[Alienware 17R4 / 15R3] - Disassembly + Repaste Guide + Results

Hey Guys, definitely need some of the collective wisdom. I have a 17R4 with a 7820HK and a 1070 (allegedly it's the "fixed" heatsink). I did iunlock's liquid metal fix using conductonaut and it worked beautifully for two weeks. Temperature was 70s max. I applied Window's creator update and moved to a new apartment and suddenly it thermally throttles even at stock frequencies. Core 0 can be 30C higher than the other cores which stay in the 70s. Did riding around in my laptop bag tilt the heat sink? Did I not use enough liquid metal?

Thanks to anyone who can give me insight because right now it's unusable!

 

yes

explain the tape is there to prevent messy thermal paste


also why did you even use 33+ with ic diamond lol?

have you tried to check your DC-in cable maybe got dislodged during the move? is the ambient temperature the same?

maybe even disassemble the machine to check for loose heatsink screws

@iunlock


if you have time try a clean install of windows 10 1607 (before creators update) and use shutup10 to cripple all the windows update elements, though I don't think that's the case

 

Hi Mobius, thank you for getting back to me. It isn't an DC power issue. It's like the heatsink shifted which caused the liquid metal to dewet from the weak side of the heat sink (single screw side). This would explain why Core 0 is 30C hotter than it was. Crazy that this could happen considering that I keep it in a padded carrying case. Would repasting and including more liquid metal this time be likely to prevent this problem in the future? The robustness of the heatsink on this laptop is killing me.

 

if the liquid metal would flow like that, I'm afraid that the only solution is to use more (dangerous) or flatten out the heatsink (time consuming)

 

How much does Iunlock or someone very reputable charge for re pasting and thermal pad replacement if I supply the supplies?

 

Awesome, ahh well. Think a new heatsink from dell will help at all? I really don't want to repaste if the heatsink is likely to shift because it's warped etc. It's always like 2 months backordered because they're never actually "fixed" despite what tech support always tells me.

 

Everything is done on a case-by-case basis and I don't know how much you could save by supplying your own materials. Your best option is to contact @iunlock since does awesome work and I highly recommend him/his services.

Given the resent posts by Mobius 1 advocating fraud I would *not* recommend that people send their systems to him. Again, @iunlock does superb work and would be my top recommendation for anyone wanting a system repaste and repad.

 

To clarify, it isn't needed with IC7, that's not a conductive compound.

 

If you were just switching a 1070 heatsink for a 1070 heatsink they would be unlikely to tell but Dell has several heatsink manufacturers and it might be noted what one guess on each laptop. Although they're also using different thermal paste and paste application methods and they'd also likely notice that the heatsink had been removed unless you repasted and then they might notice third-party paste.

If you switched the 1070 heatsink for the 1080 heatsink then they're a different design and so that would almost certainly be found when they refurbished the return unit.

And there might additional ways to tell, those are just what I thought of off the top of my head in a few minutes.

 

yep

they won't

if they do, buy a lottery ticket

 

I'm guessing you know this from experience? Honestly I'm no longer sure if you didn't damage your Razer Blade 14 when you were working on it and you're trying the same scam on them. I mean, if you're willing to do it in one case everything else you do will also become suspect.

Even if there is only a very, very slim chance that they could tell there is always a chance. You can say 'they wont' all you want but that doesn't change (and the more people commit a fraud like this the more likely Dell is to notice).

Plus you're recommending people do an overtly illegal activity and also screwing over anyone who got one of the returned systems down the line if Dell doesn't refurbish them properly.

But I'm guessing you don't care about any of that. Because why would you when you can just recommend more fraud down the line if someone else gets a dud system?

It's no different than buying something and then returning the box back to a store with a brick in it (although I guess the person down the line in this case gets a ****ty laptop instead of nothing). In both cases you're being a self-serving dick at the expense of others.

 

Ah, I guess I spoke too soon. It's the craziest thing. I had Prime95 running for an hour last night after some heavy gaming and temps were in the mid 70s. I turned it off before I went to bed last night.

I start playing some games today and temps are over 10 degrees higher with a lower ambient temperature. I hadn't even moved my laptop.

I can only guess that the LM moved around or something. Does that seem normal or does anyone have any other theories?

 

Did your DC-in cable burn? This happened with the haswell models.

 

How would I know if I burned it? I followed the procedure carefully and slowly.

Here's the error I am getting when I boot plugged in. I can't upload the image. "The AC power adapter wattage and type cannot be determined. The battery may not charge. The system will adjust the performance to match the power available. Please connect a Dell 240 W AC adapter or greater for the best system performance."

I used the Super 33+ just to be sure even though I know it isn't conductive. Should I remove it before the technician replace my MB or is it okay to just leave it?

 

It's not you that burn it, the Haswell model DC-in cable burned because too much current was pushed through it.

Well, if you get that error it is possible that cable was dislodged/not put in tight enough? I would check that before raising a warranty request.

 

@InvoluntarySoul said this awhile back "check the large white motherboard plug right under the fan, I bend one of the pin when I try to insert at an angle and power supply failed to get recognized"

I did it, I replugged it and tested. Done it twice. But got the same result. Is it the same one you're referring to? Thank you.

 

Well yes, if you cannot bend back the pin then mb replacement is the only way to go.

 

Okay thank you. Just one concern, should I remove the tape I left inside? Will the technician not question me why is it there? Repasting your unit doesn't void your warranty right?

 

It doesn't. Might be worth to remove to not cause any misunderstandings.

 

Okay okay. Thank you for your insight. I'm just afraid to disassemble the unit again and ****ed it up more.

 

just be careful and doublecheck everything before plugging in

being nervous is the source of mistakes, so try to be calm

 

Okay guys - i did the PCH mod yesterday and super chuffed !! under heavy load for an hour my PCH temp is 62-63 so dropped over 7 degrees.. my temp never goes over 60 on the GTX 1080 with LM and the CPU @ 4.1 with LM goes to around 62 under a heavy gaming session... think it's now as efficient as it will ever be ! oww and the Toshiba NVME SSD sits at 55 under heavy intense loads, which is WAY better than from the factory, still only at 4% wear too ! and it's been at that ever since i installed the heatsinks overall chuffed and a big thanks to @iunlock

 

what heatsink did u use for your toshiba ssd? any link?

 

Quick question (I bet someone already asked this):
The bit regarding "replacing the stock thermal pads with Fujipoly" will also work for the AW15 1070 R3 model? I mean, are the heatsink-mobo the same size/height/etc?

 

Great to hear mate. That's awesome...

Enjoy your system!

::iunlock::

 

Yes. Just make sure the size of the pads are correct.

::iunlock::

 

I made a thread a while back mate on the ones that fit search through my post history it will help you out.

 

It sounds similar to what happened to me, I moved my laptop and the temperature increased on core 0 by 30 degrees.

If I were to speculate, I'd say that liquid metal is great for dealing with uneven heat sinks but because the heatsink is uneven, it has a lot of large gaps between the heatsink and cpu. This "wiggle" room is really bad for liquid metal because the film thickness is much thinner compared to a thick paste like Kryonaut. I guess the only solutions might be more paste which can be dangerous or complain to Dell and get a new heatsink.

As far as a new heatsink goes, my experience is that tech supports only criteria for approving the part request is that you reach thermal throttling use their test conditions (software, cpu frequency, etc). There is absolutely no need to buy a new unit and switch the parts. And even if you did switch parts between an old and a new replacement unit, I know for a fact that they do not care. I was in a situation where choosing the best heat sink was actually suggested to me by tech support because they were so back ordered.

 

Hi Sir. I think we have the same issue. And you solved yours. But I didn't. Just wanna ask what did you do to solve the issue. Thank you.

 

Simple.... I was rushing it. When I plugged the cable in, right side as you're looking at the bottom of the computer, just below the fan. I bent one of the pins and it didn't go in.

I VERY VERY carefully got in there with tweezers, and a precision flat head screwdriver and slowly straightened it back out.

I can't stress how carefully you need to do this if that's your problem. You don't want to move it too much and end up creating a break point for the pin. Take it apart and check there first.

If that's not it follow all the wiring and connections between the input of the adapter and the battery.

I can't remember the exact setup as I haven't been in there in some time.

Though I never pulled it apart again after I repasted with the conductonaut, and it's been a while. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea for me to check in to see how everything is holding up.


I did run whatever benchmark it is that shoots you to another website and rates everything against others.

I am sure it's not an accurate representation, but it was cool to read:

Your computer falls into the 97th percentile. What that means is that out of 100 computers with the same specifications only 3 perform as well or better. This computer is obviously operated by a technical master.

That's right.... master.

Doctor who anyone? Lol

Again... I know it's just blown smoke... but it waa cool to read.

 

THANK YOU VERY MUCH SIR! IT WORKED! Turns out that 1 pin was bent.

 

Glad to hear all went well! Congrats and enjoy!

What did you repaste with?

 

That is a very different situation from what was being discussed previously, ordering a new unit and swapping faulty parts without telling Alienware or going through technical support, because, in the case you described, you had authorization to do the switch and Alienware was aware it was happening as part of support ticket.

Given my conversation with Alienware the other night I know that they would be *extremely* unhappy if someone replaced parts in a unit and sent it back outside of an approved exchange/replacement (and even then they would have to approve the switch). Because, as I have said many times, that would be considered fraud and treated as such.

But I think this topic has been beaten to death and hopefully it will not come up again.

 

Not sure what to do here. Wiped the LM on several times and I'm getting

#0 80
#1 53
#2 75
#3 52

Obviously 2 cores are not making good contact but I can't really troubleshoot other than adding a bit more at a time and I already feel like I've added too much. When starting out I didn't put enough and it was shooting to around 99


Edit: ended up adding more and it maxes out at around 70c on #0 with the rest around lower 60's upper 50's. This is when running Prime95. When running Intel XTU all cores are around upper 50's.

Edit: Added more and now all cores stay in the 60's even when Prime95 is running.

EDIT: They are all over the place now but at least the cores are within a few degrees of each other.

Are there any AW15 R3 in this thread? I only see temps for the AW17

 

have you tried the method of bending the top cpu retaining arm up? On the CPU heatsink, find the retaining arm that is all by itself and bend it upwards a bit (dont go crazy here) and that should help increase pressure on the upper edge of the cpu. It worked for me and the temp diff is 2-5 degrees now instead of 10-20.

good luck.

 

I did, not sure if it made any difference. What are your temps now with different stress test tools? Seems like not many people in this thread have AW15 R3's.

EDIT:

I don't get it, during benchmarks and tests the temps barely hit 70c. Playing FFXIV specifically the GPU jumps to 71c+ and CPU cores are all hovering around 90c. Even during OCCT the temps never go above 60c~.

Wit her 3 is going up to 80c on CPU and GPU.

 

synthetic test will never replicate real world temps (for better or worse)

 

Yea but I can't follow why 3D Mark wouldn't have the same issue. It's around 60 while benchmarking

 

my current ambient temps (depending environmental temps) are between 28-34. while gaming, it used to hit mid to high 90's, but now it tops out at 80 ( using Grizzly Kryonaut).
I did have to repaste it 3 times before I got it to this point though so...yeah.

 

3D Mark doesn't Stress your processor. Run Aida64 and put in Ungine Heaven simultaneous. Or use OCCT with Heaven.

 

Yea but it does stress the GPU. I am going to add a bit more. I honestly think I'm just being too cautious. The picture from page 1 looks like a hell of a lot more than I am using.

 

if you're not sure that the heatsink is flat, use ICD

it's a great stopgap thermal material until you can figure out what's wrong

 

It must be since I was able to at least once get temps really close on CPU

 

Does this repaste and repad fix the stutter issue that these laptops have when running more gpu intensive games

 

Yes

 

Here @iunlock says some pads "Not as important". What does it mean "No as important"? No need to replace?

 

Can you give me some info about the black tape pls

 

http://amzn.to/2t6b3On

 

It's not the same black tape that's on the heatsink above, though, just to be clear.

 

What you mean? I dont get it =.=, is this ok?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004WCCL/ref=psdcmw_256161011_t1_B0000AZ9HG