*OFFICIAL* Alienware Area-51M R1 Owner's Lounge

The last one I had just went to black screen gpu died no fire or smoke lol.
That's what I am running now, but for some weird reason im playiing Metro and i drop to 13 fps with thermals not even hitting 87C
It hits 72 tops

 

72 seems pretty low ! Repaste with LM ?

Or could it be a throttling effect that lower the GPU frequency ?

What's saying GPU-Z ?

 

I haven't repaded and repasted yet, but I plan to do it shortly. Considering the heatsink may have an irregular surface creating a variable gap between it and the mosfets as @S.K pointed out, and taking into account the mounting process could be partially or totally automated and the stock pads are standard for all the machines, it could be reasonable to think that all the burn issues were caused by pads not making proper contact with the heatsink. That, added to no undervolting. If I remember well, all or almost all burned laptops were running at stock voltages with no undervolt.

 

Missed you guys too.... was engaged in some family burial , so was a bit choked

Except for Apple I think most companies run away when they see customers come back with issues , Apple wins them 97% of the time even for out of warranty repairs

Once I saw Azor left , I knew it was game over but heck am pushing my system above the limits , 5ghz all d time -120mv , zero GpU underclock rather overclock 125 and 500 , look if it burns it burns I move on to something else , I don’t wanna baby sit it . Am already disadvantaged by location let me enjoy myself before it explodes

I wish we could UV from bios , sad I have to UV every boot up and we don’t live where there is 24hr light else it will never go off forever

Just keep pestering them till u get all the parts u need , like SK said, if everything is working and u have some extra parts for a quick fix , I guess this is one of the best beast on ground at the moment , even better than Titan


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Confusing. Isn't it? Phobya makes it, but would you get a different batch depending on where you are located. See http://www.performance-pcs.com/brand--phobya for additional info.

But you should be able to find it on amazon, newegg (US anyways) frozen-CPU, and a couple of German sites as well.

IIRC, some of those ideas for blocking liquid metal were covered here - http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...r-liquid-metal-safety-insurance-guide.817207/

 

Anyone knows why this happens? So quite often my PC wakes up within 3 seconds after going to sleep. This only started to happen last couple weeks
Event viewer doesn't show any warning or error, a successful sleep and a normal wake up.

I checked what woke my pc up using powercfg. and it always gives this, for when it wakes up in that manner:
Friendly Name: Intel(R) USB 3.1 eXtensible Host Controller - 1.10 (Microsoft)

I have a single USB 3.0 hub connected to my pc (the one in my external monitor, to which my keyboard and mouse is attached to, and that's it) and nothing else. I tried disconnecting it. But that didn't solve the issue. Even without any usb device attached to it I could reproduce the issue.

I went into the device manages and Seeing this:


That's the only place where I saw the mentioned devices.
I went into their properties and disabled "allow this device to wake up this pc".
And did that for the both Intel 3.1 Controllers.

That didn't solve the problem. SO I also disabled the Nvidia one. But again without success.

Anyone knows this issue? Or how I could solve this?

 

That's very reasonable considering the burns have been on the same mosfets.
Also all the originally released machines that myself and my friends have, which have replaced proper pads, have not had any issues.

Which gap are you referring to?

 

Any word on what this 1.6.2 bios includes / how it's working for people? My CPU seems to be running hotter by a few degrees but nothing terribly disconcerting (just sucks that I can't seem to play many games without fans blasting, but that's the nature of the beast I suppose). GPU thermals remain fine (2070 here).

 

The gap between the mosfets and the heatsink. I mean the surface of the heatsink is irregular in some cases and the distance between it and each mosfet is different for each one and each machine. In some cases 1.5mm pads seem to fill the gap perfectly while in other cases you may need 1mm or 2mm (in other cases maybe even more than 2mm is needed to make proper contact with the heatsink)

 

Basically, you're saying to cover the solder bumps on the board where parts are connected to it (e.g.backside or some frontside parts) but not smd components themselves. Might come in useful on a desktop sometime too.
Would something like this also work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9YIV6/

 

Anyone have a Link to the Killer network blocker/uninstaller?
Also anyone has a link to the latest Audio driver and the latest Wifi/Ethernet driver?

Thanks

 

The MHz drops to 500 then 300. I’m not sure what’s the problem. I reinstalled the drivers from Nvidia and dell website and the same issue.

I uploaded the log file for anyone that wants to help me out. NO OC on gpu or cpu.

 

https://support.killernetworking.com/knowledge-base/how-do-i-remove-the-killer-control-center/

The blocker is included in the uninstaller.

Audio driver:
https://downloads.dell.com/FOLDER05...282-Audio-Driver_RJ69W_WIN_6.0.8699.1_A02.EXE

Killer drivers:
https://downloads.dell.com/FOLDER05...luetooth-Driver_25G5W_WIN_21.0.0.4_A00_01.EXE
https://downloads.dell.com/FOLDER05...thernet-Controller_P1JP0_WIN_2.0.1167_A12.EXE
https://downloads.dell.com/FOLDER05...535-WiFi-driver_KRTJH_WIN_2.0.1168_A04_03.EXE

 

I had already read something similar and was puzzled as to the attempt for anonymity of the company behind a product! Are they not proud of their name/location/history or are they hiding something? Would Mercedes sell you a car, say the CLS350, without a badge and without any labels for you to identify what make and which factory the car was made in? To me this smells a rat.

 

Yes. It seems odd to me too, but I haven't run across many complaint posts here at NBR.

 

Are you talking about the top or bottom of heatsink?

 

I would downgrade to system bios 1.5.0, and vbios 1.0.0.3. The main reason being that with those two firmwares installed, there's no silly throttling that occurs in order to keep the temperature of the GPU below 75c. The latest 1.6.2 system bios just seems unstable in a lot of ways to be honest.

 

I 2nd this.

 

Try disable wake timers. I have had this issue before (although I've never had it wake up in a few seconds, more like 30+ mins) and this has always solved it.



You'll need to change it for both battery and plugged in for laptops.

 

Have you tried different HDMI cables?

Maybe try different inputs.

Mines been working fine.

 

guys, here are the scores that I get. are they average or at the upper limit?
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37210868?
https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/37211397?

finally, I managed to make it completely stable after a lot of torture tests with vray rendering, cinebench and prime95 with -100 unvervolting on cpu (all cores at x48) and undervolting the gpu at 968.
Cpu temperatures hovering around 91-92c (hottest core) while in full load and 73-74 on GPU. Both have LM conductonaut applied as I mentioned earlier. Anyone here who has done a successful delid and got better temps?

 

Have you got a bluetooth device (e.g. mouse) connected? The bluetooth controller is itself a USB device, and windows just records the last wake source as 'USB Controller' for anything connected via USB without any further details. You can more easily check which devices are connected to the USB controller by sorting devices by connection in Device Manager as shown below:



In theory you can then prevent wake up by changing the properties in the power management tab for each device and unchecking "Allow this device to wake the computer" (however this doesn't work for my bluetooth mouse and it wakes the computer anyway, it would be interesting to know if this solves it for you, assuming it is a mouse of course).

 

Thanks will give it a go when I'm back home

My bluetooth is enabled, but I don't think I have any device connected. I will try and see if there is anything, when I'm back home. Thanks

 

Hi all, please help if you can. I'm getting ridiculous framerate slowdowns in Overwatch (probably other games as well) shortly after each match starts. I have everything set to ULTRA, but my understanding is that my 9900K + 2080 should be able to handle that—is that wrong? I can go through and change the game settings to see if that has any effect, but I'd like to know first if this is a hardware/driver problem.

Pasting a couple MSI Afterburner images (taken in quick succession in the game) here in case that helps diagnose; please let me know if there's other info I can show/provide.

I did some more research, and it might have been the render scaling option in the game. Mine was set to 200% for some reason—not really sure what that does, but setting it to 100% seems to have fixed the issue at least for Overwatch.

 

You need to downgrade your bios to 1.5.0 or less.

 

this is the classic throttling issue because your gpu exceeds 75C. by selecting 200% scaling you force the gpu to work harder and with lower framerate than your v-sync limit (if its enabled), so the temp rises more. I also had the same problem before repasting and I downgraded the bios to 1.5.0. Now its rock stable without any drops.

 

Apologies. I meant to say that downgrading to System BIOS v1.3.2 and VBIOS v1.0.0.3 200W with this guide fixes any silly GPU throttling issues. Also be sure to disable the UEFI BIOS Capsule Updates feature in the BIOS Menu, otherwise Dell will automatically update the system bios to crappy v1.5.4 upon bootup.

After installing those two firmwares above. GPU clock speed should stick and not downclock to a great degree regardless of which temperature it has reached.

 

This wasn’t the case for me in this situation. I was getting slowdowns immediately upon starting a game, and the temp was well below 75. The problem was that I had a render upscaling option set to 200% instead of 100. No idea why that was a default setting for ULTRA, but making that change put me back to 150+ FPS through multiple matches.

 

Maybe Geforce experience did so

 

So it looks like AW's only solution is severely throttle the card at a low temp to keep the mosfets from burning up instead of properly padding them to the rear bracket for cooling?

Doesn't seem to bother the 2070's?

 

Are there any in-depth guides for repasting and repadding the 51M?

 

Bios version ? > 1.5.0 ??

 

I downgraded my BIOS back to 1.3.2 and disabled Capsule updates and also downgraded my VBIOS to the 1.0.0.3 200W version

 

1. A good way to start is Dell Service Manual, look for the "remove graphic card" step in the Table of Contents and then follow each steps :

https://topics-cdn.dell.com/pdf/alienware-17-area51m-laptop_service-manual_en-us.pdf

After that you'll have to check @S.K post for the height of each pad required :

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-owners-lounge.826831/page-1111#post-10911767

If you want to check what it looks like once repad & repaste, I've taken some photos of my operation I've just recovered from my previous repad&repaste :



Don't forget to use an antistatic field to work (with the special prong to connect on the ground of your wall outlet) : I bought this : https://www.amazon.com/LINDY-Anti-S...dy+antistatic&qid=1562086478&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut because I have a good batch... but Gelid Gc Extreme or even better Phobya Nanogrease Extreme will be perfect for both Gpu and Cpu.

Good luck ! :

 

This is exactly what was happening on my wife's 51m. Geforce Experience was upscaling the resolution and she was getting like 30-45 fps in games. Uninstalled and it hasn't happened since.

 

Quite two weeks passed and my swapped unit repaded and repasted......

.....
.....

Is still alive and rocking good !

Did a gaming session 2 days ago 2hours of PUBG followed right after by 2 hours of Overwatch... In the end of the session it reached the 85°c on GPU and rarely reach more than 72°c on CPU but never got hotter... but we were having very hard ambiant temperatures here...

Running 1.5.0 BIOS and 1.0.0.3 200W bios.

Still crossing fingers but it's a great unit... 9900K

 

Yeah that's called DSR

 

Yeah, I had it turned off and set to static 1080p on her system, yet everytime she restarted her machine it would go back to upscaling. Gave up and just uninstalled the garbage software.

 

yeah because when GeForce Experience applies the optimal settings, it sets DSR on

 

Did you pad the mosfets on the backside of the 2080?

 

got my replacement yesterday and compared it to my previous one.

Old one has the LG Panel, the new one the AUO.
no claim to scientificity, just a few impressions:

left one AUO, right LG.



Viewing angles a way better on the LG Panel (right one) while showing bright coloured content. Left AUO right LG



both in front of me looked pretty much the same. Left LG, right AUO



dark content looks better on the AUO due to lee IPS glow. Here left is LG and right is AUO.


viewing angles with dark content better on AUO due to less IPS glow. Ther is nearly no light bleed. What we see is minor IPS glow on the AUO (left top and right bottom) and heavy glow on the LG (whole screen).


I couldnt see any difference in response time. Both panels are able to run ~155hz

Summary:
both panels have pros and cons. For office work and for watching movies (and sitting around the notebook) the LG would be better due to better viewing angles.
For gaming (and sitting in front of the notebook) both panels are great. The AUO is slightly better here due to lower glow and this results in better black representation.

I will stay with the AUO this time.


GPU: The 2 RTX2080 could be twins. Core is the same (maybe +15mhz for my old one). Mem is slightly better on my new one (+100mhz)

CPU: is a lemon... 1.15v for 4700mhz while my pretested one needs 1.07v...

Coilwhine is identical on both.

Bios on the old one is 1.3.2, on the new one it was 1.5.4

Playing metro resulted in 74 degree and the clocks started at 1860mhz and droped slowly to 1600 or less. No 400mhz drops or similar. after flashing 1.5.0 clocks stayed at 1800+ all the time.

 

Perfect. Tnx! Are there any consensus on what brand and model of pads are best to use?

 

If you do choose to replace the panels, can you make a video out of it? There is no guide on the internet regarding this and I'm sure it would help a lot of people our there, especially when 2k and 4k screens starts to show up by the end of the year.

I've a replacement coming up in 2 weeks time and I would like to keep my current AUO as it is absolutely perfect screen.

Edit: why are you replacing the system though, I thought you already had one of the best performing system around here...
Sent from a Galaxy S9+

 

i would replace the whole panel assembly. Not the panel itself

i called dell to replace the gpu with the new revision. This part was not in stock so they ordered a new system...lol

it still is and the new one will perform the same once my CPU is placed in the socket. GPUs are similar overclockable

 

Hello,
We will recive rtx super on new area51m?

 

My glass sphere says ,,no,,

 

I was on 1.5.0 i switched to 1.3.2. It seems to be working fine.

I reinstalled windows and now G-sync isnt showing up on nvidia panel, any reason why?

 

No

 

They can't keep up with the heat on this one now, what makes you think that this would be a feasible option?

 

For sure .

I used thermal grizzly minus pad