You should be absolutely fine. Sounds like you've popped a tab... dont worry about it, just remember next time you are popping the bottom off.

 

Thank you so much!

 

You're welcome. Also if you need in to the case again, that wee bit is your 'easy open' starting point . Enjoy the laptop.

 

did you have 1060 or 1070 model ?

would you mind to post temperature test while gaming 1 hour ?

i'm curious to see 8750h performance on cooler boost 5.

 

I am torn between MSI GE63VR 7RE GTX1060 or the ROG GL503VM Scar Edition with the same GTX1060 GPU. Which one is better overall? Especially the thermal management?

 

I'd say you're not going to get anyone telling you to buy the ASUS in an MSI forum............

Passmark:


Thats my GE63 7RE, with a mild OC on graphics, SM961 (OEM 960 Pro) and undervolting the balls off it (-0.125mv). I have a 2TB Firecuda in the HDD Slot.



Resting temps as I am writing this :

39 degrees C on GPU
40 degrees C on CPU

At full battle cry when gaming with Coolerboost 5 and OC on GPU these are 55-65 degrees C. I have it on a cooling stand which helps a little but isn't an AC unit...

 

Ive had both (17’ versions). MSI makes much less noise, has a better screen , audio and keyboard.

 

Which one has better performance? Does any of the unit experience thermal throttling? If the answer to the 2nd question is yes, heats up and throttles faster?

 

Throttling occurs on the 10 series GPUS whatever you get - BUT, there are ways around it.
Optimisation helps, as does decent ventilation and drivers, as I've said. If you undervolt, you can actually overclock the 1060 GPU a fair bit.

 

Thanks. Kitguru however rates the Asus one as better gor gaming based on benchmark results. Which of the 2 runs better for gaming based on your actual usage?

 

Obviously I can only say MSI.... not used the Asus, but it has held up well with everything I have thrown at it. Runs my 24" 144hz Benq monitor fine, the integrated 120Hz screen is lovely but I cant use it as desk space is at a premium - lid stays almost shut when I turn it on lol.

Still tweaking a few bits but very happy so far.

 

No throttling on both, but I’ve undervolted and used cooling stand. They are the same when it comes to gaming. MSI however is easier to backup and restore and their soft is more useful IMHO. I like Asus ‘s look better but would go with MSI .

 

Thank you very much. Which one has better build quality as to materials? Both have the same fps on the games you have played?

 

Like I said - I like Asus’s materials and design better, it’s a matter of personal taste. But, MSI cooling got more fans and everall noticeably quieter. MSI screen have deeper blacks and almost zero light bleed. MSI audio is clearer and louder. MSI keyboard feels better as it has more key travel, plus per key RGB. Same FPS in games. Had both of them in same config: i7 7700 16 ram 1060 8 GB. I am no fanboy of either brand, just stating the facts. Waiting on Volta release myself to grab one. Cheers

 

Thanks. I purchased the MSI today. So far, so good. I forgot to create factory recovery before resetting. But everything is on their website, so its all okay. Undervolting by -.99.6mv is stable using throttlestop. I haven't tried getting to -125 though. Have you tried undervolting by -125?

 

I’ve had it on -140

 

Looking for this one:

https://www.notebooksbilliger.de/msi+ge73vr+7rf+raider+gaming+notebook+340438?nbb=45c48c

is the screen real 4k or pentile rgbw?
I will not play games but will use multiple apps and cpu.. how is the fan noise under medium/high loads and is it overall annoying?

Thing I definitely don't like is laptop not having SSD so I would want to put one in (either shop or me).

 

Thanks. But throttlestop only allows-125. What app are you using?

 

Under offset voltage. Change the range from 125 to 250. Then u can go below 125mV

 

Thank you very much. I'll try -130 first

 

Hello guys. After updating windows 10 to 1803, Dragon center occasionally runs on gpu and i have to close and re run it.
Nvidia and intel drivers are up to date. Maybe it needs a new driver update from MSI ? Does anyone have this issue ?