Asus UL30VT FAQ / Official Owners Lounge redux

nevermind..seems like a common issue..

 

You may have the same WI-fi card I had. This came with only single socket for antenna so you can check quickly by removing drive bay door and inspecting edge of card. Each antenna needs own socket. Unless you have issues, do you really want to risk your 2 year warranty by removing the warranty sticker to "tear apart laptop"?

Right click your battery icon. Click on power options then "Choose what closing lid does". You can choose sleep, do nothing, etc.

 

I've been searching for the photos hydra, but can't find them in the massive number of posts. They weren't on the keyboard mod thread http://forum.notebookreview.com/asus/465841-ul30-backlit-keyboard-mod.html could you please show me a link to a teardown of the ul30vt?

a friend told me the macbooks suck air 'through' the keyboard (i.e. underneath keys and eject air from back vent). how does the fan direct air flow to cool the laptop? or is there just a fan pushing air out the LHS vent?

the reason why i ask is that i'm afraid using the ul30 in the zeroshock case will cause a blockage the air inlet. i hope using inside a case doesn't cause too much heating :\

your signature suggests you use the a1 on the road quite a bit are you afraid of hard drive damage? what sort of precautions are you taking?

 

See Dave's tear down guide listed on first page of this thread. On one of the pictures of the keyboard mod, shown with green tape, you can just make out the edge of the fan cut out.

Be very careful with the four clips at top of keyboard! I used toothpicks and thin plastic to shove the clips TOWARD the screen to avoid nicking palm rest. Start at one end, shove flat thin clip that holds keyboard toward screen, then gently pry keyboard up and work across. Movement of clip is maybe 1/16" so be gentle. 4 clips total and you can see the four notches. Take a good close up picture of the clip and post.

I use air and helicopter travel for work. I placed some black felt dots, around bezel, to keep thicker lighted keyboard from striking screen. Other than that I just use small zippered satchel that has padded laptop space and room for drives, passport, ect. I just shove it in overhead and snag laptop, in Case Logic skin, and stuff in seat back till needed.

So, to travel, simply do not let anything mash the screen against keyboard and you will be fine. If drive is off, you will destroy laptop before drive. Spinning drives are very venerable to shock but there are a few drives that are specially built for jolts. Me, I just try to be careful so never had a problem with drives..other that what cat knocked over at the house..

 

Hydra, the issue I have with closing the screen isn't that I'm not choosing the correct sleep,hibernation,standby mode but rather that the laptop chooses to go into ANY mode when the lid is closed 70%. If I leave about a 10-15 degree angle open the laptop turns off. THis is really annoying. Every laptop I've ever had or seen requires the lid to pretty much be closed all the way before the laptop goes into any power save mode.

Also, does opening the monitor to install an extra antenna void the warranty or only if you break the sticker found in near the wifi card itself?

 

Try setting it to do "nothing". Where the manufactures designs the set point of the micro switch is random.

Read Dave's tear down instructions, now ask yourself how do I get antenna to screen. You haven't said if you have the single or dual connector card.

 

I wish there was a way to get firewire on my laptop. need one for my firewire mixer

 

I just checked and it looks like I have a single antenna connector. SO I prob will not mess with that.

If I change the lid to do Nothing then I will have to use the power button to put the computer to sleep. That is worse than dealing with the monitor off problem I'm having. Surely every UL30Vt-A1 has the same location for the micro switch correct? I guess I will just have to live with this annoyance.

 

You can always pick up a firewire-USB adapter for a few bucks on ebay

 

i'm a little skeptical about it. i have a mixer that splits up tracks to different channels, and USB can't do that. heh

 

Well, it doesn't hurt to try. Worst case scenario you lose a couple bux.

 

i think an expansion dock or even the express card slot would have been nice.

 

Can someone please recommend a good FREE hard drive partition manager. Specifically one that allows you to merge two partitions. I tried doing through disk management but was unsuccessful.

 

Just installing windows 7 clean.. but having no joy...
:S nvidia graphic driver downloaded from asus site hangs halfway through the installation.. and everything hangs from then on..erghh..

does anyone know what that (ul50) patch on asus site does? for graphics driver?

 

What Oh What did we do wrong here, I ask?

I have installed Windows 7 Clean on this machine about 5 times, maybe 6 or 7 if I really counted all the tests and installs I did when I first got the 160GB SSD, Cloned the HD also, all with 100% success, so I am sorry to hear of the tale of woe about your installation tonight.

Read carefully, the UL50-patch is nothing for you to deal with on this laptop, it just does NOT apply! Don't use it! If you need to, start over again and reinstall Windows and do it right the next time...it's so simple, really it is. You simply plug in your DVD, crank up the external optical drive, and let her RIP! It installs itself doesn't it? What is it that is hanging you up?

Is it firmware? Have you updated to the latest BIOS? Do you even have a legitimate copy of Windows that you're using? Don't get me wrong there, I don't mean are you using a fake copy, I mean simply is the Windows version you are using the right one for this laptop? Are you using the Recovery Installer from Asus, part number #N3439 V1.0?

It should be just as easy as cake and ice cream, if you are using that DVD to install Windows on the UL30VT series. Try it again... Start over and take it one, step at a time and GETRDone!

Good Luck!

 

Well I just followed the instructions on the first page.. downloaded all the apps and drivers so on.. I have a legit copy of windows 7, but that's doesn't matter right? since the product key is that of the notebook. It's just the files. It's weird it just hangs.. after installing certain drivers.. I've installed windows 3 times in the morning already.. was installing firefox 64bit and it got stuck.. :S that was after a reset.

And then I lost the touchpad and the buttons.. it just stopped working.. installed the touchpad driver and that didn't do much.. had to plug in a mouse. Now I've popped back in the recovery cd and installing everything.. but it's going to take ages.. but touchpad suddenly came back while it was installing some other driver..

Might just pop in the backup dvd I made earlier and put it back to how it was initially. My screen is now all stretched.. hah..



it's weird I've installed windows 7 on my desktop and other notebook numerous times and it's all been smooth as.. and my keyboard on the left side rattles, gives me the $hite.

oh well..

something is definitely wrong here. it's stuck at "welcome" screen while I was using the recovery cds.

Does your ul30vt make a feint HDD (?) reading noise from left side? I can hear it and it's not quite the sound I am use to from using other notebooks or desktops. a feint scratching sound.. maybe I am just paranoid.

OK I will try and do step at a time again and see how it goes.. eee

 

Hmmmm, something aint right is correct...I'm sorry that this is a problem
for you when it should be an easy go of it.

Are you using an optical drive? If so, is the connection through USB and is that connection solid, without any issues, ie good cable and connector?

How about the drivers...did you make your own DVD or couple of CD's with the drivers on them? That's what I did previous to installing Win 7 HP 64-bit, but I've been using the official Asus DVD ROM as above to install the OS, #3439 V1.0, and it works a treat, just blow and go, no issues at all. THEN I custom install all the drivers, and of course leave out all the bloatware completely! Never a problem yet doing it this way.

As to HD noise, sorry, I am using an SSD in this machine so no HD noise for me! It's definitely the way to go if you have a mind to fast machines, but right now that's the least of the worries here.

We've got to find out why the installs are crapping out, and it's probably something simple going on that is corrupting your installation. Are you installing onto the whole HD, ie one partition? Or are you installing onto the C partition and keeping the Recovery Partition intact? I've seen issues with that scenario also, where Win 7 HP 64-bit installs some System files on the WRONG partition and voila! Corrupted install, and all Hell breaks loose after that nothing works, etc.

I always format the whole HD fresh 100%, not a quick format, it can cause problems to do a quick format and then install, as above...and I don't worry about the Recovery Partition because it's available on the DVD ROM I have anyway, if I ever want to make it bone stock again, I can do that...

For a Clean Install I want fresh surface, no old installs on board, and no partitions unless I'm doing a double OS install....then I'll have two partitions of course, but that's the only way I install with partitions...otherwise it's one partition only and install to the whole HD.

Is that making sense for you? I hope it helps, because I don't know what else to coach you about! Should just work!!

Good Luck, and hope you had some better luck this time.

 

Thanks mate.

I did the installation again and it went through fine this time..
installed all the drivers.. left out the bluetooth and the other things for the moment just all the ATK ones and graphic, realtek and wacom. Seems good except.. it won't let me activate windows.. FFS.. I thought it didn't matter what windows cd I used so long as I used the product key under the notebook.. called up microsoft and they are saying I've got it on more than one machine.. I am a bit confused.. oh well..

the only cd I got from this box was driver & utility ver 2.0..
should there be more than this cd?

I am really am having bad run of lucks..

My optcial is the vertical stand asus drive. has good connections and been using it for a while with other computers/notebooks

I downloaded individual drivers and softwares from asus site.

Installing on C partition, I am leaving it as two. So I can use D as scratch disk for Photoshop. So pretty much reinstalling windows on top of previous..

I might just call up microsoft and see if it's OK for me use windows cd that my desktop has but use product key on the notebook. I thought that was the instructions on the first page here.. maybe I missed something and this isn't possible or legally at least.

BAH..

thanks for the help appreciate it.

 

ended up loading up the recovery dvds I made... takes about 1.5hrs.. will just have to uninstall all the bloatwares..

 

Take a deep breath. /at least you made your restore disks

I downloaded W7HP image from digital river, I was not upgrading so my keys are good. Installed then use the tried and true drivers from the included DVD that came with your laptop. I only installed network, video, and needed hot key utilities.
I activated over the phone using the M$ "electro babe" voice software. The voice recognition is excellent; someone did some nice programing there.

You will need to make a list of which drivers and utilities to install. Dave has a nice post/guide about the shovel ware to help you decide on the utilities.

 

Has anyone gotten the SPG carbon skin for their UL30?

I'm on the borderline of getting it and i'm wondering how it looks. If anyone has gotten it can they post a picture of it. Thanks

 

picked up one of these the other day. I swore I would never buy another asus after cheapo hinge/ screen quality of my A8J many years ago. The price was right on the ul30vt-a1 and the build is surprisingly good. I am very impressed however... any way to make the whites more white and less blue?

 

I'm sorry, but have you been to Amazon.com or to newegg.com? That is how to see how it looks, unless you want the "take apart" pictures, which are at the front of the old thread if you know where that is...there are plenty of pictures of this notebook on the 'Net also...just Google "UL30VT pictures" and you'll find anything and everything in terms of movies and pictures of this notebook. It looks great though, so what's the question about how it looks? Fantastic, that is how it looks!

EDIT: Google "carbon skin for UL30 Asus" and see what comes up!

I have the "Piano Black" version with the smaller battery and Intel 1000BGN WiFi (instead of the silver/black version with the larger battery, and Atheros 9285 WiFi, which most folks think is not as good as the Intel WiFi...YMMV), and it's ALL Black, and looks fantastic, 100% of the time. I don't care about it even when it's got a ton of fingerprints on it, you know? It just looks great, so I am partial to the X1 or all-black version.

You also get a 2-year warranty with the silver/back A1 version vs a 1-year warranty with my version, so there are benefits both ways, just get the one you prefer in the equipment and color view and you'll be fine...these are fantastic 13.3" notebooks, the best of the lot bar none. In my review for Amazon.com I called this notebook "The World's Best 13" Notebook, BAR NONE!" After 3 months owning it I stand by those words 110%, this is the best 13" notebook less than $800 in the world, period.

The graphiX engines are unbelievable for such a small 3-pound package...The CULV SU 7300 Core2Duo CPU is a miser on battery, and yet you can overclock it to 1906Mhz via SetFSB (see thread here in this forum about doing this, it's easy and fun to O'Clock your notebook!) and that makes it near 2Ghz, where you can edit music, video, whatever with this small form-factor notebook. I use mine with Photoshop CS3 Extended all the time (8GB of RAM and an SSD HD helps me also, I have to admit) and it hummms along, no problem using filters and writing new animations in Bridge and Sony Vegas 5, it's got plenty of power for all kinds of things you'd never guess this type of notebook could do.

I dunno, show me a better 13.3" notebook and I'll sell this and buy it, but I don't think it exists, this is the one to get! Good luck, and hope you are an owner soon...if you get one come visit us here, and we'll help you out with any issues you may have. That's what we're here for, help you know?

 

For those with HD noise questions - my ul30vt-a1 seems to make a constant running noise - not sure if it is fan or HD - it is like a slight fan noise, but does it all the time, and sounds like it is coming from under my right hand.



mitt

 

any significance jump in performance upgrading from 4gb ram to 8gb?

 

I think that there are two of us in this forum, who have done the upgrade to 8GB that I know of, maybe more, ie some people don't post who have done it.

I posted a WEI index for comparison, which has been posted before, but I think it's in another thread not this one, ie the overclocking thread. Obviously the ability to have multiple programs open simultaneously is increased many fold, and with the SSD I've also turned off the Page file in the SSD, which is now held in RAM when needed.

A combination of factors makes this setup perhaps the ideal UL30VT-series setup, but then again it wasn't inexpensive to do.

The big gains come when working in PS CS3 Extended for example, while having multiple windows open in the taskbar stored for reference, be it my photo viewer program Adobe Lightroom, Bridge, or maybe a dozen web pages that I am using, it doesn't seem to matter. There is a lot of headroom that just isn't available with 4GB RAM, as you will run out of memory at some point with 4GB--while you just do not for all practical purposes with 8GB.

I think most people can and should stick with 4GB for the notebook, because of the cost and the fact that most don't need 8GB anyway, it's just not necessary for 90% of the users here or anywhere else with one of these. I'm just *used to it* also, as my 2nd notebook also has 8GB RAM, a Sony VAIO that is 1 year old now, but still very much viable and a great entertainment package with the BluRay optical drive, HDMI, and 1920 x 1080P HD LCD resolution in a 16.4" screen.

The key to going to 8GB is finding a great deal somewhere and just do it, if you can afford it. I got this 8GB for $257 shipped for example, but YMMV there. eBay seems to be the place to get deals on 1066Mhz DDR3 PC8500 4GB SODIMMs for notebooks, CL7-7-7-20 timing, non-ECC, not places like Amazon.com or the memory dealers themselves, newegg.com etc.

I hope this helps you in your decision about it.

 

Anybody know if they make spare batteries for these yet?

Is so, where can I buy them at?

 

That's pretty much where the HD lives and they spin all the time unless shut down.

Do you work in a small room in a bank? I suspect these small thin notebooks just do not have the sound deadening effect of the 9 pound notebooks. I have to be in a dead quite room to hear the drive from two feet away, YMMV. For perspective, my P6831FX will WAKE the dead form two feet away.

You can throw away the $75 dollar drive and replace it with the silent SSD drives, search forums for reviews.

 

For anyone interested been running some photoshop test on various machines to compare su7300 at 1.9ghz. my friend is getting u30jc soon so i will get him to do a test too.

so far
i7 desktop 3.6ghz 12gb > 16secs
i7 desktop 2.6ghz 12gb > 20secs
Q6600 1.4ghz 8gb > 30secs
macbook 2.2ghz 2gb> 1min
P8400 2.2 ghz notebook 2gb> 1min 15secs

SU7300 1.9ghz 4gb > 48 secs

 

I saw those pics but i was actually looking for some user-posted pics. Sometimes i don't quite trust the company posted ones as they're photoshopped to look better than it is. I'll probably end up getting it anyways since it should look sick with the silver accents on the A1

 

Agree, the money would be better spent on an SSD. However you may be sorry after the first year as Ram or SSD hardware requirements changes or price changes. All depends on your "gotta have it right now" needs?

Here is another take:

The 8GB/64-bit advantage - More RAM doesn't always mean better performance | ZDNet

 

Keep in mind that 8 GB RAM will make your hibernation a lot slower. It's already annoyingly slow with 4 GB.

 

We should point out that this goes against the advice given by battery university...

http://forum.notebookreview.com/asu...icial-owners-lounge-redux-12.html#post6206120

Welcome to Battery University

You can't both be right...

 

I would go with battery university. Not sure what rexrzer is basing his advice off of, maybe older battery tech, but battery university has run extensive tests to prove the merits of keeping your lithium ion battery at ~40% for long term storage, deep discharges are damaging to your battery and topping off your battery (charging from 95% to 100%) is also bad for it.

 

How do you avoid charging from 95% to 100%? Let me guess, if you charge from a low battery it automatically stops at 95%, and then if you unplug it and plug it back in it charges all the way to 100%?

 

Hi All,

I just got my UL30VT-A1 last Friday and love it. Tomorrow I get my OCZ Solid 2 SSD and want to do a clean install. Asus's support page is virtually garbage. No descriptions and lots of questionable drivers etc. Do I need the UL50 VGA Patch that Asus website claims I must install before
I do the drivers? Also how am I to tell which driver are better than others? Why doesn't the Wi-Fi driver page show atheros drivers? Now again I may be blind, but the support website is a bit confusing. Could one of you who has this computer come up with the proper list of drivers and the order in which we need to install them? This would be very useful in the OP 1st post as most of the valuable information is listed there. Thanks all for the support and wonderful forums that got me to buy this laptop.

Cheers,

-Sanmanatoo

 

so far I have

1. Asus ATKOSD2 Util. V7.0.0010

2. ATK Media Util. v2.0.0007

3. ATK Hotkey Util. v.1.0.0056

4. ATK Generic Func. Svc Util. v.1.00.0008

5. ATK ACPI v.1043.2.15.75

6. Audio Realtek Driver v.6.0.1.5958

7. VGA Patch v.1.0.0.1 (is this needed?)

8. Nvidia Driver v.8.15.11.8688

9. Lan Atheros v.1.0.0.14

10. Alcor AU6433 Card Reader v.1.5.17.25482

11. Touch Pad v.7.0.5.10

12. Asus p4gear Hybrid Util. v.1.1.25

13. Azure Wireless LAN Driver + App. V8.0.0.238 (is this for the Atheros Card?)

Anything I missed?

 

That should do it. If you're missing anything it can't be important.

 

If you are charging your laptop from <95% full, the battery should charge up to 100%. Similarly, if you're on your fully charged battery and have used <5% (ie you have more the 95% battery life), plugging in the power will not charge the battery. If you are charging your battery from <95% and want to avoid your battery from charging between 95-100%, you'll just have to pull the plug when it reaches 95%.

I'm not sure I follow this logic. Hibernation is simply the process of copying the data from your ram to your hard drive. It shouldn't depend on the amount of ram you have, but instead the amount of data that is stored on the ram and also how fragmented your hard drive is. Let's say you only have 1 program open that uses only 10MB of ram. If I increase my total ram from 4GB to 8GB, the time it takes to copy 10MB to the hard drive should still be the same.

What exactly is this test? Also, what version of photoshop are you using?

Rexrzer's advice is actually instructions to calibrating a battery - discharge to 0% then charge and top off at 100%. During your daily routine, you should charge your battery when it's around 30-40% full as the Battery University website suggested. However, this method for extending/maintaining your battery life only works for the new Li-ion batteries. If you have an old laptop (non-Li-ion) with "memory effects", it is suggested that you fully discharge your battery before charging it up again.

 

Ok thanks. It is just that the driver have no description. So I do need to install the ul50 patch? Should I just install them in the order I listed them? Any other advice from a seasoned UL30VT owner? Thanks again...

 

Hey OP, +1 for your hard work.

 

You won't need the UL50 patch unless you are reinstalling your graphics driver. The patch is suppose to delete some of the left over registries when you uninstall your VGA driver. If you're coming from a clean install, you wouldn't have to worry about it.

 

I see, well it is true that you should calibrate your Li-ion battery every month/few months as well.

There's no good way to do this on most laptops. Some have ACPI designed to let you control what % your battery starts charging at and what % your battery stops charging at (ie. Thinkpads).

 

I did a clean install so just used the drivers off the DVD, I was in a rush, but used windows Card Reader support which works fine. Are these versions on the DVD? I'm 5,500 miles from the house.. Several readers had problems with higher versions of Asus p4gear Hybrid Utility but think you have the right one.

Yes, the Asus drive page needs a huge revamp. There must be a hundred posts due to driver use issues.

Enjoy!

 

Thanks. This helps.

I never use the included driver CD/DVDs from any manufacturer as they are always out of date. Asus is no exception.

 

Hi,
today i noticed there was a gap between the aluminum casing and the black plastic benzel of the monitor when i opened the lid of my laptop.

it's about 1.5 inches long and makes a clicking sound when i press that part.

Is this serious enough that I should sent to get it fixed? Im just worried that over time the gap will get longer

 

Well it may just be cosmetic but could worsen over time. I would RMA if you are within 30 days of the purchase or send it in to Asus but that could take forever. I had a similar problem with my Alienware M11x and ended up returning it.

 

It's probably just the screws not being tight enough. Take the rubber circular pieces out of the screen bezel and tighten the screws underneath. If it still bothers you, then, would I consider an RMA.

 

is that on the left side? I've got the exact same thing.. took it down to the asus.. for that and the rattling keyboard. They didn't do much.. other than to say it wasn't anything serious. They did make the clicking noise go away but the gap is still there. Very very slight gap tho. I wouldn't have noticed it if it weren't for the clicking sound which is gone now.

my keyboard still rattles but they must have tightened it down or something. only "caplock" and "tab" keys rattle instead of the whole left side. others are pretty solid.

I think these two issues are rather common with ul30vt.

 

Sorry, 8GB RAM has NOTHING to do with Hibernation!


To wit, as explained by David (NBR Reviewer here):

"I'm not sure I follow this logic. Hibernation is simply the process of copying the data from your ram to your hard drive. It shouldn't depend on the amount of ram you have, but instead the amount of data that is stored on the ram and also how fragmented your hard drive is. Let's say you only have 1 program open that uses only 10MB of ram. If I increase my total ram from 4GB to 8GB, the time it takes to copy 10MB to the hard drive should still be the same."

I will take that 1 step further: 8GB of RAM should SPEED UP Hibernation if you have a typically fragmented HD (4-7% fragmented is pretty normal these days for SATA II notebook HD's), and have shut the lid, or put the notebook to sleep with multiple programs open that commands a fair amount of RAM task space.

Color me blind, but I've always maintained that the more RAM the better, so let's not get on an "anti-RAM" kick in this thread, because it's patently ridiculous to consider that sort of thinking. Pure, plain, Jane Simpleton common sense and logic should prevail here or in any thread at notebookreview.com, so let's not get started on things that don't make sense in the first place, and secondly just aren't true.

I have every single computer or notebook I own loaded up with RAM to the maximum, and I'll go down to the cows come home with this thought: "All my computers perform better with more RAM than without OEM RAM, or less than maximum RAM".

Lest I be accused of "promoting things that people can't afford to do" here by the thread's OP, I will list some of those computers and what they are used for, why I have them loaded up with RAM, with the results in parenthesis:

1) PowerMac G5 Dual Core 2.3Ghz Server (M9591LL/A) - 16GB RAM (maximum=16GB RAM) - my studio's principal server (I have two, this one for networking, media, and storage for Macs, and the PC server for same sorts of things on the PC side) that maintains my Mac media library, iTunes and AppleTV Libraries (c.4TB), iPhoto Library, Aperture Library, stock photo library, plus all Mac-centric backup for PowerPC media is stored in this computer.

(quicker boot time, better access time, reference clock time, and better program management and control)

2) OEM PC Build-Core i7 920 CPU 2.66Ghz @ 4.2Ghz ON AIR @ 1.24V VCore - 12GB RAM (maximum=24GB RAM, however 4GB DDR3 1600Mhz DIMMs are unavailable at this time, at any price-- thus 6 x 2GB G. Skill 1600-Mhz DIMMs, the practical maximum) - studio's 2ndary server, maintains PC libraries as above, Adobe Lightroom library, PC-centric programs and storage, plus it's the No.1 production machine with twin eSATA/SAS hardware RAID 0 and RAID 5 volumes via an Areca 1680IX-8 Controller (c.8TB storage)

(quicker boot time, access time, clock time, program management control, and since the computer is overclocked 61% the RAM is matched, ie 2 x 6GB "kits" from G. Skill RAM)

3) Sony VAIO FW-373J/H Notebook - 8GB RAM (maximum=8GB) - PC production notebook w/BluRay read/write optical drive - Sony Vegas, Pinnacle Studio, etc programs for remote jobs, plus media center (ie HDMI to Samsung HDTV display for both work and personal use)

(quicker boot time, access time, program management control)

I could go on, but that is reality with my computers, and what people do with theirs is their own business frankly, not mine. I *need* maximum RAM for my work in those machines above, plus others the same, and I could go back to the 1990's and using PowerPC Macs for media use I still had maximum RAM in those computers too, so this is not a new subject for me or my uses.

More RAM makes computers work better, faster, have more abilities to manage programs and controls, and there is no way I am going to sit back and read about somebody's fantasy with RAM being a bad thing go by unnoticed, because that is BS and ridiculous to propagate.

If this thread's OP has a problem with any of these ideas, I suggest that he take it up with the experts and common sense both, because everybody is going to tell him "The more the better" with respect to RAM in any computer, be it personal or business uses, it doesn't matter.

Having more RAM speeds up computers, in every respect, there is no disclaimer or attributive description to writing those words down: the more RAM any given computer has, the better it will perform, across the board, in any respect, including HIBERNATION or any software issue/function.

What people do with their laptop batteries is also a personal thing, and everybody has their own ideas about this in many respects, but I have a certain base system for my notebooks use, and I have already described it in full so no need to do it again here.

Over the years, with Li-Ion batteries in notebooks for the past 10 years or so, this system has proven to work for me, YMMV, and "battery university" or any other source aside, there are many views about what is right or wrong about how to treat a battery for maximum life, use, and performance. I stand by my recommendations, it works for me, if you wish to use a different method by all means go for it!

I try to use a battery's full charge and will modify my use of any notebook around that idea as long as it doesn't interfere with my work, which of course comes first, so that's where I draw the line about discharging a battery fully, as often as possible during its use. I am not telling people to do things which are contrary to good battery practice, or against common sense or knowledge, and certainly wouldn't argue against a different system or method because it's all relative to your uses, as long as the battery isn't harmed.

Thanks for your comments, they are appreciated, and I hope this helps with understanding my 'battery methods'.