[Alienware 17R4 / 15R3] - Disassembly + Repaste Guide + Results

No that's by design and a large 10% improvement on the 6700HQ

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Hey there select "all controls"and not just core and post a picture and I'll tell you what to max



Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

The "all controls" and "core" is the exact same for me. Nothing new to turn up/down as you see in this pic. http://imgur.com/a/JBtYw

 

EDIT: there's more, but the rockers are for the graphics processor. See link: http://imgur.com/a/axkYI

 

Max these values:
Turbo boost short power max
Turbo boost power time window
Processor core iccmax
Turbo boost power max
Cache iccmax
Processor graphics iccmax
Processor graphics unslice iccmax

Not sure it work work on an HQ processor if you can't 0 the limits in BIOS though. @Papusan may know? ;D ;P

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Not much more you can do for this fully locked down BGA. I think you covered everything

 

I guess there's no need to fiddle with XTU then except to undervolt as much as possible?

 

Rather try ThrottleStop for undervolt. Less wasted processor cycles.

 

@zergslayer69 are you still accepting repastes? I have a 15R3 and live close to SF.

 

How / which program do you guys generally use to OC the gpu? I got a 1070 in my 15 r3 but unfortunately with micron chips (think i read something about these not oc'ing very well or being faulty?)

 

Maybe but in game difference will be nothing. Best GPU OC app I found is MSI afterburner

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Hello guys,

I have just received my replacement unit, a 15r3 7820HK with the GTX1070.

Here is the results of a 20 minutes OCCT runing with Heaven on max settings, no undervolt straight out of the box.

http://i.imgur.com/E4tawVD.jpg

My original unit was a 6700 and a tech guy came by to replace the MoBo but he broked the screen and the speakers while dismounting my computer and as a total newbie I am a bit scared of repasting myself especially after what the thech guy did.

What would be your adivces for me to do ? Watch some videos and repaste it myself ? What do you guys think about my new unit ?

Let me know if you need more infos or screenshots.

Thanks for your help

 

6700 is a locked CPu but 7820HK is a beast. Yes repaste it yourself, take it slow and mark/draw a rough layout of the PC with screw holes so that you won't forget the screws. If you're using traditional paste and are confused with how much amount of paste to apply you can refer my post here( credit to @judal57 ) [Q] AW 17" R3 / AW 15" R2- Repaste now or wait until your warranty expires?

 

Yeah that's not too great

I would definitely recommend trialling a game first and raising the rear an inch or two as well as a pretty aggressive undervolt. You'll need to disable the power limits first to unlock the CPU to get a true reading of any throttling and the temps when in game.

Also good job with the screen shot that's sufficient for now

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Thanks Vasudev for the link.
I have Kryonaut thermal grizzly.

Looking at this video it seems pretty "easy".

Can you confirm this method is correct and there is no need to remove MoBo, fan cables like in iUnlock tutorial ?

 

I recommend you follow @iunlock procedure because there is less chance of going wrong. You can refer the above linked video and be careful when removing Wlan antennas and use proper tools. For removing WLAN card use @iunlock video guide as a reference,
The amount of paste is insufficient. Use the amount I used.
If you see 15 R1/R2 disassembly this is easy. Good luck in repasting adventure.
EDIT: Forgot to include my repaste pictures <a href="http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/q-aw-17-r3-aw-15-r2-repaste-now-or-wait-until-your-warranty-expires.786912/page-3#post-10487120">[Q] AW 17" R3 / AW 15" R2- Repaste now or wait until your warranty expires?</a>

 

I'm considering returning my unit with the 7700hq in exchange for the 7820HK. Anyone with the 15r3 and i7 7820HK that can share their experience? I'm thinking mostly about the heat and how loud the fans are in idle/load with a repaste of course

 

Sorry for this newbie question but how do you disable the power limit ? I'm totally new to overclocking and stuff, I initally ordered the 6700 but the gave me a free upgrade to the 7820HK due to the problem on my first machine

I am now playing Witcher 3 on max settings to try the temps and I have done an undervolt of -120mv using Intel XTU

I will repaste tomorrow morning and I will keep you updated with the results

 

Check my posts on the previous page...

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

I can't find this customisation and set things to 0 ?

I went to the BIOSand enabled CPU performance, then reboot and set that to XTU : http://i.imgur.com/C4PdpNZ.jpg

Is there anything else ?

 

XTU looks good although I'd use TS and not XTU to undervolt.
What options do you have in BIOS can you show me? Which CPU do you have? If it's not HK then you may not have the same options as me

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

This is the only options I have in the perfomance section of the BIOS : http://i.imgur.com/BXVh14f.jpg

I have the i7-7820 HK

 

sorry i have never posted on a fourm before

 

that image is out of control...

 

i think i removed it

 

ok so lets try this again hello everyone hopefully i don't spam the thread again with a image sorry about that, so the question that i have is i received an alienware 17 r4 in February and it has been over heating extremely easily. There is no warrenty on this unit due to a huge mix up with alienware so i am on my own with it.
http://imgur.com/itAPu5L

here is the image of my temps i see iunlock that you decided to use the thermal grizzly conductonaut as your thermal paste. Some of the research that i have done says not to use it with an aluminum cooling system which from what alienware has told me that these systems have in them. So i was wondering if you had any issues with using this paste and if there is, what were they if you dont mind letting me know and what do you recomend me do. As for spec wise this system has the 6820hk processor with the 1080.

Thank you very much for your time

 

@Vasudev @Pete Light I repasted my computer this morning and I ran the exact same test as before, same room temps, 20 mins OCC with Heaven on max.

This is what I got AFTER repaste : http://i.imgur.com/TYrWaZF.jpg

and this is BEFORE the repaste : http://i.imgur.com/E4tawVD.jpg

This is another test after the repaste with the power limit disabled and the settings as montiened above by @Pete Light : http://i.imgur.com/QfgWkP3.jpg

Not really better temps..

The GPU runs at 76°C max and 64 average during the test

 

Disabling the Power Limit will make an improvement on the temps?

What is the meaning of the encircled things below? should I be worried? if so how can I fix it?
Sorry for my noob questions.

 

It means you've reached the TDP limit set by either Dell or yourself using XTU or ThrottleStop.

 

So I've noticed throughout several forums where people use one LM or another that there seems to be a sort of hardening or staining on the copper heat sinks that builds up over time. I decided to read up on this since LM seems to be the only real way to achieve the best possible temperatures but at the same time I don't want to damage my hardware. I am by no stretch of the imagination a scientist so excuse me if I am wrong here, but the staining allegedly stems from the metal ions in the gallium (one of the metals in LM) migrating to the copper of the HS creating an copper-gallium alloy that is the hardened, dry paste that people describe as the LM drying up and many have a hard time removing again. Some people seem to have noticed a sudden increase in temperature a while after the first application of LM and found that it has dried up as described above, but by applying more LM the temps seem to drop again. This seems to happend when the gap between the HS and the IHS which allows for a tiny amount of air to pass. Can anyone comment on these statements? I am mainly concerned about the cooling properties of the LM over time if it in fact does dry up. Has anyone had a single application of lets say Conduconaut for a longer period of time without any performance decrease?
This is a reference article for some of the statements that I mentioned: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-compatibility-with-copper-heat-sinks.800890/

 

I use still same old application with CoolLaboratory Liquid Ultra on an OC'd 4930Mx(AW17). The application is now three years old next month(April). Work as well as when I applied this early 2014. Everything depends on whether the heatsink has perfect fit on Die/IHS. Poor fit will dry out Liquid metal, in same way as with all other conventional thermal paste.

 

Hit me up on PM and we'll work something out.

 

Thanks for your time mate,
Now, How can i increase the TDT? can you point me out to a noob frindly guide? or can yourself pls illuminate me?

My specs:
15 R3
UHD Screen
6820HK / 16GB
GTX 1070
Killer 1535

,

 

For starters, you can use XTU to tweak the TDP settings. You will need to set Turbo Boost Short Power window from 56W to 60W and try some stress tool like OCCT CPU or Cinebench R15 to check if it crashes with current TDP limit.

 

Oh cool, that's exactly what I was looking for, cool! Once I have disassembled my 15r3 and applied the LM how do you guys make sure to fit the HS properly? I mean you talk about perfect fit between HS and IHS and I've noticed throughout this post that @iunlock can spend a decent amount of time balancing it for the perfect fit, but how do you do this? Do you purely base the fit on what you can see and tighten the screws accordingly or is there some sort of technique? The only thing I can reference to of my own experience is tightning the screws in a X pattern when adjusting a HS in a desktop.

 

I had a hard time getting XTU to stick my undervolt settings after reboot, so I move to Throtlestop which seems to be working fantastic.

Been playing with it looking for something Turboboost related and came across this window but dont know what to move here. Changing the encircled box from 56 to 60 seems to have no effect.

 

Uncheck Clamp option.

 

Has anyone else tried the PCH mod? I was going to repaste today to make sure my heatsink was flat but I'd prefer to wait to checkout that, as I don't even have a thick enough shim

 

Presumably you then set core overclocking level to customisation after that? ...

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Wow that's not so good, 100% a bad repaste I'd say. When you open it back up check the spread of the paste on the die to see if it looks uneven. What did you paste with? Also it looks like the HS isn't balanced properly as cores 0 and 2 are the hottest (as these are both the top half of the CPU). Do you have the 0.1mm tape or 0.5mm pad on the chips (black square ones in a row) above the CPU? You'll want the 0.1mm. If you do then you'll need to bend the HS assembly (be very careful) a little you get it to sit squarely on the CPU. I recommend doing up CPU screws for HS first before GPU too

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Yep I've done it, temps dropped 5 - 15C!
Check this:

https://s28.postimg.org/6zsiymwl9/20170322_203102.jpg

I taped around the die with super 33+ (because I wanted to use a 20x20 shim), used a fujipoly extreme pad on the die and an Arctic 6W/mk 1.5mm pad on top of the shim to make contact with the aluminum case (think it may have been a 1.5 + 0.5 on top actually). Key is to make sure there's contact but don't bend the board. Also using mediocre pad on top ensures not too much heat is passed to the chassis compromising temps elsewhere.

HTH

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

What size shim is that, is it 1.5mm? I think I remember that's the size it should be. Anyone know if they sell that size locally at any places? I may try fixing my paste today/tomorrow

 

I have used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut but I have made the mistake of spreading the paste with the little thing they give in the package.

I have reopen my laptop and here is how it looks after my first repaste. Can you see the pads that you are referring to on the pictures ? I didn't touch and change any pads at all.

http://i.imgur.com/EOfin2G.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/AyA6RSQ.jpg

On my next repaste I will try to bend the arm on top of the CPU... I'll try not to break it !

Thanks for your help @Pete Light

 

Does anyone know where a good place to buy Fujipoly besides Amazon is? The seller on there looks to only have 1 of this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Fujipoly-mod...d=1490837622&sr=8-3&keywords=fujipoly+extreme

Or are there other pads recommended?

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSJR2KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSJQX0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They give more than the strips and have prime shipping

 

From the pictures, it looks pretty obvious (even without the fancy pressure paper) the pressure and contact of the heatsink and cpu is not even. The upper left side of the cpu looks problematic as can be seen on the heatsink.

also from the picture, it looks like you have the 0.1mm milky colored thermal pad, which is the improved one. the only other thing you can do now is to bend the tension arm as suggested by pete and to readjust and reseat the heatsink.

 

Yes mate 1.5

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Looks like that's way too much paste buddy, those pads don't look right to me either. Looks like the 0.5mm pads. What do you think @iunlock ?

When did you get your unit? Was it refurbished?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Yes that's correct. It looks like the CPU is doing what it does best on the AW's in not sitting flush due to the lack of tension. Try bending the arm, but be careful not to break it.

Spreading the paste is preferred, but this time whatever excess you have, pool it toward the center to make a little mountain in the middle. That way when the heat plate makes contact, it'll spread out the excess evenly and make its own way to where it needs to go. It is important to try and screw down the screws in order as much as possible, going in about quarter increments, but making your way around the screws as carefully / quick as you can.

The amount of paste looks like a lot, but you're better off having too much than too little.

 

And are they the new correct 0.1 pads? I thought the new pads/tape was slightly green in colour

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk