New 17R4; repaste or rock it?

Hello everyone.

Been lurking on this forum for about a week now looking at thermal stuff for the 17R4. Discovered all this after I submitted my order, however I think I got a good one! Build date this month in November and an hour of playing FFXIV with a -.090mv undervolt on the CPU gets me 80*C MAX CPU temps on all four cores with differential on cores less than 3*C. This is also with the performance fan mode off. So here it comes. I preemptively bought everything I needed to repad/repaste with Thermal Grizzly LM and fujipoly. Should I just leave it as is? Or use what I bought and hope I can only go up from here? I have all the confidence in the world to do the repaste.

Matt

 

I'd go for it but that's just me

It's a lot of work but well worth it. I'm just not sure if it would be better using kyronaut first time for you, especially if you've not worked on an R4 before!

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It looks like an effort to get to the heatsinks on that model - I'd leave extra time so it's not a rushed job. Well, since you have the parts already, you may as well repaste. As said, if it's the first time you use Conductonaut (I assume Pete Light meant to say Conductonaut because Kryonaut isn't liquid metal), then be careful and mask off the area. If it's not your first time using LM, then you likely know all the warnings already.

You might have already seen this thread - shows the LM application:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...5r3-disassembly-repaste-guide-results.797373/

 

No I meant kyronaut because LM is risky and if it's his first time, there will be enough stuff to worry about let alone the LM as well

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I’m no stranger to tinkering with electronics, soldering, disassembly, or builds in general. I have not used liquid metal before though. Ive only ever used traditional paste. I do have the tape to mask everything off and I’ve read the guide iunlock posted. TBH it doesn’t look hard. I’ll probably repaste it this evening (the 1.5mm pads deliver today). If I bought the goods, I should use em right? I’ll make sure I post what kind of heatsink I got too since I seem to be one of the lucky ones with good core differentials.

Matt

 

I you can, add the "foam dam" that @Mr. Fox did with his LM repaste.

 

Eh? That's like someone asking for advise about a Mustang and you then giving advise about a family hatchback because you consider that to be safer.

In seriousness OP, LM application can easily become more difficult. For instance, the syringe for the LM is actually quite easy to push too hard and squirt a lot of the metal everywhere, hence the need to mask off the rest of the MB. You push a bit and nothing happens, then push a bit more and then suddenly it all squirts out like Mount Krakatau and your MB is getting some LM bukkake. Thermal Grizzly is a bit more forgiving than Coollaboratory in this respect but it's worth taking precautions.

 

Finished the repaste. I’ll have to say this, iunlock’s guide is truly a guideline when it comes to pad heights. At first, I used all the pads he described and I did a dry fit. I had several gaps that needed bigger pads! Most notably the 4 tiny squares above the GPU needed to be 1.5mm for me, and the bottom left of the GPU had one spot where it needed a 2.5mm pad. I noticed one of the doohickeys above the CPU is also shorter than the rest, so the .1mm pad was essentially useless. I had to use a 1.5mm there too. Best advice I can give is, take your time, get a BRIGHT flashlight, and do several dry fits scrutinizing the gaps in pads. MAN did it pay off! The liquid metal was a breeze to apply. I masked everything off with super 33+ and applied a pin drop to each die and each heatsink. Spread it to a nice uniform coat and then put everything back together. Results are:

After a 1hr stress test in OCCT, 40x overclock, fan performance off, no undervolt:

Average CPU core temp was 70*C with all cores within 4*C of each other.

Glad I did the repaste. Well worth the effort.

Matt

 

Glad it worked out for you

These machines have their issues but if you take the time to get them running their best they can really shine.

 

Lol very true, that happened to me in fact before! I'd recommend squirting over the heatsink first to get it going for sure.

My point with kyronaut is that there are other options for LM, I know he asked about specifically LM but really nice results are possible with kyronaut too if you perfectly balance the heatsink. I.e. there's a really good chance that Mustang may kill you and the very fast hatch back has no risk at all

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@Mrmatt3465 hey man, glad it worked well for you!
You didn't tell us what heatsink you got.
I am pretty interested as I am trying to get everything in order on mine and mine didn't have this nice core differential on stock.

 

You’re right! I forgot to say. It was a CCI heatsink. In fact, mine has a defect on it too. The tension arm on the #3 screw, the rivets weren’t bucked tight enough and the tension arm actually was just sitting there. Not a big deal though. Looking at the design of the heat sink, meat of the arm is below it and that tiny arm really just allows the head of the screw to press the sink down (like a washer essentially).

She runs perfect. Temps in the 60’s for hours of playing FFXIV max resolution and max setting with a 100mv undervolt and stock clocks (I honestly don’t need an overclock. It’s cool to see what it does but I think the difference is negligible for frame rate.)

Matt