*** ASUS Zephyrus M (GM501) Owner's Lounge ***

Btw anybody did a repaste? I’m planning to use arctic silver 5, is it good?

 

You can do better than AS5 nowadays. Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is your best bet for non conductive paste.

 

But I just bought it....well for the reviews so far, it’s quite good actually
Used to be the best right?

 

The bottom cover is in two parts. There's the main body which covers all the internal components, and then there's the flap that folds out when you open the notebook's lid which in turn lifts the notebook up a little. It's this flap that I'm referring to when I say "Remove the cover plate", because it only covers the intake for the two cooling fans. So, if the lifting mechanism fails, all you have to do is take out four Phillips screws, slide the plate off, and then stick some rubber feet at the back of the notebook. This will allow airflow to proceed as per what you see in normal notebooks.

 

At the top tier of non-conducting thermal pastes, the difference between things like Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut and Arctic Silver is like 1-2 degrees in actual use. If you already have it, you might as well use it... although I personally would worry about the silver content in the Arctic Silver since you might accidentally spill some on the board if you're doing this for the first time. Remember: it's not just the CPU and GPU that has thermal paste in the Zephyrus M. There are a few board components that ASUS decided to put thermal paste on that will also need some. There's a video earlier in this thread where someone demonstrates exactly how to dismantle the notebook and where to put the thermal paste, if you want to learn more.

 

Yea I’m planning to take mine to a shop to do it

 

Should I buy it then? I can keep the arctic silver as a backup

 

Is the coolermaster MasterGel maker better than the arctic silver 5?

 

"Is Arctic Silver 5 electrically conductive?

Not Electrically Conductive:
Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.

While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths."
http://www.arcticsilver.com/as5.htm

AS5 is also a thick paste that doesn't run like LM will do if you put on too much and it pools to the point where it runs, usually in little tiny balls of conductive doom, that roll under components leads and short them together, or worse - lands on something that will corrode and fail.

AS5 needs to be sealed from the air, don't overrun the heatplate / CPU with any paste overshoot that will "wick moisture" away and dry out the paste before it's time. I usually "cut" a ridge of AS5 / MX4 off the top of the CPU around the edge - giving about 1/8" of uncovered space on the CPU - and the layer on the CPU is thin so it won't "gish" out around the edges when the heatplate is applied.

If you can master keeping the AS5 / MX4 sealed from oxidative drying it will last for a long time. I've got desktops still running on an application of AS5 and NT-H1 after 10 years - and the temps are just fine.

This pretty much goes for all pastes even LM will oxidize and dry out and crystallize if the conditions are right, I've seen many reports over time, here is the most recent I've seen:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...fferential-issue.805062/page-40#post-10745473

If you can tune the OS / firmware / application / BIOS to undervolt and reduce the thermal generation such that you don't thermal throttle during normal use, or at least it only hits that TT point occasionally / briefly during heavy usage such that it doesn't affect use, then you can avoid the whole mess involved with re-pasting - usually requiring multiple attempts "to get it right" - and avoid the ongoing maintenance of keeping the temperatures down.

Usually the stock paste, 99% of the time, will provide enough cooling with good software tuning so that you never need to re-paste during your ownership of the laptop, or even during the time of the next few owners.

 

No I’m doing a repaste

 

Be aware that generally most computer repair places will not have ever seen an Asus Zephyrus M GM501, much less re-pasted one themselves.

With such situations they have bid the job based on time spent, and will stop where ever they are at the point the time runs out, and button it up.

They can't afford the time to re-paste 2x-3x times to get it "right", and may not do a good job disassembling and reassembling the first time.

Knowing that - you might offer them more than the standard time at the standard rate, let them know you will pay for the time required to do it right - even if they have to redo it a couple of times - as you can't afford to come back and do it again and again down the road. It's good to tell them this before they re-paste the first time and button it all up.

Also, be sure and backup your whole system to image's that you can restore later, restore your OS back to stock before you give it to them - make sure you have cleaned off all of your private info, logins, etc. I've heard back more than a few times that shops will re-install Windows as part of their work, thinking they are doing you a favor, even if you ask them to not do that when you drop it off. Better to have everything backed up before handing it over.

Please come back and let us know how it works out

 

I think I am going to take this laptop, with the nvdia 1060. I am an occasional gamer, mostly strategic games and very occasionaly 3D games.
I see that they sell it with 1 x 16Gb ram and so I am thinking to buy additional one just for the dual channel stuff. Apart the prices that I did not expected so high, does anyone already did that and can suggest a model/brand of ram bank ?
When I did the same thing for my old Asus NV56Z I remember that you should be very carefully in choosing a model/brand in order to avoid Blue Screen.

Specification of memory, according to the vendor website, is: PC4-21300 (2666 MHz)

Thanks

 

See my post #189 in this thread

 

I saw but it is a question, not an answer
Did you mean something else that maybe I am missing ?

 

Sorry mate, I contacted Asus support and that exact model of ram is what is installed in my GM501 in Australia which is a single 16gb stick. So if you look up that part number it will show you the full details of what you need to install

 

Here is the part number;
HYNIX/HMA82GS6CJR8N-VK
I managed to find a stick on eBay, so when it arrives I will have dual channel too.

 

So this means that I have first to receive the laptop and check the part number and afterwards order the ram ?
Or I can have this information before ordering, just looking the EAN on the shop online ? (I am in Germany).

 

The shop I’m going to sold me the laptop so I’m pretty sure they’ll be fine and I’ll specifically tell them to only repaste and help me add my 8gb 2666 ram and (if I get enough money) 2.5 inch ssd to replace the firecuda

 

They said if it’s beyond their ability, they’ll send it to the Asus service centre which is like next to it

 

That's good to hear, it's better to have an Asus Certified repair that way your warranty is good moving forward.

I'd still backup the boot / data as restore images before dropping it off, better safe than sorry.

 

Okay, btw is it worth upgrading the firecuda to a ssd?

 

A typical HDD runs about 70MB/sec - 120MB/sec (some are faster, usually not the cheap 2.5" included in laptops) while even a cheap 2.5" SSD will run 500MB/sec, so it's 5x-7x faster.

The jump from HDD to SSD is also way faster in access time, the delay is in nanoseconds vs. milliseconds. Plus modern laptop HDD's will be parking heads and even powering down (stops spinning) to save power, while an SSD will always be responsive instantly - stopping lag in games due to loading resources between levels - or saves.

Now the jump from SATA SSD 550MB/sec to NVME SSD isn't as noticeable as the "wall time"* has already been reduced by 5x-7x or more, so the actual time spend in a disk operation for most applications has already dropped so far as to be a small fraction of "wall time", so an NVME PCIE x4 SSD running 2x-4x faster than a SATA SSD splits the time even finer, but the absolute amount is a fraction of a second, so you won't notice it, except in heavy IO applications, usually rarely run - you'll know if your usage will be helped.

So, yeah, get an SSD

* Wall clock time is exactly what it says, the time elapsed as measured by the clock on your wall (or wristwatch) User cpu time is the time spent in "user land", that is time spent on non-kernel processes. System cpu time is time spent in the kernel, usually time spent servicing system calls.
https://www.google.com/search?q="wall+time"

 

Okay thanks

 

Has anyone found a workaround for ROG visual yet?

 

I am near to pull the trigger but I would need to know what I already asked, without success, in the Razer blade thread. How is the fan noise and thermal in normal usage ?

Here what is for me normal:

1. Running Text processing software or IDE
2. Running Browser with several tab opened
3. Video (Netflix, youtube)
4. Running 1 or more Virtual Machine

Maybe all what mentioned above at the same time.

Also, if you should choose between adding a second 16gb ram module and swapping the HD with a 512GB SSD what you would be your choice ?

 

The fan usually does not turn on until you hit 50C. When it does, the fans do have a high pitch sound which I find slightly annoying.
However, you can choose to have the fan in silent mode which means that it won't turn on until around 60C (Makes everything better.)
There was slight coil whine on my unit when I first received it, but now it seems to be gone.

Here are my temps:
1. Web browsing (Silent Fans, but fans don't turn on even in balanced mode)
(Battery + Optimus + Undervolt & very aggressive CPU power management & Disable Turbo)
CPU: High 30s- low 40sC GPU: High 30s- low 40sC
(AC + GSYNC + Undervolt & very aggressive CPU power management)
CPU: Mid to high 40s GPU: Mid to high 40s

2. Gaming (so use this for high intensity CPU/GPU usage) - Fans are on Overboost, which get really loud around 55 dB, luckily the speakers are even louder
Witcher 3
(AC + GSYNC + Undervolt + GPU OC +200 MHz Core and +300 MHZ Memory, No GPU crashes in any of my sessions)
CPU: ~85C GPU: ~78C
FYI, You get stable 60fps Vanilla, high 40s-50s with a gazillion script and graphics mods installed.

Keep in my I have Liquid Mental repasting done + Fujipoly thermal pads installed.

Here is where I got the numbers for undervolting: Youtube

I will personally switch to the SSD first unless you need storage for media or whatnot or need to run programs that will benefit from dual channel memory (some games for example).

 

I like that explanation, I usually think in terms of what a user will notice but put that way it is a better way to get it across. Thanks.

 

I don't think I will repast, never did in my life. But maybe I would be interested in these therma pads. Where did you put them exactly ?

 

The Thermal pads are usually under the heatplate that is also over the CPU / GPU, the pads bridge the gap between smaller hot components than the GPU / CPU that are taller, so to reach the heatplate at the same level the thermal pads are used.

So, if you want to replace the thermal pads, you will need to re-paste as well. And, if you re-paste it's a good idea to have new thermal pads handy in case during disassembly you tear or otherwise damage a thermal pad.

If you don't plan to repaste, you won't need thermal pads.

Some try to lower the temps of their M.2 SSD's by applying thermal pads to them - usually to bridge the gap between the M.2 drive and part of the metal structure - to transfer heat away from the M.2 drive. That is a bit of a reach for their use, but some insist it helps.

Putting on a higher surface area heat sink - with fins - and finding some way to direct airflow over them works a lot better.

 

I got my laptop thru HIDevolution so they have done the repasting and thermal pad installation job for me. Generally, you cut the thermal pads and cover up the exposed memory units that are covered by the headsink (I think you can put them on the nvme ssd - the point is that you can put them on surfaces like emit heat). On this laptop, I will put the pads where Asus had put thermal paste on before when you remove the heatsink (except on the GPU and CPU of course).

I highly recommend you to do a repaste since this laptop needs every cooling opportunity it gets. If you don't feel comfortable using liquid metal you can use a non-electrically conductive paste like thermal grizzly Kryonaut, or at least do an undervolt with throttlestop.

The thin nature of this laptop makes it highly dependent on environmental temperatures while also limiting its thermal dissipation capacity. Having better quality Thermal interface materials (TIMs) like paste and pads can help get rid of heat quicker and even reduce the degree of heat damage to the laptop and extend the laptop's service life.

 

I am in Europe so HID evolution is out of discussion. Shipment and shipment back in case of RMA will cost to much.

Actually I was keen to buy this instead of MSI gs65 or Razor just because I thought I could have decent thermal (compared to the previous mentioned models) without necessarily repasting.

 

I think all thin and light gaming laptops are pretty similar in thermals as their chassis physically restrict airflow. The unique aspect of the zephyrus is that it has a full fledged 1070 which will nick you around 10% more performance and THE best gaming panel for esport titles or AAA titles by giving you the smoothest experience by having the least response time and gsync (very useful if the game runs at 40-50fps)

As for other work I do think some other laptops are better like the Aero V8 which has outstanding battery life, or the blade which has an outstanding 144hz screen for content creation, and the msi stealth which is literally thin and light. Even though they all have a 1070 max q, it is more than enough to run heavy gpu oriented tasks.

I know the Zephyrus has the AAS but it doesn't seem to yield as big of a difference as if you just repaste a razer/gigabyte/msi. I will give Asus and gigabyte points for the ease of access to the disk drives and heat sinks though.

 

has anyone noticed that when you download the new drivers from asus for aura core that the music mode is not working now?

 

This is getting very frustrating is anyone still having issues with aura core its not even opening for me anymore I downloaded the latest drives from the website and followed the instructions but it wont even open for me now.

 

Ye its a new problem with their drivers. For now it only works if I run the Aura core app as admin.

 

You know what ? For the first time in my life I was ready to allocate an exceptional amount of bucks for the new laptop. I always wanted one of this thin, nicey and portable laptop. For my usage 1060 is enough, by the way.
The matter is that each of the models you listed and that i was monitoring, has a problem:

• MSI GS65: High temp, build quality poor (Creaking chassis), hardly accessible inside (I am not the guy who likes to tinker too much with hardware), Display not so bright (270nits average for a 2000 euro laptop ?? seriously ??)
• Aero V8: very high temp, poor display (light bleeding reported), poor trackpad
• Razer: bad customer support, bad thermal (get hot also for not so stressing usage), light bleeding reported

I was willing to give up to the thin bezel and take the Asus because the supposed better thermal due to that opening on the bottom when you open the laptop.

I find totally crazy that for laptop so expensive people talk normally and costantly about repasting, undervolting, padding, etc etc. I mean, I pay for the premium not for fix your design issue and find a way to make work properly your expensive laptop!

End of rant.

 

Yeah, well... that's pretty much the price you pay for having a thin and light gaming notebook. Thermals in a high performance thin and light were always going to be a problem. Wanting to undervolt and so on is part of trying to get the best performance possible out of a machine class that's always going to compromise somewhere. You would have seen the same kind of talk on the other models because that's what a lot enthusiasts who buy this type of notebook do.

The thing is... out of the four models you mention, the Zephyrus M is the one that has the best thermal performance out of the rest (more or less). I hit around 70C to 80C CPU temperature on most games before I decided to repaste, with Battlefield 1 being the only crazy exception that pushed the CPU temp to the high 90s. Unless you're trying to play a first person shooter that is super-demanding on the CPU (eg. Battlefield 1) while in a non-air conditioned room in the humid tropics like me, it's going to be fine out of the box.

By the way, just to add to your list of cons, I really disliked how the GS65 removed the numpad. That was the thing that finally pushed me to get the Zephyrus M when upgrading from my old GS60 6QE, in combination with the not-as-good thermals and the dismantle everything to access RAM and NVME design inherent to the GS series.

 

Thermal would be 40-49c at normal use

 

Give it a few days, will fix it self

 

Honestly it is like it might be even a problem to upgrade to any new drivers that Asus even provides on their website because you are always in fear that something that is working will suddenly stop working, It was working fine before I updated the drivers.

 

I get my GM501 today from HIDevolution. Have to say it was a great buying experience and I appreciate the personal service, so shout out to @Donald@HIDevolution - I appreciate all the help.

I also wanted to reach out to @Phoenix to see when you may have some time for a tweaking session. Thanks!

 

tag me tomorrow to remind me

 

Before buying a quick doublecheck.
I see there is the GU501 with the 1060 and in same review they describe it like the GM501 but with the 1060 instead of the 1070. And the difference between GU and GM is not just the GFX but also the screen, the ssd, etc.
But in some online shop here in Germany I see the GM501 with 1060. Are gm501 with 1060 and gu501 with 1060 2 different model ?

 

So I ordered a GM501, just to see how much "better" it is than the MSI GS65 (which currently is in service . So I love the build quality on the ASUS and I really prefer it's Keyboard. And the screen is awesome.
Here's the stuff I dislike...
1. No Display Port, no LAN. I have a lan dongle, but no DP? REALLY? Is there a USB-C Dongle with LAN and a G-SYNC capable Display Port that doesn't break the bank (considering I have already spent a fortune on this thing)?
2. Noise ... Somehow, when Gaming on the GS65 I always had great fps in the Games I play (Titanfall 2, Fortnite, Doom) while still being somewhat ... moderate in term of Noise. The ASUS really is louder. is there a way to .. like ... downclock the GPU to MAX-Q levels just to get it to be silent? - I mean, I have little kids and my office is right next to their bedroom. I rarely get time to Game other than at night, which is why I often would prefer slightly less FPS if it is silent. Even with Whisper mode on, the ASUS is louder than the GS65.
3. Battery Life. Man I wish I could replace the 2,5" bay for a bigger Battery!!

I'm thinking of repasting the unit, and why I have repasted my old Alienware Notebooks with LM, the recent .. setback... with my GS65 has me somewahthesitant. Is there any info on temp difference between Conductonaut and Kryonaut? Would using Kryonaut to replace the paste on all other parts be OK, or should I rather buy Fujipolys for those?

Anyway, it IS an awesome Notebook!

 

Could be a retailer-specific version.

 

So the issue with aura core is that everytime you switch to discrete or optimus the music mode will stop working but all other modes will work I personally like the music mode.

 

The GU-501 doesn’t have the opening bottom lid

 

The GU version doesn’t have the bottom lid mechanism

 

Even with a lower GPU that doesn't seem like a great idea.

 

I would like to know if I can remove thermal paste on vrm and all components except cpu and gpu and replace it by thermal pads. Regarding is under heatsink, 0.5mm are too thick or is right ?


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