replaced my screen now its dim help plz :( , help fix edid

You tried the sliders in the power options? They keyboard shortcuts will not work.

 

Yes nothing worked

 

Some said there is a way to override the edid but a modified inf but I think that didnt work.

 

Ok I am out of ideas then. Adding EnableBrightnessCo trol worked for me and Darcoder.

 

I will pay for ur service plz

 

I spent 3 days looking for ideas nothing ever worked thanks for ur help.

 

Tag t456 as @bloodhawk told you.

 

ashknani, are you a high school or a college student?

 

nop just graduated ?? what does that got to do with anything ?

 

Well you were sorta acting like an overexcited high school student., and I was going to offer a suggestion i felt might be helpful, but with that attitude where you are acting needy and entitled, maybe I shouldn't have said anything.

 

Ur probably right.

 

Had some pm's back-and-forth with @ashknani and nothing software-wise seemed to make any difference.

There is one hardware mod that is guaranteed to work; snipping the PWM wire on the display cable (this one being responsible for brightness control). On most displays these work on a voltage=off basis, so disconnecting it entirely will ensure 100% brightness, regardless of any software setting. Tested just now on my 4-lane eDP display and this worked as expected:

Spoiler: LQ133T1JW02 - 40-pin, 4-lane eDP cable, full brightness

It isn't very hard to do, requiring only pliers or scissors and some tape. Sleep-mode, closing the lid and other backlight-off's will still work since this mod will only affect the dim signal, not the 'backlight-fully-off'. The process is also reversible by simply soldering the wire ends back together.

1.) First locate the appropriate pin and its wire. On a 30-pin eDP it's #23 and on a 40-pin (such as the OP's B173HAN01.1) it's #33:

LQ133T1JW02 - 40-pin, 4-lane eDP cable, wrapper

2.) Peel back the wrapper, clip the pwm wire and wrap the ends with a piece of tape (just in case, to prevent shorts):

LQ133T1JW02 - 40-pin, 4-lane eDP cable, pwm-wire cut

Done; 100% brightness.

However, if the situation is not low-brightness (10%), but actually no-backlight-at-all then it needs a different mod. No-backlight means you need to shine a flashlight on the screen to see anything on the display, if it's just barely visible then it's the pwm-snip you want.

1.) Take a small piece of thin wire and short backlight-on/off with either Vdd (control voltage) or ground (control ground):

LQ133T1JW02 - 40-pin, 4-lane eDP cable, short vdd (or gnd) and bl-on

Actually guessed wrong here, btw . Had to short it to 23-26/ground instead; this mod resulted in backlight permanent off. Anyway, swapping the wire resulted in full-on, but the disadvantage with this mod is that nothing will ever turn off the backlight, meaning continuous power draw even in sleep-mode or closed lid (~80% of the lcd's consumption is due to the backlight). Mind also that soldering 0.4mm pitch is finicky business, so wouldn't try this without a magnifier and small-tipped soldering iron. A shop might be better suited if you don't happen to have such tools.

Ps.
Flashing an edid to a modern eDP panel requires hardware tools since the panel's eeprom is likely write-protected. If that were also true on the bricked LVDS displays then they'd never have bricked in the first place. Could still flash a white-listed edid on this B173HAN01.1, but then you'd need a programmer and probably jumping the wp-pin on the eeprom. Also very risky business since you chance to corrupt the non-edid part of the firmware even by merely reading out the eeprom (fixed it, fortunately ...). Might still attempt this, of course, but do be careful then.

An edid tracked down by @ashknani will probably work fine for an edid-flash; it's from a B156HTN05.x, equally a 15.6"+120Hz+1080p+Dell (physical size is irrelevant). Only question is how the system will handle positive vs. negative sync polarity ... it might offset the screen a bit, yet is otherwise harmless to try:
edids AUO51ED and AUO119D.7z

 

@t456 @Falkentyne @bloodhawk
I think I have encountered the same issue as @ashknani . I try to upgrade my 1080p screen to 2k 120 (with tobii)
However, the difference is that I brought the qualified screen model as 2k 120hz alienware 17 r4 would use (auo1496/ auo B173QTN 1.4)
I have tried reinstall the whole system also the driver but my gtx1080 still can't recognize the screen and neither change the brightness.
@bloodhawk I now I use the same screen as you but my cable is different. I use 2PVJC rather than WTNR3.
Please help

 

FYI my laptop is alienware 17 r4 7820hk

 

https://imgur.com/a/aObti81
Pic here

 

i just got myself a B156HANO4.2 120Hz IPS panel for my alienware 15 r2, which had a crappy LGWF6SPA M1, with peak brightness of 220 nits.. i love the new 120hz IPS panel with 72% NTSC color gamut, little backlight bleed due to my bezel.. apart from that brightness stuck at maximum, tried adding enablebrightness control command to registy, nothing works.. its a 30pin edp AUO panel.. is it hardlocked ??