*** ASUS Zephyrus M (GM501) Owner's Lounge ***

It's pretty easy I've just done it. No harder than any other laptop. Just make sure you have the correct torx size bits and you'll be fine.


Actually, I'm having a weird issue trying to fix a friend's GM501GS.

Laptop is off, battery charged to 100%, unplugged.
Turn laptop on, can go to BIOS no problem, boots Windows fine up until login screen, then says it's going to hibernate and does.
Won't turn on again unless connected to power.
Once connected and logged into Windows says battery is at 100%, can unplug it and it will run fine for a normal amount of time.

Reset Windows, updated BIOS.
Windows is updated. Drivers I think are also all up to date. It's very confusing with all the Asus software that's actually required for it to work 100%.

Swapped the battery with a new one, issue still occurs.

Any ideas? After a new battery I'm at a loss...

I'm trying to "calibrate" the new battery again.
After a week turned off it turned on fine but then went hibernating again on itself before the login page, while unplugged.
Managed to turn it on still only on battery and it was displaying a red cross on the battery icon in Windows. Saying only a minute left. Played youtube videos for the normal 2-ish hours until it turned off.
Will now let it rest for a few hours and charge to full again. See if it helps.

 

Are the fans suppose to be completely silent with silent mode enabled when just idling cos mine is still quite loud.

Overboost and balanced mode has the effect = overbearing fans running at max

 

From my understanding the U501GM doesn't have the raised hinge mechanism. Has anyone had a close inspection of the bottom panel to see how it differs from the raised hinge model and of the gtx1070 and whether it can be converted to the non raised hinge just by simple switching the bottom rear plate since I really hate the flimsy raised hinge design on mine

 

hello everybody ,
someone has a tutorial video for changing thermal paste? and i don't know which thermal paste is good on this laptop,
my machine pass 95 Celsius on cpu while gaming and it made me worry,
i looked any software improvements and i think it's hardware issue,
my machine has more than two years ,thanks for your replies

 

i updated my bios to 315 months ago and today i tried to undervolt my cpu to have a better thermal results but how you know in the new bios there's a limit to change cpu voltage and it's impossible to undervolt,
i wanted to know also there's someone to know how to undervolt and have a better thermal results ?

 

You shouldn't have upgraded it unfortunately, bios .315 locks the undervolt due to plundervolt vulnerability. I think someone said it a few posts back.
Maybe you could flash back the old bios, but actually I'm not so sure that it's feasible, and would not be easy anyway.

The only things you can do now would be either repaste, or reduce the CPU boost clock multiplier in Throttlestop FIVR section.

 

thank you for your reply,for now i turned off Cpu boost and while playing COD is good and temperature is 20 Celsius lower than before,
could you please tell me what is the best cpu boos clock multiplier to have best results ?

 

From my tests, I think 32 as multiplier to just core 5 and 6 provides good balance between performance and temperatures, you could give it a try. Do some tests, based on temps you're getting you could higher or lower the value.
But in general I suggest you to tweak the boost multiplier rather than disable boost completely, otherwise it will always run at 2.2 GHz max which is definitely good for temps but not performance in most cases.

 

but turbo ratio lock is also grayed out in the throttle app i don't know how to change it

 

Can you post a screen of the FIVR window?
Maybe that bios locks also the clocks multiplier... it seems a little strange to me actually, but it could be.

 

i searched and i saw i can change it from TPL setting and CLOCK MOD setting aslo,
i putted CLOCK MOD to 87.5 % now i have around 3.15 GHz while I'm looking from task manager ,
TPL settings was a bit complicated and i didn't understand ,

 

https://ibb.co/WtW93rL

It's quite easy if you are carefull. Just remove the display connector, fan connectors, antena cables and LED connectors. Then remove the black tape from fans and your heatsink is ready to remove. I'd suggest disasembling the fans too and clean them thoroughly (4 Tiny screws and your good). Mine had some dust build up inside and the fan blades where sticky and also covered with dust. Had the same temps as you. Now the CPU temp stays at around 85 degrees wich is the best temps i had so far while playing jumping to 93-95 on stress test. I've had 90 degrees sińce i bought this laptop so stock paste sucks. I've used Arctic MX-4 from Amazon. After reading some posts here i tried thermal pads before but the temps didn't change. Can't tell if i picked wrong thickness of the pads or just low quality. Anyway now i went only with paste and i'm satisfied with the results.

 

Hello everybody,
Today i wanted to turn on my laptop without charger but didn't turn on ,
I tried to connect the charger the battery light (orange color) became on I pressed the power button but laptop didn't turn on and the charging light gone,
After that laptop totally died nothing happen if I connect charger or no,won't turn on ,only if i press repeatedly power button for less than a second power led blink and nothing happen,
I opened the machine and I disconnected the battery socket and hold power button for 40 seconds to do hard reset ( i read it in the asus site )
Then connected again the battery but nothing changed,
The problem is not from my charger because i saw without battery and charger that led doesn't blink but with charger at least i have that led blink,anybody has some experience with this?
I'm living in italy,should i send it to technical assistance? ( I'm out of garanty)

 

Have any of you managed to output 4k at 60fps to a TV? and/or HDR?

Thanks

 

Anyone has the bios version 313 backed up? Seems like most companies have gone out of their way to remove most of the older versions on the Intel CPU's. Throttlestop is impossible to use after that version.

I can't find it anywhere as most mirrors were killed.

 

Can someone pls confirm whether the thb3 port supports x2 or x4 pcie lanes

 

So to classify, are you saying if I take out the four Philips screws, the flap that raises when open will need to be completely removed from the laptop hence the need for rubber feet because of the gap? Is there no way to have the flap permanently closed even with the lid open to have it looks and functions like a normal notebook?
Reason I'm asking is the gtx1060 variant is identical but without the raised flap.
Of course heat will need to be addressed if I decide to go this route.
I just hate the raised mechanism, makes this premium machine flimsy

 

Hi everyone. I own the GM501GS GTX1070 variant. Since I bought it, I've done: 1- liquid metal application, 2-thermalright odyssey thermal pad upgrade, 3- 32GB HyperX Impact Dual Channel-Dual Rank 2666MHz CL15 RAM upgrade. I am VERY pleased with having a GTX1070 Max-P variant in this global chip shortage and I shouldn't have any complaints. I had been on the 315 BIOS since it's been out. But in the meantime, I took an interest on undervolting and BOY I think I hit the jackpot with my chip, -125mV core, -25mV both on cache and iGPU. However, I needed to downgrade the BIOS to 314, as 315 disables it for security vulnerabilitiyes like plundervolt etc.

Since I had the downgrade, I am having this weird issue (actually I had it when I first bought it back in 2019 as well, but I guess it's been quite a while since BIOS 315 was out and this issue was fixed): Whenever the display turns off (times out) after being inactive for a while (on desktop) AND/OR when I Win+L and lock the device when I'm going away and display turns off after a while, the device becomes unresponsive in a couple of minutes. ABSOLUTELY no life on the HDD indicator LED, AC/Battery lights are on, pressing the keys/or mouse does not wake the device at all, and fans are spinning normally. The only way you can use the laptop again is to press down the power button and kill the device, then turn on again. But I often leave important documents on (I'm a master's student) so this issue of instability is a big NO for me :/


I've tried so many things, I set the "turn off the harddisk after" setting under the Power Plan to "Never". I used all the old but approved drivers on Asus website. NO AVAIL! I then tried BIOS 313, SAME. Then went back to BIOS 315, problem goes away. But I lose the undervolting capabilities, and I definitely want to keep it (I scored over 3000 points in Cinebench R20, while undervolted and turbo boost period extended). I am lost at this point. Can anyone help me? Is there anyone who is also experiencing this and/or found a solution? How can I get rid of this issue while I am on BIOS 314?

Thanks in advance

 

Hi, I don't understand, so are you now on bios .314 or .315?

Cause I have bios .314 for over a year now, and that never happened to me, neither I've heard of the issue before.
Make sure you have suspension turned off in windows power plan settings (both new and old control panel), and also "hybernation" and "fast boot" unchecked in the partially-hidden menu.

 

Hey there, sorry for the LATE reply. I've been on .315 since my last post here, cos I couldn't deal with it dying all the time. There has been no such problems on .315 but I sure do miss being able to undervolt Question, have you ever done a clean install of Windows on your Zephyrus? If so, do you install the drivers on the Asus website first, or you let Windows Update install the drivers? Maybe it's a driver compatibility issue with .314

 

Yes, at least 2-3 times or so.
Except for the ones like wireless and video drivers (for which I take the ones from official intel/nvidia sites), I always pick drivers from Asus gm501gs support page and I'd suggest you do so. Never let windows install them, cause they are often older version which gets replaced or installed in parallel with others, causing messes (it happened to me more than once).

 

I too install only the drivers on Asus' website (except the WiFi, Bluetooth, Intel GPU and Nvidia GPU, I download the latest ones from their respective websites, is that ok?), I just wanted to make sure what other users were doing and my way was ok. At the first few steps of setting up the Windows, I create an offline account and I do not connect to any WiFi network so that the Windows Update doesn't do it's thing. When I finally reach the destop, I then install all the drivers myself, and then connect to the network. It still finds a few drivers to install/update. I tried so many scenarios but I couldn't solve the issue of device not being able to wake up after the display timeout on .314 BIOS, so I've since been back on .315 for stability :/ I would very much love to go back to .314 again :'(

 

Very strange. Since it has never happened to me, I can't suggest you anything apart from trying to downgrade again to .314 and after windows is installed check for all suspension/hybernation/fast boot options and disable all, including the ones I said earlier and also disable "sysmain" windows service. Usually that problem is caused by hidden hybernation-like features.

 

So I've been able to isolate the root of the problem. I tried a few scenarios and different drivers. I reverted back to .314. Hibernation etc all disabled, so is the SysMain Windows service. Then:

Firtst I enabled "Optimus Mode" on ROG Gaming Center.

After the restart, I DDU'd both the Intel and Nvidia drivers.

Installed the Intel driver found on Asus' website (V25.20.100.6446) and disabled the GTX 1070 before drivers were automatically installed. Upon testing, the laptop was ABLE TO WAKE UP FROM A TURNED OFF DISPLAY IDLE state, and I was able to replicate this result numerous times.

Then the Nvidia driver found on Asus' website was installed (V25.21.14.1735 / 417.35). The problem came back.

Updated to the latest Nvidia driver using Geforce Experience (by doing an Express Installation), the problem still persists.

Then DDU'd again, and this time, I let Windows Update install a driver, and the one installed was V24.21.13.9924 / 399.24. The problem still persists, letting alone the fact that the driver is so old that some games don't even start.

++++Also to mention, when I was playing AC Valhalla hardcore 2 days ago, in Discrete Graphics mode, the same kind of "not being able to wake up from a turned off display after the screen lock" issue showed itself as well (before it would usually happen in Optimus mode, not the Discrete GPU mode). I would play for a few hours, then close the game and lock the display and leave the room. When I came back, I couldn't wake the laptop, but this time, HDD indicator LED was blinking normally, and I was able to change the brightness of the keyboard backlight using the hotkeys, and I could hear the Device Plugged In sounds when I inserted a USB stick and the display is 100% turned off during this time, can not wake up (Usually when this problem happened in Optimus Mode, I couldn't do these, the device would be totally frozen while fans still spinning and absolutely no life in HDD indicator LED)

So the main take is, the GTX 1070 is the culprit. Do any of these that I mentioned look like a hardware problem to anyone? Cos I tried so many drivers that I am very inclined to say it is not a software/driver issue now The device is already out of the warranty and I do not know if I can find anyone in Cyprus authorised by Asus to look into this. Any suggestions?

 

I see a couple of people have been asking for older bios versions, especially since undervolting has become impossible on the latest version and Asus has wiped anything pre 314 from the internet.

v307: https://www.mediafire.com/file/etx2cjkswlya05x/GM501GSAS307.zip/file
v308: https://www.mediafire.com/file/zea5moz4m22k0j2/GM501GSAS308.zip/file
v310: https://www.mediafire.com/file/ck3hq1blriqwlkl/GM501GSAS310.zip/file
v313: https://www.mediafire.com/file/to6wm0z6pu9u433/GM501GSAS313.zip/file

I believe that 313 is the last version before the undervolting restriction was put in, it's the one i'm currently using myself without any issues.
Downgrading from 314 or 315 is easy enough, same process as always, i came from 315 myself.

 

Hi there. The BIOS version that takes away undervolting is .315. Undervolting via ThrottleStop etc is available to me when I use the .314 version. But, I never had these older BIOS files (I was only able to obtain what is available on Asus' website atm, and it's only .314 and .315 now). Are these files of your own archive? I mean, did you download these yourself from the Asus website over the years, or obtained them elsewhere? I'm tempted to try out these to see whether my BIOS files were iffy or not, but again, with every BIOS update procedure, I'm anxious about bricking lol. Are you absolutely certain they are good to go/untampered? I had the .313 ZIP file, and wanted to have a quick comparison: all three of the versions I have at hand (.313, .314, .315) all have the "-AS" suffix at the end of their names, but yours do not ( https://imgur.com/a/soqaEOo). Just wanted to make sure, is this "-AS" suffix a requirement for the BIOS to recognise the file as a correct BIOS file?

 

Yeah i always make my own driver archives by pulling everything from the manufacturer's website because you can't trust them to consistently host all versions.
I think i grabbed most of these about a year ago from Asus's website, they're all the original .zip files.
Not sure what's up with that naming inconsistency though, i've recently used that 313.zip to flash my own bios, if i run Aida64 and Cpu-Z on my laptop it shows up with that exact name as well.

 

Ah cool. Thanks for the reply, man! I might try your files out soon. After the last loooong post that I made here, I went back to .315, losing undervolting but ULTIMATELY gaining back the system stability. So you used the .313 file as it came out of the ZIP, without the -AS suffix in the name and flashing went fine ha? Just wanted to confirm.

Edit: Please disregard the question. It was written under bricking anxiety. I mean you clearly said above that it works lol. Will try it out myself soon

 

Hey guys. I've just noticed on Asus' support page for our Zephyrus M that there's a new BIOS version, .317. Has anyone updated to this, manually or automatically? Any impressions? Is undervolting back? Or is this just a minor update that enables TPM and stuff by default for Windows 11?

 

I need to perform more testing but I upgraded to .317 (from .314) as part of windows insider update to Windows 11, and it seems my throttlestop settings are still in effect! Getting slightly higher TS Bench times when in my gaming options (will try to attach screenshot) but even better times when in performance mode. Seems the only difference is I have Speed Shift set to 160 in Game mode and 110 in Performance.

 

Hi. Can you confirm with a screenshot of your FIVR window that any of your undervolt settings are actually applied, OFFSETs are can be observed and the grayed out/disabled controls are back (like CPU Core Voltage etc)?

 

Hmm you may be right, I see no offset being displayed. Perhaps this weekend I can downgrade my firmware again to test. I played some games last night and temps are the same as always so not sure what to think at the moment lol

Here are my Game mode settings:

 

Ah yes, undervolting seems to be gone for good Not coming back, ever. It's probably what i said about this BIOS update before, a prep update for Windows 11 that enables TPM and Secure Boot and all by default...

 

Will do some testing to see if old firmware will play nice with Win11. At the moment I am a little perplexed by my good temperatures, and the fact that when I swap to Performance mode there is a noted change in temp range. I may also try to build my settings in the new 9.x version of TS to see if there is any difference. You may have noticed I am running an old version - 8.7 currently.

 

Yes I noticed. From what I've read so far, Windows 11 doesn't actually require a new BIOS update to work unless a user is savvy enough to enable TPM and Secure Boot etc manually. Now i'm on .315 and temperatures are pretty much perfect, esp in IDLE. I hated to come back to my laptop after a while to find it red hot doing absolutely nothing.

 

Hey everyone,
I've recently upgraded my rog with 32gb of fury cl15 ram and 4tb ssd 870 evo. I've windows 11 pro installed, and recently updated bios to 317 version via windows update.
I'd like to know if someone upgraded the wifi adapter to the wifi 6 ax successfully. I read some posts on web about cnvio/pcie compatibilty for the m2 ngff ax200, and I would try to ugrade my ac9560 to the ax200. Is there someone who done the upgrade working?
Thanks

 

Does anyone know if the laptop has a bios recovery key combination? For some reason i undervolt the laptop to -0.60V it crash to blue screen after awhile then now it doesn't post at all just keyboard light and power led.

 

It will work fine with AX200 i tried on mine the transfer speed is quite decent if you have a wifi 6 router.

 

Does anyone have a link to a bios older than 315? it disables undervolting as of right now.

 

Nevermind, downgraded to bios v310. Undervolting is back.

 

An user two pages ago posted links to download official previous bios versions, up to ver. 313

If you're interested, here is the post:

 

Edit, scratch that, the links are broken.

 

I managed to downgrade the bios, but it keeps on trying to update to ver 317 every time I restart the laptop. Is there a way to turn this off?

 

Sounds like windows update or perhaps the Asus live update app if you have it installed could have already initiated the upgrade. You might try letting it finish, and then downgrading back to 313 using flash tool in BIOS.

I reformatted the other day and reinstalled windows 11 from USB drive, I was already on BIOS 317. Then I used the link Wintermute shared above for version 313, and used the built in flash utility to downgrade and things are working well!

 

You have to first use the windows show/hide tool (I'll put it here as an attachment) to hide the .317 bios from Windows Update, otherwise it will always install right after (you know, windows update is... well, obtrusive to say the least).

Once you've done this, make sure to uninstall the .317 firmware from device manager (it's under "firmware" section, of course). Then, and only then, you can downgrade the bios without worries.

 

This worked, thank you very much.