The 3M Super 33+ is the one to get as it is thinner and stretchier, while having the same temp rating of 105C as the thicker one.
My pleasure. Glad you found it helpful.
Cheers!
Absolutely. I have added some more pictures and will continue updating the OP. My goal was to get this guide up as soon as possible.
Still under construction.
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You are awesome. Thanks for the detailed pics. Going to repaste mine later this week.
Btw, what is the sticker like surface at the second m.2 slot ?iunlock likes this. -
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If anyone want me to repaste their Alienwares (NY area), hit me up on PM and we'll work something out.
Vassilis008 and joels0827 like this. -
So i plan on doing this when i get mine, but does repasting with liquid metal void the warranty?
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@iunlock how tick is the fan? is still 1cm ? are made by forcecon ?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
Last edited by a moderator: Oct 23, 2016quantumshadow likes this.
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@Neal0790 or you are going to call Dell and tell them you used liquid metal paste ?? how the hek they are going to know you changed the thermal paste ?
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Can someone explain why the voltage is so different? (Monitoring window, lower right)
In the stock paste (higher temp) snapshot, the voltage appears to be 1676.741 millivolts.
In the repasted (lower temp) snapshot, the voltage appears to be 569.5 millivolts.
Changing the paste should not change the voltage, should it? (Unless it creates a short circuit ...)
The lower temperatures seem due to the lower voltage, and thus less energy, not just due to the heat transmission of the paste.
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Why don't the three heat pipes go allllll the way across into the fan on the left? Why do only two go through to it? Just curious.
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iunlock likes this.
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I haven't read other posts yet, so you may have already answered... was the teardown as easy as you thought, or more of a pain in the butt than expected?temp00876, bloodhawk, iunlock and 1 other person like this. -
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gpu side heatsink could also have a 3rd heatpipe soldered on top
also interesting note to take, the heatpipe config is reversed on this model compared to the r2/r3. now the gpu has a shared pipe instead of the cpu.Mr. Fox likes this. -
The tear down was much easier than than the R3, a little less tedious, but more convenient. The mobo still has to be lifted up to remove the two fan cables before removing the heat sink.Last edited: Oct 23, 2016Mr. Fox likes this. -
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wow what a guide, thanks so much!
for the prying tools, do you need the plastic prick mentioned in the guide or will other bar-shaped pry tools work just as well?iunlock likes this. -
I would use something plastic and smooth as to not scratch up the laptop.
Thanks and glad you like it. -
While everyone should get a plastic pick tool for their computer tool kit, in a pinch an old hotel room access card, expired credit card or a similar type of semi-rigid plastic card works well for separating parts with delicate surfaces you don't wish to scratch.
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Click my name and there should be an option to "start a conversation". -
My 15R3 w/ 1070 and HK is on its way to me. Based on what I've seen so far I feel repasting will be the way to go but I have zero experience with any of this stuff. I don't have any tools whatsoever. I'm willing to buy whatever tools work but I'm a little intimidated by the process. Even with the guide I still have a lot of questions. Do you expect the disassembly will be about the same for the R3? Is this liquid metal material a bad idea for newbies? Even with that electrical tape I still don't understand if there's a risk that the liquid will flow past the tape if the laptop is being transported and flipped sideways, in a backpack etc. Am I totally in over my head wanting to replicate this?
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ThatOldGuy Notebook Virtuoso
I actually always used a screen protector application tool I've had for years (came with some sort of invisisield, I can't even remember what product)Mr. Fox likes this. -
if we can get a datasheet from sunon then most likely -
I found this disassembly video on youtube. Its not very good! but i know a lot of people would wanna watch it.
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just so i do this properly as it's my first time ever opening up a laptop...
1) what's the best way to apply gelid extreme to the die? i gather since it's not liquid metal, perhaps the amount/thickness/etc. may be different??
2) is electric tape recommended even if i'm not going to be using liquid metal?
3) will applying gelid extreme to the heat sink box in addition to the die improve thermals even more or should i be more conservative? -
2) NO!!
3) Only Die!! -
Electric tape is not necessary since Gelid is not conductive.
No need to apply to the heat sink. That's only for the liquid metal pastes.
Edit: Yeah. What @Papusan said.
The method (pea or two lines, etc.) is not as important as coverage. The main thing is to have enough to spread out and cover the entire die. Too much wastes money and makes a mess to clean up later. Not enough doesn't work. -
Will you make a video for the 15R3 as well?
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Yeah that's not an option for me yet. But once I'm able to start a conversation I will reach out to you. Thank you. -
MoBo with GTX1080. From the Chinese youtuber 毛伸 who posts those series of reviews of 15R3 and 17R4 far before they are delivered to anyone.iunlock likes this. -
Thanks. Nothing new. Same waste of space, 2 ddr, 1 nvme. Shame.
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Today I was looking at materials to buy and i came across this, can we use this inplace of regular thermal pads, the conductivity ratings are in excess of 400 W/mk
[Alienware 17R4 / 15R3] - Disassembly + Repaste Guide + Results
Discussion in '2015+ Alienware 13 / 15 / 17' started by iunlock, Oct 22, 2016.