Output to plasma via HDMI

When I use the HDMI output to connect to my 50" pioneer plasma I get an image that has black bars on the top and bottom so the image on the plasma looks squished. Anyone know how to get a full screen on the plasma?

 

Make sure you are output the screens native resolution like 1080p and check the TV's aspect ratio options (Full, Zoom, 4:3, 1:1, etc).

 

I first have to change the input on my plasma to PC mode, then I have to set my output resolution on the m11x to 1024. That is the only way so far I can get a full screen, and it still looks a little compressed. anyone else seeing this? Is there anyone else here with a Pioneer KURO that has connected his/her m11x?

 

THX5334 has a Kuro, and unless I'm mistaken, he's get 1080p output from his M11x. Have you gone into the Intel Graphics Properties and looked at the aspect ratio setting?

 

Yeah, I have a 50" Kuro and a 60" Kuro Elite and the M11x outputs a 1080p picture to both flawlessly.

As Slickie said, you have to set it to 1920x1080 @60hz in the intel integrated graphics for it to work.

Also make sure your Kuro's picture is set to Dot by Dot.

The machine really is a portable HTPC as much as a game machine and another thing that is making me really love the M11x

 

Thanks THX...I'll give this a try tonight.
On a side note...did you get your Kuro calibrated? Wondering if there is a huge difference in picture after cal. Right now I'm using Optimum mode, as I'm not that impressed with other owner calibrated profiles for Pure. I have a KRP-500m btw.

 

Uncalibrated HDTV's should be a punishable offense in my book. Confiscation of said TV and replacing it with a 10 year old CRT would be suitable.

 

With todays technologies, a professional isf calibration is an utter waste of money. Tweaking the picture using a dvd such as Video Essentials makes much more sense and most people prefer their picture with more contrast and 'pop' then a straight calibration would give them regardless. The bottom line people should enjoy their televisions they purchased as they see fit.

 

Calibration of one's tongue-in-cheek meter is essential for today's modern man too.

 

I'm not sure I could perform a self calibration with all the tweaking options the KURO allows...definately weeks or months of research. I suppose I'll slowly save for the ISF cal...the m11 kinda cut into the cost of that, but so far is definately worth it

 

ok got it...I assume you can't have 1080p output with the notebook display on. Looks great on the KURO!

 

THX,
one thing...I can't select dot to dot on the KURO, only full and 4:3. Any reason why dot to dot is better here? Any idea why I can't see dot to dot (Using PC mode btw when I hook up the m11) Also, what do you set your orbiter to when you hook up your m11...I don't want to accidently burn something in with all the static images (i.e. windows start bar)

 

Actually, I got both my 5020 and my 60" Elite professionally calibrated by Avical.

The same company used by Pixar and Lucasfilm to calibrate all of their equipment.

Best decision I ever made.

Improved my PQ immensely. Your model of Pioneer is actually kind of the best one of all as with a professional calibration they can tweak it to actually give you deeper blacks than the Elite. I have seriously considered selling my Elite and replacing it with your model just for that reason. And let's be clear, this can only be done via professional calibration.

I have no clue where the logic comes from the poster who says you don't need a calibration. Maybe not a Best Buy one as they are hustles.

When I got my 5020 there was a weird yellow sheen to movie mode and the others and offset colors that the calibration fixed. When I got my Elite, they were able to add two new picture modes, ISF Night, and ISF Day for exactly as implied and ISF Night is refrence accurate and our main picture mode.

I also sprang a little extra for they can do a calibration trick for movie mode on the Elite to give B&W films their true intended more monochrome look that you would see if they were projected from an original print rather than they charcoal like grey most B&W films look like when broadcast.

Not doing a calibration from a professional company like Avical for the kind of display you have is like having a Ferrari and modifying it to never be able to go above 4th gear.

You are simply not tapping into the full power and potential of that display nor getting the most return for your investment.

As for you not being able to find dot by dot, that is in the picture size options of the Pioneer, since the one you have was never made/meant as an "HDTV" but rather as a large format display/monitor, you might not have that feature. Check the product documentation.

As for the M11x, it absolutely does output 1080p video or for gaming, Transformers: War for Cybertron (great game btw, and I'm not even a Transformers fan) automatically adjusts to 1920x1080 when running it through the Pioneer.

All though when gaming, the frame rate hit to play games is too much at 1080p so I just let it play at 1366x768 which when displayed on the Pioneer. Which gives what I'd estimate to be about a 36" picture on either the 50" or 60".

That's still a pretty big size picture to have output and not take a hit on your FPS.

Movies streaming from the HD run at full 1080p through the Intel HD, and while never losing synch between audio and video, the video would sometimes speed up or catch up with the audio, unless I closed more background apps.

If you're going to not have your Pioneer calibrated than I agree that Optimum is probably the best mode, as it was all I used before calibration. Now I never use it.

Same with the Orbiter. I didn't notice it really do anything before, and after calibration it's useless and not needed as you already have a reference accurate picture, so mine went back in the box in storage.

Your model of Pioneer with the calibration tweak can produce the deepest blacks of all. You really are shooting your self in the leg not to get one.

Check AVS forums and you'll find tons of info to validate this.

Also, check out Avical. If you're in the states they can get the job done. If not, AVS forums has a list of certified and respected calibrators.

Seriously, get your set calibrated. You have no idea what you're missing. My wife who is not a videophile, and has a layman's eye for PQ and such, paid for the first calibration with hesitancy. She was so impressed with the change in PQ quality, she already insisted that we get another when we bought our Elite.

I can't recommend it enough, get your Pioneer calibrated.

 

wow thanks for the detailed response THX. I have been part of the AVS community for a while now. I certainly know the 500m is the best display around , just wanted to know your personnel opinion on cal. I've noticed the yellow tinge with PURE and MOVIE mode as well. The 500m can display dot by dot, but that option seems to disappear when I connect the M11x. As for the oribter, I think you should turn that setting on to avoid burn-in (either 1, 2, 3...I forget the differences between the three). The PQ is better with oribter off, but I fear burn in with static images from the windows desktop. I really wish there was a way to have optimus leave the nvidia card on for HD movies. Anyways thanks for the info...I'll certainly be using my m11 more with the 1080p now Enjoy your KURO...I'm fairly certain that the 500m is really hard to come by now (maybe ebay?) so act fast if you want one. I think the 600m is even harder to come by, but the blacks on the 600m are said to be not as good as the 500m. Now....to start saving for calibration!

 

You know, I had the Orbiter confused with that box adapter thing you plug in that is supposed to adjust color on the fly based on the room conditions, but yeah, Orbiter! In terms of the burn in protection I leave that sucker on "Video Mode 2" constantly. Both my sets only have 2 modes, I don't have a 3rd. I don't doubt that yours does though.

After going through the proper burn in period, this thing is fire and forget. I've gamed on it for hours at a time with no issue. MSNBC is practically the only channel one of the units is on and there is no logo issues at all. The picture is fantastic.

I doubt I'll go through the hassle and headaches of trying to switch out a unit now. We're going to keep both and save up for a quality projector and screen.

Let me know how your calibration works out. I can't recommend Avical enough.

If you go into your Nvidia Control Panel and set your Global settings on the managing your 3D tab and set it to solely the Nvidia card rather than automatic or Intel, it should run all your movies in HD.

 

What I actually stated was that doing it yourself with a dvd such as Avia or Video Essentials is a much better value then a professional calibration with todays hdtv technology. In the past there were many more variables such as convergence to worry about with CRTs that made a professional calibration more attractive. However with todays technologies, anyone can calibrate their own television within spitting distance of what an isf calibration will get you for twenty dollars instead of three hundred. Its extremely simple to use these discs. Just follow the instructions screen by screen, it walks you through every little detail. At the end of it you will have an end result that is very close to what the 300 dollar calibration will get you. Also, you can tweak things more to your own viewing preferences, which is a big no no with the isf technicians. For some, its almost like a cult. If you don't have your color temperature and contrast set to exactly their standards, you are in the wrong regardless of what you really think of the picture. I personally prefer my picture brighter and sharper then the dark muddy mess that is considered perfectly calibrated. If you would rather spend three hundred or more for something you can do inexpensively yourself, by all means have at it.

 

Avia, THX and Video Essentials is better than nothing, I'll give you that. I'll also give you the fact that there are some makes and models that are pretty decent out of the box today, whereas not very long ago this was most definitely not the case. Geometry adjustment, while helpful back in the day of rear projection, was just a side benefit to the more important issue tuning grayscale. After rear projection TVs were calibrated no one's jaws dropped because suddenly squares were a little bit more square and pin cushioning was minimized. They were wowed by the clarity and color fidelity gained.

How many TVs have you personally had professionally calibrated? Given that you think hardware calibrated output equals "dark muddy mess," I'm guessing none. If you have seen calibrated output that looks that way then whoever did it didn't have a clue what they were doing.

It's really simple, because the level of detail that you're adjusting is merely a basic approximation of what a real calibration entails.

Why would someone that you paid to calibrate your system care what you did afterward? Why would they, or anyone else for that matter, begrudge you tweaking it to your tastes? And why would you care if for some reason they did?

You like your picture sharper? Sharper than digital output? Hmm...

It's great that you're able to achieve a picture on your TV(s) that you're happy with. That's all that matters. It's also fine that others think it's worthwhile having their displays and/or TVs calibrated to a different standard than what you consider reasonable.