Laptop Screen Upgrades

Gosh, I just hate it when laptops have that kind of idiotic nonsense. There is no excuse for that sort of foolishness. One should be able to connect any laptop display with the right cable form factor and have it work... exactly the same way any monitor works with any desktop. They should all use the same voltage as well. It's stupid that there is a variety of minimum voltage specs.

 

Edit 3: Hey the upgrade worked! HP 15-bs234wm, stock eDP cable, with the upgrade NV156FHM-N4B running at 1080p 60Hz at the moment. It isn't perfectly stable, some kind of compatibility issue that I talk about in my post linked here. The screen looks and feels gorgeous. Brightness control works, no noticeable additional lag over the stock TN panel, great matte finish, great contrast and color depth. It looks good stock but color profile might help a bit depending on your preferences. If it leans in temperature it leans slightly warm stock, but that could just be because the original TN leaned cold. I am so happy with the upgrade and really feel like the time I used researching datasheets and examining wiring was well used to prepare for this moment.

Edit 2: After examining the stock cable wiring in my HP 15-bs234wm and reading some datasheets, I've 99% confirmed that many pin-compatible 1080p displays will work in this laptop without even needing a new cable. The cable or system may not support the full 120Hz, but I'll need to confirm that when I install the new display. I've ordered the new NV156FHM-N4B display first, and will use the stock HP cable DC02002WZ00 rev 3.0. I did get the other 6017B0975601 eDP cable in the mail and the board-side wiring doesn't look compatible compared to the wiring on the stock cable, so it's pretty much useless to me now.

Thanks to spektykles a few posts above for warning about voltage levels. That made me realize I needed to be looking at and comparing everything in the datasheets, and not just the pinouts. Luckily the display I ordered is nearly identical in voltage levels and tolerances, but it does consume an extra 1W max and a couple of the minor voltage levels are slightly higher (less than 1V) than my original screen. It's strange because most of the screens I've looked at have far different levels/frequencies than my stock screen and the NV156FHM-N4B was my preferred screen, like the best I could possibly get with everything I wanted (1080p, 1200:1 contrast, 8-bit at 72% NTSC, 16ms decent for IPS/VA, great viewing angles). I'm just praying it works, but the backup B156HAN04.5 is still really good.

Edit: So I got the cable I wanted (6017B0975601) coming in the mail. Now I'm approaching the rest cautiously. Before I buy a screen I'll install the new cable with my original screen first to make sure it's compatible with the board, and if that works then I'll buy the new screen which will take some time to ship from china. I'm upgrading the HP 15-bs234wm and if anyone wants to know the screen I decided to pursue the B156HAN04.5, $70-$90 depending on which listing I choose on aliexpress or ebay. Just be careful because the vast majority of screen listings are really just bait and switches; you need to contact the seller to confirm you will receive the exact model you want. That screen model specifically will not be legit purchasable under $70 as of the time of this edit, and most of the $50-$60 listings of that model are baits that are going to ship "compatible" models with inferior color gamut and contrast ratio.

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I'm trying to find this cable or similar but at a reasonable price. There's another here that has the 30 to 30 pin with the 2-lane FHD capability that I need, but the extra connector is 7 pins and wouldn't be long enough to reach the webcam. That's probably ok though but I'd need to test to make sure the laptop boots without the webcam cable attached, but then I'm still concerned about compatibility since my webcam cable is 6 pins. The pinout for the video signal should still be good right? If so I'll probably start with the second cable but I still want one with the long 6 pin auxillary cable.

It's hard to believe there isn't a single cable that I need besides the one I linked, called 6017B0975601. I looked everywhere and I can't find it or a clone any cheaper. There are lots of 30 to 40 pin cables with the 6 pin auxillary that will look correct but of course will not be, because I need a 30 to 30. Unless of course any 30 pin motherboard can output to a 40 pin screen, but I doubt it if the laptop was wired only for 30 pin EDP to a 1366x768 screen.

 

Cross-posted from the Precision 7530/7730 thread:

So, I installed the AUO B156HAN10.0 display in my 7530. It looks great, and it's far brighter than the old B156HAN06.0 display. However, there are so many issues that make it a complete deal-breaker. I do hope I can solve them; if not, I just sent ~$110 down the drain, and I'll have to get a more garden-variety display.

1. Brightness adjustment does not work on Linux, full stop. It worked absolutely fine on the previous display. I get a feeling this has to do with the 10-bit-ness of the display; there exists a DisplayDepth = 30 option that can be written to xorg.conf, but I cannot log in to KDE after that.

2. Using Optimus or the dGPU only, brightness control does not work if Windows is in SDR mode (Settings -> Display -> HD Colour OFF). The display is locked to maximum brightness, of 500 nits. My eyes hurt now.

3. When the above HD Colour option is enabled,

1. With Optimus enabled:

• brightness control works, but the steps, unlike the original display, are not smooth and they are not monotonically increasing/decreasing (stepping from ~50% brightness to ~60% brightness on the bar actually reduces the actual screen brightness.
• There are strange backlight shenanigans going on: darker parts of the display have their backlight completely turned off altogether, and this gives the display an uneven brightness. This effect is most visible in games where light text on dark backgrounds prevail. I'll upload a video shortly.

1. With Optimus disabled:

• The display is completely borked. Before a clean driver upgrade (442.19 -> 442.50), half the display did not work, and the other half was glitched and grainy, and the edges of the display appeared to burn in. This effect could be perceived even through a shutdown, and this makes me think pixel voltages/timings were seriously messed up. I wish I had taken a picture, because this is really telling.
• Now, however, I see a blank screen with the backlight on. Nothing else.

At this point, I'm not sure if it's a problematic display, or a problematic cable.

 

Anyone attempted to put in a B156ZAN05.1 panel into a laptop yet? It's a 4K 120Hz panel and my current panel is a B156HAN08.0. My concerns come from the 05.1 having a higher min voltage (9V vs 7V) and current (900mA vs 606mA)

 

Maybe the panel has local dimming support, but the laptop can't know that and you get the problems described?

I've been looking at this 8bit+frc panels to upgrade my P751TM, but I'm afraid I'll lose some features as G-Sync, brightness control.

 

I would like to post about my successful screen upgrade to a Dell Precision 7740. Parts needed:

• N173HHE-G32 Rev C3 - This was a used pull from a MSI GE73, 120hz TN 94% NTSC 40-pin eDP, in theory a 144hz IPS display should work as well (ideally not 500nit as it may cause backlight incompatibility issues)
• 7XT8V - UHD Display + IR Camera Cable, $12.99 new from Dell Spare Parts US
• YCRXY - IR Camera Display Bezel, $21.99 new from Dell Spare Parts US
• 0XMGG - IR Camera Module, $14.99 used from Parts People

Note that if you are upgrading a model with an Aluminum lid and UHD screen then you do not need any parts other than the new screen. If you have an Aluminum lid and FHD you would need to order the UHD cable. If you do not care about the camera or microphone being functional you can just the old module unplugged in the lid just fine. You may want a new bezel regardless if you want your machine to look "perfect" after the upgrade.

In order to install the UHD cable the display housing must be removed from the laptop bottom shell, which requires removing the palm rest. Dell has a good guide online with photos how to do this. The Display must then be taken apart and the original cable and IR module must then be replaced. The 40-pin cable is a little thicker than the 30-pin so everything is a tight fit around the hinge and top of the palm rest. Be sure to get the cable in its little channel along the top near the hinge so the palm rest can snap down flush when re-assembling.

The panel I used seems to be very similar to the stock panels that Dell ships, so the display works fine in both MUX modes with full backlight brightness control.

 

Hi, can we replace replace a CCFL lcd by a LED one ? except for backlight, is it fully compatible (at the same resolution and interface) ? if so, how is LED backlight driven ? is a DIY "kit" for manual LED backlight control exist ?
thanks a lot

 

Hi guys,

I have recently 'upgraded' the screen on my 9560 7300HQ from 1080p to the 4K UHD version (previous was damaged in use outdoors).

However, I have had problems with the maximum brightness since making the switch. I am absolutely convinced that this is lower than it should be, and have tried all sorts of hardware and software fixes to no avail.

Then it hit me that it might possibly be limited by the system, as I have not upgraded the battery from the 53 Wh to the larger 97 Wh. However, it is not my understanding that battery capacity would affect screen brightness.

Interestingly Intel Graphics Command HQ reports the screen gamma as 3.55, but I believe this should actually be 2.31 https://www.notebookcheck.net/Dell-XPS-15-9560-i7-7700HQ-UHD-Laptop-Review.200648.0.html

Can anyone help me solve this mess?

 

go into display by clicking right button on mouse and select display options....first option is brightness make sure automatic brightness is turned off and brightness is cranked right up in the same area. other than that you can check your powerr option to make sure its not lowering screen brightness....if to no avail lower gamma and make sure the screen is properly plugged in, it may have wiggled loose

 

Does anyone know of a screen upgrade for the dell inspiron 11 3000 2 in 1 touchscreen? is this possible? I noticed when both systems are side by side, my screen is more vibrant. Is this something that can be done?

 

I've been trying to upgrade my Thinkpad T440P to a FHD screen and despite many telling me how easy and fast the upgrade is, that is the only upgrade that I'm having issues with. I'm going to put out as much information as I can in the hopes that one of you can figure this out.

The current screen is an LG LP140WH2-TPT1 (1366x768). It works normally, no issues with it.

My first attempt was from a screen purchased off of Amazon (Vtek), model LP140WF3-SPD1. It looked normal, after plugging it in though, the screen was blank. I assumed it was a dead screen so I sent it back and ordered another LP140WF3-SPD1 from screencountry.com.

I attempted to replace the screen again, and again, nothing on the screen. I can't verify for sure but it doesn't appear to boot into Windows at all, the power LED just stays on and the fans are spinning. If I put the older display back in, again it works no problem. I'm tearing my hair out trying to figure this out.

I attempted the following:

• Reseating the EDP cable from the motherboard connection by removing the palmrest.
• Pulling out and reseating the CMOS battery.
• Running the laptop with only one stick of RAM.
• Pulling out the hard drives.

My only guesses:

• I am incredibly unlucky and got another bad panel with the same issues as two different resellers.
• There's something wrong with the 2-lane EDP cable functionality but 1-lane still works? (Can anyone verify what happens if you try plugging in a FHD panel into a 1-lane EDP? Does it just not boot the PC?)
• Something is wrong with the motherboard.

Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

 

I could find the compatible panels for your model but I don't know why the new FHD panel is not working, you can use the same cable for 2 lane panels and no need for a new cable.
http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=20462,23292,18920
https://www.reddit.com/r/thinkpad/comments/934djz/t440p_screen_upgrade_edp_cable/

 

costed me some time to figure out you are talking about LTN173HT02 .. cool upgrade on such an old(er) machine

 

So my plan is to upgrade the 2019 razer blade pro screen 1080p 144hz with the 4k 120hz screen of the "late 2019" model. I'm trying to see if there is a reason why it wouldn't work. The 4k screen also has a touch panel which I did NOT purchase and will NOT be hooked up. I had spent some time researching from all angles until my head hurt. I know the 1080p panel only requires two lane EDP while the 4k requires four. Is there a way to look up what my motherboard will output? Beyond all that here are all the similarities and differences between the two models.

Same specs (minus ram and storage)
i7 9750h
northbridge
south bridge
2080 max-q (8gb)
bios versions
motherboard layout

Differences
(2019) motherboard model DA720
1080p 144hz Panel: B173HAN04.0
EDP 40 pin cable on motherboard labeled D17-2NT

(Late 2019) motherboard model DA730
4k 120hz Panel: B173ZAN03.3
EDP 40 pin cable on motherboard labeled DA730

 

There's always a good chance swapping a display panel to another would work as long as it utilizes the right cable. However, in this case, the two panels above has a slight physical difference
which can pose a huge challenge.

My research conclude that the B173ZAN03. 3 logic board is slightly wider and the connection is almost dead center versus being 2-3 inches farther to the right when looking at the back. Typically, the length of the cable is very proprietary to the design of the laptop with little to almost no room to wiggle. This might require more research and a new cable from the newer model and even that is not guaranty if the motherboard has a different connection. Good luck though!

I will be swapping out the screen of my Asus Zephryus soon to a 4k 120hz. This will be the first of it's kind in a 15" laptop and I'm already finding out that I will have to physically modify part of the lid and hinges to make fit due it's logic board being longer from side to side. I will update soon for the very first 15" laptop to have a 4k 120hz screen.

 

Are you going to jack the display scaling up way high, like 200%, so that text will be readable without rupturing blood vessels in your eyes? 4K on a 15-inch screen is going to have very tiny text if you run it at normal scaling (100-125%).

 

Oh no, 100% scaling on 4k in a 15 incher would do more than blood vessels rupturing . I find it okay at 150-200% scaling on my 4k laptop that I used to owned. The biggest upswing is that this screen has better colors, mini led, higher brightness, and with 120hz.

 

That's going to be hard to figure out without looking at the physical connector on your motherboard. If it's a full proper 40 pin, it might just work but it looks like either way, you're going to need that cable.

Also, that's the first time I've seen a 1080p 4K panel use only 2 lanes. All the other ones I've seen use 4 panes.

Sent from my LM-V500N using Tapatalk

 

Here are the photos I took of the two cables coming from the lcd so maybe someone can make more sense of it. If you need a ruler for scale I can do that too if it will help. I'm sure the varying cable length will be an issue I will have to sort later.

 

I count 30 pins, looks like you might not be able to get it working.

Sent from my LM-V500N using Tapatalk

 

Image 1 and 2 are of the 40 pin connector, and the 3rd is of that 30 pin connector. Which one is the EDP connection then?

 

Ah I got a closer look at all 3 now. Image 1 and 2 should be the display connector. What is that 30 pin connector then?

Also it looks like your display uses the same sort of cable as mine. How did you get yours off? Mine doesnt budge.

Sent from my LM-V500N using Tapatalk

 

Ok good. As for the 30 pin, your guess is as good as mine. I have a webcam, and stereo mics on the bezel as well and that's the only thing I think it could be. As far as removing it, mine has a ribbon looped through it that you just pull straight up. I'm sure if you had a plastic pry tool you could pull it up easy.

 

Here's a guy that made it work with his Alienware Area-51m... https://www.reddit.com/r/Alienware/comments/fw374g/alienware_area_51m_4k_120hz_display_upgrade/

Basically, he cut and splice every single wire in the cable to modify it to it's proper length. Pretty extensive.....

 

Bloody hell that's some determination to splice all the connectors

Sent from my LM-V500N using Tapatalk

 

Green wire? Red wire?.......Wrong one! Boom!!!

 

I will first look for another cable and see if the pinout matches and if so use that. If not I may buy a replacement cable for the current one I have and do a run to see if I can extend it. All the while I am still looking for the regular cable for the 4k version. Thank you all for your input. The area 51m upgrade really gives me hope that this will work perfectly. I don't want to try and remove the bezel until the new one gets here but until then I will be looking for a guide on that as well. If anyone has seen a guide please post as I think it's all adhesive strip holding it on.

 

Here you go bud. Courtesy of a NBR member speedygonzales.. https://www.reddit.com/r/Alienware/comments/ayn5pw/aw_area_51m_display_disassembly/ Cheers!

 

I appreciate the response and but that is to take apart the alienware, not the razer. With no guides anywhere though I will be pulling any and all sources into figuring out what holds the lid together so it's still much appreciated.

 

Update:
I received the 4k panel in the mail and had great success in pulling the old panel without damaging it or the laptop. The new panel I received from China was fake and was only 60hz. The good news is the panel with my cable works perfect and had a beautiful picture. I am going through with the return process on that panel and ordered from a different seller on aliexpress.

Update 2:
Ebay seller: unique.buy* claims that my laptop doesn't support 120hz. When the listing was first made for the panel it said 4k at 144hz. I asked him about the refresh rate and he first said that the lcd was capable but later said he was mistaken then fixed the listing title to 120hz. He also responded to my return request stating the panel is legit and not fake. This is the photo I sent back to him. It's supposed to be 3.3 not 3.0

Update 3:
Ebay seller still claims its model 3.3 but says I can still return it. I will do that...Gladly! I should have just gone the other route and called it a scam so no one else gets swindled.

 

Hi guys and thanks for everyones contributions! I have read every page and searched on the net but I still have many questions, but in short: With my ASUS GL552VW that uses LP156WF6-SPB1 (LGD046F), will N156HCE-GA2 (BOE0726) work as an upgrade?

Further candidates I found on panelook by filtering IPS and gaming at 15.6 inches on eDP 2 lanes, 30 pins, min 120hz:
- B156HAN04.2 (AUO42ED) : 120hz, (unknown transmission mode), 25ms, 72% NTSC
- B156HAN04.3 (AUO43ED) : same as above I think but with G-sync
- B156HAN04.5 (AUO45ED) : same as first ( so what differs from these except G-sync? 4.5 better than 4.2?)
- NV156FHM-N4B (BOE0726) : 144hz, HBR2, 16.4ms, 100% sRGB, G-sync
- NV156FHM-NY1 (BOE085C) : 144hz, HBR2, 16.4ms, 72% NTSC, G-sync
- N156HCE-GA2 (BOE0726) : 120hz, eDP 1.3, 11 / 14 ms, 100% sRGB, G-sync


Below follows more questions, with the main one being: is the amount of eDP lanes and pins + voltage the only thing that should be looked into?

• Bezel area is listed on the LP156WF6-SPB1 but none on the other listed monitors - is it enough with display area and outline size + shape being the same?
• N156HCE-GA2 has eDP 1.3 listed while my LP156WF6-SPB1 has HBR1 and I think I found that eDP 1.3 uses more bandwidth, will this still work or is it something that I need to check on the motherboard?
  
• All of the listed display has 3.3V as input voltage, but they differ slightly on the more detailed specs such as current input, consumption... is this a concern? I read somewhere that someone fried their laptop, but on that case the voltage was different I think
• Connectors differ - will the connection work as long as it matches 30 pin to 30 pin?

Lastly, do you know of any trusted sellers who sources these panels and have them in stock? All I can find on ebay are ones are "compatible" ones, that is not the actual panel I'm looking for :/, best odds at the minute are Aliexpress?

If you read through all of this thank you so much, and thanks a ton in advance for any reply

 

When I upgraded my display I used:
https://www.ebay.com/usr/bumblesale

They sourced a genuine display, because before I bought one from Aliexpress and got a crappy display that had massive yellow tinting and had dead pixels and a blemish in the polarizer film.
You can send them a message and ask if they can source you the display you need.

At least, they where legit in 2018.

 

Thanks a ton! I did contact them just now but it seems they don't have the panels I'm looking for nor will they have in the near future, but I'll keep an eye out for other compatible ones with them

 

Was successful replacing a 1600x900 panel with a 1920x1080 in a HP Pavilion dv7 6118ez.
More details in this post.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...z-successful-panel-replacement-to-fhd.832860/

 

These 2 panels are identical in size and dimension even with matching connectors. http://www.panelook.com/modelcompare.php?ids=24180,30978
Physical is only half the battle, the other half is whether your laptop is compatible with it or not and that will always be up in the air until someone or company proves it.

You're dealing with compatibility on bios, certain OS with certain hardware, GPU drivers, panel EDID, etc. I have done a lot of panel swapping and typically I get a 6 out of 10 success rate. A slightest revision of the same panel can cause it to be a no go. I had a panel where it would only work with old Nvidia drivers...

I've never heard of a display panel frying someones laptop before since 3.3v input is almost standard across the board. The only real difference is the power consumption.

I buy most of my panels from Ebay or Aliexpress and obviously stay away from the "compatible" description if you want an exact panel.

 

@SUADE8880 Thanks much for your reply! Sounds like a 50/50 then, I'm currently checking with sellers on Aliexpress since most Ebay ones have the "compatible" description, looking at N156HCE-GA2 or B156HAN04.2 since NV156FHM-N4B is more on the expensive side with good reason

 

Hey guys,
I have a current ambitious project which is to build a 4:3 laptop from parts.

The global idea is to get a 4:3 screen from a thinkpad 60 or similar (as those are one of the last laptop with 4:3).

And put this screen into a recent laptop such as Zenbook pro. Obviously the case will need some serious work as aspect ratio is different, but that's OK. I guess the LVDS cables will be different, but I can work that out too.

My main concern is the software side : Is there something preventing you from connecting any LVDS panel to another motherboard? Like something closed in bios or even hardware like a chip firmware?

Also I was thinking also using the Zenbook pro with screenpad which has a LCD in the trackpad. And replace this LCD with a bigger one (as with 4:3 aspect ratio the bottom panel will be much bigger to accomodate up to 8-10" screen). Now this screenpad LCD is connected to a MIPI DSI interface. So the question is about the same here, swapping by another mipi device will that work out of the boxe or is something closed? This question may be more difficult I guess as screenpad/mipi is not mainstream.

As you seem to have experience in modifying laptops I hope you can give me some tips

 

Hey guys. It's been a while. Any thought about the B156HAN11.0 240Hz from AUO? I'm planing to test this one with the TUF FX505DT. It is the same 40 pin eDP.

 

Thought I'd ask here. I own a Zbook 15 G2 but been looking for a panel that's IPS with 100% sRGB coverage, and preferably good Adobe and DCI-P3 coverage. And where is it best to get one at a reasonable price?

 

I am just curious, but what IPS panel has the lowest response time? Anything under 3ms?

 

Just an update on my conversion. Looks like it failed. Got back on my old screen.

 

I have a SAGER NP7856 (CLEVO NH58RDQ) with a 1080p 144hz screen that has gone out. I am not sure what my options are for an upgrade, but I've attached my monitor details if someone can point me in the right direction? Thank you.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UJ9p6ZbGby_C54TzF8Ijc6idM3BaaTUe/view?usp=drivesdk

Edit: here is the model on Panelbook, albeit I don't think it's showing me upgrade alternative models...

https://www.panelook.com/LP156WFG-SPB2_LG Display_15.6_LCM_overview_38454.html

 

What tape should be used to attach a new screen, and that will have the ability to pull from the bottom to remove it like the original tape?

 

I could never attain that special tape after searching long and hard. You can possibly get it from the display suppliers when buying the display from them.

What I ended up doing is reusing the tape. I’ve reused them about 5 times on one of the laptops and it still retain its adhesive. Just carefully pull it out without ripping it and folding it.

 

With a slight modification to the lid the 2019-2020 Razer Blade 15 Advanced is full compatible with the AUO B156ZAN04.1. 4K, HDR, 100% Adobe RGB, 10bit and 500 nits. Beautiful screen!!

 

I'm looking for a 300hz upgrade for my Evoo LP6. It uses a N173FHM-N44 BOE07B6.

I was thinking the AUO B173HAN05.1, are there other options?

EDIT:
Would this be a safe purchase? Anyone have much experience buying screens on AliExpress?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/400...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

Yes, AliExpress is safe as long as you double check with the seller. One good thing is that if you don’t get what is described then AliExpress will refund you. The downside is that you will have to wait forever to get it from China.

Your laptop takes a 40 pin but with a .4mm pitch which now a lot of new laptops are using. B173HAN05.1 will plug in but not guarantee if it’s fully compatible. It’s usually a 70/30 chance of it working.

 

Update on ASUS GL552VW: change from LP156WF6-SPB5 to B156HAN04.2 was successful, however brightness control not working (it's okay for me since I have it on max all the time)

On a sidenote, is the best place to sell my switched out LP156WF6-SPB5 on this forum or somewhere else?

 

You can try here like I have been but don't expect a quick sell since since every panel don't work with every laptop. You can also try Ebay to reach out to more people. Good luck.

 

Thank you very much, I will try both