ASUS VivoBook X202E / S200E / Q200E Owners' Lounge

Can anyone help. Purchased a s200e and a samsung SSD . Have used the bundled samsung software and a usb to sata cable to clone the HDD (300gb) to the SSD (120gb)

Have updated the bios to disable secureboot and enable the CSM and the samsung ssd is visible in the bios and I can set it to boot but I get an error to reboot and install bootable. There is also another SSD showing which is the Samsung SSD but with EUFI in front of it but also does not boot although it does get to the windows icon before failing.

Any ideas why the SSD wont boot up windows? Want to get it to boot before I try to difficult job of getting the rear cover off!

 

I've found that the best way to boot up this laptop is with a clean install. I know that is more difficult to do since this computer doesnt come with an install disc.

If you find a Windows 8 (not 8.1) install disc, it should read the product key off of the motherboard where it is embedded.

Did you already clone the SSD?

 

I also tried to clone the 500BG HDD to a 240GB SSD. I could not get past the UEFI boot up screen. I guess it has to do with resizing the partitions.

I would like to do a fresh install but don't know the steps involved.

First q: does it matter if I already tried to clone the SSD? Do I need to re-format the SSD before the clean install of windows?
2nd q: I see that I can create a windows media boot from the MS website. Create installation media for Windows 8.1 - Windows Help
So I follow the steps to create a USB install media. Install my SSD, then mess with the UEFI to boot from USB, and then what? It will auto install Win 8 to my SSD?

Thanks.

 

I made a sub-Par video about controlling the fan speed on this computer, suprised i havent found anything about that, but i also included a fan super speed hack and uploaded a config file to use. I own a asus x202e.

When i get around to it i will document my cooling mod for this laptop as well as a exploit centric internals run-down.

I can upload the non speedhack control settings for notebook fan control if somebody wants it, if u dont like the looks or sounds of ny "hair dryer" mod. Lol.

ASUS X202e/S200e/Q200e Fan Control And/Or Over-Sp…: http://youtu.be/5QOIN-oRnPc

 

Hi x202e owners. I'm still loving my x202e Dual Booting Ubuntu and Win8. However, I still hate the battery life and it seems like I'm lucky to get 2-3hrs out of it in Power saving mode!

Anyways, I'm looking at car chargers and don't want to cause any issues with my battery that's already pretty weak. I don't want to cause any overcharging with a car charger and was wondering if anyone's had any experience with these?

I was thinking of buying the Pwr+® Laptop Car Charger off Amazon for $20 because it has good reviews and apparently won't cause any battery problems. Appreciate any suggestions. I'll probably purchase the Pwr+ for $20 since it seems reliable and had good reviews.

 

You need to be sure the Wattage is the same or higher than your current brick and that the voltage is right. Also you need to be sure your vehicle can handle the power delivery.

 

Hi, thanks for this info.

This is the Pwr+ Charged I bought>
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Laptop-Car-...200-S200E-Power-Supply-Cord-DC-/371074519120?

The charger I have that came with the laptop shows
Input > 100/240V~50/60Hz 0.8A
Output >19V 1.75A

The Pwr+ I rcvd shows>
Input> 11.5V-16V DC 5.6A MAX
Output > 19V 3.42A

I know the Input will be different on a car charger and my car can handle these input values fine. I'm slightly concerned by the 3.42A vs 1.75A on my wall charger output.?

Any ideas of this is just the Max value for the Output on the car charger? I contacted seller but haven't got a response yet. Thanks for any more help/info. Just want to make sure it won't cause any issues. I should've asked these questions before buying! Thx

 

I wanted to report back that the charger I bought is working great!

 

Asus x202E
Hi,
I bought a mico headphone adapter to ahave separate plugs for external microphone..
When i plug an external micrphone it doesn't work??
Where to select external input on this netbook (asus x202e) ? There's nothing in the user manual
Thanks

 

Have you opened your audio control panel and had a look in there? There should be an icon in the bottom right of your desktop.

 

Battery Concerns/Questions. I was wondering if anyone can help do a comparison between my battery and yours. I'm running an x202e System that has an Core i3 i3-3217U (1.8 GHz) and I installed a Samsung 840 240GB SSD.

So, the SSD should obviously help with my systems battery life. I was wondering how long your systems show a total remaining time after pulling the Power Cable. I was checking mine and it showed 2hr 52min left after I let it hit 99%. It would not show estimated time remaining at 100%. This was using Power4Gear Battery Saving mode and power saving mode.

A more realistic time for my time remaining while doing normal computing and turning off power saving mode allowing CPU to scale it showed about 2 hr 11min left @ 97%. This was while I was streaming a mountain bike event in 720 to my TV using HDMI.

If anyone can do a comparison under similar setting/circumstances and let me know what their systems shows I'd appreciate it. I really like my x202e but the Battery life is frustrating. I might want to eventually get mine serviced and replace the battery. Are their any potential upgrades if I have it sent back for a battery replacement?

Also, If you can download HWmonitor from this site and see if your batter shows "Wear Level" I'd appreciate that. Mine shows 15% degraded. I've had my system probably 2 years.

Here's a shot of HWmonitor and where you can download it.




http://www.cpuid.com/

 

1.)
Has anyone tried using a different battery with larger capacity?
There are a few ASUS models that might fit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-ORIGINA...524?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e9e440fe4

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Asu...971?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a4fb5963b

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-Origin...779?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43c6a26ad3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-4V-45Wh-G...946?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d56a43e42

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-Zenboo...975?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25a6684027

2.)
The overheating "fix" with thermal pads does not seem convincing to me.
and as someone mentioned earlier, has anyone tried replacing their hsf?

Q200e looks like:



Another compatible replacements looks like:



Maybe they can even be combined?




3.)

Also, as someone mentioned, has anyone tried upgrading the LCD?
With a better IPS panel, like:
https://www.laptopscreen.com/English/screen-part-number/B116XAN03.0~HW0A/

or even a 1080p panel, with a 30 to 40 pin adapter, perhaps

 

I’ve had my s200E for some time but I have some issues with it. I wonder if any have an explanation.

1/ Web pages (I use Firefox) often load very slowly – much more slowly than on my desktop using the same internet connection.

2/ Frequently (at least once every 2 days) the WiFi connection will die, although all other devices can still access the internet. Sometimes turning WiFi (on the laptop) off and on will fix it, other times a reboot is needed.

3/ About once a week the machine will just crash – switch itself off. Often I am doing nothing at the time – reading a web page for example.

The problems existed on W8 and continued on W8.1.

.

 

I just tested a matte 40pin ips display: B116XAN03.0, from a HP Pavilion 11 x2, and it doesn't work right, the entire screen is washed out white.

topcat123:
1/2 Uninstall existing wifi drivers, and install latest ones from asus.
You can try using a different wifi chip, by installing a new one internally or using a usb one, like:
http://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-781...=UTF8&qid=1433555121&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+wifi

3. use coretemp to measure temperature. Does it turn off with fans at fullblast?

 

what's the button that loads the Bios S200e? f2? f9?

 

It's F2 on the x202e. And it has to be done from a reboot FWIR. Also, any updates on the battery post at the top of this page I posted?

Oddly, I just checked my "battery health" using hw monitor and it shows it @ 14% now. When I checked a few months back it showed 15%. Additionally, any suggestions on Quakes post regarding replacement battery options? I'm thinking the guru's have abandoned this thread and will be left to fend for ourselves? Time to do our own research huh??

 

Hey all.
I have an S200E (i3 processor). It's been getting very slow over the past year. In fact I've always hated how slow it was to boot up and the incessant bloody problems with Smart Gesture taking about 10-15 minutes to actually start working after logging in! Once I get going it seems to work ok, but if I want to do something fast and the laptop is off - forget about it!

I was toying with the idea of getting an SSD installed in it, perhaps replacing the battery and from what I can tell from this thread, maybe even a new fan?

What I'm wondering is - is all of this worth it? I'm unlikely to do the upgrade myself, I've become a bit of a technophobe and I'll get someone to do it for me. So I'm looking at £150-£200 for the whole shebang.

What I'm wondering is, is all this **** worth it? £200 is a fair chunk that I could put towards a 13 inch laptop with an i7... am I realistically going to notice a speed increase with the SSD? Is the RAM upgradeable?

 

The difference was night and day between the SLOW 5400 RPM mechanical drive that comes with the laptop and the SSD I installed back in December of 2013. I knew from day 1 that I was going to do that since I couldn't stand how slow the laptop was with the mechanical drive! Launching a windows 8 tile application took like 10 seconds with the mechanical drive and only about 3 seconds with SSD. Everything about the laptop was greatly enhanced with my Samsung 840 Evo 250GB! It was my first install on a laptop and it went pretty good. I even replaced the wireless LAN/Bluetooth card with a faster one. It's a little tricky getting the case open but once that's done it's quite easy.

I can't find my thread post but use this guys website for the install!
As for the RAM my x202e is not upgradeable so I'm stuck with what I got. Good luck!

 

Is this something that I can do myself at home?
What do I need?
I'm considering this SSD: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-2-5...F8&qid=1438327184&sr=8-2&keywords=Samsung+840 will it fit?
Also, it mentions using bundled software on a disk to clone the drive, what I'm wondering is - what do I need to clone the drive that I have? Do I need two drive caddies so that I can connect them both via USB to a different computer and clone from there?
I'd really appreciate some advice on how to get this done.
I'm not sure what OS I'm running, well I do know it's windows 8.1 but unsure whether this is a basic or pro or whatever.

 

Also, will the SSD help with how sluggishly slow the computer runs when I have 20-30 tabs open in chrome? or is that more of a RAM issue?

 

I wouldn't trust that Samsung 840, since it's known for speed degradation issues. Or Samsung for that matter. I'd suggest you to look for a nice SanDisk drive with 10 year warranty (!).

The slow tabs indeed are a RAM issue, and a chrome issue.
I suggest you to use a smarter, more free browser: qupzilla, it uses a different "engine" from usual Firefox. If you don't like qupzilla, try looking into Palemoon.

 

Cool. Thanks for the info. Any chance of a link or product name for something that might be better? The samsung SSD was just the first thing that came up on amazon that didn't have crap reviews.

 

Also this is a strange one, but I think I want to try windows 7 on my vivobook? Any pros/cons to this? and how do I go about doing it? I suppose that legally it would cost me a pretty penny, right?
For reference, I do have a laptop with windows 7 on it, can I clone that laptop's drive and put it into my vivobook? Will this be illegal?

 

I installed qupzilla and it crashed my computer every time I tried to run it. So yeah, thanks for that...

 

I use a pair of 850 evo drives in my machine and it performs very well. OEM versions of windows images need bios support so it will de-activate if your bios does not have a valid key.

 

So, will this fit?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Samsung-2-5...438418359&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+850+evo+ssd
Anyone?

 

Yes.

 

Thanks for confirming that.

Now, would someone please give me some pointers on how I can do a fresh install of windows 8 on the system for when I do the HDD swap to an SSD? Should I do a fresh install on the machine as it is and then clone the drive, or?
All help much appreciated.
Cheers.

 

Also, what else do I need to buy along with that SSD to make the upgrade possible? Do I need a HDD (SATA) caddy so I can connect through USB? Cheers.

 

Hey all. So I took the plunge and I migrated to an SSD (850 EVO from Samsung). Works like a dream and the speed improvement is VERY apparent. I am really happy with it. The migration was a little bit hairy at first, with the SSD not being recognised by the cloning software (samsung) at first. I thought it was because it was in a caddy. There was a thread online that suggested that a caddy will stop the SSD from being recognised and a SATA-USB adapter should be used instead. For some reason though, at one point the SSD was recognised by Samsung Migrate and the migration worked.

The opening of the S200E was easy enough and the swap was straightforward. As I say it works very well and wakes up from sleep extremely quickly, which was my main gripe in the past.

I do have a little problem. I wiped my HDD completely before I cloned it, and hence I am running a fresh windows 8 install on the SSD. I want to get windows 8.1, but windows is telling me that I need to apply some security updates first. The problem is - there are loads of updates and the computer gets stuck in the middle (I gave it about 2 hours on the first attempt to install them). What can be done about this? Is there something I might be doing wrong?

Also - when it comes to windows 10, is this advisable? Is it a big improvement? If so, how do I speed up the process of getting windows 10? Or do I just wait for it?

 

I'd also be interested to know if anyone did the upgrade to Windows 10. I've checked on Asus website and the S200E is not in the equipment list for upgrade...

 

I have upgraded to Windows 10. Create a user account was not posssible, some strange error code. When I restarted and pressed f8 repeatedly, it started working.
To get all the drivers seems not possible, I have read that many has problems with malfunctioning keyboard after upgrade. I do not know as I have my s200e connected to TV. Quite a lot of missing hardware drivers in the device manager, and I do not have a clue about what it is. For my use as a TV computer, it works well with external keyboard anyway.

 

Hi @miasac
How did your install Win 10? When I try I get cannot install on this partition (partition 4 OS) as it gives an error.

Douglas Barr

 

My upgrade to Windows 10 went smoothly by just letting the computer decide for itself when to upgrade. Before that, i attempted to force to upgrade using wuacutl.exe, or downloading the ISO (which worked with my Thinkpad X240), but it ended in error every time. I left it alone for a while, then one day, there's a notification that it's ready. I let it download the installation files and proceed.

The only one hair in the soup during this experience is that I lost the Samsung touchpad driver, and that's why I visited the site today to look for it and try to see if it will install in Windows 10. The Asus touchpad driver still sucks after all these years. It's even worse on the T100 Chi, while being ok on the T100 TAM.

 

Windows 10/Trackpad Drivers:
Updated S200E to Windows 10. Minor issue was that after installation the original trackpad drivers were non-functional. I uninstalled them through the Uninstall thing in Windows and downloaded the Windows 8 trackpad drivers from the ASUS site. I only do 2 finger gestures and they work fine. There is an odd lag (1-2 seconds) where the mouse is gone on wake up from sleep, as the trackpad driver seems to disable itself on sleep and re-enable itself on wake up (my thinking for this is I see the icon for the trackpad driver pop into the system tray, and after that the mouse appears and works fine). I don't feel like digging deeper.
Previously in Windows 8.1 I had to adjust the trackpad driver in the Task Scheduler to not start again on wake up, as it allowed multiple instances and after sleeping it once two were running and conflicted. Only got worse as more appeared with each sleep session. Don't know why that was default configuration, but the reinstall in Windows 10 didn't bring that up again, only the thing I mentioned above.

Hardware Adjustments:
I installed a Cruicial BX100 512 GB SSD with no issue. Improved performance greatly. I used the included Acronis program to make an image to clone it. Could also use the built in Windows image creation tool if your drive didn't come with a cloning program, which I found does not offer much over the Windows one - especially in its cut-down state.

I also redid the thermal paste with the glorious Arctic MX-4 while I was there. If I remember correctly I may have put it on the RAM chips too, as they are somewhat covered by the weird flat thin bit on the heatsink. I might have put in copper spacers to help with the connection though I don't really remember at this point. RAM chips usually do not get hot, especially in this low power, low speed instance - but I could so I did.

Undervolting:
As I remember, ThrottleStop has no control over the voltage in the laptop. The Intel XTU has no control over the voltage in the laptop either, or it won't install. I don't remember which for the XTU. In either case, there is no way to undervolt the laptop through software. Sad, almost all Core2Duo and the i7-4700MQ I had both had voltage control through ThrottleStop and/or XTU (for the i7-4700MQ).

Battery Life and Power Settings:
I get about 3-4 hours of battery life out of it, erring on the 4 hour side, with the SSD on 80% brightness, or something that is very close to 100% visually. Like 2 ticks down in the "brightness scale" in Windows 8/10. I use the Balanced power plan in Windows. Importantly, make sure that the Intel Dynamic Platform and Thermal Framework Settings in the "advanced power settings" part of the plan are set to 13W TDP for on battery and plugged in. The 8W (forced 1 GHz max) is damn slow. Also disable "Low Power Mode Setting." I think I put those on for battery mode to save power but they just made things abysmally slow.
The battery claims 15% wear after a year or two of ownership, though I really don't remember when I got it.

Throttling, Temperatures, and Performance: (i3-3217U, 4GB single channel 1333 MHz RAM)
The laptop idles at around 47-50C in a 70F room. The fan spins and is mildly audible. It gets a tad warm where the air exits and in the surrounding keyboard area.

It gets up to 55-65C in a 70F room when web browsing. The fan spins at the same rate.

Running IntelBurnTest on Standard leads to throttling at about 80 seconds in for no apparent reason in temperatures. It throttles down to 1.4 GHz from 1.8 GHz. The temperatures never breached 90C and hover around 80-85C. After that throttling it stays around 1.4 GHz starts dropping to 1.3 GHz after about 60 more seconds. It keeps bumping up to 1.4 GHz still. During the time where the test is preparing for the next run it reaches 1.8 GHz again but drops back to 1.4-1.3 GHz when the 100% loading occurs. The fan is quite audible in this mode. The machine got a little warmer but not much, ambient is 70F yet.

After letting it cool down for a bit, Unigine Heaven was run. It got 3.5/89/2.3/6.3 for Avg FPS/Score/Min FPS/Max FPS in that order, presumably targeting 13W. Comparatively, an AMD Z-01 in a Windpad tablet scores 1.9/48/1.4/3.1 while having 1 GHz, dual core CPU that targets 4.5W. An i7-4700MQ's integrated gets 10.8/271/7.1/19.9 with its 45W envelope. The settings were high quality textures, moderate tessellation, x4 AA, and 1366x768 - it can't exactly game well on "high end" settings. As for temperatures and clock speeds, it is all over the place. The GPU never holds its maximum rate of 1 GHz for longer than a few seconds and then sticks around 700 MHz. The CPU tries to stay near 800 MHz after a bit. Temperatures are around 80-85C again with the same fan noise as before. Eventually (a minute or two) the GPU works its way down to 450-500 MHz. Temperatures are always 80-85C, never more. Machine got a little warmer again, but not much. Ambient still 70F.

The BIOS is on version X202E.206. The computer reports its name as an X202E despite it saying S200E on the bottom and not having Bluetooth, and I assume a 2nd antenna. Maybe I will put the latest on, but I can say that BIOS version does not seem to affect throttling - as this is an older version and with a good thermal paste application the laptop is better behaved than others report.
Under light load conditions it can happily hold 1.8 GHz to make most simple tasks quick.

 

So, here is the story.
I've bought an used x202e on eBay *in perfect condition, not a scratch on it*.
It came upgraded to Windows 10, but since I wanted to do a clean slate I've cleaned all the partitions and formatted the hard drive. I've also upgraded BIOS from 206 to 210.
So far so good. Then, I've installed Ubuntu on it, but I thought that it would be a good idea to install Windows 10 again and run it as dual boot.
Windows 10 rewrote the GRUB so I had to fix that one as well, but I've accidentally erased its boot partition and (of course) it wouldn't boot.
So I decided to do it again but this time, to do it properly, I wanted to install Windows first and than Ubuntu later.
Again, I've deleted all the partitions, formatted the HDD and started Windows 10 installation from a pen drive. It went well up to a point, but then it got stuck on "Wait a moment" (or something) screen, and after some time I did a hard reset. After the restart, the installation continued but got stuck again. I did a hard reset once again, but this time laptop wouldn't POST anymore.
What I get right now is: power led is on, Wi-fi led flashes for a second, HDD starts spinning and then it all stops. The screen is black and I can't enter BIOS or anything.
I've checked the HDD - works fine, attached an external monitor to see if I'll get something that way - nothing. Tried to boot without HDD - same thing. Tried to boot with a pen drive - no luck.
The rest of the components are soldered on the motherboard so I can't check if it's memory, processor or BIOS.
I think that without the memory it should still be able to enter BIOS so it could be either processor or BIOS. Processors almost never dies on the default settings so corrupt BIOS seems most likely (or so I wish to think since it can be replaced. The laptop run on battery the whole time so there is no chance that there was a power surge or something that could fry the components.
I've tried unplugging the battery, holding power button for 60 seconds, clearing the CMOS, no results.
I've run out of ideas what to do so any suggestion is welcome.
Thx!

 

So guys, after my X202E motherboard died, I decided to do some upgrades and I would like to sell it. What I upgraded:
Motherboard, previous had a Pentium 2117U, new motherboard has a rare Core i5 3317U
Heatsink, instead of the flat sheet of heat sink it had I found one that had an actual copper pipe that fitted and added some small aluminum heatsinks and AS5 thermal paste. Thanks to that, laptop never throttles or goes past 80*C while intensive tasks (locked at 2.4 GHz)
HDD, I replaced the 500GB HDD for a 240GB SanDisk SSD, it fast. With the SSD, gaming has improved significantly. I believe the HDD was bottlenecking the CPU because with the SSD games not only load faster but are much smoother and have higher FPS since it doesn't stutter when loading maps.
I really want to upgrade to Sky Lake based laptop because of the iGPU but first I need to sell this one. It's in fair conditions with minor wear over 3 years. Worst is there a very small chippings, and tocuhpad is somewhat shiny because of use. How much could I expect to sell it for?

 

Have any you with an X202e downgraded to Windows 7? I've had windows 10 on it for awhile, thinking about going back, not sure how it would do.

 

I have this laptop Asus Vivobook S200E with i3 3217u 1.8ghz and 4GB ram , here is some problems i have with this laptop:

1. Procesor throttling to 798mhz and 998mhz if Intel® Dynamic Platform and Thermal Framework Driver is not installed , only this version fix procesor throttling DPTF_Intel_Z6061082.zip , for Windows 10 , after install this and restart laptop procesor work on 1796mhz great!

2. Procesor throttling to 798mhz and 998mhz if temerature is 90c + more then 15-20 minutes , cooling system is quiet but terrible.

3. Procesor throttling to 798mhz and 998mhz if battery is below 10% , better plug in charger if you see batery is only 10% maybe this is only bug in Windows 10?

4. Screen have dark contrast.

 

Hi, my touchscreen ( outer glass) is cracked and I want to replace it. In order to find the right digitizer, I need to know the exact model of my Asus laptop. However, when checking it through system specifications, it says X202e but on the cover, the model is indicated as Q200e, though there is also x202e info, somewhere between Chinese characters. So do digitizers( glass) differ? which one is the correct model? Thanks