[Alienware 17R4 / 15R3] - Disassembly + Repaste Guide + Results

Is there any instruction for thermal pads for the AW15? I would like to upgrade thermal pads when I repaste the 15 but want to ensure I got the right ones and put them in the right places.

 

Check at the beginning of the post there is everything u need


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Yea I saw that, I just wanted to make sure that it applies to all AW 1070 versions because the photo is labeled AW17R4 - 1070.

 

LOL thanks for sharing that's hilarious. they really are monkeys aren't they! Let us know how your temps are.

I note however that you seem to have put a fujipoly pad where the 0.1mm white pad should be. What thickness was this? You wana make sure this doesn't leave you with a temp differential between cores if it's thicker than 0.1mm...

 

Crap! Knew I missed something... I'm down with the flu, and figured if I'm gonna be miserable, I may as well tear my new $2k machine apart!

Running OCCT now, and will post my results soon. Thanks for catching my errant replacement of the pads...

___________________________________________________________________________
Vindicated!!!

Actually, the picture where it states to leave the 0.1mm tape was for the GTX 1070, not the GTX 1080 (sorry if I didn't clarify that I have the 1080)....



I'm thinking that it's my crappy attempt to apply the liquid metal, as I found it very difficult to work with... The bead just kept sliding around the top of the die and wouldn't do anything beyond splitting into smaller beads until something happened and it just broke... Somehow...

How thick does the liquid metal layer need to be? Just a thin coating or a healthy layer of liquid glory floating on top?

HOW DOES ONE GET THE BEAD TO BURST?!?!

(sorry for the caps)

 

Alright it's done !

Repasted (Kryonaut),tension arm bent and repaded tonight. Fujiploy 14 are a real pain in the @ss to apply : they do not stick to the heatsink...

Anyway : a 20°C drop in max temps for CPU (I only hit 70-72°C when benching now). And best of all : 2°C to NO core temp differential !! (had around 10-12°C diff gap between cores 1-3 and 2-4).
Now cruising @ 39-40°C on idle with a 4,0GHz OC.

I'll never thank you enough team LHZ for your posts and pics. It really helped a lot !!

 

Cool how much under load like a 15 mins OCCT run? Are you taking it beyond 4Ghz?

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Here's what I got after running OCCT for nearly 2 hours...



Anyone know the secret to getting the liquid metal to spread? Took me about 15 mins of moving the little bubble around to finally break whatever passes for surface tension on the stuff and get it to spread out... It just kept getting cut in half, went back together into the little bead, like a drop of oil in a Teflon coated frying pan..

 

I have not used it myself. I'm doing a dry run with Kryonaut. If I get even pressure (even CPU core temps), I plan to repaste with the LM.

I have some 11, and 17 Fujipoly to install during the first re paste, and don't want to use LM until I'm sure that goes well.

There are liquid metal installation videos, but no tricks are given, other than the careful cleaning before application. One video looked like the guy kind of pushed some LM into his qtip and kind of painted with it. Perhaps the experts here have additional tips.

 

Hello @iunlock , I just received my Alienware 17 gtx1080 6820hk , i m in the us ,I would like to repaste it with the LM could you do it for me ? At Which cost? Where are u located ? I m in Miami !

Thks!

 

I'm around 75°c max, @ 4.0GHz, with a very short peak at 80°C. I tried 4.2, but it crashed.

 

Thanks, same problem for me running anything over 4GHz, did you lap the heatsink as well? At 3.9 I'm stable in the mid 50s with a peak of 62

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LOL yes that is true.What were you using to spread it? I believe the CLLU brush is easier than the cotton buds that come with Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut.if your using the buds it's exactly that, just patience and break the surface tension

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Hey, how do I get in touch with you to find out about the re paste service you offer?

 

@iunlock

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PM sent.

 

I don't seem to have received any message and I am not able to send PM's either.

 

I've sent another. Are you on a computer or phone?

 

I have received it. Was on my iPad

 

@iunlock me too I would be interested !

 

@iunlock , what material is the brush (CLLU brush) you use?

 

I'm going to repaste my AW17 6820/1070. I hesitate between kryonaut and conductaunot with fujipoly pads (14w/mk) but I don't know how much I need (1g or 5,5g kryonaut) and 1g conductaunot ? Is the brush essential for a new user ?

 

1g is plenty for everything

 

by plenty there is enough for your family in there...

" Apply a pinhead-sized amount" -http:// www.thermal-grizzly.com/images/downloads/TG_Conductonaut_ShortApplicationGuide_EN.pdf

If you look at a pinhead, this is very very small!

 

Thermal grizzly gives only 1 asterisk (*) to Grizzly Conductonaut and Grzzly Kryonaut gives 5 asterisks (*) in Exterme-Overclocking Rating. What does it mean? Is Grizzly Kryonaut Better Than Conductonaut For OC? Should not Conductonaut be used for OC?

http://www.thermal-grizzly.com/en/products

 

That's interesting.

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Because "Extreme-Overclocking" is using sub 0 cooling and Conductonaut is rated for temps >8C. Kryonaut is thus the correct choice for sub 0 cooling.

 

@iunlock Or anyone really.

You mentioned trying out a thinner thermal pad at 16:06 in this video:

In you original post you mention leaving the 1.0mm pads in place there. Is it a good idea to use the 0.5mm pads and bend the arm slightly or continue with the 1.0mm?

I just ordered this unit yesterday: 6820HK, gtx 1070 knowing I would need to do this work.

Trying to research as much as possible into what I should be ready to do when it gets here as far as repasting and if I should hunt down a custom bios for the unit as well.

Thank you very much.

Is there a sticky anywhere with a sort of "unboxing" guide?

Kinda:
1. get rid of this and that
2. repaste using this guide: xxx.xxx.xxx
3. Get this bios: xxx
4. Get this vbios: xxx
5. etc....

 

That video was made before Alienware made the fix for the thermal pads on the chokes.

 

thank you for the reply.

Are there any changes such as this that I should be aware of before beginning this project?

I have disassembled, for cleaning purposes, a couple different Asus ROG notebooks. This will be my first attempt at repasting a notebook though. Desktops are significantly easier.

This will also be my first time using a liquid metal compound.

Just making sure I have everything straight before I screw up an expensive computer.

Thank you again.

I have been reading googling my tushy off for about 2 months now on this computer and a couple others. Just pulled the trigger and focusing my searches.

 

The most up to date instructions are on the first page of this thread. You will notice that the image used here for example:


Is of the latest version of the heatsink, you can see the new .1mm white pad and even the use of thermal paste on the cpu instead of a stamp.

I am in the same boat as you, I am just waiting for them to offer the 7820HK on a non gsync display so I can order mine and then repaste with liquid metal on arrival. Also note the surprising instruction of putting the liquid metal on the die and on the heatsink this was very strange to me but is in the manual.

 

That's exactly what I did, you'll be fine!

 

yep that's exactly what I did, works perfectly

 

I was wondering about that actually. But I will follow suit as I have never used liquid metal.

I went the other way and waited for the 7820 so I could try and order the 6820 at a lower price. I don't have a huge budget so the specs were basically, "what's the cheapest you guys can give me a 17r4, 1070 and 6820 for?"

Got it at 1665 before taxes. After scouring for sometime that seems the best deal I could possibly get a laptop for with those specs and not sacrifice build/case quality.

I did request 1440 monitor but could not get in my price range. I just wanted the 120hz refresh rate honestly. They told me the 1080 in there was a 144hz but I highly doubt that.

A few things I was wondering about:

1. Is the 240 power brick enough for these specs and overclocking after using the liquid metal

2. pci lanes: will an m.2 drive end up using lanes the gpu is trying to use? I assumed the 1070 is using 16 lanes.

3. I want to learn more about overclocking the display. I had never even heard of this until yesterday.

 

I know this is the official recommendation but I'm sure this is for a desktop die. iUnlocks advice was to put plenty on and that pinhead does not look anywhere near enough to me. I used loads more than that (not through choice though but I would've put more on anyway) and I recommend you put it on the heatsink first directly and not the die in case you have an air bubble like I had!

 

I can answer 1. for you. You'll need 90 - 100W to OC that 6820HK and that only leaves you 140W for the GPU and the rest of the system. I think the 1070 has a 120W - 140W max so you wont be able to push it to the max after keeping it ice cool with LM

 

Thanks for linking to your other thread. Helps to see another experience with this.

Hopefully I learn not to bubble

I want all the resources!!!

I must know the things.

Essentially I am planning to take two days off when I see it ready for delivery.

One day on repasting and any other recommended mods and the next day playing.

Have you checked out any other bios/vbios or is stock working well?

 

Due to the liquid nature of the paste I assume you would need some pretty bad contact pressure to get a bubble with that stuff...

But this is interesting that it actually happened to someone. From what I have seen the amount you put on the heatsink is very very small and is more for filling in the bumps and fissures of the heat sink itself so that it is smooth when you make contact with the die.

Also remember a gram is a weight measurement and we are looking at a volume on the die. Without knowing anything of the density or having experience with the product it is very hard to tell how much the amount we see in the photo relates to the 1gram that came in the syringe. I do though recall it being stated somewhere that 1g should be enough for a few applications. Now it should be noted that I believe that was for cpu usage and obviously a GPU die is a lot bigger than that.

 

I don't think it was a bubble in the finished product. It was a bubble in the tube that created a small mess. The tape saved him.

 

Question for iunlock. The tests you are running when you test the temps, are they just maxing the CPU, or are they maxing both the CPU at 100% and the GPU at 100% at the same time?

 

Ah, now that is scary!

 

One question, Grizzly Conductonaut should be replaced every 1 year? Or How much time is recommended?

 

It should last longer than the device will.

 

From what I read somewhere on here it technically can out live the laptop.

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What I wonder though it what occurs <8C. It says the product is for temps >8C so should I be worried putting this on a laptop that is exposed to <8C conditions?

 

Thks. I plan to use it with my Gigabyte Gtx 1080 G1 from my GA. But I do not know if I should replace the original thermal pads. Someone knows?

 

I had steady hands and it still happened to me so be warned! I only had 0.5g I think and this easily Will do two or maybe 3 applications of both gpu and CPU dies and heatsinks!



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Yep

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I'm glad you posted this. I didn't know the 8 degree C limitation of Conductonaut. That clinches it for me, going with Kryonaut. I may use the laptop in the field and it could be below that.

 

Hmmmm.... So how would that effect it getting moved to these temperatures but not necessarily running.

This computer will be used to automate my pa system and lighting system (currently the job of my aw 17r3). Its cold here and I am not always able to bring this directly inside right away when arriving to a show.