***Gigabyte P34W v3 "Phantasus" owner's lounge***

Thats exactly the setup I have, SSD for OS and games, HDD for storage.

If you have upgraded to 10 then you don't need to use the recovery as that contain windows 8.1. Download the media creation tool for Windows 10 and create a bootable USB stick. It will pick up your embedded product key and activate itself.

Yes a clean install does mean you'll need to reinstall the programs again but in my opinion, this is still the best way to go as you'll save that 20GB of recovery partition and you'll have the cleanest possible setup. Once you have everything setup just the way you like it, then I would create a backup image. That way, if anything goes wrong in future, you'll have a fully setup, backup to reinstall.

 

thanks for the help. so create a bootable windows 10 usb stick put in new SSD and reinstall off USB and then reinstall all the programs on the HD again....Aw man I just finished installing everything and getting it all the way I like it

I might just keep swapping games over from the HDD until I can be bothered to do all the reinstalling of my software again.

 

btw when I turn the computer on the wifi by default is turned off and I need to manually turn it on via the keyboard button. is there a way to have it on by default?

 

Funny, I've been having that issue too but I assumed it was because I updated my BIOS so a setting was turned off somewhere however, I've not had a look yet as I've been using the desktop recently. I'll check tonight and come back to you.

 

Hi all,

Wanted to check in on what everyone is doing thermal paste-wise.

I know that @bkvamme did an awesome comparison, but as someone who has never done a pasting before, what would you all recommend?:

• IC Diamond - I heard that this works, but is very difficult to take off and shaves off the face.
• Liquid Pro - Looks like these are the best results so far, but I know it's the most difficult to remove (requires sanding).

For someone who's new to pasting, is it perhaps better to just go with Arctic Silver 5 or MX-4? If in the case I end up putting too little and have to repaste, what is that process like? Would AS5 or MX-4 be the same process as the initial repaste from the stock? How would ICD7 or LP differ?

PS I've been using this video of a p34G repasting for reference, which I believe I found earlier in this thread.

 

I think i solved the issue with wifi adaper needing to be manually turned on everytime you boot or wake the computer.

go to http://www.intel.com/p/en_US/support/detect download the driver utility and use it to update the drivers. also I changed the advanced power settings for each power plan to have the wifi card always set to "maximum performance".

now wifi is automatically on whenever I boot or wake

EDIT. NOT FIXED IF YOU TURN THE COMPER OFF AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AFTER SOME TIME!!

EDIT 2 = fixed it by going in to the bios and wifi adapter and enabling an option that was disabled.

 

Well, I was planning to overclock my RAM (considering this is a Gaming Machine), but I could not find anything in BIOS to allow me to overclock. I have the v4. Does anyone know if a BIOS has been released that will let you modify your timing/freq for the SODIMMs?

 

You'll find the options in the bios very limiting however, there is a thread about "unlocking" the bios for the P34G, some have used the unlocked options to reduce or even completely rid themselves of throttling amongst other things. The unlocking method has worked for P34W v3 users so I would guess it would work for you too but be warned, do so at your own risk.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/gigabyte-p34g-unlocked-bios.738723/

 

Thanks, this should help. I will see if I can get this to work!

 

Well, the 5Ghz network isn't working at all. It worked when we set up the router, but has since completely stopped working. None of our devices can connect to it.

You heard of this issue?

 

I've run into another issue.

My HDMI port is extremely flaky. I have a 1,5 meter cable which is annoyingly short, so I bought a 5 meter one, issue is, I simply can't get it to work.
When I plug it in, it registers the TV on my laptop, but there is no picture or sound on the TV.

The cable works when my housemates test it, so it's not the cable.

I remember having a similar issue when visiting a friend and we were gonna stream a movie. We couldn't get it to work, and after an hour of testing, updating, rebooting etc, we just gave up.

When I use my short cable, it never works if I plug it all the way in. It's as if I have to put it 1mm from being all the way in, then it works. I assumed it was the cable, not the laptop - but I'm starting to think it's the HDMI port on the pc.

 

got a universal power adapter for work so I wouldn't have to carry the adapter back and forth.. did research and got what I thought was the correct adapter for the laptop...

everything worked fine for the first day then suddenly both power adapters have stopped charging the laptop. They power it ok, but won't charge... just get a message "not charging". have googled and tried everything suggested. can only think the universal adapter messed up the battery...?

UPDATE: I unplugged the laptop let the battery go down to 90% and plugged back in and now the battery is charging up again like normal..
is there something where the battery does not charge unless it goes below 95%? or something?
the battery was at 97% when I was plugged in but getting the "not charging" message

UPDATE2 yes apparently this is normal
https://www.reddit.com/r/techsuppor...ailable_plugged_in_not_charging_you_son_of_a/

 

Ya that's a great feature to prolong the life of the battery.

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So I was finally able to repaste my P34 v4 with Liquid Ultra and I saw significant drops in temp when running 3D Mark11.

Originally, the CPU would hit 95c, but did not have any throttling (which was still good), but after repasting it would stay under 90c. Typically around 87-88c

However, one thing to note, I did not see any performance improvement. I am sure if I overclock I could get better results, but from others repaste information it seem like they saw improvements with just repasting.

I am at ~ P8900 running balanced power mode and fans on gaming. Everything else is set as defaults. Before and after the pasting the value are approximately the same. Did anyone else see improvements with just repaste or did you have to do any performance tweaks?


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Well, talking about temperatures and thermal paste...Anyone here encountered very "odd" results with the Arctic Silver 5?

I decided to give that paste another go today and...Boy, that was interesting! Last time I tried was a month and a half ago: it worked pretty well for the first few days (weeks?) but suddenly I realized I was having bad temps again: turned out I didn't put enough paste and some part of the CPU was almost exposed, with almost no paste.
Bear in mind I had to purchase a new tube on amazon, since I'm back in the US (the other tube stayed in France: I didn't feel like carrying that on a plane, might have looked suspicious ). So I did the repaste, went into XTU, set the multiplier to x36, voltage to -60mv (Dynamic CPU voltage Offset...Frankly, I don't see any difference between setting that one to 0 and -60, I might try to put it at -70, but that's another story) and...As soon as I launched the stress test, the temps automatically skyrocketed to 95°C with a lot of throttling! I literally stopped the test after 5 seconds. I tried it a few times later tonight, with the same results.
While I know you should let the paste set for a bit, it didn't go anywhere near those temperatures at all when I applied it in France (I did a quick test on XTU right after I applied it, back then).

Got rid of it and applied some Antec Formula 7 (found at my local Staples), which is the paste I have normally been using for years. 75°C on XTU during the stress test with the same settings.
...
So either my Arctic Formula is faulty (or different from the one in France), either I did an awful job applying it this time (huge air bubble somewhere?), or either Antec Formula 7 seems to be a better job on my P34W. I might give it another try with the other tube I have in France, but geez! You have no idea how worried I was for a moment, thinking I had actually broken something or damaged the CPU or something!

 

upgraded the ssd and having this problem.....

created a windows 10 boot usb from microsoft site
replace old ssd with new ssd
everything goes well
then windows asks for product key.
put old ssd back in and find key, then deactivate key on old ssd
go to new ssd put in key and get this message "this key can't be used to activate"

wtf

 

Well, looks like by upgrading my RAM to 16GB increased the score by about 600 -700 points. Now I am at P9600 with no changes through XTU and running balanced power.




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Really? Looks like I'm going ram shopping. Maybe because it's running dual channel now. I wonder if you would get the same results if you put in two 4 gig sticks.

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Ah dammit, after not having any of the wobbling issues, dodgy mouse buttons, dead GPU or anything it seems I have now developed an issue...

My right hand side hinge seems to have come loose but not in a "just tighten that screw" kind of loose. It's the kind of loose that makes me think a mount is broken.

Thing is, I use my desktop most of the time so the laptop really doesn't get used so much and I'm always careful with it, it always lives in a case when not used and I'm not one of those people that picks a laptop up by the screen (that actually enrages me more than it should!).

Doesn't look like much in the picture but trust me, its worryingly loose and warps the screen when adjusting. I only got it in June. Seeing about a warranty repair as I type...

 

I have seen tha tissue before in the p35wv3 thread I think.

It's like the bezels are popping out right?

 

Yeah that's right, a chap called "Anon" (I think!) also had this issue earlier in this thread. He noted that he heard a crack as if something broke, I think I've discovered it before that stage but still not good.

 

I think it has something to do with the adhesive letting loose because of the heated vents on the back. THat part of the screen gets fairly hot. If you open and close it after stressing the laptop the adhesive will loosen up.

 

Same thing just happened to my v4 after about 2 weeks. So I just got the RMA for Gigabyte. Hope this does not take to long. Need it back. At least repair depo is in SoCal where I live.


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Ah sorry to hear that, the repair shop is in the next city for me but I'm in the UK so should be a quick turnaround (hopefully!).

Just waiting for the go ahead on the repair and then I'll send it off....

 

Got the Razer Blade power adapter now. It works perfectly in Europe with 240 Volts and form factor is just awesome...

 

They have been out of stock in the US for a month. I am waiting for them to go back in stock so I can buy one.


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They would but that listing has some conflicting information (says 1333Mhz) but the sticks are 1600Mhz and 1.35v.

I personally bought these and would fully recommend them (cheaper too) but I'm not sure how available they are where you are...

http://www.ebuyer.com/646128-hyperx...-kit-of-2-1-35v-hyperx-impact-hx316ls9ibk2-16

 

I was hoping somebody knew how to stop the HDD in the P34w from "stopping".

It hasn't annoyed me too much until now. I just started playing DOTA, and every once in a while, the HDD will need to load something, so the entire game freezes for 1 second, which can be extremely aggravating in a multiplayer competitive game.

I could have sworn that I saw a guide on here on how to fix this issue, but I can't find it, so perhaps it was somewhere else. Tweaking the windows power settings doesn't work at all.

Anybody else know about this issue?

On another note: What ram does this laptop use? I just saw the post about the massive performance improvements by installing a 2nd stick, but can't really find anything about what stick would match this one.

 

Thanks. Sadly I live in Malaysia, so I'll need to find another place to purchase them, since there's a huge tax on importing tech from the US.

 

Yeah, I posted about it in August.

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...us-owners-lounge.772517/page-59#post-10062632

It seems to be a head parking issue, not a disk spindown (sleep). The few times the disk did spin down, everything froze for 3-4 seconds as it spun up, not the shorter 1 second I was experiencing several times a minute..

Tweaking the APM setting with CrystalDiskInfo will work, but the setting resets after a couple reboots and you have to do it again (I never did figure out a pattern to it resetting). The wdidle3 tool will probably work, but WD redesigned their website in September and the page to download it disappeared. It's included on the Ultimate Boot CD though (you'd need something like that anyway since it needs to be run under DOS). I'll leave it up to you to figure out how to convert the boot CD to a bootable USB flash drive.
http://www.ultimatebootcd.com/

To reiterate: I have not tried wdidle3. It should work, but I can't confirm it works.

In my case all my programs and games are on a 512GB SSD. The problem only showed up when I tried moving the pagefile to the HDD. Once I moved the pagefile back to the SSD and deleted it from the HDD, the problem went away. It sounds like you have your games installed on the HDD though, so give CrystalDiskInfo or the Ultimate Boot CD a try.

 

Hi everyone,

I have a P34w v3, so far I have had a hdd failure and the screen bezel issue. Both time the gigabyte support was efficient in treating the problem.

Since I got it back after the screen reparation, it seems like the right fan (CPU side I think) is not working anymore(no air flow outside the right vent)...I looked and the fan does not seem to be stuck. Do you use a software to see the fans rpm? I tried speed fan and hwinfo but fans are not detected. Before sending it back I would like to be sure there is nothing I can do.

Thanks


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Well if you just want to see if they are running I would just run the unit without the rear cover and connect a display so you can run 3D mark.


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Thanks @faustiano, that did the trick. Fan working but the vent was a bit obstructed hence the impression no air was coming out


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Can somobody of the P34W Owner ansers my specific questions:

I want to use this Laptop as a replacement for my old desktop PC. So:

- Is the LAN Port "Wake on LAN" capable? Can I power on the Notebook with an WakeOnLan Signal?
- As the Laptop has only one HDMI and one VGA port, it is not possible to connect to two screen with digital input, right? Is it at leat possible to connect one screen by VGA and one by HDMI as an extended desktop ? (I am not interested in cloning)
- There is no "Dockingstation" oder "Portreplicator" available, right?

 

Anyone know of anywhere that sells replacement keys? My d button is pretty broken right now

 

- I am not sure about wake on LAN. I know it has RTC wakeup. I did not see WOL in BIOS.
- you can connect HDMI + VGA in extended mode. You may be able to use a VGA to HDMI adapter to connect to two HDMI panels but I have not tried that.
- there is no docking station that I am aware of.




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Thanky for your reply ... two more questions:

Can you tell me something about the stealth mode for the fans? Can you here them while it is in this lowest mode?
I will do often some office work where I defintily do not need the power of the laptop, but I need silence! ;-)

What is the notebooks surface? Is it metal / aluminium?

Can I add an m-sata stotage by myself, if I order one without an ssd? I want to have mor than 128GB ... what are the specs? m-sata SSD half or fullsize?

 

Regarding Multiple Screens

You can connect up to 4 screens to the Gigabyte P34W. Newer users can do it with DP daisychaining, I believe, but I have achieved a similar result with USB 3.0 adapters, such as the ones from Plugable.

The latency of screens running via USB 3.0 is high, though. It's not so bad for 1080p screens, but anything higher and your mouse will lag a bit. Not bad enough during general use, but definitely not fast enough for gaming.

 

Urgh, it would seem a fault has developed on my screen. It only shows up on dark backgrounds/windows (i.e if I put a word window over it, it doesn't show through) but it is showing up nonetheless.

I am "living with it" at the moment but I can see me having to RMA if it gets worse. (pic attached I hope)

 

Thanks for your respones.
As I could see, v5 is coming this month and has a USB 3.1 port.
A had contact with gigabyte to clarify, if it is possible to use this USB 3.1 Port for connecting displays directly to the graphic card (The USB 3.1 specificationm allows that defintly ... MSI gaming notebooks do that also).
That would be realy great! I will get an answer tomorrow ...

 

Just bought my Gigabyte P34W v3 a few weeks ago. Loving it. But bezel has a huge problem. The outer part of the bezel is split at the bottom and now the bottom part of the bezel is bending whenever I open or close the lid. Anybody else has the same problem? Is this a defect, and can I get it fixed?

 

Apologies, the entire bezel might have been an exaggeration. It's the bottom part of the bezel. I will take a pic asap

 

So, I've had my P34W for a little bit more than 6 months now. I'm very satisfied with it, except for one thing: CPU temperatures when gaming. I have the feelings my temperatures have simply been going up and up and up over the course of these months and I can't put a finger on what might be causing it. Both fans work, the laptop is sitting on a cooling pad...Now if only I could find a way to cool the top part, near the power button (the part that gets hotter).

From reading posts on this forum, I have the feeling that simply undervolting the CPU on XTU solves most the issue: that's not the case for me. Right now, if I launch the stress test with the default settings on XTU, I would reach the 90°C in a matter of seconds: repasting solves the problem but for a few days only.
When gaming, I have to underclock: it's impossible to play with the cores set to x36 as it will overheat and throttle extremely fast. x25 seems to be the maximum I can get in some games. For some others I will have to lower the CPU even more: the Witcher 3, Soma, I had to lower it to x15 sometimes, otherwise it would throttle after 15-20 minutes of game, or so.
Only time where temperatures seemed okay was when I was using it in Vietnam, in the middle sumer, when it was more than 30°C!
I just don't get it. For a moment I thought it was the external hardware (two extra screens, a USB hub, USB hard drives here and there, mouse and keyboard), but nope, unplugging it doesn't change anything.

Note: I don't think I have ever updated the Bios, so could it come from that?...Smart Manager (which I have never updated either) shows I'm using the FB04/F002 Bios. The reason being I'm not very tech-savy: as they say "if ain't broke, don't fix it", and I have never ever updated a Bios in my entire life. From what I heard, flashing a Bios voids your warranty, so if you screw it up then you're mother board is good for trash...And I'll pretty much be purchasing a new laptop. I'm not taking that risk, I'd rather live with higher temperatures.

It's not a "huge" issue because I no longer game as much as I used to, busy with life and stuff, but well, still...

 

Name's Richard. Sorry for the late reply, was on vacation for a few days. Just wondering how do you upload photos on this forum? I cannot seem to find a way.

 

Hi everyone I bought my P34W V3 2 months ago, basic version and upgraded with 256 msata and 500gb ssd and repaste with ic diamond,re paste allows processor to go for higher clocks but it is stiIl boiling at 95-96c It is a shame I have to downclock to around x27 to remain under 90c and here is my question what about this all free space around the cpu can I put there something like termo pad ??? obviously it will give up some more heat to the heatsink, what do you think ??
https://www.flickr.com/gp/137140560@N07/Teb60G

 

Hi Xss
There is no risk updating your bios, there should be punish for not doing that.. all new software are made for new bios so you need to update it as well like the other apps . With the temps ... well everyone trying them best to cool this monster down but it seems impossible to let him run on his highest clocks .......

 

I agree. There is no risk of updating your BIOS using the official gigabyte flashing tool. I highly recommend updating it because there has been been a few fan firmware updates that come with the BIOS updates which will definitely affect your temps.

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Ok, I think I will try updating it then. I just don't know want to do anything wrong, how should I proceed exactly? I mean, is it as easy as simply launching the Gigabyte Smartmanager, then cliquing the FB05 Bios (I suppose that's the latest Bios, correct?) and "voilà", or are there more steps involved such as "laptop is going to reboot once, then the Bios screen will appear, then you'll have to select this option and that and click ok, then the laptop will reboot again, etc...and if you do it wrong, you fool, then the motherboard will be dead!"?
Any known issues after updating the Bios ( such as this one on the P34gV2) that I should be aware of?

As for the temperatures...I'm very tempted on getting some Liquid Ultra and giving it a try: I recently spoke with someone who just got the laptop and can play the Witcher 3, with the cores set to 2.8, -60mV and barely reaches 82°C...

 

It's very simple. Just click the update in the smart update manager, click OK on the flash tool prompt, the laptop will reboot and you're good to go.

As for that guy you linked to- I actually have a p34gv2 and have never had such issues, even after modding my BIOS to enable the hidden settings. He must have flashed the BIOS that's meant for 32 bit windows or something.

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Ok, thanks. I'm still a bit hesitant because I remember changing something in the Bios settings (I think it was to have Macrium Reflect working: the boot CD wasn't working). Not entirely sure of what I did, but it was somewhat similar. And since I am not a Bios expert I am afraid of running into a similar issue and being clueless how to fix it: I would hate to have to send the laptop back to have it fixed, since I am leaving in a few weeks to Europe (bought the laptop in the US). I might wait until January to give it a try, when I'll be back to the US, just in case :/...