Problems? See this thread at archive.org.
Hello everyone!
I just got my Aorus x5 V6 (had to return a x7 V6 DT because "E" key and "End" keys were activating all on their own).
Everything about the X5 V6 is great, except my wifi card disconnects when I load into Overwatch. I can do speed tests before going into the game and I get 30 Ping, 30 mb download, 20 mb upload. But as soon as I load into a match. The Killer Wireless 1535 freaks out. I get massive lag spikes and disconnect very quickly upon the GPU and CPU getting an increased load. I noticed another review on NewEgg that had the exact same issue. The person ended up returning it after troubleshooting it a ton.
I have uninstalled the preinstalled driver. I have reinstalled the driver from Aorus. I have installed the driver from Killer's website. I have tried just letting windows install the driver after uninstalling the drivers from Device Manager. The other person with this issue also did a clean install of Windows 10.
I read on another forum post for an Alienware 15 that it is because of Killer Wireless's driver being unable to install correctly with Windows 10.
Here is the NewEgg of the person with a similar issue:
I will be returning this if I can't figure this out. Shame. Such an amazing laptop.
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I think your customers have been having these issues since the first machines were released, and now we are in 2017 and your are still talking about issueing a fix
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In order to build the trust of the community back you need to get this resolved
, i am expecting my next notebook which has a killer card, i hope i am not disappointed.
Athonline likes this. -
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I've been using this solution since the previous post I made, and I can confirm that everything is working fine. I've transferred over 400GB of data with no issues, and I've done plenty of browsing, video watching, etc.
For the people having issues w/windows reinstalling the driver after you delete it, make sure you have the box checked to delete the driver software as well:
What will happen is that windows will attempt to reinstall it again, but will only have older driver software (4.??), so when you go to use the driver that Thomas provided, it will be seen as an upgrade and will be accepted.
Let's hope the Killer team can get a new driver out there that works this time!hmscott likes this. -
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So many times I see otherwise great laptops returned just because there is an incompatibility with the Wifi.
Sometimes debugging like this works, sometimes not - incompatibilities vary across routers, AP's, etc to specific Wifi cards and environments...
Did you check your router for a firmware update? Go directly to the vendor site, don't rely on the autoupdate on the router. Check the forums if there are others complaining about 1535 compatibility with your router / AP.
I didn't see anyone suggest checking for the Wifi landscape - what other AP's are sharing your channel?
Use a tool like inSSIDer 3.x (still free), to see what channel is clear for you to set your router / AP. Quite often channel 3 / 6 is default and all it takes is 2 or 3 other routers to be on the same channel to put your Wifi off stable.
http://www.techspot.com/downloads/5936-inssider.html
You might want to move from 2.4ghz to 5.0ghz to avoid congestion too.
If all else fails, if you otherwise like the laptop, swap out the OEM Wifi card with what at the time is the most successful Wifi card for compatibility, and that would be the Intel 8265. Either you can do that or get a vendor to swap it for you.
Until you can organize the Wifi card swap, get a USB Wifi dongle - if possible the matching Wifi dongle from the same maker as your AP / Router wifi. That way you can be sure it's compatible.
I wouldn't return and give up on a laptop I really like just because the Wifi card isn't compatible
improwise likes this. -
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Arguing about how things should be vs. how reality actually exists is very popular, frustrating, and not usually the path toward a successful conclusion
But, I do understand the frustration. I've dealt with the reality for so long I accept it without a second thought.
If Wifi isn't working, there is a reason, and my thought process starts with "what is the least software / hardware change I can make right now to get online and back to the real focus of my time?"
Usually I pull out a dongle I know is compatible with the observed AP / router, plug it in to an extended USB cable to get better reception, and get back to work.
Arguing with IT staff about how it should work vs. the fact that it doesn't work is a sure way to be shown the door, I've seen it happen to others.
Usually they get that functionally focused change of mind before the door hits their ass and they turn around and keep their job, but not all the time.
When it comes to home, recreational use, some get their frustrations out throwing a hissy fit - making the world rotate around them - instead of taking the responsibility to make their environment adapt to fit the new hardware.
It's a POV issue - center of the universe is mis-placed - reset and get real, and fix it.
Now, I'm not being overcritical with you to chase you away, I'm hitting you over the forehead with a 2x4 so you can wake up and avoid returning a perfectly good laptop because of something that you can fix at your end.
Pick a different center channel for your Wifi, or change bands, update your router, you already have the latest "no drop" drivers from Killer, and see if that helps. Turn off Bluetooth to see if that's interfering - I've seen designs where this happens.
Someone else also mentioned problems with distance connecting with their Aorus, and they think it might be a poor internal antenna. You can get a USB extension cable - mines 3 meters - and put the dongle on the end to place high and into a good reception zone outside the laptop.
And, then do some research on how to swap your internal Wifi card - and maybe look for new antenna wires to connect to the card that you can dress internally for better distance. The 1535 has a larger range than the 8260 - I haven't seen a comparison with the 8265 yet.
And, remember, this is supposed to be fun
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That's awesome!
After many years of ever changing Wifi protocols, I now look forward to new Wifi technology in my laptops / phone / appliance, as it's an opportunity to get a cool new router, maybe even a new cable modem with higher speed internet, Wifi dongles, and an enjoyable time learning new protocol features and their optimal tuning.
Please come back and let us know how it all works out
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Lots of good questions, and you probably have figured out the problem, distance / obsticles / interference are the usual suspects for dropping down in protocol speeds with the added annoyance of dropped connections.
You say you have a ROKU box on the same channel, I would try powering that off first. They are streaming boxes, probably while in use fighting for the channel, and perhaps keeping connection all the time - which might interfere.
I know it's likely still antenna issues - but I like to remove "all" the other possibilities first before spending too much time fixing something that might not *require* fixing.
Your router could have a weak signal, perhaps set to lowest output on purpose by the original installation - even cheap routers usually have 3 settings, Low, Med, High - and some have entries for precise settings including decimal points. Try checking your router for a power setting.
Your Windows setup has a power plan Advanced settings, disable all network power down or power saving options - set for high performance.
Check your wifi adapter in Windows Network Control panel - Adapter settings - and see if there are power settings there - turn off power saving settings.
It's funny you can have a great signal, and good speed, and then the Windows Power settings will up and power off the Wifi in mid transfer just because...
You do know you can pick your own router - you don't need to pay the ISP monthly for the router / (cable) modem - that way you have control over both devices and can make changes and improvements independent of the ISP.
You may need to register the MAC address of the connected (cable) modem with the ISP so they allow it to connect to their network - you can do that on the phone in real time - read out the MAC address on the sticker on the bottom of the modem or router if the modem is built in.
When you get through all of these, let me know what you changed and what effects overall it has.
Last edited: Mar 10, 2017 -
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You found a solution for getting full speed to your AP, and in the same way following these tuning steps step by step you will walk yourself through Windows, Router, Wifi adapter tuning improvements, and eventually arrive at a solution.
Any new laptop will have their own peculiar idiosyncrasies, but all will run Windows, connect to the same AP, and have the same or similar issues Wifi issues - the same tuning applies.
You might as well dig in and get through it all now.
We'll still be here if you change your mind, and when you get your next laptop remember to check out those Windows / Router / Wifi adapter tuning steps for use with it too
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Thank you for the encouragement, and especially what you said about expectations and reality which applies not just to laptops but to life as well. I just want to clarify I do not consider having to sit within 3 meter of access point a solution ( I would like to meet the person that considers that a solution, they must have god-like patience and flexibility
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You didn't mention it here, but in another thread, this is on the 2.4ghz band that you need to be that close, or on 5ghz?
Interference on your current 2.4ghz default channel might not show up on Wifi sniffer program, baby monitors, other private survellience, wireless phones, microwave, and more can all interfere with Wifi on 2.4ghz.
5ghz has the problem of penetration, it can only cover in room and shallow wall room to room coverage.
WiGig on 60ghz used for device or docking wireless connections are even shorter range than 5ghz, closer than you are experiencing with 3 meter distance
Did you get a chance to check power output level settings on the router / wifi card (Prefer High Performance in stead of power saving) - I think even Windows power plan High Performance still has power saving settings enabled.
You might try moving from channel 1/ 3 / 6 default to another channel. Channel 11 works well for me, but it might take you a couple of tries. I understand your ISP provided router / AP might not make that change available to you, but you can ask the ISP to change the power and channel settings - you could ask them to setup the new router/AP as such.
You could also get a 2.4ghz/5ghz USB dongle to try to compare distance coverage, if that is limited in the same way that would help support the interference or low power as being the problem. I do recall you saying your Dell has the same problems - was it distance limited too for full performance? That would indicate an interference or power limit on the router as well.
I have run into laptops with poor internal antennas, so that is also still a possibility, but you can't verify that just by guessing, you need to try external Wifi dongles to compare to isolate the problem.
I see you are going to try for a few more days, have an 8260 coming (why not a 8265?), and Killer is still in the loop.
I'm looking forward to seeing your fix to the problem
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How are any of the tuning suggestions for the router, wifi card, or Windows "messy", they are all standard tuning options.
Just because other things are working fine doesn't lump a big FAIL on another device that needs tuning, and you don't know what the problem is yet either.
So far Wifi hasn't stopped me from doing my job or getting through a Wifi bottleneck, and I did that by getting my hands messy digging in to solve the problem, and learning what's what about each of the components, and getting the most out of them.
It's really not that hard or messy, and once you give it a try you'll find it's well worth the efforts.
If you don't want to be troubled to do tuning and troubleshooting then that's fine, many don't, and they send back their laptops and find something else.
Aorus X5 V6 -- Killer Wireless 1535 Disconnecting Under Heavy Load
Discussion in 'Gigabyte and Aorus' started by GizmoSlip, Jan 8, 2017.
