High Temps - P5000M - 8770w

Hey everyone,

I’ve been using a P5000M for a few months and my laptop still is running way too hot. It’s clean from dust and is on the correct surface. I’ve seen heat pipe mods and I’m considering it but my temps seem VERY high for only a fire strike test. I put on new 1.5mm pads and new thermal paste, after the fs bench I got 85c. I really didn’t expect it. I tried playing some basic games and after an 30 minutes in minecraft I hit 80-82c. This can’t be normal.

What should I do? Anyone else think these temps are unusually high?

Thanks
Nick

 

A few months? Why didn't you return it immediately?

 

The temperatures weren’t good but I didn’t see a reason for return, I was told that it’s running a little hot and I need to modify the heat sink.

I think I’m going to try a new thermal paste, maybe I didn’t put enough

 

I’ve been thinking, perhaps I need to change the voltage. When I switched the gpu I never changed the voltage. Should I change it? And what should I change it too?

 

Yes I would recommend setting a voltage curve via Afterburner.

That being said you will continue to see high temperatures as there is only so much heat the mass the can contain before the heatsink hits the limit, modification and an additional fan will be needed to reduce the temperatures longer term.

 

Normal - browser open / tons of tabs


Closed browser / wait 1 minute:


I've played with plenty of different pastes / fan settings / etc. I've even had paste failures that shot up temps over 100C.

Sometimes the temps are software related / drivers / games / etc.

Restarting Chrome just now to capture temps suspended the offenders that keep the temps high normally as I didn't cycle through the tabs to reload all of them and temps have stayed down closer to the baseline w/ Chrome closed.


To keep your temps down you have 203 things to look at.... fans / paste / power

If you unplug the laptop everything will downshift into a 50/50 eco mode to conserve battery. These laptops can handle more than we think they can or prefer them to be at, Even when the failed paste was an issue and temps at idle were hitting 100+ it didn't do any harm to the components as I was monitoring the stats to compare other pasties and it took 4 days for the paste to fail which I found interesting because if it's going to fail it might be 24-48 hours to show signs. Going 4 days though was a bit extreme in my book for something to just bottom out and stop working.

For functionality your temps are fine. If you want them lower it's going to take some tinkering and probably an active cooling pad under the laptop to pull away the heat / force air into / onto the chassis in addition to pads / paste.

 

I was reading about putting an additional fan in the disk caddy. How possible would that be?

 

My cpu doesn’t overheat from what I’ve seen though, just my gpu, what does that mean?

 

Ok, GPU shouldn't be getting as hot. My GPU tends to idle in the 50's and under game load sits in the 60's.

I suspect you have some contact issues with the heat sink / paste on the GPU. An alternative to paste though is a graphite pad which I use on my server CPU / air tower that keeps it cool under load, Since the dies in laptops are smaller than desktop you could probably take 1 and cut it in half to double up the height and fill any gaps. If it's a physical deformity of the HS though causing an air gap / high temps it might be worth considering replacing the HS. It could also just be the fan on the HS needing replacement.

 

Thank you for the reply, i think i'm going to try wiping the thermal paste off and then reapplying and rescrewing the heatsink down. Maybe i didnt put enough and didn't tighten enough. It would explain why my CPU is not overheating but me GPU is.

 

Yeah, it can be hit or miss when doing a repaste.

More isn't always better but, it should be coated edge to edge for best results. It should be thin enough to conduct to the HS but, not thick enough to be counterproductive. If that doesn't resolve the issue then try some other options as noted above.

 

I have repasted with kryonaut and increase pad thickness to 2mm. The temps on Firestrike dont go over 75, the highest being 75.25. However my score lowered by a LOTTT. Not sure what happened with that but I'm going to look into it.

Basically, I was **** at paste and pads

Thanks for all the help everyone!

 

Hello guys, I was wondering ifaybe someone could help me with something. I woul need twonthings for a project that I am working on - first of all i would need clear pictures of the lower part of the p5000 - above the mxm and right under the chip - front and back. What I am interested are the little components marked q507 ....U505... J508 and not only them. Second, I would need a copy of the vbios extracted with a chip programmer if possible, the whole 512 kb. I hope someone sees this and gives a hand, I have looked the internet as far as i could, but .... no answer. Thank you in advance. Best regards. Bagzee

 

@ bagster

Go grab the service manual and look them up.

https://repo.palkeo.com/clevo-mirror/ UN/PW: repo

As to the BIOS you can grab that there as well.

 

Thank you so much, thank you.

 

@ bagster

Looks like I might have been off on my response as the P5000 seems to be the video card and not a laptop model. The repo won't do much for you on that front.

If you can clarify the device you're looking for info on it might be possible to track something down.

 

I am searching for a bios dump - but not the nvflash dump - an eeprom programmer backup for the Nvidia Quadro P5000 mobile.
And some high quality photos of the lower part of the GPU.

The first two images are what the card looks like and the last two images is what i would need.
I have to check what the following components are:
Front side - Q5 Q6 Q7 U7 U8
Back side - U503 U505 U508 Q508 Q509.

 

Unfortunately I don't have much info on the specific spots you're looking for. I ran into an issue on my car NAV though were I might have needed to do the chip flashing method for recovery but, found a work around.

Assuming you're either repairing or modifying this GPU?

Looking at another post here this ties back to a model p150sm which would allow you to use the repo site above for the schematic. The issue might still come down to the specific points you're looking for might not be as detailed since it's Nvidia. Docs on GPU's are hard to come by due to the limited options being AMD / NVIDIA and keeping things secret for competitive edge.

As to the FW / SW / BIOS though I would potentially think mining sites might have some more resources. Dealing with GPU minutia takes some creativity when looking for solutions.

 

Gotnit, thank you for your help and advice. The plan is to modify a tesla p6 into a quadro p5000m.

 

Well, you should be able to find some files you need on the repo for the card. Seems like an endeavor to convert from one line to another. If you have the time to do it vs buying a P5000M it might be worthwhile. My car nav uses a Tegra which lead me down the same path for a little bit before changing course for something different. They disabled the Google Maps function and I was looking for a hack to reenable them bypassing the OEM server connection over 3G. I ended up just putting an android screen / head unit onto the OEM solution instead as I didn't want to completely brick the system. Bumped the screen size from 6" to 10" in the process with adding touchscreen functionality as well. These projects though can be fun yet daunting to deal with.

 

Well, I would not do this, but i got the card for cheap, a quadro is arround 700 to 1000€ , and the tesla is evem more expensive, but I got my hands on a "defective blade server" and pulled one of the cards out and solld it. The cardni pulled is the p6 tesla. It tests ok, so I have some spare time , and told myself, why not?
Modding is so much fun, thinking a bit outside of the box, it calms me down and gives me reasons to keep practicing diverse tings.
Nice to heare your project was a success.

 

That's reason enough to take a stab at it in my book. The head unit / android thing ended up being in the same ballpark. Hacking the OEM solution as I worked through it wasn't worth the risk though with failure potentially costing thousands vs the screen at hundreds. An interim project was converting the aging PATA drive in it to mSATA for reliability / speed was had for ~$50. Car systems are so intertwined though as this one has fiber links from the ECM to various systems that link together. For instance when redoing the wiring to install the head unit tripped an air bag light to come on. I was able to reset that with further upgrades that required ECU flashing to unlock another 150HP in addition to the mechanical upgrades I did to boost output.

 

So, from my understanding the headunit acts as an ECU at the same time, or am I getting this wrong?

 

It doesn't act as the ECU but, it ties into the ECU for engine stats on the display module. The Android HU plugged into the CAN BUS for these readings directly instead of picking them up through the HU cabling. The fiber system as you can see runs through out many different functions of the card in a loop from the ECM/ECU to the HU to virtually everything else in the car. I had to turn on the ignition while fiddling with the various harnesses to get them all tied into the systems they needed to be. The ignition cause the air bag light because it couldn't communicate for a self test while the dash was ripped apart to feed the different wiring harnesses to where they needed to be.

When I did the ECU flash to gain the extra power from the mechanical changes I made it cleared the fault w/o having to deal with the dealer $$$. Basically #2 got replaced with the Android 10" unit. It plugged into #12, #5, #3, and then I rigged it's antennae functions through the existing wiring for the sharkfin antenna on top by using adapters to feed into the FAKRA wiring that already existed.

 

Just an FYI if you're interested in NOT pasting down the road.

I got the pads in today and installed them a little while ago. The fans seem to be running at lower RPM's since it's not as hot. I trimmed less then a 1/4 of the pad size for each CPU / GPU and slapped the heat sink back on and put it back together. I didn't bother cleaning it as well as I have in the past and simply took a paper towel to the die's and got as much off as possible. The Antec was still tacky after 11 months of use which is a good indicator of the quality but, the pad option so far seems to be running cooler or more efficiently.



Of course this has bitten me in the @$$ praising something soon after applying it to the laptop but, having used them in the server for a few years now I have some more certainty about these working in this application. I ordered the 40x40 2 pack since the LGA1700 for the server rebuild is bigger than the LGA1151. Since these things are so thin it's easy to mark them around the die with your finger nail and then cut them w/ scissors to size. Could probably get away being a little less exact about it and just cut them into 1/4's and stick them on top of each die.

Not that my laptop is loud but, Chrome seems to peg the CPU @ 25% or so and keeps the fans running most of the time for the past few months and I'm sitting in the range where they would normally be running 50-80% and it's silent ATM. It's kind of nice not having the fans making much noise again.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BL3SCWH