*** ASUS Zephyrus M (GM501) Owner's Lounge ***

It does while gaming, but the point is by limiting it to a high of 3.1ghz instead of 4.1/3.9 GHz, you get the same performance in gaming while creating much less heat

 

so what did you mean by when you said you recommend overboost for assassin's creed what settings do I need to change because I have this game too it is very cpu hungry like you said lol

 

Hello, can someone please upload the eSupport folder for the GM501GS version of this laptop? The one I found online was for a different model and it would not work. Also, is the fan button supposed to have some indication of change or noticeable effect? Whenever I use the fan switch, there is no change and in the Gaming Center switching between Auto and Overboost does not seem to do anything.

 

I have where can I upload it the max on here to upload is 2mb its not big enough

 

Hey all, new owner - thanks for the undervolting tips. BF1 is running 70-120 fps on ultra. Max temps for CPU and GPU were ~80c. I was very close to returning this laptop but overall I am happy with it. I also used the Rog game center app to track my temps while gaming. Pretty slick.

Also - not super specific but I saw a post on here about the microsoft store price in Canada and I called customer support and they just said they aren't selling it with the SSD, so IMO it isnt really a discount. I managed to get mine through ebay newegg canada with one of the recently 15% discount (up to $100 USD). Hope that helps someone.

 

Can I ask you what was the reason?

 

Initially had freezing/micro stuttering. Fixed with latest Nvidia drivers. High temps (90s) with basic games (Cs go, sc2) fixed with undervoltage. Fans are quite loud. No Ethernet port, no sd card.. , lots to consider when you’re paying close to 3,000 Canadian pesos

 

I meant in the gaming centre change your fan profile to overboost instead of balanced. much noisier but much cooler

 

when you change your fan profile, it doesn't mean the fan will turn on straight away. It means (basically that the fans will start ramping up at a lower temperature and higher RPM for that lower temperature. So on balanced profile your fans might be 60% at 60C but on overboost your fans might be 80% at 60C. Those aren't the correct figures but hopefully gives you an idea of what I mean

 

yeah the fans will get a bit noiser faster, but if you use a headset to game, the change won't be as bothersome.

 

Hi, I got my GM501 yesterday (512 SSD, 1070 version). Great machine, although I wish the finish wasn’t a fingerprint magnet. Need to find (or cut my own) 3M skin in the UK I think.

A few questions, if you all don’t mind?

1. I ran Cinebench R15 and my CPU score is higher than Razer Blade 15 and other similar machines. However, my GPU is showing lower. It should be higher due to a full 1070, right?
2. What specific 16GB DIMM does anyone recommend to go with the single 16GB DIMM that comes installed? Dual channel memory can’t hurt...
3. Anyone using the 2.5” MX500? I assume the bog standard one off Amazon should fit just fine in the 2.5 slot?
4. I have some fujipoly in 1.5 and .5mm - what should I cover and or replace with it? Figure I’d do some minor work when I install an updated 2.5” drive and memory.
5. Any tests people recommend I run and report back on to help myself and others?
6. Should I reinstall Windows? I pretty much cleaned it up and got rid of McAfee and other junk, so seems tolerable. Have seem much more bloatware on other vendors in the past.

No dead pixels from what I can see, but the fans do get loud under load...wearing headphones and gaming I don’t notice, though.

Am going to try out my desktop (8700k setup)’s GTX 1080 in my eGPU enclosure and see how much of a difference there is... for giggles, at 3440x1440.

 

Hi everybody Im new here!

I just got this beautiful beast and I like it so far but I have one main issue. I uppgraded both storage drives and ram then I tried to reinstall everything but I just cant get Aura Core to work. Everytime I try to open Aura Core the app wont open and I have tried diffrent sallutions. Everything else in my gaming center works fine, anybody recognise this problem?

 

Might be asking the obvious but did you follow the below instructions from Asus on their download site? I've been thinking about a reinstall but have held off as not sure whether these steps work:

ROG Aura Core Component
ROG Aura Core lets you program different color and customize the lighting effects on the RGB keyboard.

Please note, MUST follow below steps to install the application:
1. Go to MS store to install the latest version of ROG Aura Core.
2. Download and double click the Setup.exe to install the Aura Core Component app.
3. Download and run install.bat as administrator to install the Aura Lighting Service app.

 

Hi Guys,

i need help with optimus mode in asus rog zephyrus m. i updated integrated intel driver via device manager and nvidia driver via nvidia geforce experience.

while in dedicated graphic all is fine, nvidia running as it is designed to, but if i switch to integrated graphic mode, the laptop using both intel and nvidia and the battery is draining same as in dedicated graphic mode.

are both intel and nvidia supposed to run in integrated graphic mode (optimus) ? As i remember before i update intel driver, nvidia not running while in integrated graphic mode.

Please if anyone can help me with this

 

I will try this tonight and see if it works.

 

Do you know where I can find ROG Aura Core Component app and Aura Lighting Service app to download? Cant find it on Asus website.

 

For me (GM501GM), both downloads are in the "Utilities" section of the "driver and tools" tab on the Asus support pages, I had to click "See all downloads" underneath the first utility listed, as the rest were hidden. Hope this helps!

 

Thanks mate, It worked !!!

 

Fellas, can you help me make a decision?

Currently I'm deciding between RB15 and Zephyrus M. I really like how thin the old GX501 was and how silent it was (due to Max-Q). It seems strange to me that they put Max-P version GPU into this instead of the Max-Q version, not only it isn't as performant as the previous version, it is also louder, warmer and thicker. How loud do you think Zephyrus M is in comparison to RB15? I understand that it has more than one fan mode option and the notebookcheck.net review doesn't really reflect this.

I'm looking to use the laptop for studies and work, Linux development and Windows for gaming. I'd like to get DS3 on Max with at least 60 FPS and not a decibel louder than 45. And some spreadsheets, Firefox with 30 tabs, music and VSCode with no more than 35db. Possibly taking notes in a silent lecture theatre.

Could some generous owner elaborate on the noise/performance?

 

GM501GM/GS do not overheat out of the box from the unit's i've seen (AIDA64 + Unigine Heaven), the 8750 holds steady at 3.9ghz.

the RB15 on the other hand is riddled with QC issues, VRM throttling (made to run at 65w for benchmark durations before VRM throttling the unit).

Re: noise, someone else will have to tell you

 

Apparently the new RB15 batches seem to have fewer QC issues.

 

If you are not gaming the laptop won't get loud no matter which one you buy.

It was hard for me to choose but for me the 2,5 inch extra hardrive, slightly better graphics card and best screen for gaming was more valuable for me so I chose the GM501.

If you value battery time over extra hard drive slot then go for RB15 or GS65 but you will get slightly weaker graphics.

I can tell you that I love the GM501 so far and it fits perfectly for my needs. I upgraded the ram to 32gb and replaced the 2,5 drive with a 4tb Samsung ssd so I can stack how many games I want. I also repasted it just to get little better performance out of it.
As far as I know the GM501 is the best performer out of the bunch.

Watch reviews on YouTube, hope that helps!

 

Hello guys, I've basically read the whole thread but still need advice.

I'm in a somewhat complicated situnation (not really, lol) where I mostly got time in the evenings and that's the only time when I cannot use my PC cos of various reasons (chlidren sleeping, etc).

This laptop caught my eye by its oh so beautiful design and dope specs (Looking at the 1070 edition). The only real issue (if it even is an issue) is overheating. I cannot order a repase or anything like that in my country as no stores offer that.

So, is this laptop worth the money? Mostly for programming in Visual Studio/UE4 and playing games such as PUBG, Overwatch, GTA:V and maybe a few more.

Basically, are you, the owners regreting the purchase or enjoying it?

Oh and another thing, which headset do you recommend with it, since it has a combo jack? For the mouse I'll probably get a DeathAdder (Got a Naga on my main PC) but looking for a cheaper alternative and I've used a DeathAdder in the past so.

Thanks guys!

 

Everyone, please read this comment/post if you are having difficulty with high temps with throttlestop.

Ok i just realized why my temperature hits as high as 91-93C CPU and 87-89 GPU Even with the liquid metal + undervolt.
Bob states in the video to set the speed shift to 0. This literally makes the CPU stay at max clock speed the whole time causing heat. This is contraindicated in the Zephyrus M. Follow everything else in the video except the speed shift part. Leaving the speed shift at 128 literally dropped my temps to 78-81 CPU and 78C average GPU.

 

I've seen multiple runs of AIDA64 CPU Stress test plus Unigine Heaven running on the GM501that is in "out of the box" retail state and it's actually one of the very few laptops in 8th generation that does not thermal throttle during that test - even though it's an unrealistic load on the computer it still handles it at 3.8ghz and temps are kept in check around 80c degrees.

 

I'm hitting a CPU of 83C ~ playing BF1 @ Max settings. Is that consider high/will damage the cpu long run or I need to undervolt my cpu? What should be the best temperature range while gaming?

I'm running it in a room on ac around 23-25C.

 

83C is fine.

 

Does anyone know what RAM stick comes with the GM501? It's a 16gb 2666mhz but how is the timing and what brand is it?
Exploring the option whether I need to buy a single 16gb 2666mhz stick or replace with 2x8gb 2666mhz kit since dual rank >>>>> single rank in games.

 

I am using throttlestop. -.125 on CPU and like .-48 (something like that on cache). Was crashing if I took the cache any lower. I have to run some tests, but I have seen the CPU get up to 88C before the fans kick into Concorde mode. . Top surface of the laptop (on top, back towards the screen) is very toasty then.

What is a good test to see if it is thottling a lot? I had some IC Diamond coming and some 0.5mm thermal pads, but not sure if there will be much use for those on this system.

In terms of memory, run CPUZ and check SPD, it will tell you. It was some Hynix 2666Mhz but I ordered a second 16GB stick from Crucial who ‘guarantee’ it will work. Also putting in an EVO 860 and removing the slower Seagate 2.5 drive that came with it.

Generally I do like it, but the top gets very warm. Normal?

 

I don't have the laptop yet, hence my question

Ah shame, retailers here only carry Kingston HyperX so looks like i'll just need to get a 2x8 kit or gamble on the HX426S15IB2/16 to work.

 

Hah! Well, my RAM comes Monday at the latest so I can report if that works fine anyway.

 

Apparently retailers here only carry Kingston HyperX Impact 2666MHz CL15 sticks, granted Crucial sticks are also CL15. So with a gamble it *could* work.

I ordered the GM501GM and will be replacing the NVMe SSD with my 500gb 970 Evo and the 2.5" HDD will be replaced with a Crucial MX300 SSD.

 

Nice! I generally like it. Pre-installed m.2 SSD was the SM961 at least, for me, so pretty decent.

 

The Crucial-recommended 16GB stick didn’t cause any problems. 32 now!

 

Can you check what kind of timings you ended up with? Interested to know

 

CPUz says:

Code:

Memory Type            DDR4
Memory Size            32 GBytes
Channels            Dual
Memory Frequency        1197.4 MHz (1:18)
CAS# latency (CL)        18.0
RAS# to CAS# delay (tRCD)    17
RAS# Precharge (tRP)        17
Cycle Time (tRAS)        39
Row Refresh Cycle Time (tRFC)    420
Command Rate (CR)        2T

DIMM #                1
    SMBus address        0x50
    Memory type        DDR4
    Module format        SO-DIMM
    Manufacturer (ID)    Hyundai Electronics (AD00000000000000000000)
    Size            16384 MBytes
    Max bandwidth        DDR4-2666 (1333 MHz)
    Part number        HMA82GS6CJR8N-VK
    Serial number        81F0569A
    Manufacturing date    Week 05/Year 18
    Nominal Voltage        1.20 Volts
    EPP            no
    XMP            no
    AMP            no

DIMM #                2
    SMBus address        0x52
    Memory type        DDR4
    Module format        SO-DIMM
    Manufacturer (ID)    Crucial Technology (7F7F7F7F7F9B0000000000)
    Size            16384 MBytes
    Max bandwidth        DDR4-2400 (1200 MHz)
    Part number        BLS16G4S26BFSD.16F
    Serial number        70990205
    Nominal Voltage        1.20 Volts
    EPP            no
    XMP            yes
    XMP revision        2.0
    AMP            no

The Crucial memory is supposed to be as fast as the other though... strange.

 

I was going to try a repaste, but two of the heatsink screws were stripped already, so no way to get that bit off. The temps don't seem too bad, though? I have seen 88 in a few odd games, but that is before the fans kick in, and it never actually throttles. At -.125 CPU and -.048 cache at the moment. Not tried undervolting the GPU... need to google.

 

Thanks for the RAM info. Ordered an extra 16gb stick in preparation

 

Try setting both CPU core and cache to the same undervolt, and find the stable 100% load and stable Idle setting there first, before increasing the Core undervolt for "side effects".

 

Thanks, I will try that. I did try both at the -.125 or whatever the CPU is att but it was rebooting, so I lowered the cache until that stopped.

 

Try lowering both at the same time. That way you find the "real" undervolt.

The CPU doesn't actually independently change the undervolt for Core and Cache, it picks the lowest setting TS put's in those registers and uses that as the undervolt for both core and cache.

When you find the "real" undervolt by setting both at the same time, TS can be used to "fake" set the Core undervolt higher and higher, giving a side effect tricking the CPU for a slight bump in performance in some benchmarks, not worth it to for time spent, but for those trying to get the highest "number", this can get a few more ticks higher - nothing you would notice in real use.

Intel's XTU locks the Core / Cache settings since to require the same value since Gen 6, as that's when their CPU's stopped supporting split undervolt settings for core / cache.

Have fun.

 

please share what the settings will work for you please thanks

 

is anyone else having an issue with rog gaming center. As soon as I open it, it closes down within 1 second

 

Each CPU is unique, given the range reported so far, pick something in the middle - say -100mV and test for 100% load stable, then keep upping the undervolt -10mV at a time until unstable.

XTU / AIDA don't seem to be enough to see the subtle initial instability, but prime95 small FFT threads will exit close to the edge of instability, before crashing, most of the time - sometimes a BSOD will happen first there too.

Usually a 5 minute run is enough to see a thread exit, if it doesn't try increasing undervolt again -10mV.

Once you see a thread exit - error out, or get a BSOD then back off +5mV - then test again.

I usually reboot between changing undervolt settings, just to have a clean run - especially if it became unstable and I back off - I reboot then for sure.

The newer CPU's will activate AVX / FMA instructions, running much hotter and drawing more power. It's up to you to decide whether to test with them disabled or not, by default they are enabled.

Exit prime95 and add these lines to the top of local.txt:
CPUSupportsAVX=0
CpuSupportsAVX2=0
CpuSupportsAVX512F = 0
CPUSupportsFMA3=0
CpuSupportsFMA4 = 0

Then reset the current readings in hwinfo64 and restart prime95 small FFT's.

Running prime95 is the best test I've found to see core temperature differentials, the load is 100% and well balanced across the cores, so after resetting the hwinfo64 reading - start the test and run for 5 minutes, then look at the core temperatures - they should be within 5c-6c - max of 10c difference - the hottest core will trip thermal throttling first, so hopefully you don't have an extra hot core.

When you've got the 100% load undervolt stable - try gaming on it, run intensive CPU applications, etc - then after all that, exit all the apps, systray apps, stop background downloads / uploads - make the CPU as idle as possible, and let the laptop sit for a while - 15 minutes should be enough on a truly idle system, letting the CPU ratchet down the voltage to minimum - which can trip an idle BSOD - if that happens reduce the undervolt another +5mV - test idle again and let it sit for a couple of hours - to be sure you could back off another +5mV.

Then you have a real undervolt, both core and cache set to the same setting. I'd stop there, as there seems to be both benefit and detriment to cranking up the core undervolt from here. YMMV.

Have fun.

 

Thanks for the undervolting comment. The stripped screw on the heat sink is really bugging me... I would love to repaste anyway or at least have that option. So, may return and hope the new one has normal screws.

Is there a good test I can run to see if my temps are really anything to worry about anyway?

 

Anything you normally run will give you a realistic view of how your use will heat things up, that's all that really counts in the long run.

But, to stress test for maximum load, often never seen except in unlimited FPS gaming, you can use several increasingly heavy load programs.

XTU has a built in Benchmark and Stress test. I use the Benchmark on each new Profile, run it and then save the Profile - that shows the benchmark result with each Profile listing line - handy to see what the benefit or negative results are with increasing / decreasing settings. The Stress test doesn't evenly load the cores or keep them loaded, but it's a good first test when initially setting values. Keep increasing the undervolt until BSOD or odd result - test doesn't run, or gives lower number than last undervolt.

XTU also has a built in graph with monitoring that you can adjust - click the wrench in the top right of graph to get dialog to set what is collected and displayed - you can even disable all display / collection - but I find it's better to display what I need at most then exit the systray XTU app which does the collection when I don't need it - it starts up automatically (I don't use Windows 10), and I can quit it after boot, only takes second.

There are lots of other things to jump to, but skipping all those I use prime95 small FFT, which kicks things up to maximum (minus AVX / FMA) which usually shows too high undervolt quickly - within seconds or a minute, but a 5min - 15 minute run is good on the last test - after finding the 100% load test and then the Idle test.

prime95 and other details here:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...01-owners-lounge.815303/page-40#post-10776525

Some use gaming benchmarks, some use 3dmark benchmarks, some use Heaven / Valley Unigine benchmarks, but all of those use the GPU too and that can steal power and cooling away - especially on shared heat pipe cooling systems - so they don't isolate the CPU enough to give a good 100% load on the CPU.

I prefer to do a CPU only tune, and then put the CPU back at stock and do the GPU tune (MSI Afterburner), and then try running both maximum tunes at the same time. That can fail in laptops without enough power or cooling, so then you can make a choice - maximum CPU or maximum GPU - and set up profiles for both, to run when the need arises. Of course power saving tunes and their profiles can also be made.

And, don't forget to use RTSS which comes with Afterburner to set up Frame Limiting - set it to the refresh of the display - or 1 less than the refresh of the display if using G-sync, and then disable Vsync. You can also then reduce the FPS further if things get too hot in a particular game - reduce eye candy levels or reduce FPS will take load and heat off the CPU / GPU, reducing fan noise.

hwinfo64 is a good tool to monitor lots of good info on the CPU, GPU, motherboard, storage, etc - and can log data to view after a test run to see just how often the peak temp / power / frequency was hit, often the peak readings can look high when most of the time the CPU / GPU are running at reduced temperature levels. Don't forget to click the reset button on the hwinfo display dialog between runs to clear the max / min values.

Have fun.

 

can someone help with the rog gaming center issue it closes as soon as I open it. I tried reinstalling the software but still same issue.

 

It could be a Windows / Nvidia Update conflict, or one of these potential solutions, seems like a common complaint over time...:

PROBLEM WITH ROG GAMING CENTER
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthre...nter/page2&s=31dab94eafc5f7b36e618bad9b4ae939

ROG GAMING CENTER STOPPED WORKING
https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?98359-ROG-gaming-center-stopped-working

 

Well that was disappointing. Got my GM501 and tried to open it but turns out you really need a proper prying tool, credit card does not cut it at all. Sigh. Of course a prying tool is about the only tool I do not own and it's really hard to find a proper one without having to wait for shipping.

 

Tapered Guitar picks work as prying tools, before plastic pry tools became generally available I'd recommend those, plastic coil tuning tools, plaster or art spatulas. I've used model airplane engine propellers. Hopefully this list will help you see other similar options available to you.