Increase GPU voltage

Hello! Does anyone here know how to increase the gpu voltage? I want to do it to o/c it further, because it runs really cool, but it crashes (display driver error) when I go over 860/1075. It runs at 69 celsius under gaming, and i believe i can push it further. Do i edit vbios or?

 

RBE is your best bet. I'm not sure if is possible without hardmodding the GPU. I have the same card but a G73 and I am in the same boat pretty much.

heres the link to RBE RBE - Radeon BIOS editor its worth a shot.

 

I dont mean to dig up an old thread, but i was wondering does anyone know of a way that i could increase voltage on my nvidia GPU? MSI afterburner only allows for this on desktop machines.

 

You can overvolt an nVidia GPU, using NiBiTor and nVFlash.

 

It's only possible if the GPU allows it, some do allow a slight increase, some none at all. There are tools that allow increasing the voltage for mobile AMD cards, never heard of any that work with Nvidia notebook cards, you'll probably have to modify the VBIOS and see whether it works.

 

Anyone know anything about decreasing GPU voltage? GPU's can be undervolted just like processors can but I can't think of a way other than messing with the system BIOS.

I have a pretty hot laptop which likes to go choppy after half an hour of gameplay so I'm really trying to kill as much heat as possible. To date, what I've done is:

-Made a laptop cooler back when I was doing my GCSE's for a project
-undervolted (I'll quite likely pin mod it so I can push lower than the 0.8750 limit)
-changed to MX-3 over stock paste (might change to ICD7 soon and thin it out with some IPA so it flows better)
-made a southbridge heatsink
-cleaned off the copper oxide from the heatsink to scrape off something like 1/4 of a degree

I might just go ahead and rip off the mesh thing on the bottom of the fan already since people have said that helps a lot too. I'm also planning on getting a new heatsink since I think the current ones PCU heat pipe is shot. Planning on shimming the northbridge too. I know I'll get screamed at, but I'm also looking at watercooling.

 

@funky monk: The system you have in your signature? Try TriXX for undervolting the card per software, if this doesn't work try ATI Tray Tools, it works on some cards where TriXX won't (e.g. I was able to undervolt my 6970m with it), you'll have to create a custom voltage if you work with ATI Tray Tools, TriXX has a slider for adjusting it.

If it won't work with software you can still mod the VBIOS (or I can do it for you) but it's not sure whether it's going to work. Testing with software before flashing a modded vbios is preferable.

I doubt that changing from MX-3 to ICD will help much with the heat, maybe 1-2°C, max. Much more important is applying the paste properly, sometimes it just doesn't end up perfect and needs to be redone.

A watercooling mod is theoretically possible if there's enough room and the GPU/CPU is easily accessible, but it involves a lot of work and costs pretty much, so I'd say it's generally not really worth it, but could be a fun project.

 

I vmoded my 9600m GT by around 5% vmem and core for a while. All I had to do was pencil mod 1 resistor, but it isn't always that easy. Post pics of both sides of your card so we can try to find the voltage regulators. If I were you I'd first try bios modding though.

 

First of all, yes it is the system in my sig.

Anyway, what I was thinking I could do was to drop both the clocks and the voltages in the BIOS, that way I could be sure that it wouldn't die on me. Then when I log into windows, I could clock it back to stock through software and see if it's stable. That way, if it isn't stable then I can still use my computer to mod mod the new BIOS flash to a higher voltage.

Just quickly, how many profiles do most laptop graphics cards have? From what I remember there's 2D, 3D and throttle. If there were more then it could be a complete pain to stress test, although the need for error free calculation and complete stability isn't as much of a priority with graphics as it is with a CPU.

As for the water cooling, I wasn't planning on buying a custom heatsink or anything. All I was planning on doing was making a copper loop go through the machine and solder it to the sides of the GPU and CPU heatpipes directly. That way I'd still retain 100% air cooling functionality should I want to go mobile but if I wanted to set myself up at a lan party then I could have a nice cool computer. I was also thinking about making the loop go over my southbridge heatsink too since that still gets pretty hot, I'd have to use clamps and PVC tubing for it though which I'd rather not do.

PS: For a quick note, how much does custom machining cost? If it's not too horrific then I could get a new copper block made for both the CPU and GPU and then re-attatch the exising heatpipes to the new blocks. That way I could design in a nice channel for a pipe to fit nice and snugly in.

 

First of all I'd recommend trying TriXX and ATI Tray Tools, otherwise your idea isn't bad. You should only change the performance mode (3d clocks), I doubt that a decrease of the 2d voltage is even possible with software or the VBIOS.

There are several profiles in the VBIOS of ATI cards, the important ones are 2d and 3d, there's usually also a profile for multiple displays, throttling, and maybe some more like "lower 3d clocks". Take a look at the 3d voltage, that's where you can improve most with undervolting.

Custom CNC machining (for prototypes) can be really expensive, unless you have access to a machine (at work, university, a friend...).

 

Hmm, I can't seem to go below 0.95 through ATI tray tools, would I be able to do that through BIOS at all or would some sort of hardmod be possible?

I'm trying to push the low power profiles down too so I can get better battery life and have a silent laptop. I'll try pushing the 3D profiles down at some point, I think I should at least be able to push it down one notch given that I can OC to 840/940 vs 680/800 on 1.2V. I'm also not sure what clock it actually maxes out on though since the amd spec says 680 core but ATITT says it's defaulting to 400... I'll probably just get GPUZ to make a log file or something like that so I can find out the max clock.