Eurocom Tornado F5 Thermals

Hello guys,
I just received my Eurocom Tornado F5, and immediately ran into a problem. Without touching any of the BIOS settings or CPU settings, my i7-6700k is thermal throttling under Intel XTU stress test. I opted for the unlocked BIOS + De-lidded CPU option on my purchase and I wasn't expecting the thermal throttling. Does anyone else have the same experience with this machine?

 

F5 is an MSI barebones but i digress.

Can you post screens of the temps, usage, clockspeed etc. u're having? Just use some tool to stresstest and HWinfo to monitor.

 

I don't know how to post a screenshot here, but here's something I noticed. When under normal load (i.e. web browsing and office use) XTU graph shows that Core 1 runs on average 10 degrees hotter than Core 0, 2, and 3. Also, Core 1 is the only one suffering the temp spike and thermal throttles the CPU. I would've thought Core 0 would be the hottest. Does this "phenomenon" indicate anything?
Under XTU stress test, the package temp shoots up to 97 degrees and just stays there, then thermal throttling kicks in and the clock speed goes down to 3.79-3.85. Manually altering the fan speed to max did nothing to the temperature. I don't know if this indicates a thermal paste problem and the heat is not being transferred to the heat sink.

 

Test with Aida64 as the guide and monitor what happen with Hwinfo64. Follow the guide in the posted link and post your results (take screenshot) before you shut off any load. How to use the forum(post pict etc). Not sure if you relly need minimum 5 post to be allowed to post pict with the forum's own tool (upload a File). But You could of course use imgur or similar image sharing sites.

 

Here's 1 minute 30 seconds stress test. It's just the Core 1 Temp going through the roof, all the other cores are fine and at the level I was expecting. All these data is collected with the fans running at max.

Screenshot: https://imgur.com/a/OL4Fu

I've also ran some flight sim on this laptop in its current state, and the CPU result is consistent with the stress test. Core 1 temp almost double the other cores and throttling the CPU to 3.7-3.8 Ghz.

 

I would assure that all screws for heatsink are securely attached as first step. This smells one or two screw who is not properly tightened. If the temp is still high after you have checked (tightened down) all screws, do a re-paste yourself or call tech support.

 

I was thinking along the lines of not enough thermal paste to cover the whole CPU, but I'll check. Meanwhile, I'll contact customer support and see what happens. Thanks for your help!

 

yeah there is something wrong with the mounting/pasting. Repaste again and then spread the paste over the entire chip this time, if the problem still persissts then RMA it.

 

Eurocom needs to step their thermal game up. I'm still struggling to tame my new GTX1080, but one thing for sure the 'factory' 2mm pads are way too big. I fooled around with 1.5 and had good temps using Gelid, tried to LM 8X now (2 days of 5hr tuning) and I couldn't get the temps to stick.

 

You can apparently opt for better paste for an additional price, but if what Papusan suggested turns out to be the case, it wouldn't have made a difference.
I'm currently working out with customer support how the warranty is going to work if I open the back cover. But if I do repaste myself, any suggestions to point me towards some good quality thermal paste?

 

Here we go

 

Great, thanks! Now I haven't opened the case yet, but given that I went for the "Unlocked BIOS + DELIDED CPU" option: do you think the paste problem is within the CPU (between the die and the IHS) or outside the CPU (between the IHS and the heatsink)?

 

You can't make much stupid with paste/LM between IHS and die(delidding). I expect Eurocom used Liquid metal and not conventional thermal paste. Either one or two screw who is not properly tightened as pointed before or a ****y thermal paste job between IHS and HS. In worst case both or uneven HS.

 

I did repaste recently(thin layer spread) and got worse temps than before. What do you recommend us the best way to repaste? What method-pea, line, layer spread... use a lot or little paste?

maybe the headsink and ihs not making full contact and need a lot of paste?

And turn screws very tight correct?

 

Some prefer the X-method and some the spread method. Both should give ok results. But the spread method means you should know how to do it (some put on too much and some too little paste). The X-method aka let the heatsink do the spread is pretty easy (put the thermal paste syringe in a plastic bag and in a cup of hot water - 60/65C to soften the paste before you put it on IHS). Screw down the screws in correct order and thighten fast(See marked order on HS). Try out Phobya NanoGrease Extreme

 

Thanks will do! This was my first go at spread method so yeh i probably screwed it up. Thinking also reapplying my gpu which also got slightly worse temps. Will doing this again ruin my thermal pads, or not to worry about that?

 

Be careful with the pads. The expensive FujiPoly pads is fragile (if you have them). The OEM pads will hold quality. But be careful when you remove the HS. Good luck, sir.

 

I think I might go for IC Diamond. The heatsink itself is copper, but the area around it is aluminum. Given that I've never repasted before, I'm not going to take chances with CLU.

 

Phobya NanoGrease Extreme ain't Liquid metal. The paste is similar ICD in viscosity but will most likely give better results as well on a not top notch HS. Aka uneven/warped HS. Phobya NanoGrease Extreme 16 W/mK vs. ICD 7: 4.5 W/mK

 

Well, I just opened the back cover, and the heat sink is installed properly. Am I to assume that I have to repaste? If so, can I use the NanoGrease inside the CPU (between the die and the IHS)?

 

I would ask Eurocom support... Have they used LM under IHS. If they confirm yes, let it be. Only repaste on top of IHS.
Edit. NanoGrease can be used inside the CPU. But why change if there is LM there?

 

courtesy of Mr.Fox for future reference on thermal pads thickness and placement



Also on my system, repaste job by EUROCOM was not did in good way.

*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

*** MSI 16L13 (Eurocom Tornado F5)/EVOC 16L-G-1080 15.6" Owner's Lounge ***

 

Appreciate it, but my MXM on the P755TM is totally different. Just a Eurocom GPU rant.

 

Thanks, I want to reduce thermal heat on my GPU, was playing GTA5 yesterday and GPU max was 91 but average is 84c, I played for 3 hours, CPU was 84c max with average of 81c @4.2Ghz with 1060Mv. Fans were Auto and laptop was on cooling pad.

What are your settings for GPU voltage?? I think you said you have it at 0.9V, can you post your curve settings?

 

here

But in most games I also lock FPS by RTSS

 

I'm not fond of locking FPS, especially for high speed action games like Battlefield, I play online with LOW settings but FHD 120HZ.

 

So, I emailed Eurocom customer support about the issue. They told me to run some tests, I ran them, and they haven't gotten back to me yet. I thought I'd post the results here to make sure that it's not a malfunctioning processor, and it's actually a paste issue.

Intel Processor Diagnostics result:
https://i.imgur.com/x3wsAiC.jpg

Intel Burntest:
https://imgur.com/a/nQE35

Intel Burntest with HWInfo:
https://imgur.com/a/kIIzL

 

Also, is there a chance that the paste problem is actually between the die and the IHS? I'm kind of concerned the problem is because they didn't do the delid properly and I have to redo the delid.

 

Could be, but I think the results would be worse with a bad paste job between die and IHS. Start with a repaste with already mentioned thermal paste between IHS and heatsink. When you remove the heatsink check if old thermal paste is spread well. Also check if pads have barely contact with underliggend components and not more. Repaste with more or less thermal paste vs. what you alredy seen from previous paste job. And don’t forget the pads. Check everything. Good luck

 

When you say the results would be worse, do you mean that other cores are likely to run hot too? If not, I think I should clarify that Core 1 (the problem core) is already running close to 100 degrees are causing the CPU to thermal throttle.
I'll look into some comprehensive repaste guides and hopefully that solves the problem! I'll report back after (eventually) repasting. Thanks for your help!

 

One single hot core means normally one or two loose screws/warped/uneven pressure on die/IHS. The Heatsink is not properly fitted. See how terrible temp is with Dellienware's TRIPOD MESS.

 

Well, I checked the heatsink, the screws are definitely tight, and I didn't see any thermal pads around the heatsink. Maybe I need to remove it and reinstall.

 

Yeah, the only solutin. Do not forget look after how the old paste was spread on HS and IHS. Maybe take a test application before the final paste job so you know you put on correct amount. Good luck

 

OK, so, where do I begin. I repasted the CPU and GPU with Thermalgizzly Kryonaut. The old paste looked fine, no unevenness. With the new paste, I managed to get the idle temp of Core 1 down to the temp of the other cores, but under stress test the thermal throttling still occurs. In fact, there is no apparent improvement. Does this point to problems underneath the IHS? I took a look at the CPU, it doesn't seem to have been delidded, I can still see the black glue holding the IHS on. Should I try a delid myself?

 

Idle temp aint so important. It's under load who count. And You undervolt as well?
Would be nice if you posted a few new results (stock clocks if this is what you run). Use same Aida64 setup and Hwinfo64 as in post #4 (remember put up Hwinfo64 as pict so we can see Cpu Package Power).

 

Well...
Two months of testing and not a lot of results later... I have this:
https://imgur.com/a/ggr5x
No undervolt or overclock, just stock.

I've seen Mr Fox on YouTube overclock his without temp problems (with undervolt, I think), but he did the delid himself. Right now, I'm suspicious of whether the delid was actually done or if they only gave me an unlocked BIOS without delidding.

 

@flightsim91 Your Delid was probably done horribly. Who did you buy the CPU from?
You need to redo it yourself. 20C core temp difference at STOCK is horrible.
Please don't keep a laptop in that condition, man.
Buy a Rockit'88 or Delid die mate 2 (one of these) yourself, off amazon (preferred) or ebay and get your temps fixed.
Remember to use Grizzly Conductonaut. If you don't like the cost per gram of it, you can buy this:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Galinstan-30g-Liquid-Metal-in-Glass-Vial-Thermal-Compound-Paste/323068372053?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=51025&meid=8a83307078e24c239aabd32db4339f37&pid=100675&rk=3&rkt=15&sd=251735856827&itm=323068372053&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:2203d9a7-3b9a-11e8-90b2-74dbd180da05|parentrq:a8246a681620aa12abb96456fffb1d5a|iid:1

And just buy a Syringe or something or get a free one from a Pharmacy. You will need to buy a cap for the syringe though.

A tip for filling syringes:
First, pull the plunger off and put the nozzle cap on.
Then pour the LM inside.
Then, put the plunger only to the "stop" area of the top and press it down only enough so it gets put into the "safety stop" area (So it wont fall back out). DO NOT try to push it down further yet.

Then turn the syringe upside down and REMOVE the nozzle cap.
then slowly depress the syringe plunger downwards. It will compress and remove the air in the tube, and since it's inverted upside down, the Galinstan won't come squirting out the tube. Just slowly press it down this way until its pushed down to your expectations and the air is out. The air will come out of the bottom, with the syringe inverted, with gravity keeping the LM in the tube.
Then finally, put the nozzle cap back on.

Simple as pie.

A COMMON and BAD mistake is to try to compress the plunger with the nozzle cap on, after a fresh insertion. This will make the nozzle cap explode off and LM will come squirting out due to pressure. Never do it this way.

 

Looks like delidd was done poorly. As you can see only 1 core is getting extremely hot, I think it's because of the delidd repaste that missed a spot.

 

Thank you guys for the help! As you can probably tell from the huge time gaps between my replies, I'm honestly too busy on this laptop to take it apart. I'll have to do it eventually, of course, possibly during the summer months.

A couple more question though. The heatsink pipes get extremely hot sometimes, but the fans don't really spin up that much, is that normal? It's not excessively hot, but you can clearly feel it through the cover.

Same thing with the hard drive. It gets really hot, on the cover. Does that mean the thermal pads are doing their job and conducting heat well, or does that mean they need replacing? The CPU and GPU aren't really near the hard drive, but it's not far either when they're all sitting in a 15' shell.