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    How screwed am I?

    Discussion in 'Apple and Mac OS X' started by deadmacbook, Nov 13, 2010.

  1. deadmacbook

    deadmacbook Newbie

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    One day, literally out of the blue, my 13" MacBook Pro (2.26) stopped charging. I was actually in the middle of using it when I realized that a) the Magsafe light was no longer green but instead now had no color and b) the battery indicator on the top right hand corner of the screen switched to displaying the battery percent.

    I actually didn't think much of it at the time so I kept on using it. I assumed that the outlet blew out or something, since I was at a hotel.

    However, when I got down to around 20%, I decided to switch outlets - to no avail. It would not charge. I thought that it was a MagSafe issue so I used someone else's MagSafe charger but it still wouldn't charge (and my MagSafe charger would charge THEIR laptop).

    Browsing online I thought it was a DC In board issue so I ordered a new part online and replaced it. However, I'm not sure if I damaged the logic board in the process of replacing it or if it wasn't an issue with the DC In board in the first place, but now instead of showing no light at all on the MagSafe charger, it is now a steady, blinking green light. The computer won't turn on and won't charge, even after a PRAM reset and SMC reset. Googling wasn't much help; it seems like people mostly have problems with an alternating green and orange blink. Mine's just blinking green.

    Any ideas? The computer is out of warranty. It was my first Mac, and will probably be my last...
     
  2. Bog

    Bog Losing it...

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    I was going to make a suggestion, but apparently I can't delete my post since it is irrelevant. Right now your options are:
    - sell the unit as is
    - send it in to Apple for repair
     
  3. deadmacbook

    deadmacbook Newbie

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    Does Apple charge a diagnostic fee if I bring it in? Is there any other place I can get a diagnostic for free?
     
  4. masterchef341

    masterchef341 The guy from The Notebook

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    you can make an appointment at the apple store and they will look at it in front of you for free. if it's a simple fix they will probably do it on the spot. otherwise you will have to sign before they start working on it / charge you.

    also, follow these steps in order. there may be a few things that are important to try that you did not.

    http://support.apple.com/kb/ts1365
     
  5. deadmacbook

    deadmacbook Newbie

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    Are you sure? When I got this same MacBook Pro serviced twice for a different issue (faulty hinge) each work authorization sheet had a "If you do not authorize repair, a diagnostic fee will be charged" on it.
     
  6. crazycanuk

    crazycanuk Notebook Virtuoso

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    depends on your location they may or may not charge a diag fee. most times its waived IF you do the repair .. as for the issue I think its a bad logic board .. all im going to say is OUCH if its off warranty
     
  7. deadmacbook

    deadmacbook Newbie

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    One thing that I'd like to note: most online sources say that 661-5235 is the part number for the DC-in board of the 13" MBP (2009). However, the part that I purchased was 922-9307, which most sites report as the MagSafe for the 15" model.

    The main reason why I decided to "risk it" was because of the large price difference (around $50, as the 15" is around $20 while the 2009 13" is $70) and because ifixit's website here: MacBook Pro 13" Unibody MagSafe DC-In Board (661-5235, 922-9307) - iFixit states that "This product works in: All 13" Unibody MacBook Pros" and one of the model numbers say: 922-9307 so I assumed that the MagSafes were interchangeable.

    To summarize, another possible reason why it still won't boot up: the DC-In boards are NOT interchangable; the problem with the laptop was indeed with the DC-in board, and that the new DC in board is incompatible as well. It might explain why with the old DC-in board the light didn't turn on at all, but with the new DC-in board it blinks green.

    Can any of you who are more technologically/electrically well-versed confirm or refute that the DC-in boards between the 15" and the 13" 2009 are interchangable? I'd rather not shell out another $70 to experiment, especially if I'm forced to end up selling the whole thing "as is" for parts on eBay for $350.