Laptop Screen Upgrades

Well ... no, all of four them need to move:

Code:

4  -> 18-21
6  -> 34
7  -> 35
10 -> 23-26

The ' high-speed grounds' might work too, depending on whether they're hooked up on a combined circuit, but the regular control grounds will definitively do and since you're swapping them around anyway it's best to simply hedge against a make-over.

 

ok, that makes much more sense. thanks again, i'll solder those up in the morning and give it another shot. sorry to keep picking your brain but do i need to be concerned with write protection and if i do run into that issue i would just ground the WP pin on the chip while writing?

 

i keep getting overvoltage detected and read fails, i tried from the ZIF socket the way the cable was meant to be used, i also tried using ICSP but get no read, i tried swapping the 2 data cables (red/black) but same result, the overvoltage error happens when only leaving the VCC power/ground connected so the problem is there i believe.
Resoldered plug:


Bad pins found/overvoltage error:

 

fixed pin detection by soldering wires directly to the 3 pads next to each other labeled data, clk, gnd. and im supplying power via the single wire soldered to pin #20 on the edp plug and running each wire to soic8 blank board plugged into the zif socket and i have pins 1,2,3,4 bridged as the chip layout calls for




i tried a few different VCC pins between

 

Ok, so it's working now then?

If not; the Atmel is still a guess and pin-out can differ between eeprom models and the overvoltage error makes sense if the wrong pin is getting power. Same if the programmer is running on 5V instead of 3.3V (straight USB voltage rather than using a buck converter). If you can make out the markings of the eeprom then that'd simplify things bit.

Btw, what was the reason for flashing a different edid?

 

ive been at it again today for hours, i dont think this uses an A24C02 chip. i've been probing around looking for a chip that uses the A24C02 pin layout (from all the ones i looked at on Xgpro the layout of pins seem the same. i took a bunch of pictures as best i could, if you have a minute to look at them to see if you can spot the chip i would greatly appreciate your input.

https://imgur.com/a/fMHZR3y

as for the reason, this panel is not technically a g-sync panel but i have it working as one in linux because i can specify an edid override with an edid i put together and it works awesome but on windows its a lot more complicated and i already grabbed the bios modules from a gsync legion 7i and injected them into my bios, i need the edid to match and read as a different model in order to go any further with forcing g-sync on windows (a fools errand, yet here i am)

Edit: since i already found the data, clk, gnd pins and later i found the wp pad, all i should need is to find the right vcc pad and i should be good to go but i cant seem to spot which vcc pad is the right one and using pins 18-21 on the edp connector is not working out

 

Can't see all of the pcb, but the 8-pin in the middle is your best bet. Google the scribbles +pdf and you should have the pin-out. That will then tell you which is vcc and which is ground. Trace them back to the exposed connection pads and solder the wire to those. The pads were used in the factory to program the chip during manufacturing. if they duck behind the board then use a multimeter between the eeprom pin and the pad you want to test.

On the right side I can make out TCON_TEST' and 'WP', so guess you'd find the data, clock and voltage pads nearby.

 

i did put a meter on the 8 pin chip, the pads for data, clk, and wp dont show continuity when i test each of the pins to each of those pads. what did you mean by google the "scribbles". i tried searching for the board but came up empty, same for that 8pin chip

 

i have another idea, if i was to solder a lead from WP to GND i should be able to write edid over i2c right?

edit: didnt work

edit2: the markings on this chip read 2L946 0E29B6

 

There's no other 8-pin chip on the board?

The edid eeprom is mostly a TSSOP8 type, but it is possible to use the controller chip instead to store that bit of data. Never seen such an example before, though. Could search that particular chip and check whether it indeed has I2C pins and a small storage option.

 

i think im gonna give up on the edid mess for now, i spent a few more hours last night messing around and nothing was adding up, nobody i've asked can identify the chip and its the only 8pin on there so i'll admit defeat on this one and be happy i have g-sync working great on linux. windows is too much of a headache to get anything done but thanks again for your time and ideas

 

My panel model is NT156FHM-N41. I want to buy from this panel: NV156FHM-N4B. Is it possible? For compare: https://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=27048,34862
Thanks.

 

Physically it looks fine. Looking through the stats though your moving from HBR1 to HBR2 which requires more bandwidth.

Need more info on your system to confirm but, otherwise it looks fine.

 

My system details:
CPU: i7-7700HQ Intel Kaby Lake
Motherboard: Asus GL553VE Series Notebook
GPU: GTX 1050 TI
Ram: 32 GB (16x2) Corsair Vengeance
Storages:

• Samsung SSD 970 EVO 1TB (OS)
• Samsung SSD 860 QVO 1TB (For Games)
• HGST HTS721010A9E630 1TB (For Media)

OS: Windows 10 Home SL OEM x64

 

I don't think you'll have any issues migrating to the new panel. Primarily was concerned about CPU/GPU and both of those are sufficient.

Just make sure you can get an actual model and watch out for substitutes / "compatible" swaps before hitting the Buy button/

 

Thank you so much. Also, what is the difference between HBR1 and HBR2?

 

It's a measurement of bandwidth over the eDP port. The bandwidth dictates what resolutions you can potentially achieve and / or multiple monitors depending on the resolution selected.

• RBR: Reduced Bit Rate. 1.64 Gbps.
• HBR1: High Bit Rate 1. 2.7 Gbps.
• HBR2: High Bit Rate 2. 5.4 Gbps. (Introduced with DP 1.2)
• HBR3: High Bit Rate 3: 8.1 Gbps. (Introduced with DP 1.3)

 

You answered all the questions I was wondering. Thank you so much for your interest.

 

Using a Precision 7530. I have upgraded the AUO B156HAN06.0 display to a BOE NV156FHM-NY1 display. The storefront mentioned it would be an -N4B, but I got a more recent model instead. They are amongst the few 144 Hz 15.6" displays with a 30-pin connector with 0.5mm pin pitch, and it was a drop-in replacement. Brightness adjustment works perfectly, but a downside is that this display uses PWM to control brightness (waving my hand in front of the display at low brightness produces a stroboscopic effect).

It also appears that Intel and NVIDIA's colour management drivers are noticeably different, and using the display under the Intel integrated graphics in Windows causes a weird contrast-adjustment effect. I used to see this on my old Clevo W230SS notebook, too.

 

@Ionising_Radiation What would you like to say for my question?

 

@Ionising_Radiation I looked at the NY1 as well but decided on upgrading the cable to 40-pin to open more options and spend about the same overall.

 

Merely having a display with a 40-pin port does not open up options on the Precision 7530, because the pin pitch is narrower than usual (0.4 mm vs 0.5mm). There are pretty much only two or three panels that have 40 pins at 0.4mm, and all of them are the Dell OEM Sharp 4K 60 Hz Adobe RGB panels.

I tried the 7730's wider cable as well, and it didn't work very well, mainly because of a drastically increased length, and the display not accepting brightness changes. I notice you have the AUO B156HAN10.0 on your spreadsheet: I bought it for about $100, and it didn't work at all.

 

Uhm, did you ask me a question? I might have missed it.

 

From what I've seen the only one OEM that has a 0.4 pitch is AUO.

Of course the cable is one factor but sometimes depending on the OEM there's BIOS whitelist issues to deal with as well.

I thought about doing an AUO panel and a couple of them were a direct swap but my issue I ran into at the time was lack of inventory or higher than normal pricing on them due to the lockdowns where the sellers were located.

Compared to the 30 pin options the 40 pin options were more readily available outside of the standard 60/1080 configuration. 3x1080 (30) vs 7x1080 (40) and the 40 in option opened the door for a 4K panel in my case which threw a wrench into the decision of going 144 or 4K.

As to the brightness control I've not had many issues with it unless there was a driver update and the OS didn't handle it correctly which just required stripping the drivers from the system and reboot to install them fresh again resolving the limitations of the brightness control.

 

Really? Dell uses the Sharp LQ156D1 4K panels in the 7530, and they're definitely 0.4mm pitch.

 

https://www.panelook.com/NV156FHM-NY5_BOE_15.6_LCM_overview_46515.html

Go for this panel...is the best panel around.

 

Do you think that panel has G-Sync? It's Freesync certified, but I'm wondering if it can have G-Sync enabled :|

 

That may be so, but it is 40-pin, 0.5mm pitch. I cannot install it.

 

On external monitors its possible, in laptop application i dont know...

Anyways you cannot use G-Sync and HDR at the same time on a FreeSync monitor.

Your best bet is doing a mod cable but only if your motherboard pin out have 40 pin also.

 

That is true; I'm waiting for @t456 to see what he can do. My motherboard has a 40-pin output by default, because my notebook model comes with 4K 60 Hz panels, too.

 

Then you just need try find the 4k cable.

 

@Tech Junky Which one is better? https://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=34862,41243

 

@ Aka Coo Whichever is cheaper and easier to get in hand.

 

I'm really indecisive.

 

NV156FHM-NY5 Specification & Datasheets - Panelook.com

The best FHD that you can get atm

 

I can't help you with being indecisive. I would go with the N4B based on the color coverage even though the NY1 is newer. But, based on the "haze" / anti-glare coating I would opt for one w/o the coating.

B156HAN10.0 (1st pick) 1000:1 Contrast + 10 bit colors / HDR

Below are tied for specs & have G-Sync
LP156WFG-SPF2 (2nd)
LP156WFG-SPB2 (3rd)

 

My panel is 30 pin.

 

@Tech Junky Thank you so much.

 

Well, if that's the case then I would go with:
N156HCE-GN1 (1st) (60hz but better specs similar to B156HAN10.0 )
or
NV156FHM-NY4 (144hz)

Otherwise I would look into a 40 pin cable and go with the other recommendation above.

 

I finally got a P177SM. It's a barebone with a standard FullHD display. The motherboard has an eDP port, but I don't know what version it is, how many pins it has and what display I could throw at it, plug and play...

 

@ Blacky

If you download HWINFO and look at the display option and then search the display on panelook.com you can get some of the answers easily.

If it's a 30 pin on the panel side you can still upgrade to a 40 pin panel with a cable swap found in the service manual if one is provided.

If it's a 40 pin cable on the panel side it makes things easier w/o having to replace the cable and routing it through the hinges and taking everything apart.

 

Not sure if that is going to work. The laptop has two connectors, an LVDS and an eDP one:

My display is probably LVDS.

 

@ Blacky

Well, then you have a choice. eDP is going to give more options over LVDS. Might want to just crack things open and do a visual on it. There should also be a parts section in the manual that lists the part # of the cables available for your machine.

 

Just did:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=QW5KQlI2TkFlczcxSDVkejBSbGhhRHN4b0VoVnFR

The two ports in the middle of the image, the big one is the LVDS, the smaller one is the eDP port.
I also talked with an AliExpress seller and he has a compatible eDP 30pin to 30pin cable.

I think the eDP is eDP 1.2.

So what are my options then?

 

@ Blacky

Still need the current panel info to get the sizing of the panel to pull the displays on panelook.com to figure out the options.

The photo looks a bit odd though as it doesn't appear to have a place to insert the cable.... Maybe the actual interface is on the opposite side of the board?

 

Well, I will look into it. We know this display was compatible with this laptop:
https://www.panelook.com/N173HGE-L11_Innolux_17.3_LCM_overview_12343.html
So we know the sizes from there.
Here are better images of the ports:
eDP:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fEWfxAX5fAJGgarQ8

LVDS:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/wMKLMemcg3t7AroB8

 

@ Blacky

Ok, what kind of features are you looking for?

FHD or UHD? Current @ FHD
Refresh rate? Current @ 60hz
Response time? Current@ ??
Colors? Current @ 262K 72% NTSC
Brightness? Current @ 300

eDP 1.2 resolutions:


Outline Dim. 398.1(H)×232.8(V)

B173QTN01.1 2560×1440 400 700:1 16.7M eDP 120Hz 1 0 - concerned w/ lack of pin pitch info since AUO typically is 0.4mm instead of 0.5mm
B173QTN01.2 2560×1440 400 700:1 16.7M eDP 120Hz 1 0- concerned w/ lack of pin pitch info since AUO typically is 0.4mm instead of 0.5mm

LP173WF2-TPA1 1920×1080 400 500:1 262K 70% 398.1×232.8 eDP 50 pins 120Hz 0 0 - would require 50 pin panel side cable
LP173WF2-TPB2 1920×1080 400 500:1 262K 70% 398.1×232.8 eDP 50 pins 120Hz 0 0- would require 50 pin panel side cable
LP173WF2-TPB3 1920×1080 400 500:1 262K 70% 398.1×232.8 eDP 50 pins 120Hz 1 0- would require 50 pin panel side cable

https://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=12343,31904,31905,14169,14170,18976 -- compares the above 5 + your current panel

N173HHF-E21 1920×1080 400 500:1 262K 71% 398.1×232.8 eDP 40 pins 60Hz Datasheet 0 0
N173HGE-E11 1920×1080 300 650:1 262K 71% 398.1×232.8 eDP 30 pins 60Hz Datasheet 14 12891
N173HGE-E21 1920×1080 300 600:1 262K 71% 398.1×232.8 eDP 30 pins 60Hz Datasheet 6 3600
B173HTN01.1 1920×1080 300 600:1 262K 72% 398.1×233.3 eDP 30 pins 60Hz Datasheet 4 2028
B173HTN01.0 1920×1080 300 400:1 262K 72% 398.1×233.3 eDP 30 pins 60Hz Datasheet 3 0

 

I was looking to get a 4K @ 60Hz or a 2K @ 120Hz. Not sure if any of these models would work:
NE173QHM-NY2
OR
B173ZAN05.0

 

https://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=12343,46831

I can't find the NY2 on panelook but, the AUO is listed. Side by side the first thing I notice is missing the mounts on the frame which means you'll need some double sided tape to secure the panel to the lid.

The DP1.2 specs won't allow for a 4K

NE173QHM-NY2 - I'm not seeing this for sale in a stand alone situation

 

Are you sure DP 1.2 won't support 4K @ 60Hz? https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/does-displayport-1-2-support-4k-60hz-fps.2639561/