Ideapad Y510P

From someone who never have tried over/underclocking etc. could you please tell me what multipliers are a good value? I also see in XTU that my processor frequency is around 3.1GHz all the time, is that normal?

Edit: Saw in the last post that someone quoted your suggestions for multipliers so I did that and the temperatures went down maybe 8 degrees right after so that was nice! Thank you
I still got a terrible score in 3d mark though

 

3.1 Ghz is pretty normal but it should vary a little bit depending on what you're doing.

I would try undervolting first since you won't lose any performance with that. In Intel XTU, you can try setting dynamic core voltage -85mv. Then run a CPU stress test to make sure it is stable. If your computer crashes, your computer will return to default voltages, so try a less negative number. If it's stable, you can try a lower number but go -5mv at a time. My computer was stable at -95mv but I dropped down to -85mv to be safe.

There's also some processor cache voltage setting. I have that set to -70mv but I have no idea what that does. Maybe Jobine can answer that.

And integrated graphics is set to -125mv. I don't know if that does anything either since my nvidia card should take over in graphic intense things.

 

sorry for repost by i didnt got the reply first time...what are your thoughts on 4700 vs 4702..heat performance throttling..does someone have 4702? does it run significantly cooler than 4700?

 

Hey guys,

So I've been doing some more research on what might be the cause of my low physics score. Would it be possible that having only one stick of RAM could be the culprit? I've found multiple instances of others installing a second ram stick to run in dual channel mode which bought their physics scores back to normal.

 

Yeah that could be it. I hadn't thought of that. Now I realize that the Physics Test is both a CPU and RAM test and single-channel RAM could certainly drag the score down.

 

I get an over 8000 score because i have 2x4GB RAM, so this might be true.

 

Got a return label for mine. Not only is the Ultrabay GPU seemingly defective, now I am having hard drive issues. Shame, I liked this laptop. Any suggestions to the next brand?

 

I don't think its an issue with dual channel vs single channel ram. I think I read a while ago that there is no significant performance difference between the two. Anyways, if you look at detailed scores, you only get 20fps in the physics score. A normal fps would be around 25fps.

Run throttlestop and check "on top". Then run 3dmark so you can monitor your CPU frequencies during the tests. It should for the most part stay above 3GHz.

Also go into your bios and on the right most tab where you can save any changes, try loading OS optimized settings.

 

Thanks for your input. I did as you suggested and I still get the same results. Also, my CPU frequencies never dropped below 3.2 GHz. If it's not the ram issue, I'm at a loss of what's causing the problem. The max core temperature has consistently been no higher than 92C.

 

I had an Alienware 14 and it was great. One of the best 1080p 14" screens I've seen. Even with small text it was clear and easy to read. Not as simple to upgrade. RAM and mSata easily accessible but changing the HDD requires taking out the ODD. Not overly difficult but not simple either.

I have an MSI GE60-20E and it has been great as well. Very, very easy to upgrade. Has 2 mSata slots. Nice 1080p display. Backlit keyboard.

Both have the nvidia 765m GPU which is more than enough for most of my games. COH 2 struggles if the settings are too high but Starcraft 2, Diablo 2, Torchlight 2, etc all work well on high.

Cheers,

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

One last thing you can try is to update your chipset drivers.
1) Download chipset drivers here. I recommend downloading the zipped version: https://downloadcenter.intel.com/De...Id=816&DwnldID=20775&keyword=chipset&lang=eng

2) Make a new folder on your c: driver called "chipset"

3) Unzip the chipset files to c:\chipset.

4) Open a cmd admin prompt annd type "c:\chipset\setup.exe -overall" without the quotes (I don't remember but it could be "c:\chipset\infinst_autol\setup.exe -overall" depending on the file location. )

5) reboot.

 

The 4702 is 10 W TDP less than 4700. I'd predict that it'll be at most 3 - 5 degrees cooler than 4700 but if I am to choose, I'd rather have the 4702 since more thermal headroom = longer Turbo mode and consistent gaming performance. The 4700 will return higher benchmark scores but in the long run, the 4702 will perform more consistent because it can keep the Turbo higher due to less TDP which the stock cooling and stock paste adequate enough. One way to keep the turbo on 4700 longer is to undervolt like Jobine. Based on what I read here, throttlestop can't stop CPU throtlling if the CPU reaches mid-90s temperature for Haswell architecture. I guess the throttling scheme by Intel is on the hardware / firmware level.

 

Normally there is no turbo with y510p when gpu reached 65C. Unless you use TS, but in that case you can have lower multi with 4700 like 4702 too. But with 4702 you will not have the possibility of using higher multi.

 

i'm going to format all and install windows 8.1
Where do you think i should get all the drivers for the hardware ?

 

Hey guys, quick question. I've used xtu to tinker with a bunch of the settings to reduce heat. Question: does xtu need to be on 100% of the time? Or just once to change the settings, and the changes will take effect forever.

 

I recently picked up a Y510P and I have started working on some new ThrottleStop features. If your 47W 4700 MQ runs too hot, why not convert it to a 37W TDP CPU. No need to buy a low watt 4702MQ when you can create your own. Here's my 4700MQ fully loaded with Prime95. It's automatically throttling to keep power consumption at whatever level you like.

http://i.imgur.com/FEKmsip.png

You will be able to take this one step further and convert your Y510P into a low TDP netbook CPU. How about a sub 12W TDP Y510P.

http://i.imgur.com/XrdZUSK.png

The best thing about creating your own low power UM CPU is that when running single threaded apps, it will run at close to full speed.

Anyway, I am more into performance than saving power. Check out how the Y510P compares to the world record holders.

Antinomy`s wPrime - 1024m score: 225sec 43ms with a Core i7 4700MQ



Let's just say I am enjoying my new laptop.

 

Geforce Experience just poped out today with 332,21 Driver. It says it bring some SLI games profiles (it list Plants vs Zombies 2, its on PC already?). Well, downloading...

BTW, wich free antivirus do you suggest me to use? McAffe trial just ended today... bleh.

 

I was thinking of getting the Y510p with the dual core i5 4200m processor to save some money. It's a fairly new CPU, so there isn't a lot of information about it yet. For my needs (gaming, DJ'ing/production, and light photo editing) would you recommend I spend $200 more to get the quad-core i7, or would the i5 be powerful enough?

 

Nice, not sure there's too many people publishing their results on HWBOT though, at least that is, for laptops.

I have a feeling the 4702 runs hotter clock for clock over the 4700 but haven't found anyone to test that theory.

 

Hm, I just noticed that uncle webb's (and mine ) L2 cache is 256kb. But dufus has a L2cache of 1024kb. Why is this?

 

4700MQ has 256KB of L1 cache, 1MB of L2 cahce and 6MB of L3 cache.

 

That version of wPrime was released a long time before the 4700MQ existed so it might not be reading the amount of L2 cache correctly.

Here's what CPU-Z reports.

http://imageshack.com/a/img6/9053/wv5s.png

L1 cache = ( 32 KB + 32 KB ) X 4 cores = 256 KB
L2 cache = 256 KB X 4 cores = 1024 KB = 1 MB
L3 cache = 6 MB.

BlazeHN - For free antivirus, check out Avast. It keeps getting bigger but I find that the basic free version works excellent and puts a very small load on the CPU.

Chrisku13 - When comparing models, make sure both models have the same screen size and are using the same network card. Some of the low end models have the 1366x768 screen and the 2230 wireless network card. There seems to be less complaints about the newer 7260 network card. The cheap Y510P models also don't have the 24 GB SSD cache drive and if they don't have that, the motherboard might be missing the NGFF socket so you won't be able to add one of these in the future. The Core i5 might be powerful enough for your needs but you have to think about a few other options before deciding what Y510P model to buy.

 

Hey unclewebb,

Is there any specific reason you chose the Y510p over other Haswell-based systems to do your ThrottleStop development on?

Also, thanks again for creating this great tool. This series of laptops really needs ThrottleStop to unlock its full potential.

 

Avast might no be a great choice if you have an ssd cache. I found out that it was the source of my computer freezing during shutdown and the ssd cache clearing.

 

None of that free virus stuff is any good. Spend the 25 dollars a year and get Webroot, it is the best. You will never have any other troubles with virus or spyware. I have been running if for YEARS. It is now in the cloud so the footprint is very small and it loads very fast.

 

Ok this might be a noob question but to counter the temperature did anyone try disabling hyper threading on the 4700mq?

 

Disabling HT will do almost nothing to improve temps. Neither will disabling VT-x.

However disabling always-on USB will improve the battery life a bit.

 

I don't know I saw few tests that showed higher FPS gain plus lower temperature. It might be worth checking just to be sure if disabled HT helps y510p.

 

Undervolting will help. Maybe TIM repasting.

 

As Unclewebb said, it's a very old benchmark that has not been updated. Some show 2048MB cache for 4700MQ L2. It's wrong of course.

 

Honestly, I find Microsoft Security Essentials (or Defender on Win 8) to be competent enough. It's free and always updated. It takes practically no resources, and doesn't conflict with other software. I always replace all 3rd party AV stuff with MSE on every computer.

 

Not even that, just common sense alone will protect you from 99% of viruses.

The people who get viruses are often just dumb enough to click on fraudulent links.

 

Price was a big factor. When I bought the Y510P, it was only $919 CDN ($850 U.S.) for a 4700MQ, Intel Wireless N 7260, 24 GB of cache, a single GT 755M and Windows 8.1 delivered to my door. Where I live, other manufacturers are not competitive with that hardware at that price point.

I didn't order an SLI model but I like the idea of the Ultra Bay and being able to upgrade to SLI later. As far as I know, ThrottleStop samples the temperature of both Nvidia GPUs, compares those two values and then reports the highest temperature. I would like to add some more Nvidia GPU monitoring features to ThrottleStop.

I also like the fact that the model I bought has the NGFF connector on the board. I don't use a wide variety of programs so even 24 GB of cache helps to speed things up. You can upgrade this to 128 GB for $100 bucks and I expect to see a wider variety of options and increased sizes for this format later this year.

SATA M.2 SSD | Solid State Drives | MyDigitalSSD.com

I bought an Asus laptop last summer with a low power UM processor. It ran well but the keyboard was crap. You had to push the space bar in just the right place to get it to register so typing at a good pace was impossible. Maybe the one I had was defective but Lenovo has a good reputation when it comes to keyboards. The backlit keyboard in the Y510P looks good, has a good feel to it and it is easy to type quickly and accurately on it.

There have been reports of CPU throttling in the Y510P. When pushed hard, this laptop disables Turbo Boost to control heat and power consumption but that minor issue can easily be taken care of using ThrottleStop. Some manufacturers have engineered some horrible throttling schemes that can leave the CPU running like a slug when gaming. When plugged in without ThrottleStop, the Y510P is perfectly usable as is. ThrottleStop just makes it a little better.

The JBL sound is excellent for a laptop. I considered the Asus N550JV but I didn't want to lug around a mini-subwoofer to get some decent sound out of it. I like the separate headphone and microphone jacks as well as the always powered USB port and full size HDMI port.

When doing light duty stuff, the Y510P runs very cool and the fan noise is close to non-existent.

I like that the Y510P lets you overclock and under volt the 4700MQ so you can fully use what you paid for. I would like to add those two features to ThrottleStop in the near future.

Overall, Lenovo did an excellent job designing this laptop and then at the very end of the project, they shoved an impressive collection of hardware into a bargain bin case. I am not a big fan of the glossy edge around the screen or the fact that the Y510P is a finger print magnet but I can live with that. It will be difficult to live with the knife sharp edge of the case, especially where one's wrists rest while typing. What was Lenovo thinking? I might have to pull this laptop apart and take the Dremel to it to fix it up.

 

Yeah my biggest issue is with the build quality on this thing. Overall it doesn't feel flimsy except for the touchpad but the fit and finish leaves much to be desired IMO. Too many gaps in the construction and the one-piece clickpad depresses way too far into the casing when pressed down and shakes even when tapping, not clicking. Plus clicking any of the touchpad buttons causes the cursor to twitch on-screen. Until you mentioned it, I hadn't realized how sharp the edge of the wrist rest is since I use an external keyboard and monitor most of the time. Other than that, everything else you mentioned--screen, keyboard, speakers, specs--are great for the price. I got my Y500 with SLI, DVD Ultrabay, and 170 W adapter for $960 USD about a year ago.

 

Just got my y510 a couple days ago. I used to be into tinkering, but am I safe just leaving the laptop as is and gaming hard on it?

 

You should not have to tinker with it. I would keep an eye on temperatures though as some users sometimes reported really high temps. If it stays under 90C while gaming, I think it's okay.

 

Hey guys, quick question. I've used xtu to tinker with a bunch of the settings to reduce heat. Question: does xtu need to be on 100% of the time? Or just once to change the settings, and the changes will take effect forever.

 

If your BIOS has XTU support then settings will be applied at Boot, if not then they will be applied when Windows starts up and automatically runs the XTU service. The GUI is only used for making adjustments. Changes will stay in effect unless Windows crashes or XTU settings are changed or it's uninstalled. If uninstalling AFAIK it's best to set defaults first.

 

Thanks for the advice unclewebb. I had considered these factors, and while I would rather have a model with the NGFF slot, I think I would be ok without it. Which leads me to my next question: if I get an SSD to replace the 1TB + 8GB SSD cache, would I be able to use the old hard drive as an external drive using an enclosure plugged into USB? And would the 8GB cache still be useable? I would want to have the OS and some programs on the SSD, while using the HDD for larger media files/games.

 

I changed the SLI and 16gb for the one gpu and 8gb. And the AC adapter is half of size and weight of the other.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

Hey guys. Been enjoying my new y510p as well. I got it refurb from newegg and its amazing. no issues at all, knocks on wood.

on throttlestop mine says 36 T @ set multiplier. Also some of u check BD PROCHOT and some dont.

Any inputs?

 

For Canada, Lenovo doesn't seem to offer the option of a U.S. keyboard. Instead they ship all of their laptops with a bilingual keyboard that has some of the keys moved around so you can't find what you are looking for and the left Shift key is half the width of a normal U.S. keyboard Left shift key. I knew long term this was going to drive me nuts so I ordered a new keyboard from EBay. None of the sellers list anything specifically for the Y510P so I ordered a U.S. keyboard for the Y500N model. It looked about the same so I figured it was worth trying it.

New for IBM Lenovo IdeaPad Y500 Y500N Y500NT Y500N IFI Series Laptop Keyboard | eBay

The wiring harness for the back light is slightly different. The original Y510P bilingual shows two connectors side by side that goes into two wires. The Y500N has 4 smaller connectors but they also go into only two wires. The connector width is identical and the connector for the keyboard looks the same so I plugged in these two cables and the keyboard and back lighting both work fine. Definitely worth swapping if you like to type at a decent speed and have been using a U.S. keyboard for the last few decades. Here's the manual if you need it.

http://download.lenovo.com/consumer/mobiles_pub/ideapad_y410py510p_hmm.pdf


AmeriT - If you have enabled the +2 bins of overclocking in XTU then your 4700MQ will be able to use the 36 multiplier when a single core is active. Unfortunately, most monitoring software doesn't do a great job showing you how often your CPU is using the 36 multiplier. If the individual multipliers for each thread in ThrottleStop is "too much information" then give RealTemp a try. Run the built in XS Bench test. It is a single threaded test so this is the easiest way to test for your maximum turbo boost multiplier. If you don't have a lot of crap running on your system waking up the other 3 cores then your multiplier should average close to 36 during this test when your 4700MQ is overclocked. If not overclocking, you will only see 34.



Lenovo does not seem to be using the BD PROCHOT signal path to throttle this laptop. Since this is not being used, it doesn't matter if BD PROCHOT is checked or not checked. Some manufacturers have used this method to throttle the CPU down to only 800 MHz while gaming but thankfully, Lenovo has more brains than that.

The throttling that Lenovo is using is the Set Multiplier value within the CPU drops down to 24 sometimes which is equivalent to the Intel Turbo Boost feature being disabled. Some games are not overly CPU dependent so many users barely notice when their CPU is only running at about 70% of its rated speed. If you want your CPU to run at 100% of its Intel rated speed then you will need to use ThrottleStop and you will have to check the Set Multiplier box and set that appropriately. It you are overclocking then a ThrottleStop setting of 36T is appropriate. If you are not overclocking then your maximum multiplier is only going to be 34 so a setting of 34T would be OK. Leaving this at 36T is fine too. It won't be able to use the 36 multiplier unless it has been unlocked with XTU. The next version of ThrottleStop will allow you to unlock the 36 multiplier and lower the CPU voltage a little without needing XTU.

 

So i've asked this before but I always like learning new stuff, how are you guys controlling your temps? I undervolted and bought a cooling fan, but it still gets to ~70 degrees playing dragon age origins (albeit at 1920x1080 and medium graphics). Still...pretty old game.

Seems like half of you experts are running sli, overclocking, playing skyrim, and having temps between 60-80. Or am I exaggerating?

Also, I've been paying attention, perhaps too close, to my XTU numbers. First, the things I've tinkered with are:
Dynamic CPU Voltage Offset: -101mV (can do -120 for basic stuff, but at that level it crashed playing DA:O)
Processor Cache Ratio 28x
Processor Cache Voltage Offset -76mV
Processor Graphics Voltage Offset -76mV
1,2,3,4 active core multipliers set to 28,28,27,27 respectively.

One weird thing I noticed lately was processor frequency would be jumping from 1Ghz to 2.7Ghz for no reason, nothing was running.

Other thing that was odd was while downloading at 500kb/s on BT, processor was running at 1-2ghz and temp 45ish. I go take a nap for 30 minutes, and while I'm away from computer (perhaps screen was off or something), temp went to 60 degrees. The only reason I know this is because of the log. As SOON as i moved the mouse, it shot back down to 45 degrees. What's going on here?

btw, I still don't quite understand me having to tinker with all this. I understand undervolting sort of, in that the computer takes more power than it needs just to be safe. But undervolting IS different than underclocking right? By lowering my multipliers, am I underclocking my CPU? What I don't understand is why anyone would need to do that to control heat. If a game doesn't require my cpu to run at 34x, why does it choose to do so unless I tell it to run only at 28x?

Wouldn't an ideal computer run at just enough to power the game? I haven't noticed any performance drops by lowering my multipliers for these old games, but when I didn't tinker, it would be turboing as much as possible.

 

Hey everyone. I returned my y510p (hassle free, go Lenovo!) because it had a weird blue tint to the screen. I'm going to buy another y510p, but I want one with a matte screen. Lenovo.com doesn't offer a matte option, but I've been told that online retailers are getting y510p's with matte screens.

The one I'm looking at has the model # 59388313. It's available on both Newegg and Amazon. Can anyone confirm that this has a matte screen?

 

I received my y510p from Amazon with SLi 750s and i5. I spent a few hours with tech support determining my ultrabay card is bad. I was failing the bios check with an error message, "Unauthorized VGA card please remove and reboot." I removed the ultrabay card and everything runs smoothly. Lenovo has shipped me a new ultrabay card to try with a return box for my current one.

 

Spinal,

Lenovo does have the matte screen, I received one at the end of December 2013. I am typing this on it. Look for the model with the last digits 5667. That is what I have, dual SLI 755M.

I have a return label for mine, but I can't bring myself to return it. I am in love with it. I usually don't keep anything long as I like to try different stuff, but this one is just sticking on me.

I called Lenovo today and they are sending me a new Ultrabay as well as mine is getting very hot and also gives me the "device disconnected" error after the game crashes. It should be here this week and I have to make the decision on whether to send it back or not this week too. I am so attached to it, it almost makes me sad.

 

dtmwerks - Lowering your multipliers is underclocking your CPU. What most people don't realize is that a slow CPU is an inefficient CPU. The ideal CPU runs fast when it has a task to complete, gets its work done as fast as possible and then immediately goes back into one of the low power C States, preferably C6 or C7 where voltage and power consumption approach zero. As soon as the CPU has more work to do, it should instantly get back up to full speed. This is exactly how Intel has designed their CPUs to operate. With each generation, the amount of time to go from idle back to full speed has been reduced. Running a low multiplier when lightly loaded is the last thing you want to do. It doesn't save power because you are forcing the CPU to spend more time in the C0 state as it slowly works to complete a task. More time in C0 means less time in C6/C7 where the CPU saves power.

Here's a good paper from some smart guys at Berkeley that explains this further.

Power Optimization – a Reality Check
http://www.cs.berkeley.edu/~krioukov/realityCheck.pdf

What software are you using to monitor your CPU jumping from 1 GHz to 2.7 GHz? Check out RealTemp or ThrottleStop if you want a better idea of what your CPU is really doing. Those two programs follow the monitoring method recommended by Intel. Most other monitoring programs do not.

 

I'm using XTU since it's what I change everything with. But I have realtemp and HWmonitor installed as well.

Hmm I've only lowered by a couple multipliers. Should I put it back to default? You mention that when it's at a high multiplier, it'll get the work done quick then go back down to not working so hard. But what if I'm running a game, won't that keep the CPU working for as long as I'm running the game and put more stress on the CPU?

Or should I just run a stress test myself at 32x vs 28x for example. I'm really just worried about heat while gaming and will do nearly anything to help that. Just running games like sc2, and DA:O right now.

Another veteran here mentioned this several pages back, which is why I set up my multipliers as such

"The multipliers for 1 active core, 2 active... is just how fast you set your CPU to turbo when 1 core or 2 cores is active (etc).

2.89 is slower than 3.15 by a very small amount

You CPU is dropping to 2.39 because it is getting to hot and it cannot maintain it's 2.9 turbo for very long (that is the problem with this laptop). At -118mV mine is able to run at 2.9 for a least an hour so yours is either overheating or it is just the luck of the draw, sorry."

Thanks for the detailed reply. Have some more rep!

edit: one more question. what kind of numbers are you guys getting for just running skype? i'm getting between 55-60 degrees and 2.5 ghz 15% CPU utilization. is that normal?

I also noticed unplugging it drops it down to 1Ghz. Is this normal as well? I feel like I'm overanalyzing lol

 

Dang you got lucky. Something went wrong with my ultrabay card, and they were adamant in saying that it wasn't possible to send in any replacement cards. Ended up getting the laptop sent in for repairs three times unsuccessfully before they decided to replace the whole god darn laptop. Not fun XD
But hey, in the end I got a new laptop, no complaints I guess?

 

Thanks for the great info. I did not overclock. It just showed that input automatically when i started throttlestop, so I was curious if I needed to drop down that setting or not.

Thanks again for clarifying. I do play rome total war 2 alot as well as CIV V. Both are cpu intensive i believe however even with no SLI support , im doing great